kirill4

Frank, My congratulations!!! Looks Great! model itself and common vew ,where she dropped anchor... good job done!!! all the Best! Kirill

those are the last for today... with wrong attachement... will be continued in September...I hope... I wish All the Best of all of you and good progress with yours current projects!!!

there is I did some mistake,with the places ,where attached halliard running ends...first choice was to securevthem on the aft reilings...suppose it is not correct... next vacation I planned to make some rearrangements,and shift them closer to the Fmast base...

some more pictures...relevant illustration abt ...how to fitt F mast halliards... I have not too much pictrs of spanish galleon,where we could clearly see details...so it will be kind of mix of dutch,english,swedish and danish metods of halliards arrangements...+info from Anderson book mostly Dutch ))

Thank You very much Robin for your warm comment... I try... but still too much black spots remains,how it must be ,looks like...the hull construction due to it is plastic modell...ommited complitelly...but actually ...seems to me ...it is one big mistake...so just I try to do...what can I do ...and what I could understand...from this rigging questions...lets say...in direction of spanish galleon... ))

next portion of pictures -preparation of assosiated blocks of parrels and parrels itself they are in very simplified version...... just imitation of real thing

Good day, Dear friends, I did some some progress ,since last posts... unfortunately not so muchbas I planned to do during this my vacation...but at least Im very close now to start main mast running rigging !!! )) Im very glad that I finally passed that most monotonious phase of rattling main mast shrouds...to fitt yards with sails and add running rigging ,will be much easy... also I completed jobs with F mast halliards...which remains uncompleted since last activities on my shipyard with this halliard installation, actually with those crowfeet...was a problem,how to imitate theiir attachment to the stays and how to show equal tension of each bridlеs- this I managed by apply liquid CA on each bridle while they were under extra load...when clue dried, all treads remains strait... that effect wich I need...same time,in the middle of the process,when all bridles were movable,I adjusted stays in slightly curved position (up) as they looks at the real ship...almost same I saw on the picture of Kalmar Nykel replica... there are some recent fotoes

Good day, Dear Steve,WackoWolf Thanks for Your warm comments, I'm very sorry since long time I didn't refresh my building report,....for some reasons...but I didn't give it up, still have some progress...but everything goes very slowly... Steve, You asked abt imitation of nails head... afraid my reply is too late,...but anyway... I did it mixing acrylic Matt vanish with very fine "finish crack filler",which remains from that time when I did my flat repairing...actually such staff remained a lot,may be 500 gym. but for our purpose we need a few grams. only ))... so this "finish fine chalk Crack filler" need to mix with acrylic Matt vanish, to reach some kind of cream consistency, and than you can use it for imitation nails/bolts head...I used some kind of dosage plastic tube to apply this staff on the surface...when you did micro drop ,wait couple of seconds,and than gently press it ,to make it flat...when it became dry,paint it to the color You need and finally You will have such nails head imitation...need to have a little bit practice ,but after couple of tries You will have good results...I'm very sorry for my English, but hope You did catch idea.. Some pctrs of the current stage of my building you can see here http://karopka.ru/forum/forum190/topic10341/?PAGEN_1=84 And here http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t2801f761-Spanish-galleon-the-Armada-campaign-in-just-one-more-version-3.html Hope I will be able to return to my project at the end of December this year,or in the beginning of the next... Wish all of you all the Best!!! Kirill

Hi Matti, When I first time saw Your model ,I never could say that it is Your first "try"...looks very proffessional! but if You did so perfect and most complicated job, all those small minority need to be done at the same level, as seems to me It is not ness-ry to make full guns rigging, may be it will be sufficient to install breeching only and to install all ness-ry ring-bolts without tackles,as You did? But the question about too thin and short breeching remains...but of couse it is not critical point All The best!

here is the table -auto calculation ropes thicknes for standing rigging, http://files.mail.ru/24119DE76F2E44389306AA8EC6EA5285 sizes of running rigging ropes -refer to Rolf Hoeckel book "Modellbau von Schiffen des 16 und 17 Jahrhunderts"

oops this table ,for rope diam.calculation,all terms in russian...useless...I need to translate in english...will take time

Hello J,Hello Popeye Yes,J, absolutely agree - if planking finished - better don't cut ,just left it as it is...with plastic it is very easy to recover later adjustments,but for wood...i think better don't toch " we seem to have the beginnings of a Half Moon club going on here" Yes, Why not as for me - I like galleon type and HM as one of them...since 2009 my interests all the time running around this subject,looking for information abt spanish galleon I acted as vacuum cleaner and collected all info which I can found abt galleons in common and HM in particular even never build it...HM - look nice, hull and decoration and rigging...first glance -looks simple ,but when You be busy with construction it became not so simple... By my opinion there are two ways building kit (wooden or plastic ,doesn't matter) - just assemble as it is in the kit box as accurate as possible ...or try to build using available information as much(as could) as possible I can see that this kit quite accurate reproduction of historical research and could be built very close to existing sailing replica,of cause we can talk just abt one of the HM version Advantages- those people who build HM sailing replica already did a lot of research and built sailing vessel , looking at rigging plan and hull lines (blue one,above) I can see that it was developed very close to the contemporary drwngs of small duch galleon and kit's hull lines , as I can see -done in the same way...so finaly model also will looks very nice and historical accurate... however some remarks frm my side as exterior spectator 1. during building spar(masts and yards) need to check/adjust their length and proportion, those from the kit looks disproportionately big,at least in height of the masts and topmasts...I don't know abt diam - need to recalculate check and adjust masts and top masts and flagstaf construction and the way of connection 2.discard kit rigging scheme as inaccurate( too much mistakes) - better use those from existing replica 3.carefully check and adjust thikness of rigging ropes - standing and running rigging should have set of various diameters ,for the model it could be simplified like ,for example fore stay and main stay - same diam, fore and main shrouds -same diam , etc, but masts and topmasts stay and their shrouds need to be different in diam ///and so on regarding rest of the rope this table(in attach) will help to easilly recalculate diam of the standing and running rigging depend on main mast diam. measured where it penetrates deck planking...not sure abt used metric system in this table ,if it is comfortably to use thread for rigging need to be used w/o pile,which is looks unsightly on the model - there are some simple trics to solve such problem( candle flame-just fast pull thread trough, or special bee wax or replace for polyester threads of ness-ry diam.) 4.blocks for running rigging need to be at least 3 different diam.- in case of max. simplification,actually their size should be calculated depend on ropes diameters. shape of the kit blocks ,as usual, is wrong (need to be more oval and w/o such sharp edges), but correct shape blocks available - need to buy separately,they a little bit more expensive,but looks absolutelly different and nice ...but incorrect blocks ,by my own opinion , just killing nice built models...nice and precission made rigging -may be 70% of model impression Uph, wrote too much but this observations, as exterior spectator,may be have sence...at least for me All The Best! Kirill

Hi J I red marked what I meant-scappers - see ,practicaly they made them much more in q-ty compare to the drwng... Lion Heads on the sides , if we are talking abt the same - for sails rigging there are more pctrs which could be usefull https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=half+moon+replica in case You didn't see them this is nice and historical acurate replica - there are a few in the world which build with such good quality,but not like tourists show Regarding washing for decor - by my opinion, if it used w/o "fanatism" it always makes positive results -could say as "plastic man" at least for the gold part of your decor...white -should be washed very-very light or not at all All The Best K i r i l l

and final pictures in this season installation the rest of spritsail rigging next session should happend in september - october ... will try to fabricate and install rest of the fore mast sails and start to do smth with grotmast Thanks everyone hwo spent time to look at my experiments ALL THE BEST!

Next stage,this month and last till my next vacation in september - spritsail making and installation I used high quality percale for sails making - by my opinion- it is the best material even for scale 1:100 remains more or less acceptable... For this scale I simplified procedure as much as possible, and use textile clue wherever posible - bolt ropes - clued to the sail edge,cloth connection imitated by pencil sharped to hair thick and than all lines need to be light squeezed by awl ... Fabric painted by wood stain in advance soaked in mix of water and white wooden clue and dried without ironing - after such treatment looks and feel like paper -very handle to work with

"I started - in my head - the next Project - the Galeone Roter Löwe" Hi Max, sounds "promising" ! I like this type of vessel Do You have "The rigging of ships. In the days of the Spritsail topmast 1600-1720 - Anderson" ?- very usefull book when You will be busy with galleon rigging, and also I like and found very informative Duyfken replica fotoes - plenty specific and accurate historical reconstruction could be seen...

Hi J, paint jobs done very nice...neatly... did You finish painting or will use "washing" to lift up decor relief and make it more expressive like this blue part of emblem? On deck - as I understood there should be scuppers( bulwark cutted through,like we can see on replica) and water-way planks installed? Sorry for stupid question, I'm not familiar with wooden modelling and don't know the "regulation" You follow building Your model, may be idea was just follow kit instruction ,but from other side I saw You already replaced mast tops for more correct type... All the Best! Kirill

Hi, Matti I liked this fotoes You made -where model placed in front of trees...and color schema used for painting...really perfect ! artistic!!! qstn abt guns - looks strange for me arrangements of breeching(too thin and short) and coil ?...or they are installed temporary? or there is some specific for this vessel? All the best! Kirill

than there was a problem with guns...actually spanish galleon should have two wheel gun-carriage, kit version was 4 wheel, and I tried to modify it for two wheels carriage...let say I did it formal only due to wrong position of kit guns frame which positioned too low, and full size modification was not available ...so I did what I did , and removed previously installed gun tackles ...I don't know what kind of arrangements of this tackles need to be done for breech-loader guns and I left breeching only Mary Roze armament pozition - just for example as it was very near to galleon age

Hi all, after completion foremast , I continue with fore topmast and topgallant shrouds and their futtock shrouds,and installed running backstays, as soon as it was done ,I started installation of fore topmast and topgallant stay

Ok futtock shrouds and catharpin next step ... catharpins on my models will not be installed , I found that it is not "mandatory" for galleon age ....the rest I tried to do as it is discribed in" The rigging of ships. In the days of the Spritsail topmast 1600-1720 - Anderson" than I installed lower yard ties and halliards,ties clued to cap and tightened by halliards , lower yard will be installed later on together with fore sail

Hi J, Nice job, really looks nice! As I understood - lions used as the figurehead- just good simbol of POWER! as far as I can see on many galleons contemporary drwngs - lions very often used ...I think it is the simplest explanation ...and not only galleon age but later on, this variations of lions were in use may be more often on navy vessel? Abt red ship side I'm not so sure if it is ness-ry to use this color on HM ,if she is not navy vessel(trade vessels -brown or dark wood or natural wood color),and need to be colored red in case of "Yes" red color- I think mostly matter of fashion for navy than need to have it for some practice purposes But if You painted it red -it will not be mistake because in this time merchant vessels easily became navy and most of the time they have same armament... Actually it should not be really red color, need to be more close to red ochre - blood red there is good Rolf Hoeckel book "Modellbau von Schiffen des 16 und 17 Jahrhunderts" where he told abt painting/color... there is HM replica - red color but on this picture of merchant dutch vessel - no red color and no figurehead ....I think in both cases You will be right, which color scheme You will choose (sorry my English) All the best! Kirill

next stage for me was the fore mast top rope installation...actually it is not necessary to have it in normal sailing condition...but I wanted to have it just for fun During top rope installation I've found that I need to replace mast bitt - this part from the kit was wrong construction and couldn't adopt my top rope...so I fabricated new one from telefon plastic cards... than there was questn how and where to secure running end of this rope...I didn't find better solution but only to install additional cleat...it is funny, but I don't know how it should be arranged on galleon...I didn't find this arrangement on modern galleon sailing replica From the books I only understood that mast bitt should have 4-th sheeve fo this rope

Next stage for me was just continue to attach shrouds without laniards and when all set was installed left them like this for a moment, than I fabricate fore stay with loop and mouse and install it and adjust nessry lenght ...and after that only it was possible to remove carton and install and adjust laniards...adjusting laniards tighteness took me couple of days due to plastic masts very sensitive and load need to be distributed very smooth As soon as it was done I secured them with drop of CA gel oposite and than made free end of laniard turn around and secured...details of location knob and passing those laniard ends well discribed in "The rigging of ships. In the days of the Spritsail topmast 1600-1720 - Anderson" Mouse I've made from piece of liquid steel ,forming a ball shape(not pear shape like on modern vessel) and imitated stitch by knife + painted later on Shrouds top Loops not served ///as I understood in this time they shouldn't be(continent)

Hi Matti, Clear, thanks, making my "galleon rigging report" I was thinking in parallel how to make this "the squared holes" ...I mean ,how would I do that...take some steel rectangular cone end rod , heat it up till yellow color and to burn preliminary drilled hole inserting this rod and than sand paper...but this is just my fantasy How You did it in reality?