MEDDO

I've been keeping my powder dry, but now that It's been said before, I'll pile on. Start simple. Those who provide you with such advice usually have decades of highly involved interest in ship modeling and all have the experience to verify that modeling is a craft, and indeed an art, in which one's skill and ability always increases in the doing of it. This forum is probably the premier ship-modeling forum in the world. There are some amazing artists and craftsmen posting build logs here and the concentration of master modelers in this forum may mislead the beginner into thinking such work is the norm. Their work certainly isn't commonplace and it definitely isn't easy. 
 
Others certainly have more experience with kits than I do, but I am familiar with what has hit the market in close to the last fifty years and I feel confident in saying that I know of no kit model of any fully-rigged Seventeenth Century vessel of the type you are contemplating that I would consider suitable for any but the most highly-experienced kit-builder to undertake. I know there are those who have done so and succeeded to one degree or another, but they are rare exceptions indeed. A beginning modeler is well-advised to select a kit suitable for beginners. These less complex kits are capable of producing every bit as elegant a model when done well as are the "monster" kits. I wouldn't advise a beginner to attempt to build any planked kit other than the high quality ones of recent vintage which provide laser-cut planks. A beginner has enough of a learning curve to deal with besides doing their own lining off and spiling the shapes of the planks and, it should also be mentioned that the shape of a hull in large measure determines the difficulty involved in planking it. A transom-sterned longboat is much easier to plank than an apple-bowed and counter-sterned warship. The beginner is also well-advised to steer clear of square-rigged vessels until they have two or three fore-and-aft-rigged kits under their belt. The increase in the complexity of square rig is exponential. The way to success is first "Do the common thing uncommonly well."
 
Read up as much as possible on any specific kit you are considering. This forum has extensive kit review data available. Be aware that many kits are wholly incapable of producing model in the color glossy picture on its box's cover. That model was built by a highly experienced modeler who almost certainly did not limit themselves to the parts and materials contained in the kit and honest kit manufacturers will disclose that in the fine print somewhere. Most experienced kit modelers who have not "gone over to the dark side" and abandoned kits entirely routinely at least replace all the kit-supplied planking wood and rigging blocks and line because they are simply not up to their standards. (The after-market for such materials and fittings is testimony to the shortcomings of many kits!)
 
A last bit of advice to a beginning kit builder is to select a kit that has been well-covered in the build logs section of this forum. They will provide a very valuable source of instruction as a new builder builds the same kit. Others' mistakes can be almost as instructional as our own! You don't have to re-invent the wheel.
 
While I doubt there's any reliable data available on the subject, I believe most experienced modelers would agree that the percentage of kit models completed is but a small fraction of those purchased, which is pretty remarkable considering the price of many of the more complex kits. There's no point in encouraging the undertaking of a project which is beyond the abilities of the builder. The whole point of the exercise is to enjoy doing it.
 
If you want to get an idea of what a top of the line kit suitable for a "determined beginner's," first and second builds, I'd recommend you check these two out. Their entire "how to build it" monographs are accessible from their websites. The longboat also has a "group build" project posted on this forum and linked from the webpage.
 
https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/medway-longboat-1742.php
 
https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/revenue-cutter-cheerful-1806.php#
 
 
 
 

With Sea Watch books no longer selling plans for the Swan class we have decided to provide them as a free download from our website
http://admiraltymodels.homestead.com/Plans.html. Feel free to take use this set of plans if building a Swan class ship model in the future. Be aware, however, that the sheet with the sheer, half breadth and body plans need to be printed commercially due to their size. I have had no end of problems getting these plans printed to spec in the past even though there are scales printed on it. Therefore, we are now providing them as a free download with the caveat to check them very carefully after printing. The best advice I can give is to make sure the distance between perpendiculars is 96' 7" (scale) or 24.15" full size.
 
For those who have purchased Mylar plans in the past from us there should be no problems as they were checked and dimensionally stable.  But David and I feel that we can no longer charge for plans for which we have no control over the final product. With so many of our Swan  books having been sold over the years we didn't want to leave you without any options for producing plans so this is the best we could come up with. Thank you for all your support over the twenty years we have tried to provide the best product possible.
 
We are hopeful that we may be able to conduct a workshop late next year but, like everything else in this strange time, we shall have to wait and see.
 
Stay healthy and best wishes from David and I for a better 2021!

Quite a bit of progress over the last 2 weeks, aided by retirement from 18 Dec!
 
First up, while waiting for paint to dry on the cockpit seats, was the windlass. I ended up having several goes at this. I wasn’t happy with the shape of the ends after my first attempt. On my second attempt, I wasn’t happy with the shape of the square holes (I’d managed to elongate them). On my third attempt, I decided to machine the tenons on the ends. When I placed this inside the boat, it seemed to me that there was too much of a gap between the square section of the windlass and the riser bracket. I compared the windlass template to the plan drawing and noticed that the position of the square holes differed markedly – by about 10mm between centres. In other words, the whole of the square sections on the plan drawings were 5mm further towards the riser bracket than those on the template. I checked in with Chuck on this and his advice was to stick with the template dimensions. Just for the heck of it, I decided to have one more go, this time moving the square sections further out (by about half the actual difference in the drawings). I also decided to do as much of the shaping as possible using a combination of mill and lathe. Since I was going to the trouble of setting up the machines, I took the precaution of preparing two blanks (these were made from some spare 1/2” square boxwood that I had in my stash). I first thinned these down to the 3/8” square using the Byrnes thickness sander. It turned out to be just as well that I prepared two blanks. I was just completing the final machining process on the first blank (turning the final diameter for the tenon) when I took too big a cut and broke the part. Fortunately, I had completed all of the machining processes on both blanks as I went, so it was no big deal to simply complete that last process on the second blank, taking lighter cuts.
 
The picture below shows the final result. Going from left to right, my first attempt through to the final version, along with the two windlass bars also finally shaped. The fourth (and final) version show the effect of moving the square sections further outboard. I decided I preferred this position. The square holes were achieved by first drilling with a 3/32” drill bit, and then cleaning up with a 3/32” micro chisel (one of my lovely Russian set made by Mikhail).
 

 
 
Next up was the mast ironwork. No issues here – just followed Chuck’s excellent instructions and used JAX Pewter Black for blackening. I did find the belaying pins a bit of a challenge, but again following Chuck’s advice I managed to achieve four reasonably similar results.
 

 
The Thole pins were next. Here I departed from Chuck’s suggestion of turning these in the Dremel/rotary tool. Instead, I used my Byrnes draw plate to bring the 3/64” square stock down to a diameter of about 1mm. Following Ryland’s excellent idea from his build log, I made a small jig to position the thole pins a consistent distance from each other within each pair, and also from the edge of the cap rail. The picture below also shows the completed cockpit seats, as well as the three sets of knees on the relevant thwarts.
 

 
The Fixed Block for the Stem was made up according to the instructions and fitted to the starboard side of the Stem. 
 

 
And the Roller for the bow was made up and fitted on the port side.
 

 
The rudder was next. I first tapered the rudder from forward to aft, per the instructions, and also rounded over the forward edge. The rudder hinges presented no particular problem and were installed per the instructions. Of note here is Chuck’s advice to thin these down once fitted, before adding the wire bolts. Once these were completed, the hinges were painted black, the red section painted at the head of the rudder, and the friezes applied. The tiller was made up from a section of the supplied 3/32” square stock, chucked in the Proxxon rotary handset and shaped with sandpaper and files. A small round tenon was made on the rear of the tiller and a hole drilled in the rudder to accept the tenon.
 

 
 
I also decided to take Ryland’s advice and fit the stands to the hull at this stage (actually prior to fitting the thole pins). I’ve also made up the grapnel, although there are no pictures of this yet. Here are a few overview shots showing the completed hull. The rudder has been installed in the photo but has since been removed for safe keeping to avoid damage during the next phase of building.
 

 

 
And finally, one with completed hull posed on the display stand.
 

 
On to the masting and rigging next but will probably have a slight pause while I attend to a 1:1 scale project for a friend….

https://cafmodel.com/products/hms-granado

I have finally finished installing the rivets on the port side.  As these would have been hand forged, I used square copper wire fit into a size 77 hole.  After all the wires were inserted, the hull looked like a porcupine on a bad hair day.  In the photos, I have started to flatten the heads using a flat file and rotary sanding disc on the Dremel.  Once all the heads were flattened, I finished up with 400 grit sandpaper.
 



Once the sanding and filing was completed, I put a coat of Watco's on the finished side.  After both sides are completed I will add a second coat and then paint the wale.  Over time, as the pear darkens, there will be more of a contrast between the castello above the wale and the hull below.
 

It looks great.  When I was building the Pygmy kayak I usually made the thickened epoxy about the consistency of peanut butter.  The problem is the bigger the globs the more you have to sand/carve the extra off.  With a clinker hull that would be harder to do.  I ended up using one of these things and it worked out pretty well.
 

I am going to eventually case this and I am not sure how I will present it but at this point I am going to call this complete.  Basically this was an attempt to build straight out of the box with no extras and using minimal tools. Tools used were just an 11 blade, a 1/4 inch chisel, forceps, mini file set, digital calipers, sand paper, cheep clamps some glue and paint (I think that's all).   I think it came out ok.  This was also my first planking job using Chucks edge bending techniques and proper spieling without drop planks or stealers (other than when I ham fisted and broke off a plank end at the stern and put in a 4mm wedge to replace the split plank end).  There was a lot of learning going on here and I think it was a fun build overall.
 
Will probably also put these in the gallery at some time.
 






 
 
Next up planning for to move onto the Queen Anne style Royal Barge from Syren.
 
Thanks all for following along with me and for all the likes and comments.
 
 
 

Made the oars (just dry fitted for now), oarlocks (also dry fitted), got the ironworks and nails done and can ship the rudder (but am leaving it off for now).  Working on the flying transom next.
 




 
 

Moving on to the splash panels I found a pretty big mistake.  Need to learn to read the plans, read the plans then read the plans some more BEFORE taking the next step.  
 
So when I made the rear seat I left the edges overhanging.

I got the general shape from the instruction manual template
 

One thing I never noticed was when I was placing the caprail that it basically stopped at the setback.  I then added another piece to finish off the rear cockpit caprail behind the seat.  Worked out great.
 
Now for the problem.  I am now going to try to fit the splash panels and find the overhang is in the way.  On the PLANS it is quite clear the splash panels extend aft of the seatback.  
 

 
Ug....  There are multiple ways to go about this that I can think of.
 
1)  Easiest would be to just leave it off.  Someone here on MSW went that way and their build looks great.  Also see 
 
NMM example

 
and Rodgers Collection

 
This leave a nice clean look but less interesting.  Also was trying to build this straight outta the box so there's that I guess.
 
2)  Option number 2 is to just add the splash guard in front of the seatback and shape so it flows nicely.  Someone else on MSW took that route.  The kit has a spare panel I painted up to see what it would look like.
 


Not bad I guess.
 
3) try to cut a notch into the panel and fit it around the seatback.

I think this may end up looking kinda busy and weird so not really a fan of this one.
 
4)  I could try to carefully shave down the seatback and place the splash panels where they are supposed to be but then I would also have to drop in a small filler piece to join the fore and aft caprails together.  This might work using wood putty/sawdust over the filler piece and some careful painting.  This is the most dangerous if I mess up the seatback because I cannot replace that. I am also not sure I can blend in the filler piece well.
 
Welp there you have it....  Lesson learned....  Read the plans AND understand them before proceeding.
 
Need to think on this for bit
 
 
 
 
 

Finished the inboard details.  Here are a few pictures
 


 


 
Next up is the outboard details including the frieze and rail, splash boards, rudder/tiller assembly and the flying transom.  Then its just the oars and display I think. 
 

Super fuzzy looking up close but irl not bad for basswood.  Was able to use scraper to get somewhat of a moulding there on the caprail.
 

 
 

Applied some wop to the exterior as well as the interior also started on the floorboards.  
 

One year anniversary!!! 
 
Fuzzy fuzzy fuzzy.  Getting some of the internal fairing done.
 

 

Was able to get the frames glued in.  It went pretty slow but the overall run is really nice.  I used a small level to make sure they were not tilted to the side.
 

 

 
 
This weekend hopefully will get the strengthening battens in as well as the bow filler piece and maybe, just maybe the first strake.
 
 

Thanks Steve.  I haven't started a regular kit in a very long time so we will see how it goes.  I always forget how much I hate laser char.
 

 
Also test fitting the rabbit...
 

 
Basswood is kinda fuzzy eh?

hi...  there is no building at this time, .....
but am waiting fore my new famly dog and crew member ...
he wil be here on des. 27 with the plane from Trondheim to stavanger .
8 weeks puppy 😲 , and its a silky terrier and has gene from usa.
in the photo he is 6 week.
 
svein erik

Post 45 Installation of the winch.
 
The actual winch was constructed some time ago (in Post 32) as a little scratch build:
 

 
  Here it is mounted on the deck
 

 
John

Was able to get the carvings mounted up on some scrap.  Remembering to flip one side so they are symmetrical
 

 
I think they fit very nicely.  
 


 
Initially I thought the color was too light in relation to the cast pieces but in natural light they do match pretty well.
 
Need to clean up some paint spots and then just have to mount it on its base add the rudder/tiller and will be done.  I think I am going with a plain case from Casesforcollectables.  Not sure they are the same but they look like the ones @Trussben used for his barge and longboat.  
 
Will take some nice final pictures when I get a chance.

Sorcery! Magic! Witchcraft!

great perseverance 

You do have to look extra hard for contemporary hull models that show guns.  But they are out there.  Here is my favorite.  Its Amazon....not one instance of rope on this model.   Again this isnt meant to discourage any of you guys from adding those details but I do want to explain why I am doing what I am with my model.   Its really my best attempt at a homage to the old time builders.  It was a widely accepted practice to not show a lick of rope unless the model was fully masted and rigged.  Not even on the bumpkins shown at the bow or hammock cranes or ship's wheel.
 

Things are proceeding slowly right now, one because some of the deck details are slow work but also because the holidays are coming up and Covid or not life gets a bit more hectic.
 

 
I’ve decked a few models in my time but here we are again with another first on Cheerful, the curved planked deck. The deck is planked in two belts (much like the hull only flatter) The first step of the process is to establish the curve for the inner belt of six planks either side from the five already laid. I used thin artist tape, perfect for the job. I had one clear staring point, the full six plank width at midships. maybe a general idea of the bow and stern end point from studying photos of Chuck’s model in the monograph. But then its no more than a feel for what looks right, not easy for my metric based mind. I stuck and unstuck tape until it wouldn’t stick any more then pulled out a new piece and started again. I had to ask for a little affirmation from Chuck I was in the ball park and that finally I was. With that done I duplicated my 'artistic' curve on the other side - which I might add is harder to do.  It did help to confirm equal distances from each bulkhead using small scrap wood.
 

 
Then it’s time to line the deck just as I did with the hull. I had marked the bulkhead locations back when I installed the false deck, that was a wise move on my part, no need to guess where they are at this point.
 
I converted the tape line to a pencil line and removed the tape. Using the planking fan and strips of card stock I worked each each bulkhead on both sides. This is tedious but essential work, it took me a full day to complete this task, there are no shortcuts to measure, mark, measure.
 

 
In order to avoid slivers of planks on the sides of the deck furniture the monograph notes to instead cut the plank at an angle creating a notch to fill with the next plank. I had six of these to make as it turns out. I made templates by cutting one card to be just the plank width then a second card to fit the notch, then used double sided tape to combine them and complete the template. 
 

 
These are not easy to make right. The concept is easy, the execution not so much in order to get a tight fit. I used more double side tape to attach the template the the ¼ plank and used my trusty #11 blade to cut the plank.  Then I did that 5 more times…ok more than 5 more times was needed to get 6 that fit right. I was thankful this was not a kit (yet again) because I just kept ripping and cutting ¼ planks until I had what I wanted. In the end it creates a nice look I think.
 
As with all the deck planks I ran a #2 pencil line down one side of each plank to simulate the caulking.  In the process of making these I twice knocked a hinge off the companionway, I decided not to replace them a third time until I was done with the decking.
 

 
I’m happy with how these came out and will admit to two modifications I made, on purpose, because I’m of limited skill. With creating the notched fits around the furniture I elected not to taper the first run of 6 plank belt because I didn’t think the combined tapered and notched plank looked right, at least not to the extent I could make them.
 

I also modified the butt shift pattern from the plans on this first row for a similar reason. As a result I spent a good deal of time on a paper copy of the plan modifying it to stay true to the four butt shift  pattern, then transferred those marks to the deck. I elected to use a razor saw to cut butt joints partway through a full length plank for those close to the stern or bow. This was the best way for me to ensure a clean taper given my limited skill. For model purposes I really only needed one actual cut joint per row.
 

Here’s the first belt competed, I’m not sure I got the curve exactly right, I think it will look fine once the 2nd belt is installed. I have not done the final sanding and scraping or applied any WOP, I’ll do that with the finished deck. I’m ok with the color and grain variation, the WOP will even it out and, like the hull, it gives the deck character.
 
Off to cutting hooded planks for the second belt and finishing up the deck.

Hi Greg,it's a waste of time doing that or telephoning the number there. I tried contacting him about the wrong book being sent,no replies. Found the number of his Blue Springs MO department on the paperwork that came with the book. Called and a very pleasant lady sorted my problem out straight away. Correct order on its way.
 
Dave  

Here is a video showing its use:
 
Like Bob said, it was real easy to use and very therapeutic.