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mrcc

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Everything posted by mrcc

  1. More progress to report... My approach to rigging has been to study the plans and add all the details prior to attaching the sails and here I have added the blocks and bridles to the main gaff. For this particular model, I then attached all the running rigging details to the sail and then attach the sails to the respective booms and gaffs, in these pictures, to the main boom and gaff. I always made sure that the running rigging lines had more than enough length to the line to anchor to the blocks on the masts and then let the lines fall so as at a later time (in the next few days) anchor them to the pins and blocks on the deck.
  2. Thanks Popeye... I have been through all your logs and love your work and narrative that you write!
  3. Thanks for all the likes... I also hope everyone had a wonderful Xmas season. I had completed a lot of the present work in early December, but with a week in Mexico and then with Xmas, only now have I had time to post some progress. I had my sails professionally sewn by a seamstress and with the details added to the booms and gaffs, using both resources from my limited Billing Boats plans and then the greater details added from the Model Shipways plans, I think both aesthetically and historically (at least I hope to think so), everything has turned out very well. The fore boom and fore gaff details were done first and then I added the block and bridles to the gaff before lashing the sails to them. I then further prepped the mast so as to do all the blocks and rigging lines before sails were added. And oh yes, all my stays between the foremast and mainmast were done prior to attaching the sail.
  4. More progress... inching ever so closer to hanging the sails. Adding details to the fore gaff, per the Model Shipways plans, by creating / sanding the cleats and gluing to the gaff and then cutting back, sanding and shaping to the final profile.
  5. Thanks Jan-Willem for the archive photo! I forgot about those images on file with the Nova Scotia archives. PS. I did sand them down but have not yet posted the images, and yes they look better. Cheers,
  6. Now that I have posted this and looked at them again... They still may be out of scale
  7. Well I reworked the cleats and they look much better and more to scale on the main boom...
  8. One problem that I see is that when adding cleats to the main boom... they appear out of scale to me. It is one thing when they are in your hand and you are sanding them down from a scratch piece of wood and they look small enough... until they are glued in and in place on the main piece. Is this another redo?
  9. Now my focus is adding all the extra details to the booms and gaffs according to the Model Shipways Plans that have been absolutely invaluable to me for adding all the extra details that make a model more interesting. I might be adding sails in the next week or two...
  10. I also added a few extra details to the masts ie: ringbolts and spring stay bails (that's what the Model Shipways Plans called them anyways). The next item on my agenda was to set the masts... and I noticed lots of debates whether to glue them in or set them with the stays and shrouds alone. The problem for me was that when I made the mast holes and then the mast collars, I noticed lots of sway to the masts and thus went for the glue... I basically just eyeballed it... From the picture, it looks like I was using a heavy duty clamp but in fact was only using it to prevent the mast from leaning to the side. Everything looks good to me...
  11. Seems like I am always good for a posting once a month... and since the last discussion I created my upper (topmast) shrouds going with the 0.75 mm thread from Caldercraft, also using regular cotton thread for the ratlines that is perhaps 0.15 or 0.2 mm in diameter in my estimation. I then compared the look to the previous mast that I had done, and quickly realized the redo was much better.
  12. Thanks Jan-Willem, Bob for the wealth of information... much much appreciated. I will experiment and look again at this as I have to take down want I already put up (topmast shrouds) and look at this issue again with all this new information. With regards to the wire standing rigging, I know the bow details and just a couple of the lines of the lower masts were wire (according to the Billings Boat plans anyways).
  13. Hi Jan-Willem, Rat lines should be the thinnest, at this scale, I believe I have to actually go smaller than what I previously stated, perhaps 0.1 or 0.25 at the largest size.
  14. Thanks so much for your advice Alan, Jan-Willem... I think 0.85mm would look "dead on" per the Model Shipways plans (to my eyes). The Billings Boat kit did not come with black rigging thread and what I bought at Michaels (craft store)was some regular thick black thread that is just to soft and light. The rigging thread from Caldercraft is nice and stiff, perfect in my opinion for this stage of rigging and shroud lines. At the end of the day, you have to go with what looks right and I think I will go with the 1mm shrouds and 0.5mm rat lines.
  15. Thanks Alan for your reply... It is funny as when you look at the rigging with the mast set on the boat, it just looks funny and small to scale, and when you step back a bit and look at it, it almost looks like the shroud lines look "miniscule". I can only imagine that when you put the thinner ratlines on, those lines may completely "disappear"....? Thanks for your input, as this is my first rigging attempt, and I will have to think about this further. Much appreciated!
  16. I presently have some concerns about the scale of standing rigging... I started the topmast shrouds and they definitely don't look right with the thread I used which I would guess to be 0.5mm evident in the photos. I have some Caldercraft 0.75mm and 1.00mm evident in the photos. My inclination is to use the 1.00 mm for the shrouds and 0.5 mm for the rat lines. Any suggestion or thoughts in what thread to use considering the scale of the ship is 1:64? Thanks,
  17. I added extra details this past weekend... I created hull plates from cardboard, drilling small holes in them to simulate bolt holes, glued them to the hull with simple white glue and anchored turnbuckles to them creating some of the standing rigging details of the bowsprit. I used black wire to connect the turnbuckles and I think they turned out quite good but whenever I take close-up pictures, the details don't look quite as good. I blame this on my 51 year old eyes. Sorry, as the last two pictures are a bit dark, and just noticed that after the upload...
  18. Thanks John for the kind remarks.., I certainly enjoyed reviewing your very detailed and comprehensive build log at www.charleswmorganmodel.com Cheers,
  19. Thanks Jan-Willem for the compliments and others for the "likes" of course. I am just taking my time and enjoying every step of this build. Cheers,
  20. This last post shows the very limited progress on the masts in which I have started my first attempts ever of rigging a model period ship. My fingers are a bit fiddly and I can tell already that this part of the build is not going to be fun for me. I think I will skip over the masts for now and work on adding details to the bow section of the ship...
  21. I most recently started worked on setting up the lanyards for placement... This old kit supplied a very simple plate and then a plastic deadeye which I of course decided to replace. In adding details, I went to Michaels and purchased a sewing hook and eye package, and with a simple manipulation of the eye, I was able to wrap it around the deadeye and create a locking pin from a brass pin. I have already touched up the hardware with flat black paint and it looks quite good on the boat.
  22. Finally some progress to report... I built the dories from the kit supplied pieces which were plastic but painted up OK with a few coats of enamel paint. I also built the cradles which were not part of the Billing Boat kit but certainly add nice detail to the model.
  23. You are doing such a fanstastic job! All quite impressive...
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