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Everything posted by Landlubber Mike
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Italari 1/12 Mephistopheles by kpnuts
Landlubber Mike replied to kpnuts's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I'm really excited to watch this - I have it in the stash. From what I've seen, it is an incredible kit. Good luck! The black version is really sweet - there is a work in progress on Model Cars Magazine forums by Maysula in case you're interested. -
Kevin, just to clarify, is the issue that the decals OC used were flat and not glossy, and therefore one would seal the paint with a flat clear coat before applying the decals? And once the decals are applied, even if flat, can one add a gloss coat to seal the decals and begin weathering? This is the first time I’ve come across that there are flat decals out there and am trying to learn what to look out for
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I've had the Dewalt scroll saw for years, and it's served me well. A friend gave me a band saw when he upgraded, and after a year or using it, would say that you probably will get more functionality from a band saw than a scroll saw. I'm not an expert by any means, but for me thus far, I've gotten a lot of band saw use that has mostly entailed cutting larger pieces of wood and other materials for other hobbies like pen turning. With a band saw, along with added power to cut thicker pieces of wood and other materials, you can add a fence to make straight cuts, add a miter gauge for angled cuts, and change the blades to a thinner blade if you are cutting curves. A scroll saw is much better for cutting curves and interior cutouts, albeit on thinner material. So I would say think about what applications you would need the saw for and choose accordingly. Of course, if you have the room and budget, get both One tip - look on places like Craigslist for lightly used scroll saws. Lots of people post scroll saws and other tools that they used once for a weekend or kid's project that are now collecting dust. I bought a very lightly used Dewalt off Craigslist for a fraction of the retail price (and it was an older model which doesn't have some of the quality control issues that people are finding with newer units).
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The fenders on my Spider were cracked and I managed to get replacements from Paul. My RR body had a crack and a bit of a warp, so replaced that from Paul as well to be safe. He’s a fantastic resource! I’ll have to try those Vallejo Metal paints. I’ve been using the regular Vallejo model color and model air and really like them. The metal line seems to be even nicer. I figure I’ll give them a try when I have a larger section to paint in a metallic color. It took a little trial and error, but my airbrushing has improved. Using Mr. Color lacquer primers and Tamiya lacquer paints has been a bit of an adventure on my Iwata, but those paints lay down very nicely.
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Grant, looks great! I just picked up this kit and the Paul Koos DVD a month ago off eBay - this is one of the nicest of the Pocher kits, though I heard the fit issues are greater than the 8C-2300. I also have the Fiat and the Rolls Royce Torpedo Cabriolet. I'm probably a few years from starting as I'm learning to airbrush and have a stash of kits to get my skill level up to do this justice. By then, I'll have a good tutorial on how to build this kit judging by your excellent progress thus far
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I used household bleach to remove the chrome off a couple of kits I’m working on. Interestingly, Clorox didn’t work at all (it might not have been actual bleach, but a fancy bleach alternative that my wife used for laundry). I then found a bottle of no-name brand bleach hidden in a cabinet and that worked perfectly, stripping the chrome off the sprues in less than 30 minutes. These days, stores are sold out of bleach. I have seen people say they have good results spraying the sprues with oven cleaner, then sticking in a ziploc bag.
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That looks fantastic! Just out of curiosity, do you need to put a clear coat over it, or does the wax-based application help protect it? I'm working on a car model now, and I noticed that they recommend using flat colors for some engine parts and gloss colors for other parts. If i put a gloss coat on to weather, it seems like everything would become gloss. Seems like this AK stuff would allow one to keep some parts flat and some parts more glossy.
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Craig, sorry to clutter your log, but here is another discussion on wire wheels - this time used in the context of the old Hubley metal kits (I have a few kits in the stash and was browsing the web in them this morning). Having wire wheels true to scale seems well worth the effort to make a beautiful car model as the plastic wheels are way out of scale: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/86613-118-duesenberg-wire-wheels/
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Awesome, I'm in for this one. I have the blue Jo-Han cadillac in the stash, been waiting to find the green one for a decent price. You probably already saw it, but Plasmo has a fantastic youtube tutorial on replacing the wire wheels with monofilament. Seems easier than drilling out and cutting steel wire.
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Thanks Bob. I’m probably going to do just as you suggest. Seems like removing the chain might be fairly risky for little reward. I’ve put this on hold to get some experience with plastic models, PE, airbrushing, etc. I decided to go with a 1/700 destroyer which I’m close to completing (no build log but might post one on completion if it comes out ok). Will be nice to move to a larger scale - the PE at 1/700 is insanely small.
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