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Jack12477

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Everything posted by Jack12477

  1. I've used it a lot but only in the 3/8 and 1/2 inch thicknesses. Works fine for jigs and portable work tables for me. Haven't used it for model keels or bulkheads tho.
  2. Since you are talking about Herreshoff designed boats, are you aware of his Ice Yacht Slipper? The only ice yacht (boat) he designed. I had the pleasure of seeing it under sail on the Hudson River in March 2014. I have pictures if you want me to post them. Also Wooden Boat magazine did an article complete with plans on it in their January/February 2005, Number 182 edition. The tiller/rudder is unique in that it has a sprocket and chain drive. It is presently owned by someone in CT.
  3. Bob, in addition to the color scheme, all USCG boats 65 feet or longer are called Cutters and given a name as well as a hull number. Boats less than 65 feet in length are just given a hull number and the first two digits of the number give you the hull length, e.g. 44nnn is a 44 ft, 36nnn is a 36 ft, etc. Starting in WW II all Coast Guard cutters were designed with the letter W followed by a alphanumeric scheme to distinguish them from US Navy vessels. This applies to both black hull and white hull boats. Some of the newer special purpose boats have orange hulls but these are generally less than 30 ft boats, example, the Rigid Hull Inflatables used for harbor security and similar functions. Hope this helps
  4. Bob, according to my friends at our local USCG station, today's color scheme is black hull with white cabin for "working" boats, e.g. tugs, buoy tenders, ice breakers, etc and white hull with white cabin for Search & Rescue (SAR) and Law Enforcement boat. The Polar Ice Breakers are a red hull.
  5. Grant, start here and follow down thru Michael Mott's post. This might work with the channel's you've already made, which by the way look fantastic.
  6. Okay I understand. It's like a boarding ladder (échelle d'embarquement). I may add one to my model.
  7. Thanks for explanation. In the photo below what is the beam (red arrow) used for? Dans la photo ci-dessous ce qui est le faisceau (flèche rouge) utilisé?
  8. Ofencer29350: Thanks for the photos - those are very impressive models. I notice that only some of the sails are colored. Is there a "pattern"/standard for which sail(s) are colored and which are white or natural. Also in the next to last photo above there is a black/ochre colored square beam with triagular "steps" (??) laying on the deck next to the rack. What is that beam used for?
  9. Update: Thanks Mobbsie, David and Michael for the advice and especially Michael for the photos. Don't have quite the narrow brass bands shown in Michael's photos but do have some 24 gauge and 26 gauge brass wire I can use as a starter. I used the heavier gauge wire to simulate the bolt(s) and the thinner for the strop. Bending the loop in the strop was done with a jewelry making pliers I picked up in one of the craft stores. The chainplate on the left in the photo below needs a little adjustment and all need a little cleanup with a Dremel or something. I used medium CA to cement them in place (haven't gotten a chance to practice soldering yet so I didn't want to risk it on this piece). First attempt: Current progress - nothing is glued down, just set in place to gauge overall appearance.
  10. Thanks, Michael. A picture is invaluable. Yes that may work for me.The deadeye on mine is 3.5 mm so I may have to find some thinner brass but I see how it works now. Thanks again.
  11. George, Mobbsie, Thanks ! George, yes the original is not much clearer than the scanned copy I posted - the detail is unreadable. Mobbsie, I think your solution will work. I've probably been over thinking it.
  12. Update: I've run into a small snag on the build. The only instructions on the chain plates is the following photo; the plans do not show how the deadeye and chain plate are attached to each other, they only show placement of the chain plate/deadeye on the model. The parts list calls for a 0.3mm thick x 2 mm wide x 20 mm long piece of flat brass (part 50) and a 3.5 mm deadeye (part 51). I tried putting a loop in one end of the brass plate but still can't figure out how to attach the deadeye. Photo of picture book instructions: The "detail" [if you can call it that] is in the small inset at the top of the larger photo. [ignore the strike outs that just my way of keeping track of what's been installed] My interpretation: Any suggestions ?
  13. Thanks, Ken I have the larger Xacto one also. The mini came from MicroMark http://www.micromark.com/micro-miter-box,11565.html Buy the saw and blades separately. The blade is a double edge razor blade cut with micro-fine saw teeth.which cut with little effort. But if you get one, make yourself a small jig to hold it.
  14. Small progress: Constructed the rack to hold the small boat. Was really glad I had the miniature miter box (shown in previous post) for this step. It made the job of repetitively cutting the leg brace elements very easy. Photos follow:
  15. Welcome to the party Mobbsie. Pepsi is fine - I tend to drive them also (perhaps too much).
  16. Captgino, Greg (Burroak) Thanks. Ofencer29350, thanks for the info. The kit plans call for the boat (challoupe) to be mounted above the deck on an overhead rack which I have not constructed as yet. Since this boat is metal and weighs about 3 oz (or about 82g) I think hanging it off the stern would make balancing the model on its stand a little difficult, centering it above the deck and over the keel would probably make for a better center of gravity for the finished model.
  17. Hi Mobbsie, just discovered your build log. Think I will pull up a stool or barrel and join the others. Looks like an interesting launch.
  18. Congratulations Dan on completing her. She's a magnificent model. Glad I got the opportunity to see it up close at NRG Mystic.
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