Jack12477

I got credited for a post  @ships88 made to his own build log even tho I have never visited his log.

Do a search on YouTube, there are a number of videos on making water for dioramas.  Woodland Scenics has produced some as have a number of modelers.

Plays on my Android tablet okay, after it downloads.   Very nice work, Greg.

59 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

former Marines 

 

Didn't think those existed. I thought it was "once a  Marine always a Marine"  😇  Semper Fi ! 

21 hours ago, rock harris said:

I would like to follow this one

Welcome to the build. Pull up a barrel, I think Mark restocked the popcorn machine. 

Absolutely outstanding diorama,  Gary.  👍👍👍👍👍 

1 hour ago, Clueless said:

What size should I consider for turning square pcs. into round masts? Probably never use it on metal, but nice to know I can if the opportunity arises.

You could try this Guy's method using a chisel and electric drill

You can also buy 36 inch lengths of HO flexible track and sections of cork roadbed instead of individual pieces of track. There are also electric power clip you can clip onto the track from under the ties to provide electric power.  As Ken says check out your LHS for advice and sources.  That engine wants a wide radius curve, flex track may be a better choice that fixed radius sectional track for getting and acceptable curve. 

Walthers in Milwaukee is a great source for Model Railroad stuff, I think they still print a hardcopy catalog which you can order, or use their online catalog. They've been a major supplier for decades.

I was doing some Christmas ornament woodcarvings and decided to try out the new  Veritas workbench table. Holding these small carvings has always presented a challenge but the workbench provided a nice secure work surface.  Those are Dockside 2mm micro gouges in the picture.

I agree with what others have said above, especially Egilman's comment. I've really enjoyed following along. Great workmanship ! 

Looks a lot smoother and neater than my hulls. Nice job! 

I agree too. Weathering looks great. 

I only have metal files, no diamond files. For the PE I just used a strip of 400-600 grit Emery paper glued to a Popsicle stick to smooth rough edges.

@John Allen you might want to order their Small Cut-Off set to go with the Bug. It's a 8x10 sheet of plexiglass and acrylic holder. Works very well for cutting PE loose from sheet and the holder keeps it from flying off into never-never land

I just use the plastic/acrylic holder they make and a single sided razor blade like the one in their photo.

John, I recommend The Bug  Hold and Fold by The Small Shop, inexpensive,, easy to use,, works well with PE brass.  I have one and used it a lot.

Thanks Glenn, Derek, great information. I will dig out my Kell guide and try again.  

Derek, what dimensions do you suggest for the plate glass station ? Besides the 1/4 inch thickness.  

Mike @Landlubber Mike here's a couple of videos on stropping which explain it better than I can. You can buy a ready made strop and/or the leather to make your own from Woodcraft.  I got mine in their Newcastle DE store, but I notice there are 3 in your general area.  

The stropping myth and how to sharpen tools with leather

How to make a strop by Paul Sellars

I will give you a qualified YES but defer to Derek @DelF . When I bought the Kell guide it was for my full size chisels and it worked well with them. But for the Veritas mini chisels I had a lot of trouble getting the bevel angle correct, so I bought the Veritas mini guide for them since it came with a bevel setting jig. After reading Derek's post above I will revisit using the Kell guide, especially since I can use the Veritas angle jig to help set the angle.

I did find the Kell guide easy to use.

I should also add that I strop my knives and chisels before, during,  and after use, so I don't need to  sharpen them with a stone that often. Stropping keeps them pretty sharp. There are a number of videos on YouTube on stropping. Master woodcarver Harley Refsal has a pretty good one on stropping a woodcarving knife but the technique applies to any blade. 

1 hour ago, mtaylor said:

The plane is still looking good.   As for fireworks... what's the occasion?   

Guy Fawkes Day, British observance, celebrated on November 5, commemorating the failure of the Gunpowder Plot of 1605

I have Richard's honing guide. Bought it several years ago thru Garrett Wade catalog. Don't know know if they still carry it. I have used it on some of my other chisels. Thanks for the link. 

👍👍👍👍

My table and accessories have arrived.  I was asked in PMs from a couple of members to do a review once I received the order from Lee Valley. Haven't had much time to really test it out but my first impressions follow:

The table is impressive and well made.  It's laminated Birch plywood, 12 plys, 5/8 inch thick, 4 rubber feet measuring 5/8 inch high are attache d with screws to the underside, overall table is 8 inches wide by 11 inch long, holes are 7/16 inch diameter spaced 1-1/2 inch apart in each x-y direction, rows indent approximately 1 inch from each edge. I checked the mini vice and there is not enough clearance under the table to install it.  You would have to remove the rubber feet and make new legs.

Footnote: After re-reading the instructions for the mini vice it appears to require a bench top thickness of 1-1/4 inches. This table top is only 5/8 inches thick, so some modifications would be needed.

The accessories are tiny but well made as would be expected of Lee Valley. I would recommend storing them is some type of parts drawer or box so they don't get lost on the workbench.

The packages.

Unpacked

Some test setups

Using the miniature block plane

Using the miniature Plow Plane

Level up Jack Plane

Using my ceramic sharpening stone and the miniature honing guide to sharpen one of the miniature chisels

I didn't do a lot of setup work or try to do any serious work, just some quick tests with a couple of planes.    It sat pretty flat on my work bench and didn't move around when I was planing but if I was doing something more strenuous it might need clamping to the bench to keep it from sliding around.  The rubber feet could be removed and longer legs attached to give it more height of the work bench/table.

All in all I think it is a worthwhile investment, especially for those with a small workshop and workbench.  I didn't order the hold down accessory because I didn't think I would need it but I may reconsider that decision.  As I use it more I will post updates and/or suggestions.

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

 I am far from being qualified to explain proper technique.

Chuck, I've found these videos on sharpening and stropping helpful.  Once you have the chisel sharpened,  then stropping before each use, and during use, should keep it sharp. You should not have to,put it to a stone everytime.  I use this technique for my woodcarving knives.  Also use a good stropping compound,  usually comes as wax stick, green is finest grit.   

Sharpening

Stropping