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mtdoramike

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Everything posted by mtdoramike

  1. Hey Ian, I did the same thing on my Vic and lined the Gun Ports then sanded the hull down which made the gun port linings disappear. So I had to go back, rip the linings out, paint the lining planks red BEFORE I installed them the second time, which made a huge difference. That was about a weeks of added worth of work to fix that issue. I had to step back for a few days before I fixed. I hate having to do something twice. mike
  2. One side of the chain plates are done. I don't think I have ever built a ship model with as many dead eyes as this particular ship model has.
  3. Hello Les, I think your problem is the other kits are calling to you. I try and not have any other kits around while I'm building a specific model. This keeps me focused on the project at hand rather than looking at future projects thinking they might be easier or I just need a break. The problem is when you take a break, that same project will be waiting for you and you will start feeling guilty for not buckling down and finishing it. This forum is full of models that were started with good intentions, put aside for various reasons, but the main reason is usually lost interest if the builder is honest about it. I have to say here that after close to 20 years of building models and 30 or so ship models that I finished, I don't have a single model laying around that I didn't finish. No brag just fact. Now, yes, I too have those days where I don't really want to mess with the model and even weeks. But I try and push myself to spend a minimum of an hour a day on the model even if it's just to research the build. Like today for instance, I went into my work room, attached a couple of pieces to the model, only to realize that I did it wrong and had to straighten it out. That is when I called it quits for the day. But the two days before, I spent most of both days on the model. I have bought soooooo many models from friends, ebay, forums and Craigslist where they were started with good intentions but the builder fell short and didn't finish them. Some I was glad they didn't finish because the work was so bad, others I couldn't understand how someone with such a gift for modeling couldn't stay focused long enough to finish the project. mike
  4. Isn't this a beautiful piece of wood. I dust the display board off every now and then and spend probably 15 minutes just admiring the beauty in the wood. I might have spent close to $40.00 for that piece of wood, but it was well worth the price. mike
  5. I'm currently working on the chain plates. I wrap the deadeyes in brass wire and then twist it. I then slip it into the hole in the chain plate board, cut it off and then bend the end up into a hook. Then I take one of the long length eye bolts that I found some time ago at Hobby Lobby and hook it into the fashioned hook on the deadeye. I then cut eye bolt to length bend it, drill a small hole into the hull and slid the end of the eye bolt into the figure 8 fastener and then into the hull with a spot of glue. I then nail the bottom of the figure 8 fastener. It seems to give me the best and cleanest finish as far as the chain plates go. mike
  6. Well, I have decided to sell the Chris Craft Commander once it is completed. It will come ready to run with all equipment from battery/charger, radio and ready to go. So if any interest in this model, pm me. It's not something I'm really interested in and my son in law feels it's a might more than he would be interested in as well. mike
  7. hahahahahahaha, my wife accuses me of that old the time, I call it selective memory and hearing But I'm going to do the same thing with the plating kit. mike
  8. Yeah, I was planning on Mack's for the motors and props. I had already bought the running hardware by Dumas and then I saw Mack had their own running hardware setup for the Commander that is supposed to be better than Dumas setup. mike
  9. I located and purchased the running hardware for the Chris Craft Commander. I hope to have everything I need before beginning on the build in March. The cost of the running hardware alone was $70.00 shipped from Omni Models. Now, I'm trying to decide whether or not to use nicd/nimh batteries or opt for lipos. I really like the lipo batteries in the RC planes I flew, but this is for my son in law and my grand son. Lipos give longer run times, more power and longer storage charge, but nimh batteries are less volatile, less worry with storage. I will be running twin 550 can brushed motors in it. So I'm on the fence on the battery setup. mike
  10. hahahahahaha yeah and I was staring at that bugger for a while. It's not as good as my bench top 36 inch belt/disk sander was, but it does the trick in a pinch for sure. I've had that old work mate for about 40 years. It's not like the newer ones, this one weighs a ton and not that cheap metal ones they sell today. mike
  11. I'm continuing to go up with the mast. Here is my make shift sander that I use while making the mast and spars. I used this setup on the Victory as well since I sold most of my modeling tools several years ago when I got out of the hobby for a while. Yep, it's a Craftsman belt sander clamped upside down to my old Black and Decker workmate. mike
  12. I got a little more work done on the mast. They are not installed as yet, but getting there. mike
  13. I have not started the build of the Commander as yet, I'm still working on my current project and probably will not be finished with that until March. But I am how ever buying all the needed Radio control gear when I can pick it up at a good deal. I have the transmitter with two receives, just picked up a battery charger and a couple of servos. Here is a list of needed equipment: Transmitter & receiver (got them) Battery charger (got them) Two servos (got them) Battery (lipo) Two motors running hardware kit Reversing speed control (preferring electronic over manual) Now if all of this equipment was purchased normally, it would run about $600.00. Running hardware kit is about $80.00, not to mention the motors, which about $120.00 for brushed, if brushless then the price goes up, the reversing speed controller is another $50.00. I figure all total I will have close to a Thousand dollars invested in her, which I think I will name her the MONEY PIT! I starting to believe in the old adage "The two best days in a mans life is when he buys a boat and when he sells it." mike
  14. I spent a few hours on the Monte today and got quite a bit of work done on the Foremast and the Bowsprit. mike
  15. hahahahaha, yep Mark it sure is and at 49 inches long with that bowsprit sticking out so far it will be a challenge just to keep from breaking it off. mike
  16. Been working on the bowsprit. Yep, that is a piece of wire holding them together until I can get it adjusted properly and glued down then lashed with twine. mike
  17. While cutting out the hole for the bowsprit, I got a bit carried away with the rotary tool. But no big deal, I'll just cut out a (what I call a yoke or collar) to cover up the boo boo.
  18. I have gotten the bowsprit and masts pretty much lined up after drilling out the holes with a 3/8" spade drill bit. some of the walnut dowels have a few curves in them but not as bad as a snake. I think I will be able to use them after cutting off the worst parts of the masts, which I'm glad because I wanted to be able to leave them natural wood color. mike
  19. hahahahahaha, You are right Don, the rudder was one of the hardest things that I had to do on this ship model. Fortunately, I have done so many of them, I knew enough to know that it was going to be a little tough. So I waited about as long as I could. Getting the rudder sanded down, plated and installed along with the chain was about a 6 hour day. Now on with the masts and then the rigging. I will start with the Bow sprit. For the actual masts, I use a building board, which I mount the mast to in order to build it from the bottom to the top. I then hang a plumb bob from the ceiling of my building room where I have a hook installed that when the time comes to install the pre-made masts, I place the ship model on the floor which is perfectly flat. I then install the mast using the plumb bob as a guide to get them straight and even with each other. mike
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