Jack12477
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Everything posted by Jack12477
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Makes it look like it's sitting on a beach sand dune awaiting the crews return. Nicely done, Per.- 335 replies
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- 18th century longboat
- Finished
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Tom, I think those "tassles" you refer to are called "reefing lines" use to reduce the total area of a sail.
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- constellation
- artesania latina
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Grant, at least you didn't fall off the earth hanging upside down :D
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- bomb ketch
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Model expo sells sheets of flags both US and British - see http://www.modelexpo-online.com/search.asp
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I echo everyone's sentiments also Dave. Great decoy - great workmanship.
- 209 replies
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- Syren Ship Model Company
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It may look similar to AL's Swift but it's not - I have built both models by AL and the hulls and decks are different. Can't speak to historical accuracy tho. I just built them because I liked their appearance and they were a moderate challenge.
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I've not used the water-stone yet but plan to get one sometime in future. And, yes, I forgot to mention that I use a leather strop with a white chalk-like "pumis" (for lack of a better name) which I dust onto the leather.
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Carl, it's cheaper to keep them razor sharp - these tools in US retail starting at $45-$55 and upwards per chisel. Kitchen steel will ruin one of these chisel. Rather we use either a ceramic stone (new type) or the older style Arkansas stone. The ceramic stones do not need a lubricant like the Arkansas stones do and the sharpen a lot faster. I've used both and prefer the ceramic for my carving tools; I use the Arkansas for other knives (e.g. pocket knife). Druxey: The other brand, which I do not have (yet), that is as sharp as Pfeil with same quality is Two Cherries brand.
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Have not had to do that to mine yet. Just stropping it (carefully) has kept the edge sharp. You have to strop each side individually just like you would a V-gouge. Before I start carving I strop any knife/gouge first then after about 10-20 minutes of carving I stop and re-strop them before continuing. That pretty much keeps the edge razor sharp (at least for me). To re-sharpen it I would image you would start with the flat bottom, sharpen it on a stone, then do each side holding the side flat to the stone, then use a small square stone to sharpen the inside edge. I would not try to use a belt sander on this one. Some of my woodcarving mates use small belt sanders to do their knives and gouges even V-gouges. I would do this one by hand on a very flat stone probably one of my ceramic stones. It does do a nice job of cutting a squared bottom / side tho and without a lot of effort. The Pfeil brand chisels come razor sharp and honed right out of the box so they are ready to use immediately.
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Robb, sorry to hear about the loss of your dog. I've lost a few myself. They are family.
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- scottish maid
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Mark, you could also use a Macaroni chisel (yes, there is such a chisel and it's not made from semolina ). Pfeil makes them down to 4 mm in width. Some other brands may go as small as 2 mm. It has a square shape and cuts on three sides. Looks like picture below. Would be far easier than trying to program the laser. BTW I have two of these chisels. Looks great as is tho. Nice job.
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Jeff, really nice job. Like the roof shingles. Your daughter will love it.
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I avoid CA and use it only as a last resort. I use either white school glue or dilute PVA (yellow) glue for all lines, ropes, etc. and then only a drop or two. I have a friend who insists on using the runniest CA on the market when tying his ratlines and he doesn't care how much runs down the shroud(s) as he works his way up to the trestle-trees. By the time he gets finished the shrouds and ratlines are as stiff as steel gable. Can't convince him to stop; but then it's his ship ..........................
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Dave, I like the Tar Heel blue stern. Came out nice. Is the rest of the hull bottom white or a very light shade of blue? Can't tell for sure from photos. Bamboo looks great also. Nice job.
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Rick, I understand what you mean about using weathering to bring out or enhance small detail, example small rivets, etc. Unfortunately I do not have any nautical examples to show you. The weathered sails Steve posted above is an excellent example of weathering to make sails look aged (in fact his scale sails closely resemble the 1:1 scale 100 year old sails on some of our clubs ice yachts). I would study his results to pick up the technique. The only example I have at the moment of weathering something other than small detail is this photo of an N-scale rotary snow plow. The weathering was done using Floquil grimy black. It was done using the technique I described in my earlier post. I may have some other examples tucked away in storage boxes, if I can locate them I will post pictures here. I agree Tamiya makes excellent paints. If you can find the original Floquil or PolyS brands of paints they also have an excellent selection of weathering colors. Unfortunately they are no longer being manufactured - as far as I can tell. I have not tried any of the newer brands that have come on the market in recent years. Weathering a ship's deck would be interesting to do. I've never tried it only because I preferred pristine ship models. Weathering the effects of water spilling down the side of a ship from the scuppers and/or bilge pumps would be interesting to do also. Paste chalks and/or charcoal sticks would make some interesting grime effects. You've brought up an interesting topic, thanks for doing so.
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Steve, fantastic job on the sails. They do look well weathered. Rick, you pretty much described the technique in your post but I'll try to elaborate a little more on it. The method I use is to dip only the very tip of the brush in a small amount of paint, then "paint" a paper towel with a back and forth stroke until the paint is almost gone (like maybe 98-99%), then brush it on the surface I want to "weather". (Don't wipe the brush with a cloth or paper towel as if you are trying to clean it.) If there is not enough paint left on the brush to leave a "streak" on the surface, then repeat the process leaving a tiny bit more paint on the brush. It's a trial and error process until you get the feel for it. Practice on any flat surface you don't care about until you get the hang of it. Use short strokes, don't try to cover a long area at once, use repetitive short strokes to basically streak the area. I generally use a flat brush rather than a pointed tip brush. Another technique is to get some artists pastel chalks and/or charcoal sticks. Using a knife scrape the chalk/charcoal to get a small amount of "dust" on a piece of paper, then using a very clean dry brush, pick up some of the dust and either wipe in on or just place it down on the surface (latter makes it look like accumulated "dust/dirt/grunge"). Once you have the look you want use an artists fixative to permanently set it in place (hold the spray can well back so the air blast doesn't blow the dust off - you just want to mist the fixative over the piece). Hope this helps explain it.
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Hi Jeff, I echo Mark's thoughts - sorry to hear about the pacemaker - The dollhouse looks fantastic, your daughter will love it. I will keep your wife in my thoughts and prayers also. Hang in there.
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Great news Jeff. Glad she is up and walking around. Hope the hospital stay is a short one.
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Will do! Hope all goes well !
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I second what Mark said above. Mine is no work of art but even at 9 years of age my granddaughter still asks me to bring it out of storage for her to play with and this was her mother's and aunt's doll house. I might add that this doll house is about 35 years old give or take. Yours looks great. Stay the course. She will love it.
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