MEDDO

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

Wonderful!

Welcome to MSW!!!  As @Louie da fly mentioned above please start a build log as it really is a great way to get to know everyone and show your work and ask questions.
 
I would also like to invite you to check out our Ohio modeling club.  Shipwrights of Ohio (formally known as Shipwrights of Central Ohio) has its home base just north of Columbus.  We meet the 3rd sat morning usually at the Westerville public library but as that is no longer an option in COVID-times we are holding zoom meetings instead.  We have members from all over Ohio who participate.  If interested you can pm me or @Feathermerchant our president.  

Thank you to all the 'Likes'
 
The port sills
I added the gunport sills.In order to be sure that the positioning is the same on both port and starboard, I replaced a temporary batten on the opposite side so that I could position the port sills well level. The port sills are cut from a 1/4" x 1/4" alaskan yellow cedar.

 
The port uprights have been cut to different thicknesses from a 1/4" sheet of yellow alaskan cedar using my Byrnes table saw, , measurements were carefully taken from the plan.

 

 
The sanding was first done roughly with my Proxxon OZI/E delta sander and then finished by hand with different grains of sandpaper.

 
Hell and damnation! I discover with amazement that on the starboard side the positioning of the upright port of the first gunport at the bow is slightly too inside and that once the sanding is finished, the bottom of the piece is too inside a few tenths of a millimeter...
There are three possibilities: the first is to remove the part and replace it with a new one that will be positioned correctly. But I'm too afraid to break the bulkhead knowing that Titebond glue is a super glue! Second option: vertically cut the piece and replace only the front part. But I'm afraid to mark the piece horizontally and finally have to start the gunport sill all over again.
Finally, I opt for a repair of the missing part. I still have to find the right product to use... Then I remember one of the properties of the putty which is not to adhere to the plastic. So I make a 'formwork' using a piece of plastic packaging (transparent plastic, the one that wraps for example chocolate boxes or other foodstuffs) glued with double-sided tape on one side of a wooden piece. This piece is then fixed with a clamp on the side to be filled. My 'formwork' will allow me to obtain a completely smooth and level inner face. Once the putty hardens, the scrap wood ('formwork') can be removed without causing any damage because the plastic will have prevented the putty from sticking to the 'formwork' and will have made a completely smooth and level surface.
Naturally, this option could only be chosen because the repaired area will eventually be painted red and therefore the choice of a different material than wood is not important.

 

 
Finally, once the work is finished on the different port sills, I realize that the two forward chase ports are not at the same level of detail as the others. At first, I thought that my cut was good but comparing the result with the other ports I decide to add port uprights. So I enlarge the 2 gunports by making two vertical cutouts of 1/16th and add the vertical pieces using the reference chase. My two forward chase ports are now identical to all other gunport sills.

 
One last sanding with a very fine grit and I will be able to move to the stern.

 

 
You may have noticed that I have started working on the two rooms. I'll talk about it again once the work is more advanced.
 
 
 
 

Wonderful!

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

Wonderful!

Wonderful!

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

I used Elmer's Extra Strength Glue Stick for the friezes on my Medway Longboat.  Seems to work just fine.

For the frieze on my pinnace I simply used a child’s glue stick.  Worked great

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

For the frieze on my pinnace I simply used a child’s glue stick.  Worked great

After seeing C Coyle's build log for his 12 footer, I am inspired to post some pictures of my 16 ft Peterborough cedar strip; didn't know we were "allowed" to post non-model builds. I made it from the book "Canoecraft" by Ted Moores, which contains lines for several different canoe designs. I picked the Peterborough as a good type for casual paddling at the cottage, since we already had a 16 ft kevlar Prospector for trips in the back country and his 17 ft "Redbird" design is too long to hang on our garage ceiling without interfering with the opening of the door!
 
Shout out here for the Canadian Canoe Museum which is located in Peterborough. Haven't been there in a while but they have a great collection.
 
This canoe was made in the days before digital cameras, but I just this minute took some photos of the old photo album and they seem to have turned out ok. I remember the first day I had my tablesaw out in the driveway, busily ripping six gorgeous 17 ft knot-free western red cedar 1 x 6 planks into 3/4" x 1/4" strips and in doing so creating  a monstrous pile of sawdust under the saw as my blade kerf was 1/8" so one third of each plank became sawdust. My neighbour, after watching for a while, came over to ask just what it was I thought I was doing and was amazed to hear I proposed to make a canoe. I then used my router table to cut beads and coves into the strips' edges. When assembling, the strips are tacked to the forms cove side up, making it simple to run glue along inside the cove before pressing in the bead edge of the next strip above.
 
I thought it would be a great woodworking challenge but making the hull was basically tedium. If you enjoy gluing endless strips, or sanding cedar with its attendant dust, or better yet sanding epoxy resin with even more horrible dust, canoe building is for you! I did enjoy adding the ash trim and making the seats once the hull was completed.
 
The Peterborough is a good canoe for light paddling. Doesn't have the volume or the high stems for a long canoe trip, and the first time I sat it on my neck with the deep-carved yoke a friend donated the top of my head was pressed against its bottom! Very uncomfortable and not to be portaged...later changed the yoke to a shallower design but never carry it far. It weighs in the 68lb range I would guess, much heavier than our kevlar canoe which is another reason not to trip with it.
 
Anyway here are a few random shots of various stages. My talented wife painted the West Coast Native loons each side of the bow, taken from an art book we had. God we were young then 🙂
 

 
Dust everywhere! Adding the gunwales with fiberglass on exterior sanded, but it looks dull until you wet or varnish it.....

 
Making the seats which were later laced with leather "bootlace".

 
The Admiral working on the art, with the hull cleaned but not yet varnished.

 

 
Completion shot beside the old townhouse.

 
First launch; Meech Lake QC.

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

Already made a bunch of those....as of today I am shooting for next Monday the 22nd to reopen.
 
I have a crap ton of blocks to make before then.  I am currently making a dozen capstan kits in Cherry.  I already have a dozen capstan kits in cedar in stock.
 
Chuck

Hoping to get one in Cherry before they’re gone. When will they be available to order?

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

Spent today being a good boy and cleaning the workbench, putting everything away. As the captain would say, "Clear the decks for action!"

I used the Chuck method on my Queen Anne Barge and the flags came out surprisingly well.

As you guys are aware....I am discontinuing my rope availability....
 
BUT
 
I am going to make my remaining inventory available to folks who are currently.....currently....rigging their models with it and need some more to finish it up.  
 
I will be giving those who are in this position a link to a hidden area of the Syren Store which will have those packages available for purchase.  But because I ONLY want to offer the remaining stock to those currently rigging their models, I am asking those in that predicament to send me a PM.  I will give you that link once I open on Feb 22nd.   
 
Otherwise everyone and their brother will buy it all in about 20 minutes regardless of their current projects and needs.   
 
If by chance you are rigging your model RIGHT now and when I open I dont have those sizes in stock, I will make more for you guys.  But only for those in this situation.
 
So please do send me a PM......I will respond with the link once I open on that Monday.
 
Thanks....and I hope this will help those currently rigging their models. But nobody should be ordering 20 packages of each size here...so any folks that just go nutty like that will just have the orders cancelled.  So when you PM me.....let me know what you need so I can make sure its in stock when I reopen.  Also give me your actual name so I can make sure nobody else gets hold of the link and wipes out my inventory before you guys can buy it.
 
Thanks
 
Chuck
 
 

Technique from another Chuck
 
 

There is a model expo version it’s just that no one on this site has built one before that I can find.