Jack12477

Nice work on the dead eyes and chain plates. As far as the brass fixture,  my best guess would be probably a compass.

Hi Mark
 
What a beauty! I especially love the hull when viewed from the stern quarter in the last photo.
 
Good luck with the laser cutting as that'll definitely make life easier in the long run.
 
All the best!
 
Patrick

Here's how I did it. Cut all the fore faces then the rear ones. Just used a push stick.
 





 
 
 

I agree with George, Mark. Looking very good !

I agree with George, Mark. Looking very good !

"Sucuri" problems again. Then not. Then again, Then not. Then hit me out. Then not. Then freeze everything, or slowed to death
 
Is it really necessary to have such a strong firewall ?
 
Ok, time to continue with whiskers  catheads ( satisfied, Mark ?) -  if I have success with uploading pictures and posting - two photos were rejected from unknown reason ...
 
First careful drilling holes in foredeck bulwarks, and thinned inner part of whiskers  catheads  to get visual proportion. I think in real ship, they are a half and more of their width under deck, so considering I do not want to digg  on deck, I have to thin them
 

 

 

 

 
Not bad
 
Comparing pictures from old CS and today, there is a little difference in colors - today, ends are painted white. Anybodu knows reason ?
 

 
And I was clever and painted whiskers all black after making, so sanding starts
 
And thin thin thin paintbrush
 
And here we are. Not glued jet, because first I have to drill a little holes and make this nice fragile shackle , then to glue, and after that to mount shackle. Dont forget Nenad to make a cat carving on top, and a little ring there !!!!!
 

 
 
And then my regular brain worm appears, and started turning me on devil`s side, to make one sweet detail
 

 
And here is simulation of it. Not enough skill to make this on body of whiskers  catheads  which is only 3.5 mm wide
 

 
Obviously I have to play in Photoshop to paint my eyes blue and to change my avatar

Just got on the site myself Nenad. It seems Sucuri wouldn't let me post or even get in either for 2 or 3 hours.  Nice work on those catheads. 

Some proof of life and work in progress....
 
I think I'm getting the hang of this.... I've planked both sides with required wide wale planks.  The port side has been sanded but not finish sanded.. pretty rough sanded if you ask me, but it's ready for the narrow hull planks to be laid down.  I need to sand the starboard side which should commence this afternoon... I hope.
 
The stern/transom area I think I have sorted out.  There's a covering piece needed and the fashion piece along the counter to the transom as well as the covering board where the transom meets the counter.  These will be finished once the planking is complete but before final sanding....
 
The planks look a bit damp as I've wiped them down with some water to clear off most of the sanding dust and also to help raise the grain a tad.  I've got a couple of pesky dings that need to be addressed and this is the logical (to my mind) starting point for that process. 
 



 
As always, clicking on the photos will enlarge them and comments and advice are welcome.
 
On a side-note, I'm also developing drawings for the laser cutter to produce all the carving blanks, windows, gun carriages, carved railings, and assorted fiddly bits like the ship's boats.   Some of this stuff is just too darn tiny to cut on a scroll saw.. or I need new eyes. 

Thanks for the input, but I serendipitously obtained my answer from a completely unexpected source yesterday.
 
Last week, I began a series of inquiries with the San Francisco Maritime National Historic Park (one of the parks under the auspices of the National Park System, or NPS) which houses the stern of the Galilee as an outside exhibit at Fort Mason. In the process of asking about the feasibility of having someone from the local modeler's group do some direct measurements on the stern (there wasn't), NPS informed me that they were finalizing the production of a file of Galilee for entry into the Historic American Engineering Record (HAER) maintained by NPS. The engineer involved sent me draft copies of all the plans he is developing of the stern as well as a full history of the vessel from construction to present. This was truly a windfall of information. One key drawing is an elevation cross-section of the stern, which clearly shows the main deck extending to the transom, as well as the poop deck above it. The narrow space between the decks was used as a lazarette. The main deck also had a hatch to the lower afterpeak area above the keel.
 
So this is another piece of data to aid in reconstructing the vessel. Even though the main cabin no longer exists, it's pretty clear it rested on the main deck as with the C.A. Thayer. The poop deck was provided only to elevate the steering station so the helmsman could see over the cabin and to make main spar sheet tackle more accessible.
 
Terry
 
P.S. Since the NPS drawings are only drafts, I felt it would be inappropriate to post them here until they are publicly released.

Awesome George, thanks for the input! Funny you mentioned Jason's store, I searched online for walnut planks for ship modeling and voila his site came up. If/when I go down this path again I think I'll use his wood - looks to be way better than the kit supplied materials.
 
I feel like all I'm doing is plagiarizing Jesse's build. Every time I look into options I can see how he came to his decisions. Hope you don't mind Jesse!

Thank you all for the comments and likes.  Let me try to address the points raised.
 
First, the method was developed to provide a learning experience erecting hull frames as is done on  upright full framed models - like Naiad, Young America and others - but with simpler bulkhead construction. I view this as an early step on the full framed learning curve for beginning scratchbuilders that want to try those more advanced models at some point - but want to work up to it.  Frame alignment - in my experience - is one of the main challenges in full framed upright modeling.  For this reason these methods and this model will be included in the forthcoming Young America book.  Having said that, I believe this is, on its own merits, a very good way to construct a very accurate, strong (very strong) POB hull.
 
To answer your concern, Mike.  Shrinkage is not an issue if seasoned wood - ideally sugar pine - is used for the spacers.  First, the aircraft grade plywood bulkheads are very stable.  The large glue surface between the pacers and the plywood very effectively resists shear stresses that might lead to twisting.  Differential shrinkage over the length of the hull since last summer has opened just two small gaps of less than 1/32" between plywood and spacers.   So the hull has gone through a full cycle of high to low to high humidity.  Delaware Valley summer humidity is very high and last winter was very cold and dry.  No deformation of the hull has occurred over this period.  When added, planking should constrain any further movement.
 
I was concerned about the effects of clamping when gluing - resulting in tighter joints at the top where normal clamps can be used.  The location of the holes for the threaded rod were placed to maximize uniformity of pressure on the joints.  The bulkheads are very parallel to each other.
 
With the glue joints on the flats of the spacers, they are very much stronger than the end glued pieces fitted between bulkheads on many POB models.  
 
The biggest risk to hull twisting is mis-alignment when setting frames - just like on full framing.  The key is to align every frame as it is installed and to keep the hull plumbed throughout the process.
 
Clare, you might say this is similar to lift construction but with vertical lifts.  In a sense this is true,  But the large number of very accurately formed plywood bulkheads makes final shaping and fairing of the hull easy and extremely accurate as will be seen in later posts.  It is true that there are similarities - as will be seen when the bow and stern are shaped.
 
Any new approach carries risks.  I love these questions, because they help  - even if after the fact - test the validity of the process.  Keep them coming.
 
Ed

Taking a break from building the carronades and thought I would share this beading wire that I use for making the eye bolts. I is anodized black copper wire that eliminates the need for painting them. It is available at craft stores like Michael's in the jewelry area.  
 

 
I make them by holding a drill bit reversed in the handle with the shank showing. This way any size can be formed; here I am making them 1/32" I.D. The kit did not provide enough and they would have had to be painted black anyway. Just another way to save a little time and aggravation.
 

 
The carriages are all complete and now to clean the bases and barrels.
 
 

Modeler's law: never enough light from right side. 100w on floor, 200w up of desk, and a cran lamp with 100w on desk. For good photos, not enough if you have bad camera as me.
 
If I build yoir model, I think >1000w will not been enough
 
Good work

I've gone over the CFL's and now LED's (although slowly).  The newer LED's are brighter and use even less power than the CFL's which, use less than the halogen.  I'm cheap, that's my excuse and I'm sticking with it.

Naval cannons and how it was made.
Naval cannons for age of sails ships was manufactured in foundries.
Cannons was made form bronze or cast-iron and sometimes they were richly ornamented.
 
Tadeusz
 




Bronze naval cannons in Stockholm Army Museum
 


Vasa cannons (reconstruction)
 


Early iron cannon in Gdansk Marine Museum
 


Mary Rose cannon in Portsmouth Historic Dockyards
 
 
 

Your hull sheaves look a lot more realistic than mine since mine were added after the hull planking was done. I assume you drilled holes in a piece of wood, did some carving, and inserted the piece through the hull with some support pieces. 
 
What are the problems you discovered with the stern?

Thanks all, both for the comments and the likes.  Please don't hesitate to offer constructive (or even not so constructive) criticism as well.  I had no idea that there was a 'standard' length for breaching lines, even if I didn't go with that length purely for my own visual appeal reasons.
 
Tonight I got back to the cannon.  First I made a shorter breaching line and used much smaller seizing thread.  I think it came out much nicer.  Since I was happy with both the length and the look, I went ahead and fixed the gun into place and secured the breaching line.  I then replaced the block with the broken hook, and rigged the out-hauls on both sides and after very carefully pulling the line tight, used a small brush and painted the lines with 50/50 white glue/water mix to help 'fix' the ropes.   All that's left now is to do the rope coils, but I'm going to wait until all the guns are in place for that, so I can better picture the space available for both location and size of the coils.     As far as the new toy goes, I don't really know enough about it to talk much really.  It's the 17" Sherline, and I got it with a fairly good assortment of accessories, a couple of 'how to' books, and a DVD.     It's very nice, and it's clearly designed for precision work, with a tool holder.  The Proxxon (which I also have and can be seen in some of my photo's) uses a 'rest' rather than a tool holder, and doesn't throttle down to slow speeds, where the Sherline can be run from 0 speed on up.  They are really designed for different uses, with the Proxxon being for wood turning using hand tools, and the Sherline is for using a tool-rest and precision work.   I initially figured when buying the Sherline that I would sell the Proxxon, but after using it, I think they both have a different purpose on the work bench and will probably keep the Proxxon for doing hand-work using the tool-rest.

I got a new toy yesterday, so today instead of working on getting the guns rigged so that I can actually make some forward progress, I made a side-trip to shaping the bowsprit.  Well, when I was done I decided that it was terrible, because the grain in this 'beech' dowel was just huge and terribly obvious.  So I made a jaunt down to Lowe's after determining that I didn't have any wood on hand that would work as a replacement, and I purchased some poplar dowels and square stock both.
 
When I got them home and really took a good look at them in the sunlight, I decided that the best piece with the best color and lightest grain was one of the square stock.  I cut a length off a little long, and chucked it up in the new toy and began turning the square wood into round wood.
 

 
Here you can see how terrible the kit dowel was (grain is huge) compared to the rough shaped replacement I made from poplar.

 
And I stuck it on the boat just to test fit it.

 
Next, I guess I'll get back to those fiddly little blocks, since there is no point in finishing the bowsprit since I need to get all the deck work done before I mount it.

Erik, as you peruse other build logs you will find that most of us are PVA-people or CA-people.  Several years ago I almost exclusively used medium viscosity CA.  I could move along more rapidly and the only clamps required were my fingers.  But if you make a mistake, acetone is required for debonding.  It also is brittle (if you use it on rigging).  PVA does not get absorbed into the wood the way CA does so if you apply a clear finish there is less chance of glue stains on this very thin and porous basswood planking.  If you let the two mating surfaces become tacky, it takes much less time for the bond to strengthen.  In case of mistakes it debonds with isopropyl alcohol, which is much safer to work with.  When I build the longboat, the only times I used CA was when I was gluing the planking into the stem rabbet.

I finished the planking above the wales on both sides up to the top if the gun ports.  I have yet to add the moulding since I have yet to cut a razor blade that scraped a suitable moulding shape.  I’m still working on that. 
Also, I realized after re-reading Jon’s (JSGERSON) build log that I forgot to add the sheaves on the sides.  So I ending up removing planks, created the sheaves and carved out a place for them on new planks.  Once everything was put back together, the result looks pretty good.  
So the sides are done; and once I get the moulding to look right, I can start planking the lower hull.  I need to drill the treenails, of course, but I have to wait for my drill bit order to arrive. 
The photo looking from the stern shows there are problems that I hope will be covered by the fashion pieces.
 



 

Great idea, Mario

FRIENDS,

Well as my adventures in getting my shop together. One big issue with me as is with others. Is an area for your model to be built. But you also need an area for your plans. I have seen others will have their plans under glass and their model on top. Others build a drawer and they slide the drawer open, then close it to get close to their project to work on. Some have them pinned on the walls. So this was one big issue I really had to think things out. So I had so many ideas running through my head. Until finally I found one that would work for me.
   I JUST NEED A DEDICATED AREA FOR MY PLANS FOR RESEARCH, INTERPRETING, ECT.

  1.  I needed something I did not have to worry about fitting my model and plans in the same area. But still had them close enough so all I had to do was turn and there they are.

  2.  At the end of the day roll them back up and put them away. When I’d rather leave them out.

  3.  When I take measurements from my plans I much more preferred to be standing and have the plans basically on the wall. I just think I take better measurements rather then stooping over plans that are flat on a table.

  4. But I also needed to have them laid flat to see if my new part fleshly made matches the plans.

   5. And one really big issue. Leaving my plans out. But not in the way when doing other things around the house.
 
   6. I also hate to waste space. I like to use every bit.

   There are other reasons but too many to mention. But I hope you get my drift….

So I came up with my “TWO-SIDED PLAN TABLE” or “TWO-WAY”
 
              
 
           
 
          
                                                  

When the table is down I can also pin a 3rd plan to the wall. No more switching from plan to plan most will be dsplayed for my use.... So my shop is getting there.
 
MARIO

Finished
 
The Cutter is finally finished. It's taken me just under 3 weeks to build.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 Danny

Oars
 
I made the oars from English Box. The Byrnes thicknesser and sander did most of the work, the rounded middle section was done in a similar manner to shaping masts and yards. The first pic shows the oars before any hand finishing started.
 

 

 
The square thicker section near the handgrip acts as a counterweight to make rowing easier.
 
 Danny

Rudder and Tholes
 
Here's a pic of the Rudder. The hinge straps are paper coloured with wood stain. The hinges themselves are non-existent, the rudder is simply glued to the transom :
 

 
The Tholes are the period equivalent of rowlocks. I made the support braces using my "mass production" method - most of the shaping work was done on the Byrnes saw, the final rounding done was done with needle files :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 Danny