DaveRow
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Anchors. The "story" so far. The Corel Kit of the Endeavour came with 2 Anchors. 2 of the same, hardly large enough, wrong shape(style) to be the main Sheet or Bower Anchors. Typical of this kit, throw something in, that will do. So I wish to show the type and size of Anchors that Cook had on the "Endeavour"(like many of other builds) on the model, . The AOTS indicates 4 types of anchors. Sheet Bower Stream Kedge Each looks of a similar style. Distinct features, shank, flukes. AOTS states "The standard compliment of anchors for a ship of 350 tons like Endeavour was 3 bower, 1 stream, and 1 kedge. However Cook's journal speaks of several spare Anchors were carried. Now I found with some research on the "Web" some time ago, the following drawing of "Captain Cook's Anchor"(and I am peeved as I cannot find the web address where I found it), found and retrieved from Endeavour Reef(Cape Tribulation, Queensland, where the ship went aground in 10 June 1770. The dimensions match the size for a Small Bower Anchor. The AOTS indicates the anchor arrangements of: Starboard: Sheet anchor forward with small bower astern(behind) Port: Best Bower anchor forward with Stream anchor. So the "kit" anchor is not the correct type. Has curved fluke arms. I sourced a fair match to type and size, of anchors from a reputable source. All were indicated to be the same style(shafts and flukes). 49cwt (74mm shaft) good enough with some mods for the Sheet and Best Bower Anchors up front. 21cwt (54mm shaft) good enough with some mods for the Stream anchor. However the 20cwt(for the Small Bower is different style) not happy. The 20cwt, wrong style(no flukes and shafts different), I was hoping to use as a Small Bower, no way I can use it. So no answer to my complaint from supplier. Ordered another 49cwt(which I reckon I can modify as a Small Bower), see what comes in 2 weeks time. In the mean time, move onto something else. Dave R
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Going along very well Dashi. I am nearly convinced to add a "transom" under the tiller of my build. If I can get it under their now. Dave R
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The shipyard has been taking care of a couple of small items. Scuppers: 3 per side, one with a hose so the AOTS indicates. The starboard side ones >> One with hose. 2 others, plain pipe Rudder Coat: The black flange(third one I made) is plastic with black paint over it. Thanks to Greg Lester, I used same foil wrap for the coat, painted brown. Close up photos show up all sorts of scratches, dint's, dirt, imperfections etc. Next > onto the Anchors. I ordered some anchors from Cornwall Model Boats, which have arrived. Another post another time.. Dave R
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Hi Paul, Good eyes Paul. The back end(on the deck) has a slight curve. From the Knightheads forward it is straight. That is how mine is. In the AOTS, p90 the Bowsprit has slight curve at the rear. I needed the back end curved a little bit more to clear the bumpkin bracket p75 AOTS. Dave R
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Locked indoors with the weather no so good outside. Offers time to progress some smaller items up on the Bowsprit. Jackstaff, rebated into the cap and into down into the right bee. Knightheads, sheet block between each(like the replica) for the sheets to run through. I drilled 2 larger holes for them to run through. I just realised the lower 1(for the yard sling block ? not sure ?) of the 3 eye-bolts probably should be lower. Dave R
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Back in the Shipyard - Bowsprit. First up a close up of the pulley in the process of being sized up into the Jib Boom end. Just about happy with the Bowsprit - a longer version than that in the AOTS. This one is 50mm longer to align(straighten) the main mast fore-stay. Taken a while to add all the bits and pieces to it. I used an oak stain to the timber, bit patchy, see what I can do to even out the dark/light. Then a seal coat of clear over everything. Back end, woolding, hoops and cleats. Jib Boom in outboard position Jib Boom in retracted position. I am aiming to add a U shape to the fore-stays, over the jib boom like in the Victory Bowsprit, to allow the boom retract back. Dave R
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Looking really great. The blocking once fair'd will surely help with the planking. Dave R
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Dash, Never a dull moment in the shipyard, designing, building, deciding(maybe not), alterations, maybe no alterations, changing ones mind when something comes along. ! What we do for glory ! The black, you know where, looks a lot better. Dave R
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Looking really good their Steve. Just where I wish to get my build too one day soon. Dave R
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Thanks to all you guys(gals ?) who follow my posts. Your likes and usual positive comments provide the inspiration, and the effort I put into the shipyard construction worthwhile. I am now moving into the 3 year of this project. My shipyard workers have not had to strike once due to my excellent working conditions and pay(not that they(me) have a choice hee ! hee !). I sometimes get asked by those who visit the shipyard(at home) "how much longer will it take to finish". ? ? I ask myself the same ? Not 10 years... Dave R
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Back in the Shipyard - Bowsprit. Managed to get some more work out of the yard. Setting up the Jib Boom on the cradles, yes I have an extra one for the longer bowsprit. Fore one for normal outboard sailing, lashed down. The rear one for when retracted. Woolding and Hoops(from double wound black cardboard, can you tell ?) I have added additional woolding as has the AMM Endeavour Replica. Rear Fairlead Saddle and rear Jib-boom saddle(for when it is retracted all the way back), woolding and more iron hoops. Took the gamble and directly applied some Oak Stain on the cap end of the Bowsprit. Both yards I will stain oak. Their is a mass of eyes, blocks and lines around the Bowsprit( and Bow. Doing my best to identify all the eye bolts and drill holes for them now, than later on when 'B' fitted. Dave R
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Dash, You made a good choice with a Caldercraft Kit. The Corel Kit I bought(novice choice) had no badges, figures, carvings. Wood is good, about all that was good actually. Dave R
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Hello Pat, I mark the hole outline I need either side, score the hole(square 4mm x 4mm this one was) with scalpel to get a neat edge. I use the surgical scalpel to first do a neat square cut down about the edges, excavate a mm or bit more deeper, take care not to go past the edges. Then use a small round engraving bit(on me Dremel) to excavate through from either side, not all the way to the sides though. Then back to the scalpel, square the sides up through to other side. Work from both ends of the hole, make the hole really neat and accurate. It took me a few goes early on to get this down pat. The pin end(to go in). I first make the pin end(square) oversize and whittle it down bit by bit so it fits neat. Test fit heaps of times. The trick is to shape the end that fits the far side first(the end you see, test fit it), then do not take any more off the end. Takes a while, but neat fit, >> if all goes well. Shaved the Cap this morning on the bench sander a bit thinner. Cap came up a treat. Better than I expected. I just used my new Lathe for first time to turn up the Jib Boom. Excited.... Dave R
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Back in the Shipyard, As I had mentioned in my post #396, have started on the Bowsprit. I made the side Bee Blocks with a sheave(for topmast stay) in each side and the 2 x Bees(top cover plates). The Cap has been fitted(bit thick and needs thinning down). Rebates on either side for the Bee Block to slot into. Bee Blocks in place, the 2 holes for emergency stays drilled, waiting for glue to dry. The right Bee Block top tapered for the Bee(angled) Bees glued in place. Under the head, holes and sheaves. Tried my best to line the parts up symmetrical. Lots more to do. Dave R
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Hof, Hope the deck is behaving itself if you are attacking it. I cannot see the extent of the thinned areas to offer helpful advice to remedy. Dave R
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Hi Chris, I guess the side planks may of been too short, somewhere along the build ? Hard one to fix now. I had cut 2 planks just a wee bit short and was fairly easy to extend. Hopefully the "lady" carving I do will cover this over. My kit didn't even come with the main metal piece over the windows, nor lady or leaf pieces. (Crappy Corel Kit) So will attempt to carve them all. I bought some pear wood ex. USA to do this. Couldn't find a AUS source. Dave R
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Robin and Jud, I do not really know what color the glass was on the 1770's Endeavour for sure. Can either point to a definitive source. ? I did a bit of looking about to when navigational lighting on ships came into effect. Establishment of British legislationIn 1840 appeared the first rules on lights and traffic at sea. The 19th century also saw the first regulations on navigation at sea. Around 1840, with the earliest steamships, a number of nations became concerned about what steps could be taken to avoid collisions and shipwrecks. At the time, each of them acted separately. No ships carried navigation lights, except warships travelling in squadron by night. Whenever two vessels approached each other, it was customary to show one's presence by hoisting a flag or lighting a flare. British ships applied the signalling rules proposed by W.D, Evans, regarded as the father of present-day regulations. Source: http://www.imo.org/en/KnowledgeCentre/ReferencesAndArchives/HistoryofSafetyatSea/Documents/P.%20Boisson%20History%20of%20safet%20at%20sea%20extract.htm#_Toc516043734 Red usually means danger, if I was riding up to red light at night at sea, I'd be watching out close to see what it was or keep clear. Dave R
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Dash, I have much the same, although after reading Shardlow report, Steel's Rigging, AOTS, Parkin, other MSW build logs, the Replica build, I came up with below. Will review after I get the main hull done(before the mast/rigging stage) Dave R
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Shipyard Design Time. If you have a look at my Build Log Post # 286, you will see the case for a 10' longer Bowsprit for the Endeavour. I won't go into all the details, though it dealt a report Mr Ross Shardlow(artist) prepared some time ago(1994) relating to the Replica of the Endeavour. It put a forward “a case for a Taller Mizen Mast” and also a case for “a Longer Bowsprit”. It as all covered back in this Build Log #286. I believe Mr Shardlow was correct, the evidence indicates the Endeavour had an ~ 44' Bowsprit, during Cook's first Journey of discovery of Australia. Well me and the team have been working on how this can be implemented. The plan below shows the outcome(what we will aim for) - somewhat away from the AOTS in a couple of ways. 2 x Bob-stays will run up to the 2 Forestay psoitions(like on the Replica @ AMM). Why have a backup Forestay and not a Bobstay ? The 2 x Fore-stays are further forward, anchored to the Bowsprit, so that they are in line with the "Main Topmast Stay"(so the longitudinal forces are in line, no vertical force to the Fore Mast if not in line) Will be working out how the Jib Boom can be run back and housed in a conventional manner ~ 13 feet and miss Fore Stays(rigging). This apparently was done in bad weather so the Jib Boom was not snapped off - as it hangs out a long way. Other aspects remain similar, cleats, blocks etc. Lets get started. PS. In sailing terms, moving the fore sails out/away from under the blanket of the Fore-Mast sails makes sense. Feel free to add your thoughts. Dave R
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Dashi, You mentioned "Next is to briefly soak and shape each channel to match the curve of the sheer strake and then decide whether to butt them on the sheer strake of check them into it?" I made a set of wider channels with new chain plate positions as well. I also built a a rebate into the sheer stake to let the channels in, much stronger than butting. Since you have already "thinned" them down, you may not want to reduce further as the stays may not be far enough out from the side to miss the top rail. Decisions ? Coming together well in your shipyard. Dave R
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Hi Mike, Let know when you run out of desk space for your build. I extended my space 3 times now, so much bits and bobs gathered for the build. And that is not counting the shed machinery. Dave R
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Hi Bryan, Just found your log on the Victory Bow section. What a fabulous effort you have put in. How you got all the decks fitted out ? magical. Dave R
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Hi Mr Dash, Deck fit-out coming along very well indeed. Particularly like your hatch covers. Dave R
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