
Clark
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Great to have you back in the yard. I hope you didn't get the virus too bad. It was certainly an excellent idea to order the blocks from Chuck. As far as I remember, Chuck has a description somewhere of how the blocks can be rounded in a special device. As far as coiling the ropes is concerned, I had first tried to make an eight loop like Delacroix, but there was not enough room. Have fun, Clark
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The masts look really good, especially the zig zag garland. I'm looking forward to seeing your sails. Clark
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Thank you very much. The width of the model including oars is 49 cm, I designed the display case for an internal width of 50.5 cm, I did not want to "consume" too much space, because I also discussed with the admiral longer where to put the display case. As for the placement of the oars, I interpreted the descriptions and the pictures that they were not hidden even with the ship under sail. Thanks for stopping by. Clark
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Thanks! Diameter of the thicker part of the oar blade (dont know if this is the correct name) varied between 4 and 2.4 mm. Sanded them the best I could.
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Next, the oars were prepared. The blanks from Corel had to be sanded and adjusted quite intensively. It might have been easier to make the oars from a strip with a square cross-section. Since later the ship will be visible mainly from the starboard side, I assigned the slightly worse oars to the port side. Also between port and starboard was later differentiated in the simulated attachment of the protective boards (knots/gluing on the keel side of the oars). To fix the rudders better, small pieces of wire (diameter 0.2 mm) were first sunk into the shaft. However, it turned out that these wire pins made adjusting the oars rather difficult. They were therefore subsequently ground off. To adjust the oars on the ship, I made a template that imitated the bend of the ship's side. The distance between the oars was marked. On the outside, the oars were brought to the same distance by a spacer bar. For the showcase I used acrylic glass. The showcase was mounted under a sloping roof. The easier sawing of acrylic glass proved to be advantageous here. Now in the showcase it becomes especially clear what dimensions the ship has. In retrospect, building the ship was a lot of fun even if the material from Corel sometimes left something to be desired.
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Hello Gerard, thank you very much for the detailed answer, which really helped me and removed many uncertainties. I had so far relied on von Mondfeld with his special editions on the galleys and the ships of the Mediterranean. However, he is less informative here than with his other books. Also congratulations on the galleys video (La Fleur de Lis) which helps explain a lot. Clark
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I just saw that an old discussion is being reignited. In this context, I have a question for the experts.In the case of ships from the Mediterranean region (xebecs, galleys), the standing rigging is also modeled light. Is this correct? Clark
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In the last few weeks I have finished the anchors, the flags and the dinghy and attached them to the ship. The problem with the Corel anchors is shown in the previous post. Regarding the exact bearing of the anchors, there was a discussion on safemaster's blog: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/20561-reale-de-france-by-safemaster-heller/page/7/ In the end, Gérard Delacroix convinced me, his video is quite compelling and contradicts Corel's presentation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYxrbtuyNG0. In my opinion the anchor ropes have to be guided tightly. Therefore, they are guided directly into the box. For the flags, movement due to the wind was simulated with highly diluted PVA. For the dinghy, material was also used that came from Chris https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/ships-boats-various-types/. It's not quite contemporary this way, but I liked it better this way. Next I will work on the oars and think about the construction of the display case.
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Rotary tool recommendations, preferences
Clark replied to Steve116's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
IIf you have enough money, you might want to buy a second device that runs on a rechargeable battery. The Dremel inserts can also be used with Proxxon. Conversely, only those with a thick shaft. Have fun Clark -
The "Krick" dregg anchors only had to be slightly deburred. Following von Mondfeld's description, galley anchors were fastened with a special stay. I put the ship aside for the time being, so the anchors are also in stock and will only be attached later. The next thing I want to do is the dinghy.
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Hi Frank, Not only are the anchors bent, but the right one has a depression on the lower blade arm. I ordered new ones from "Krick" (German specialist dealer), they arrived yesterday and look excellent. I had tried to make anchors myself on a previous ship, but it was not successful. How are you doing with the move? Ships secured? All the best Clark
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The main lateen yard is now fixed. The first fixation was again done with two small nails, countersunk in the yard. The ropes for the halyard were fixed before. As they pass through the centre aisle and are attached to the pins of the forecastle, they were mounted before the covering the centre aisle. As there are no sails attached, I fixed the yard slightly eased. Actually, I then wanted to continue with the anchors, but found that they were considerably bent and also inaccurately made. Another point that turns me away from Corel.
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Back at the shipyard after a long time. Our house (wood) was in need of an intensive refreshing and touching up, so the warm months were needed for that. The fore lateen yard is now fixed. I pondered for some time whether to show the sails and decided against it. The lateen sails are quite large and catch the eye. Reefed sails usually look rather fake, my attempts with paper etc. on the previous ships were not quite satisfactory. The attachment to the foremast was done with two small nails (unfortunately no photo taken), so that the rigging was then easier to attach. I partly deviated from the Corel plan with regard to the rigging and the belaying, as some things seemed illogical to me (conflict with the oars).
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Thank you very much for the quick reply. It is more than understandable that you want to be on the safe side. I will exercise patience then. Good luck and success to you and James with the wonderful model. Clark
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Is it already possible to send an advance order? Clark
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Good idea not to fix the guns, it will pay off at the latest when the shrouds are fixed, own experience. Clark
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Hi Frank, glad you are back. Looks great. You are right not to fix the pots at this stage. I had to remove the ones in my build since they as they trembled dangerously when the ship was moved. Clark
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Hi Michael, I am also following your blog. It is a different approach. I especially like that you show the sails secured. When I get to that point, I'll ask a few more questions on your blog. I assume, however, that you are then finished with your Reale. Continue to have fun Clark
- 112 replies
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Main mast was prepared and fixed similarly to the foremast. A little bit surprising for me, backstays have to be fixed at the first chains/toggles (seen from the bow) when following the description of corel. I followed it. The fifth chains/toggles are still left free for the later attachment of the rack lines. Clark
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Swann Morton chisel blades.
Clark replied to harlequin's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Sharpening works quite well when using the sandpaper tools delivered by proxxon. I got both needles and blades sharp enough . There is also a rotating sharpening stone available by proxxon I usually start with the blades. Clark
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