Landlubber Mike

Moving right along - we have some more progress to the model. Note the corrugated Chrome plated dual exhaust pipes.  Man were they ever a bugger to get installed.  Hood, trunk and side trim are just dry fitted for now. 



Stay tuned !

The top deck is all planked and covered with the sub-planking. Modifications of the top hatch for the rudder access are finished. Now is will be easier to install the rudder arm and have the ability to adjust it when necessary.

Got the bottom of the hull planked and now starting on the sides.

I got a few more planks done on the side. This is an odd way to plank, I usually start at the top and work my way to the keel, but the instructions suggest starting at the bottom and work my way up.

I posted this same question about six months ago and Kurt and others gave me a lot of good things to think about.  For what it's worth, for the airbrush I went with an Iwata Eclipse and an Iwata compressor.  I also bought a spray both off of Amazon.
 
I've really enjoyed using Vallejo's air paints.  I've used them straight from the bottle but will start adding a bit of flow improver because I tend to get dry tips (doesn't help airbrushing in the winter when the air is drier).  I've used Tamiya acrylics and they are really nice too.  Tamiya lacquers stink to high hell though, so venting is a good idea.  
 
For me, even when spraying acrylics I turn the vent on the booth so that the particles are pulled away from me.  You can see a slight fog when airbrushing, so I feel it's better to pull them away from my lungs (and surrounding area) and into the filter pad.

I got this one - seems to work very nicely.  I have some larger kits that won't fit in there, but it works great for models on the smaller side.
 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MGGYH2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

I'm probably not the person to ask given that I've only used the airbrush I have now and can't really compare it to anything else aside from Tamiya acrylics.  They seem pretty thin to me though, certainly thinner than Tamiya if that helps.  They are designed to be used directly out of the bottle for airbrushing.

I posted this same question about six months ago and Kurt and others gave me a lot of good things to think about.  For what it's worth, for the airbrush I went with an Iwata Eclipse and an Iwata compressor.  I also bought a spray both off of Amazon.
 
I've really enjoyed using Vallejo's air paints.  I've used them straight from the bottle but will start adding a bit of flow improver because I tend to get dry tips (doesn't help airbrushing in the winter when the air is drier).  I've used Tamiya acrylics and they are really nice too.  Tamiya lacquers stink to high hell though, so venting is a good idea.  
 
For me, even when spraying acrylics I turn the vent on the booth so that the particles are pulled away from me.  You can see a slight fog when airbrushing, so I feel it's better to pull them away from my lungs (and surrounding area) and into the filter pad.

Hope everyone is enjoying 2020.  With the holidays, work, and a diversion into plastic models, I haven't been devoting as much time recently to the LAR.  I did manage to line out the gunports on the gun deck level.  
 
All I can say is this took forever!  The gunport patterns on other European kits like Caldercraft and Amati are a godsend.  Given that there are 14 gunports per side, I thought it was important that there be smooth line to the ports, that they be square, and that they be even with each other.  Hopefully the pictures below show clearly my particular method.  Essentially, I spent many hours marking out the 10mmx10mm gunports by transferring measurements from the plans, drilled a 2mm hole in the center, and ran a brass rod through to make sure that the gunports on either side were square to each other and level with one another.  Then after cutting out the 10mmx10mm gunports, I ran a square 10mmx10mm through to make sure that everything was still lined up.
 
Since I'm lining the ports, i went ahead with adding 2mmx2mm sills, opening the gunports to 14mmx14mm.  This was fairly easy using a micromotor with a small cut off wheel.  The cut off wheel made for quick, straight work.  The sills ultimately will be about 1mm, so I have an extra 1mm to overlap them with the second outer hull planking.
 
I'm using padouk that I picked up from Woodcraft.  It's an interesting wood - nice color (though will dull to an orange-brown over time, interesting smell when worked, and machines fairly easily.  It does have pits in it like mahogany, but these fill up pretty nicely when sanded.  Hopefully when I apply a finish there will be no visible pits.  You have to be careful with the dust as it can be an irritant, so I worked using a respirator and a shop vac going at all times.  It also can stain very light wood, so you have to be a little careful with that as well.
 
To get ready for the inner bulwark planking, I decided to remove most of the gunport-level bulkhead frames.  That was not at all easy but took lots of micromotor work.  I was a bit nervous doing so, but I had rubbed PVA all over the first planking which kept the planking very stable.
 
Next up will either be the inner bulwark planking or the exterior planking.  Given that the interior bulwark planking will largely be invisible, I might start with it, so that when I do the outer hull planking, clamping and pinning issues might be easier to deal with.





 

 

 

 

Hope everyone is enjoying 2020.  With the holidays, work, and a diversion into plastic models, I haven't been devoting as much time recently to the LAR.  I did manage to line out the gunports on the gun deck level.  
 
All I can say is this took forever!  The gunport patterns on other European kits like Caldercraft and Amati are a godsend.  Given that there are 14 gunports per side, I thought it was important that there be smooth line to the ports, that they be square, and that they be even with each other.  Hopefully the pictures below show clearly my particular method.  Essentially, I spent many hours marking out the 10mmx10mm gunports by transferring measurements from the plans, drilled a 2mm hole in the center, and ran a brass rod through to make sure that the gunports on either side were square to each other and level with one another.  Then after cutting out the 10mmx10mm gunports, I ran a square 10mmx10mm through to make sure that everything was still lined up.
 
Since I'm lining the ports, i went ahead with adding 2mmx2mm sills, opening the gunports to 14mmx14mm.  This was fairly easy using a micromotor with a small cut off wheel.  The cut off wheel made for quick, straight work.  The sills ultimately will be about 1mm, so I have an extra 1mm to overlap them with the second outer hull planking.
 
I'm using padouk that I picked up from Woodcraft.  It's an interesting wood - nice color (though will dull to an orange-brown over time, interesting smell when worked, and machines fairly easily.  It does have pits in it like mahogany, but these fill up pretty nicely when sanded.  Hopefully when I apply a finish there will be no visible pits.  You have to be careful with the dust as it can be an irritant, so I worked using a respirator and a shop vac going at all times.  It also can stain very light wood, so you have to be a little careful with that as well.
 
To get ready for the inner bulwark planking, I decided to remove most of the gunport-level bulkhead frames.  That was not at all easy but took lots of micromotor work.  I was a bit nervous doing so, but I had rubbed PVA all over the first planking which kept the planking very stable.
 
Next up will either be the inner bulwark planking or the exterior planking.  Given that the interior bulwark planking will largely be invisible, I might start with it, so that when I do the outer hull planking, clamping and pinning issues might be easier to deal with.





 

 

 

 

Hey Jason, thanks for looking in!
 
I don’t know if they are completely square but they are probably pretty close.  The bottoms and tops follow the line of the deck, but for the most part there was only a 0.5-1mm change in height from one corner to another.  When i built the ports, I just went ahead and made them square.  I figured I could sand the inside of the vertical parts of the ports if necessary.  With that little of a rise though, I don’t think whether the sides are perfectly vertical or not will be very noticeable.
 
i think some kits set the bulkheads apart in such a way that the ports are either equidistant between bulkheads or abut the bulkheads.  No luck here where the bulkheads are spaced at varying distances. 
 
Just very glad to be past this stage.  So many hours spent transferring plan measurements to the hull, double checking and triple checking, etc.  

Hey Jason, thanks for looking in!
 
I don’t know if they are completely square but they are probably pretty close.  The bottoms and tops follow the line of the deck, but for the most part there was only a 0.5-1mm change in height from one corner to another.  When i built the ports, I just went ahead and made them square.  I figured I could sand the inside of the vertical parts of the ports if necessary.  With that little of a rise though, I don’t think whether the sides are perfectly vertical or not will be very noticeable.
 
i think some kits set the bulkheads apart in such a way that the ports are either equidistant between bulkheads or abut the bulkheads.  No luck here where the bulkheads are spaced at varying distances. 
 
Just very glad to be past this stage.  So many hours spent transferring plan measurements to the hull, double checking and triple checking, etc.  

Hope everyone is enjoying 2020.  With the holidays, work, and a diversion into plastic models, I haven't been devoting as much time recently to the LAR.  I did manage to line out the gunports on the gun deck level.  
 
All I can say is this took forever!  The gunport patterns on other European kits like Caldercraft and Amati are a godsend.  Given that there are 14 gunports per side, I thought it was important that there be smooth line to the ports, that they be square, and that they be even with each other.  Hopefully the pictures below show clearly my particular method.  Essentially, I spent many hours marking out the 10mmx10mm gunports by transferring measurements from the plans, drilled a 2mm hole in the center, and ran a brass rod through to make sure that the gunports on either side were square to each other and level with one another.  Then after cutting out the 10mmx10mm gunports, I ran a square 10mmx10mm through to make sure that everything was still lined up.
 
Since I'm lining the ports, i went ahead with adding 2mmx2mm sills, opening the gunports to 14mmx14mm.  This was fairly easy using a micromotor with a small cut off wheel.  The cut off wheel made for quick, straight work.  The sills ultimately will be about 1mm, so I have an extra 1mm to overlap them with the second outer hull planking.
 
I'm using padouk that I picked up from Woodcraft.  It's an interesting wood - nice color (though will dull to an orange-brown over time, interesting smell when worked, and machines fairly easily.  It does have pits in it like mahogany, but these fill up pretty nicely when sanded.  Hopefully when I apply a finish there will be no visible pits.  You have to be careful with the dust as it can be an irritant, so I worked using a respirator and a shop vac going at all times.  It also can stain very light wood, so you have to be a little careful with that as well.
 
To get ready for the inner bulwark planking, I decided to remove most of the gunport-level bulkhead frames.  That was not at all easy but took lots of micromotor work.  I was a bit nervous doing so, but I had rubbed PVA all over the first planking which kept the planking very stable.
 
Next up will either be the inner bulwark planking or the exterior planking.  Given that the interior bulwark planking will largely be invisible, I might start with it, so that when I do the outer hull planking, clamping and pinning issues might be easier to deal with.





 

 

 

 

I got this one - seems to work very nicely.  I have some larger kits that won't fit in there, but it works great for models on the smaller side.
 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MGGYH2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

I'm probably not the person to ask given that I've only used the airbrush I have now and can't really compare it to anything else aside from Tamiya acrylics.  They seem pretty thin to me though, certainly thinner than Tamiya if that helps.  They are designed to be used directly out of the bottle for airbrushing.

I posted this same question about six months ago and Kurt and others gave me a lot of good things to think about.  For what it's worth, for the airbrush I went with an Iwata Eclipse and an Iwata compressor.  I also bought a spray both off of Amazon.
 
I've really enjoyed using Vallejo's air paints.  I've used them straight from the bottle but will start adding a bit of flow improver because I tend to get dry tips (doesn't help airbrushing in the winter when the air is drier).  I've used Tamiya acrylics and they are really nice too.  Tamiya lacquers stink to high hell though, so venting is a good idea.  
 
For me, even when spraying acrylics I turn the vent on the booth so that the particles are pulled away from me.  You can see a slight fog when airbrushing, so I feel it's better to pull them away from my lungs (and surrounding area) and into the filter pad.

I posted this same question about six months ago and Kurt and others gave me a lot of good things to think about.  For what it's worth, for the airbrush I went with an Iwata Eclipse and an Iwata compressor.  I also bought a spray both off of Amazon.
 
I've really enjoyed using Vallejo's air paints.  I've used them straight from the bottle but will start adding a bit of flow improver because I tend to get dry tips (doesn't help airbrushing in the winter when the air is drier).  I've used Tamiya acrylics and they are really nice too.  Tamiya lacquers stink to high hell though, so venting is a good idea.  
 
For me, even when spraying acrylics I turn the vent on the booth so that the particles are pulled away from me.  You can see a slight fog when airbrushing, so I feel it's better to pull them away from my lungs (and surrounding area) and into the filter pad.

I posted this same question about six months ago and Kurt and others gave me a lot of good things to think about.  For what it's worth, for the airbrush I went with an Iwata Eclipse and an Iwata compressor.  I also bought a spray both off of Amazon.
 
I've really enjoyed using Vallejo's air paints.  I've used them straight from the bottle but will start adding a bit of flow improver because I tend to get dry tips (doesn't help airbrushing in the winter when the air is drier).  I've used Tamiya acrylics and they are really nice too.  Tamiya lacquers stink to high hell though, so venting is a good idea.  
 
For me, even when spraying acrylics I turn the vent on the booth so that the particles are pulled away from me.  You can see a slight fog when airbrushing, so I feel it's better to pull them away from my lungs (and surrounding area) and into the filter pad.

Remember, particulates aren't generally the worst offender. You need to look at fumes.
 
Not all acrylic paints are created equal. The carrier substrate can be a factor on how you should tackle exhaust materials. Some acrylics have a water base, but some have a lacquer base. In any respect, you don't want to breathe any of this crap in. At the very least, use a face mask with an active carbon filter cartridge.
 
You get one set of lungs. Don't risk them.

I only use a spray booth because Badger gave me one to test.  Before that I did all my spraying on top of a hospital table (for use in bed - adjustable up and down) with a folded blueprint paper protecting the table surface.  If the object is too big for the booth I go back to the paper protecting the table's top.  The over spray with Badger Acrylics is dry by the time it settles on the paper.  I use acrylics 95+% of the time due to the fumes of solvent paints.  When I do use a solvent paint I move the spray table and direct the fan exhaust tube to an open screened window in the shop - otherwise I spray in an open area where I can walk around the table.
 
 

I agree with Kurt - I use Vallejo acrylics and they are great. The pigment in them is very fine and there's loads of it so the coverage is very good.  Just add a few drops of flow improver which is also sold by them and you won't get a dry tip on your airbrush either 

Use acrylics and there is no need to exhaust to the outside.  In addition to the air filter materials at the back of the booth I add a nylon sock over the exhaust tube and it catches any particals that make it past the filters.  No odors to worry about either.
Kurt
 

大家好。
我从安克雷（Ancre）购买了这本书，并且已经从事了四个月的研究。尽管图中存在一些误差，但我仍然喜欢作者船上的每个细节，并打算在一年内完成！
 
Translation by moderator:  Hello everyone. I bought this book from Ancre and have been doing research for four months. Despite some errors in the picture, I still like every detail on the author's ship and intend to complete it within a year!
 


 

WOW.  That was some GPS malfunction - we took quite a detour thru the forests 
 
Getting back on track.
 
I primed the black plastic body parts with Tamiya Fine grey primer. Then repainted them in a Dark Chocolate.  For the side panels (cast in yellow) I over painted them with a Sand color and for the seats and other interior upholstery I painted them Fawn color.  Then started to assemble the pieces.  Interestingly the transmission, engine oil pan are chrome plated.  I would expect the engine head cover to be chrome but this is a new one for me.
 
Note to Lou: The floor wax has not been applied to the Chocolate Brown fenders yet.  That should deepen the color and provide a nice gloss look.

Hi all - I think my experiment with the copper foil tape is over.  This stuff is awful to work with!  By the time I get the backing peeled off it`s all curled up & nearly impossible to flatten it back out without wrinkles.  I also couldn`t get a consistent pattern of nails on it,plus I had a hard time laying it in a straight line.  By the time I pulled it off several times & repositioned it the glue on the back didn`t want to stick very good.  It is also way too shiny & a lot of the edges had some sort of dark stain on them which I couldn`t get off.  On top of that,I totally ran out of cuss words trying to work with this stuff!   I am therefore going to use the plates I have from Jotika.  The "nails" may be a bit out of scale,but they still look decent plus they are easy to work with.  I have 3000 of them,which should be plenty.  The picture shows some of the copper tape I tried along with one of the Jotika plates.
 

 
Mark