MEDDO

Reading through various threads on MSW, I see where people refer to the book The Lore of Ships.  I thought it might be appropriate to provide information about the book.  I use the book a bit and spend a lot of time just looking at the pages in hopes of learning something.  (Sometimes I do learn or understand better.) The book does provide a lot of information that’s general in nature but gets specific within the images on the pages. 
 
I know that sounds contradictory.  However, the book covers a wide range of subjects (therefore, a general reference) using illustrations with a lot of details. 
 
This review covers the 1972 edition published by Crescent Books (New York).  The original publication date was 1963 by Tre Tryckare (Stockholm Sweden), a publishing company.  Minor issue, but there is no author/person I can find by that name.  The book is a collaboration of many people using multiple sources. 
 
(As a side bar:  The book was edited by Sam Svensson and republished in 1998 by Barnes and Noble.  Svensson wrote the book’s Introduction section and the commentary to the Spars and Rigging section.)
 
All editions are hard cover.  The 1972 edition is 11 X 12 inches (and I imagine the others the same size) with 279 pages.  The book contains over 1500 illustrations and (by my estimate) over 2500 index entries. 
 
You can find copies on the used book sites such as Thrift Books and Good Reads as well as Amazon. Prices vary based on store and condition of the book.  The price range I found runs from $8 to $40 US. 
 
The 11 sections of the book cover: Introduction; Hull; Spars and Riggings; The Sail; Propulsion; Fishing; Yachting; Gunnery; Navigation; Ship-Handling and Index.  Each section starts with an introduction on the subject.  Then, as listed on the contents page, more detailed illustrations follow within each section.
 
Each section has drawings and illustrations, no photos.  The crisp, clean, drawings have well identified callouts and labels.  Their presentation gives an authoritative look and feel to the individual illustrations.  While you will find some details in the identifying text, the book does not have a tremendous amount of written information.  Additionally, while the list of sources contains a lot of named material, the book does not tie specific information to the details in the drawings.  For example: National Geographic shows as a reference, but no specific edition or articles are cited.  I’d suggest additional cross reference material be used depending on your research purpose.
 
If the item you research has some connection to ships and things nautical, you will likely find it here.  Wooden sailing ships to steel hulled ships; sails to steam engines; compass roses to sextants; cannon balls to rockets; they are all here. Even objects like signal flags, clothing, navigation and food objects show up in the book. 
 
This book does not provide details on any specific ship or boat.  In a few instances, the name or type of a ship and maybe an era are identified.  However, this book allows you look at minute details of general use and interest.  You can glean a lot of information from studying the illustrations.
 
I use this book as my ‘go to’ to look for an object.  After finding the object or item, you can easily see similar, related items. For example, you look up ‘Tackles and blocks.’  On the same page (p. 123) you can see the relative increase in power from a single whip to a three by four tackle.  So, again, general information on various blocks but, in this case, no specifics on when or where a block might be used.
 
That vast number of illustrations has its drawbacks.  I find that as I look for some specific item, I get drawn down a rabbit’s warren. I can easily spend time just turning pages and looking at other objects and illustrations.  However, the excursion provides an enjoyable journey and may show you some things you did not know.
 
I think this book serves as a good general resource and starting point for researching details on what an object looks like.  It is a matter of a picture being worth 1000 words.  You will probably find that looking for a term or object in the Index faster than trying to find something looking through the Contents.
 
Here’s some samples of the drawings and illustrations;
 
 

Contents.  Just a portion to show details.  As you can see, the contents lists the subjects, but not in the more traditional method of a table of contents.  Hence, the index may help you find an item faster.
 

Typical sail and rigging drawing.  You can see the detail listing of the callouts. 
 

View of boilers.  Shows that the book goes beyond just ships with sails.  As before, detailed callout list for the page.  
 

Blocks and tackles.  Since I mentioned this page specifically (p123) it seems worth showing.  The ‘curvy’ view at the top is due to my not wanting to lay the page too flat for photography.  The layout is a straight, horizontal line of drawings. 
 
I hope you found this review useful.  Please feel free to comment and share your views.  

Hello everyone and thank you for all of your Likes.  It's been a busy week for Cheerful.  Drilled two holes through the keel and into the former just over an inch long. Tapped it to 4-40.  Still have to decide how it will be mounted but it will be ready for mounting one way or another.
 
 

 
 

 
 
Next came the gratings. These where made using Chuck's mini kit.  In order to profile the coamings to match the curve of the deck, I used masking tape to protect the center while sanding the outer edges then removed the tape and finished rounding the entire top.  Found that it was easier for me to keep track of how evenly each side was being sanded.
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
Didn't want to remove anymore material on the under side of the coamings in order to match the curve of the deck so 1/32 inch strips of wood were glued to the two sides that run parallel to the keel.
 
 

 
 
I had a hankering to plank the deck. Probably suffering withdrawal from planking the hull. I am going to plank it as shown in the plans. Stared at the bow and added furniture as I went.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
The companionway and the skylight were made back in the summer while waiting for the wood package. They just needed a bit of finishing up. Used a piece of wire bent into a U and pushed it into a hole drilled on each side of the hinge to simulate the pin. Then used straight pins to hold down the straps. Nothing is glued.
 
 

 
 

 
 
Only the main grating needed a wider plank fabbed up.
 
 

 
 
This was my first nibbed plank. It was a bit of an exciting moment.
 
 

 
 
After that they seemed to get easier. Used a brass strip as a guide 
 
 

 
 
The scarf joints just aft of the catheads had to be faked because I couldn't really confirm where the first nibbed plank would land
 
 

 
 

 
 
Gave it a pretty good sanding and scraping and then it's first coat of w-o-p.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
The nibbing is far from symmetrical.  So many variables on my deck. If you close one eye when you walk by it looks pretty good. The last plank on starboard was 5/32 inch and the last two planks on port were 5/32 inch.
 
See you next time....Paul
 
Just realized that if you don't insert all of the photos that you upload they automatically insert themselves at the end of the post. 
 
 
 
 

Photos of the carving are in the original build log https://modelshipworld.com/topic/370-speedwell-by-dvm27-greg-herbert-ketch-rigged-sloop-1752/page/8/#comment-809695, message #223 I believe.
 

Rigged Speedwell dimensions: length (tip of ensign staff to end of jib boom) - 34". Height - 25 1/2", width - 12" at the main yard. The unrigged hull is 22" in length.
 
Chuck will have many challenges in making her into a kit but it starts with the carvings. That's what attracted me to her initially. If he can have carvings produced of similar quality to Winchelsea then I have no doubt this will be the finest ship model kit ever produced.
 
By the way, for those first time plank on framers, the photo of Pegasus  shown above to compare with Speedwell is my first failed attempt. That's several months work which is basically firewood but that I could not throw away. I believe the system Chuck is designing will prevent failures like this. Now all of you Winchelsea-ites get back to work so Chuck can proceed to the next project!
 

Yes indeed....so still lots of choices to be made.  The Cheerful hull is 18" long at 1/4" scale.   So those who are familiar with it.....it will be only a couple of inches longer.   But the Cheerful is also much wider at mid ship.  Speedwell is a long narrow hull which is quite beautiful. 

Binnacle test on the model.   This was fun to build.  I have plenty of construction photos which I will soon upload as well.  A big Thank You to David Antscherl who was kind enough to paint the friezes for the binnacle.   More to follow soon.   But breaking for dinner now.
 



 
 
 

I’m certainly interested if you go ahead with this project in POF @ 1:48, with a full rig.

I chose to model her for a couple of reasons. First,  she would fit into the last available space in my study (fully rigged). Second, she's a relatively easy rig when compared to a three masted ship. But most importantly her carvings and profile make for a beautiful model. I believe that Chuck will make this kit both accessible for first time POF modelers and a beautiful representation of the NMM model.  

This is the Speedwell.   The model on the bottom is Greg Herbert's model.  There is a lot of info available mainly because David Antscherl and Greg have already documented it in their two book series.   In addition there are plenty of original drafts and the Contemporary model. Making a kit with laser cut pieces and CNC carvings is a logical next step in my opinion.  I cant think of a better suited "learning" subject for a POF model.  Mainly because of its size and decorative appearance.  Plus the not to burdensome number of guns and two masted rig.  I figured why not do this one before it gets pirated so a legit version could be made available of it.
 
See here for Greg's beautiful scratch -built version.
 
and here
I am hoping because of the support and available resources that there will be a great deal of interest in such a project.  Especially if many have the books but not the tools or experience or confidence to build it entirely from scratch.
 
Not to gunk up this build log too much but please feel free let me know if this is a subject that could be of interest.
 
 

Currently under consideration....fully rigged.   Planked above the wales with frames exposed below.
 

I think you’ll find a HUGE interest in a POF kit Chuck. An offering of the quality you have produced with everything you have done  so far will be head and shoulders above anything else available on the market today. Add to that your approach to building and documenting as you go (as in Winnie), and I think you will have a real winner on your hands.

No rigging on the wheel for me.  But you can do that if you like.  I would guess a .025 or .030 rope size.  No blocks needed because the rope goes through the gun deck.  
 
i did bot prime the brass tube.  I did however run some steel wool over it.  But you guys could also use styrene tube or even turn the drum from wood.  A 1/4 dowel would work as well.  Lots of options there for you guys.
 
And yes I am getting excited about a pof kit.  I hope there is some interest out there.  I would hate to start making one and have no interest from the builders at large.  Unless of course only having the option to buy pof kits from china is ok with most of you.
 
Please share your level of interest!!!!

Welcome!  We love large pictures 😀 When you are ready you can start a build log and ask tons of questions.  Someone here can answer about every question you may have.

Hey everyone, hope you are all doing good.  I have been doing a fair bit of jumping around with Cheerful.  Was going to finish the exterior of the hull but decided to do the cap rails first. the reason being that I am scraping the fancy profile directly into the outboard edge of the rail instead of attaching a separate molding. Cut the cap rail from 1/16 inch cedar sheet, scraped the profile, and sanded down the inboard edge to the bulwark. Didn't want to install the molding between the cap rail and the wales in case the cap rail needed sanding and rescraping of the profile. 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
While in the vicinity I decided to do the margin planks.
 
 

 
 

 
 
I had made the knees a while ago so now seemed as good a time as any to install them.
 

 

 
 
 

 
 
The inside of the counter planks look a bit rough because  I applied a few layers of diluted PVA in case the red paint seeped through the joints and became visible on the exterior.   I'm calling it environmental wear and tear.
 
 

 
 
Gave the hull another sanding. Mostly the planks that tuck into the rabbet at the bow.
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
Glued on the molding above the the wales but forgot to snap some pics. They'll be in the next post but this is my molding profile station.
 
 

 
 
 

I finally got my Serv-o-matic apparatus built after buying it about 2 years ago. I realize I have a lot of models sitting in my closet that need building. While working on the Royal Barge I'm prepping for my next project when this one is completed. I'm leaning towards building the "Private Armed Schooner (Lively of Baltimore 1813)" from The Lumber Yard for model shipwrights. This seems like it will be a good kit to progress to the next level in my journey of model ship building. Although lively isn't technically a ship it will be the first time I'm tackling a fully rigged vessel with a canon. But I'm only half done with the barge and I'm in no hurry to get it done. I made that mistake two years ago by giving my self a deadline because I wanted to enter it into a show. So the lesson here is, slow down and take your time. At least I got the Serv-o-matic built in preparation for my next project what ever it might be.  

Jim Byrnes now recommends Martindale blades, which I use on my Byrnes saw. A new blade from Jim costs $17, why fool around with old blades.  I maintain the saw as Jim recommends an periodically clean the blade with alcohol before much of anything builds up. I’ve had, and cared for, the saw for at least 20+ years and have had zero problems with it other than replacing the blades I use only twice during those 20+ years. 
 
I did cut through the stop on the cross cut table once, Jim sent me a replacement. As someone said, let’s support the maker of the best tools modelers could find and buy what we need from Byrnes Model Machines. 

Some small progress on the starboard side:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As I'm now on a brief respite from my usual stuff, I thought I'd fill in a little time with the HMS Winchelsea Double Capstan kit that I got from Syren a while ago. I'll work on this between killing aliens on my PlayStation and other important daily stuff 😁
 
This is a pic of the kit contents, minus the black filament that is used for the bolt heads. The first task was to gently clean up any surface scorch from the laser. Thankfully, there's very little, and I used both 320 and 400 grit paper to finish the surfaces. 
 
I'll be working on this over the next days and weeks. 
 

Thank you to everyone who attended the 2021 NRG Annual Meeting on Saturday, the 20th.  The meeting was recorded but I cannot tell you exactly when it will be available for viewing.  As mentioned during the meeting, whether we have an in-person 2022 Conference is dependent on the COVID-19 situation in the Spring.  As soon as we have made a decision, we will notify the membership via email.

To Hsae: The square holes are made with small diameter milling bit (0,5 mm) and the rest with file.
To popash42: I am using VCarve Desktop software for CNC milling. As regards Laser Engraver, I´m not sure, but the VCarve Desktop is propably not primarily intended for laser. You can find information on the optional laser add-on module on the Vectric website (https://www.vectric.com/products/laser-module).
Pinrails.

I think I'm calling the keel finished (...I'm also out of 0.5mm drill bits. I think I need to find a better set of bits - I've bought the cheap PCB bits off eBay too many times now). The black monofilament above worked perfectly (7/8" bolts at scale). I tried to blacken the brass on the keel and the liquid turned blue as it reacted and dyed the wood (live and learn - I tested the liquid on wood without any brass to react too which was not a quality test as I found out). Now to go pickup a build board (and try not to shed a tear as I bore and tap two holes into the beautiful piece I just built).
 

 

I finished up the fcastle rail on the starboard side.  That left only a few fittings to make which are all added to the fcastle rail.   These include the spanshackle cleat.  This is made in three laser cut layers.   It will be painted black and positioned on the rail following the plans.  Under this cleat are two posts to help support the rail.
 

There is also the "cat block" .  This is laser cut and is 1/4" wide.  But you will need to sand a curve into it that matches the curve of the rail.  If you saved the laser cut sheet for the rail this is perfect for tracing the shape.  Then sand it carefully to match.  Insert the small sheave and paint it black.
 

The last remaining fitting is another sheave as part of cleat....I am having a brain fart and recall its name currently.  It is positioned along the bulwarks on the inboard side of the spanshackle cleat.  This has been laser cut also and all you need to do is add the small sheave disc.  Then paint it black...but below the caprail it should be painted red.
 
You can see it in the photos below.
 


In addition I have added all the eyebolts and the spanshackles.   The spanshackles are made from 22 gauge SQUARE wire.  If you cant find any square wire you can use regular 22 gauge wire.  Use the plans to find the locations for the eyebolts and the size for the spanshackle.
 
This pretty much finishes the fcastle details and chapter 9. The only thing I have yet to do is the cover boards for the stack opening.  Those should be made out of any scrap 3/64" thick strips or sheet.  This wont be laser cut because everyones stack will be positioned slightly different.   
 
Some overall pictures of the hull up to this point.  Next I will start chapter 10 which is finishing up the qdeck details and rail.
 
 
 

 

I have to agree with Bob's reasoning and his recommendation to get Vol 2. 
 

It's not an "either/or," but rather a "both/and" kind of thing. These volumes are simply collections of reprints of the "Shop Notes" section of the NRG Journal over two spans of time. (They should be due for another volume one of these days soon.) The subject matter is not highly organized in terms of distinguishing between highly sophisticated techniques and those which "will help the newbie most." (All will eventually be helpful to a newbie, but some will appeal primarily to the more experienced builder.) These books are goldmines of useful how-to-do it information, but step-by-step tutorials for newbies they are not.
 
Each volume can be purchased for $35 from the NRG Store online. Nautical Research Guild (thenrgstore.org) Used copies in good shape cost perhaps half that on average, but, by the time you cover shipping, you might as well spring for a brand new copy in good shape. If buying Volume I used, try to get a later printing which is spiral bound. It's helpful if the book will lay flat with the covers turned all the way back, reducing the space the book will take on your bench and making for easy copying of pages if that is desired. My Volume 1, purchased many years ago, was the glued paperback binding and it sheds pages, a problem I've solved with a couple of binder clips.  If cost is a limitation, used copies of both volumes are readily available on eBay and Amazon used books. See: Ship Modeler s Shop Notes 9780960345618 | eBay and Ship Modeler's Shop Notes: Edson, Merritt, Lankford, Ben, Mueller, Edward, Rubin, Norman: 9780960345618: Amazon.com: Books
 
To answer your question directly, if you can only afford one, I'd suggest Volume II, since it is the more recent selection of Shop Notes articles. Some of the material in Volume I, while still useful, can be somewhat dated. The level of sophistication in ship modeling has increased markedly in the last couple of decades. You can then buy Volume I later, as both remain in print. 
 
If you pursue the hobby for any length of time, you will quickly discover (and apparently already have) that an adequate research library is an essential tool for the ship modeler. Beware: IMHO, most of the newbie "how to do it" books advertised as such are not worth what they ask for them. Use the forum search engine to find threads on which books to buy for a decent reference library and start by buying the classics in your area of interest which you will find identified there. It's a good idea to develop the habit of making a "budget" for building your reference library and stick to it. By committing to $25 (or more) a month, which in today's money is no more than the old "three martini lunch" plus tip, and scouring for used books on line, you will be able to painlessly buy a book a month or so.

Hi 😊