MEDDO

Was able to get the frames glued in.  It went pretty slow but the overall run is really nice.  I used a small level to make sure they were not tilted to the side.
 

 

 
 
This weekend hopefully will get the strengthening battens in as well as the bow filler piece and maybe, just maybe the first strake.
 
 

Thanks Steve.  I haven't started a regular kit in a very long time so we will see how it goes.  I always forget how much I hate laser char.
 

 
Also test fitting the rabbit...
 

 
Basswood is kinda fuzzy eh?

hi...  there is no building at this time, .....
but am waiting fore my new famly dog and crew member ...
he wil be here on des. 27 with the plane from Trondheim to stavanger .
8 weeks puppy 😲 , and its a silky terrier and has gene from usa.
in the photo he is 6 week.
 
svein erik

Post 45 Installation of the winch.
 
The actual winch was constructed some time ago (in Post 32) as a little scratch build:
 

 
  Here it is mounted on the deck
 

 
John

Was able to get the carvings mounted up on some scrap.  Remembering to flip one side so they are symmetrical
 

 
I think they fit very nicely.  
 


 
Initially I thought the color was too light in relation to the cast pieces but in natural light they do match pretty well.
 
Need to clean up some paint spots and then just have to mount it on its base add the rudder/tiller and will be done.  I think I am going with a plain case from Casesforcollectables.  Not sure they are the same but they look like the ones @Trussben used for his barge and longboat.  
 
Will take some nice final pictures when I get a chance.

Sorcery! Magic! Witchcraft!

great perseverance 

You do have to look extra hard for contemporary hull models that show guns.  But they are out there.  Here is my favorite.  Its Amazon....not one instance of rope on this model.   Again this isnt meant to discourage any of you guys from adding those details but I do want to explain why I am doing what I am with my model.   Its really my best attempt at a homage to the old time builders.  It was a widely accepted practice to not show a lick of rope unless the model was fully masted and rigged.  Not even on the bumpkins shown at the bow or hammock cranes or ship's wheel.
 

Things are proceeding slowly right now, one because some of the deck details are slow work but also because the holidays are coming up and Covid or not life gets a bit more hectic.
 

 
I’ve decked a few models in my time but here we are again with another first on Cheerful, the curved planked deck. The deck is planked in two belts (much like the hull only flatter) The first step of the process is to establish the curve for the inner belt of six planks either side from the five already laid. I used thin artist tape, perfect for the job. I had one clear staring point, the full six plank width at midships. maybe a general idea of the bow and stern end point from studying photos of Chuck’s model in the monograph. But then its no more than a feel for what looks right, not easy for my metric based mind. I stuck and unstuck tape until it wouldn’t stick any more then pulled out a new piece and started again. I had to ask for a little affirmation from Chuck I was in the ball park and that finally I was. With that done I duplicated my 'artistic' curve on the other side - which I might add is harder to do.  It did help to confirm equal distances from each bulkhead using small scrap wood.
 

 
Then it’s time to line the deck just as I did with the hull. I had marked the bulkhead locations back when I installed the false deck, that was a wise move on my part, no need to guess where they are at this point.
 
I converted the tape line to a pencil line and removed the tape. Using the planking fan and strips of card stock I worked each each bulkhead on both sides. This is tedious but essential work, it took me a full day to complete this task, there are no shortcuts to measure, mark, measure.
 

 
In order to avoid slivers of planks on the sides of the deck furniture the monograph notes to instead cut the plank at an angle creating a notch to fill with the next plank. I had six of these to make as it turns out. I made templates by cutting one card to be just the plank width then a second card to fit the notch, then used double sided tape to combine them and complete the template. 
 

 
These are not easy to make right. The concept is easy, the execution not so much in order to get a tight fit. I used more double side tape to attach the template the the ¼ plank and used my trusty #11 blade to cut the plank.  Then I did that 5 more times…ok more than 5 more times was needed to get 6 that fit right. I was thankful this was not a kit (yet again) because I just kept ripping and cutting ¼ planks until I had what I wanted. In the end it creates a nice look I think.
 
As with all the deck planks I ran a #2 pencil line down one side of each plank to simulate the caulking.  In the process of making these I twice knocked a hinge off the companionway, I decided not to replace them a third time until I was done with the decking.
 

 
I’m happy with how these came out and will admit to two modifications I made, on purpose, because I’m of limited skill. With creating the notched fits around the furniture I elected not to taper the first run of 6 plank belt because I didn’t think the combined tapered and notched plank looked right, at least not to the extent I could make them.
 

I also modified the butt shift pattern from the plans on this first row for a similar reason. As a result I spent a good deal of time on a paper copy of the plan modifying it to stay true to the four butt shift  pattern, then transferred those marks to the deck. I elected to use a razor saw to cut butt joints partway through a full length plank for those close to the stern or bow. This was the best way for me to ensure a clean taper given my limited skill. For model purposes I really only needed one actual cut joint per row.
 

Here’s the first belt competed, I’m not sure I got the curve exactly right, I think it will look fine once the 2nd belt is installed. I have not done the final sanding and scraping or applied any WOP, I’ll do that with the finished deck. I’m ok with the color and grain variation, the WOP will even it out and, like the hull, it gives the deck character.
 
Off to cutting hooded planks for the second belt and finishing up the deck.

Hi Greg,it's a waste of time doing that or telephoning the number there. I tried contacting him about the wrong book being sent,no replies. Found the number of his Blue Springs MO department on the paperwork that came with the book. Called and a very pleasant lady sorted my problem out straight away. Correct order on its way.
 
Dave  

Here is a video showing its use:
 
Like Bob said, it was real easy to use and very therapeutic. 

Not much has happened since my last post but thought I would give an update on my progress.  I have started to work on the shrouds and the first thing that I did was to make the deadeyes.  The Syren deadeyes are made up of three layers that are glued together.   I made a simple jig to hold the layers as I glued them up.
 

 
Once glued up, I separated them from the frame that was holding them.  I sanded off the laser burn on the edges being careful not to change the shape of the deadeye.  I then placed them in my Model Expo block tumbler to soften and round their edges.
 

 
Here is a picture with the deadeyes stropped with 24 gauge wire and the hooks added.
 

 
The next step was to make the straps that hold the deadeyes and nail them to the wales.  I pre-bent the straps around the molding before I installed them.  I then tried blackening them, but failed miserably.  So I wound up priming them and painting them with matte black paint.  Then I installed them per the instructions.
 

 
The next step was to use my Syren Serv-o-Matic serving machine to serve my shrouds and backstays where they are seized around the mast.  This was my first time using the machine and it worked great.  I had no problems and I am pleased with the results.
 

 
Next up is the installation of the shrouds and the backstays.

I was wondering about aspen.  I was recently at my local big box store and picked up a piece that is 48x3x1/4 inch and it is pure white with no real visible grain.  Was thinking for deck planking with no complex curves or carving it may work out well.  It is a bit soft but doesn’t seem to “fuzz” too much.  Not sure about staining/painting but for less than 4$ it was worth a try.

Very nice result John.  Cant wait to see it in person.

By the time you build your third framed model, you won't have to re-do the cant frames over at all you'll be so experienced. It will be too late to recant!
 
I notice that you tried to camouflage your bandaged thumb with the same color as your coverall. I hope it's healing  well.

It took me four months to redecorate my workshop, and then I made some tools of my own and put off the construction of the hull. For those of you who care about the progress of the ship, I'm sorry. Should be back on track by the end of the year....

Post 43: Cannon tackle
 
These were made up from Syren 3mm blocks and 3mm hooks from Dafi.  There are all sorts of jigs described on this site for siezing these.  I found it pretty difficult to achieve a neat appearance on these small blocks.
 
Here's the jig I used
 

 
The blocks were held by two copper pins epoxied into the board. Syren 0.3mm rope was threaded through the hook then around the block and held in place by slots cut into the vertical board.   short length of fly tying thread was wrapped a couple of times between the block and the hook just to keep the hook from binding on the block.
 

 
The rope was glued to the block with 50:50 PVA and when this was dry it was tied off to the back of the block with a square knot.  After sealing this with hypo cement and trimmed off with a sharp scalpel blade.  Hereare some examples
 

 
The tacles were rigged on a jig with two eyebolts and jecked on a mock up gun before rigging to the guns on the deck.
 

 

 
Finally, rope cols were made by wrapping rgw rope around a 3.6 mm dowel and sealing with 50;50 PVA
 

 

 
I am not entirely satisfied with the look.  They are pretty untidy and the blocks are very close together (as I suppose they would be).  I could have used smaller diameter ringbolts but this would only have separated the blocks about by another 0.5 mm.  The only advantage would have been that it would probably have kept the hooks in place.  I found that they slipped out of these ringbolts very easly and so it was tricky to get both rings secured.
 
John
 
 

Thanks
 
The rudder trunk is pretty straight forward.  Parts are all laser cut but will probably require minor tweaking to fit everyone's model perfectly.  There is a laser cut rectangular build jig marked with an X.  This is to help you build it squared up.  The two sides are glued to this first as shown below.  But before you do....test fit each side panel at the stern to make sure it fits.  Make adjustments to get it snug against the inboard side of the counter.  Then glue them to the side of the base jig.....keep the sides at right angles.
 

Then add the front panel....easy - peasy.
 

Then add the top.  Keep in mind that the aft edge of the top is beveled so it fits snug against the counter planking.   The top also has the slightest overhang and the edges were softened a bit.   No hard edges.   Its not glued on yet.   There will be two benches on each side of the trunk which I will make next.
 

To finish up the rudder and get it installed, it is just a matter of repeating the process of placing the hinges on the rudder post.   They are also wooden and laser cut from boxwood.  Just make sure you are carful to line them up with their partners on the rudder and angle them properly.  See below.   Once again the edges were painted black ahead of time.
 

Interesting is the fact that you will have to line up the holes in these so you can hang the rudder in place.  That is not an easy feat.  But here is a good cheat or trick.   You only really need two pins on the rudder to engage the hinges on the hull.   Just the top and bottom really need the pins engaged.  So you can literally snip them off the other hinges or not add them to begin with.  They are not seen and on a scale model dont really serve a purpose.  I did this and I bet you cant tell!!!
 
Then add long strips of 1/16" x 1/32" boxwood just ahead of the hinges to use as the straps.  Take their lengths from the plans.  This is just as we did on the rudder itself.  Paint the edges of the strips black first.
 
Once glued onto the hull with the angles all matching, you can sand them all down thinner so they look in scale.  Again, once painted and weathered they will look like metal pintels and gudgeons.
 
But look at the photo below.  At this stage I marked in pencil where the bolts should be.  Then I drilled holes for the black monofilament. I used a #73 bit.  Insert the black 20lb fishing line into the holes and snip the ends off leaving them stand proud to simulate the bolt heads.
 

Here is the finished rudder with bolt heads.  Its painted black and weathered a little bit.  Also notice the small bowtie plate under them.  This is laser cut for you out of laser board.   Bolts were simulated on this as well.
 

I also added the horse shoe plate at the bow along the gripe.  This is also laser cut for you.  A bit of weathering powders were used here also.
 

That is it for this update and now I will start on that rudder trunk and benches inboard in the great cabin.  
 

I have always liked this ship.  Very similar to the Swan class but with a full quarter galley and the added interest of the fire mechanism

I have always liked this ship.  Very similar to the Swan class but with a full quarter galley and the added interest of the fire mechanism

Very nice result John.  Cant wait to see it in person.

I have always liked this ship.  Very similar to the Swan class but with a full quarter galley and the added interest of the fire mechanism

The friction of the wheels does absorb some of the energy, but as you can see from this video, the gun does recoil until the breech line stops it.
 
 
 
 
In this video there is no breech line and the gun rolls quite a distance.