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Jack12477

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Everything posted by Jack12477

  1. Jack12477
    Hi Ken, pulling up a seat to watch also. Great start on the "little boats"
  2. Jack12477
    Congratulations, Brian ! Well deserved.
  3. Jack12477
    Magnificent !
  4. Jack12477
    belly, bowels
  5. Jack12477
    Last post from me on subject: Here's the bench dog/stop I made and use for holding piece being carved. The V slot acts as a stop. There is no 90 degree corner so the wood chips don't accumulate in the corner. It's made of 1/2 inch birch plywood with maple for the rest. By "last post" I mean I have nothing more to post; but if anyone has questions fire away I will do my best to answer them;
  6. Jack12477
    Likewise from me ! Happy Birthday Augie. And a speedy recovery from your health issues
  7. Jack12477
    In the carving classes our experienced carvers give to newcomers, they teach that you should carve from your wrist not your forearm (elbow to wrist) or arm (shoulder to wrist) - using the full power of your arm or forearm to power the blade thru the wood can result in injuries and loss of control. But using only the power in your wrist to power the blade gives more control over the cut. If you have to use the forearm or arm then as Druxey pointed out above, make sure you are cutting away from the body and that no one is standing in front or alongside of you. For even more control, use the power in your fingers (i.e grip) to pull the blade thru the wood, but make sure you wear a thumb guard and know where the thumb is in relation to the blade. And keep the blades razor sharp - a dull blade causes more injuries than a sharp one - and I know that sounds like an oxymoron but it is not.
  8. Jack12477
    Druxey, it seems that all of the experienced (> 20 years) carvers in my woodcarving club including me violate your rule #2 as well as rule #3. Most of them are doing figure carving, i.e. caricatures. Me ! I wear a leather thumb guard on the hand that's holding the knife and a cut resistant glove on the other hand. But we keep the thumb on the underside of the wood carving well away from the blade. Jazzchip, one thing I forgot to mention is that all my carving knives have a plastic tube covering the exposed blade and all the chisel.gouge tips are wrapped in a piece of soft cloth or are stuffed into a plastic tube. This is more to protect the blades from chipping (devil of a time to regrind one) but it has the added side effect of protecting hands from cuts. You can buy the plastic tubing in Lowes/Home Depot in different diameters and cut it to length - look in plumbing On another note: Old wine corks (either the real McCoy or the fake plasticy ones) make a good guard for both gouges and knife tips. Just plunge the blade/gouge into the cork. It doesn't dull the blade. All of my woodcarving buddies use them. Some photos to demonstrate: The gouges are stored in the leather roll on left - knifes are in cork or plastic tubes - Gouges Finger guards (long one is for index finger - short one for thumb)
  9. Jack12477
    I used very thin brass wire inserted into the bottom seam of the sail and clipped to the bolt rope loop (hidden) to form the sail. See example in Completed Model Gallery for example of the effect.
  10. Jack12477
    Mine (knives and chisel/gouges) are in leather roll wraps which I keep out of sight where the children/grandchildren can't see them - also out of reach as well - but not under any kind of lock. I think it depends on the child's age - older children can be taught to respect sharp tools and not play with them - it's the toddlers I worry about. Out of sight and out of reach seems to be a good safety rule. Also mine are all kept in the basement which the kids only go to when an adult is there to supervise.
  11. Jack12477
    I have a cut resistant glove like the one in GUNTHERMT's post above. I wear it mostly for woodcarving and not so much for model shipbuilding. I wear it on the hand that is holding the carving I'm working on. When using the chisels/gouges I use a bench dog and place the carving on the bench dog/bench stop, likewise when I am using the chisels on ship parts. The only drawback to the glove is they don't protect against puncture type wounds, but do provide good protection from slash type wounds. Protective eye wear is a must around any "spinning" type tool.
  12. Jack12477
    Brian, great job on the ship - outstanding model - Photography is outstanding also.
  13. Jack12477
    Actually the Veritas planes and chisels are ready to go right out of the box. All they need is an occasional strop on a piece of leather. I have yet to put them to a "stone".
  14. Jack12477
    I have the same set of planes plus the chisel set from Veritas/Lee Valley and am very satisfied with their performance. I use them all the time
  15. Jack12477
    NO , don't use these - they require an air compressor to deliver between 40-80 PSI. Use one of the one's recommended by CANUTE or CHBORGM.
  16. Jack12477
    Beautiful job, Ken.
  17. Jack12477
    Pulling up a barrel to watch.
  18. Jack12477
    Ouch ! I had to do that some years back on a car with a lot less mileage than 100,000 Km. Not fun ! Hope yours is repair quickly.
  19. Jack12477
    Nenad, what failed? The transmission ? Clutch ??? I don't recognize the parts in picture.
  20. Jack12477
    I have the Sjoberg Hobby Bench, comes in two sizes 3 ft and 5 ft - I have the small version (3 ft) - it's perfect for a small bench (den, apartment, etc). It's standard height like their full size benches, has side and tail vise. When I got mine it was under $250, but I have not seen mine advertized in about a year now - only the larger model 5 ft - but that would work also for a small area. It's relatively light weight (for moving around) but very sturdy for working. You might want to check with WoodCraft and see if they still carry it. (It has gone up in price since I bought mine).
  21. Jack12477
    Have you considered the Sjoberg Smart Vise? Here's a link to HomeDepot's ad http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sjobergs-Smart-Vise-14-in-x-14-in-Portable-Work-Surface-SJO-33274/203979255?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-D25T-HandTools|&gclid=CNzouObb4sgCFYIYHwodumkPUQ&gclsrc=aw.ds It's gone up in price since I first saw it - was $100 now about $140. WoodCraft carried them when I saw them - there's a Woodcraft store in New Castle DE that I usually hit on my way to MD to visit granddaughter. It's at Shoppes of New Castle 166 South Dupont Highway, Suite H New Castle, DE 19720
  22. Jack12477
    Sorry to hear you are laid up - hoping for a speedy recovery.
  23. Jack12477
    Ryland has posted many of the same photos I took so I won't duplicate his. As an ice boater I was pleasantly surprised to find three ice boats in the Seaport's collection of small craft. One is shown in Ryland's post #44 photo #3 above. I have some additional photos of it below: It's type and origin are unknown to the Seaport staff (and to me also). The Seaport staffer shown in the picture asked if my ice club members could help identify it; he took my name and email address and promised to send me some additional photos but I neglected to get his name - so if anyone recognizes him please send me a PM with his name and email address if possible. At any rate the ice boat is all metal with some very strange parts. The Seaport does have all the gear for it. The other two ice boats were a skeeter from the Great South Bay of Long Island (Sound) shown below: (one actually sailing on Hudson River in Feb 2014) and an X-Class ice yacht Polaris from the 1940's which, according to the documentation on the beam next to it, was built and sailed on Greenwood Lake NJ around 1948. It's shown below Also hidden away in the second wharehouse was an all wood hull Sailfish by Alcort circa 1960 with an Alcort fiberglass hull Sunfish just behind it (My wife still has her 1966 Alcort fiberglass hull Sailfish)
  24. Jack12477
    This was my first NRG Conference. Had a great time ! Speakers were fantastic. Enjoyed meeting many of you in person. Seeing the models up close was very impressive.
  25. Jack12477
    Might work. Try photographing it in natural (aka sun) light - preferably in shade area under a clear sky to get the truest color.

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