JSGerson
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I am still working on my first real build but plan to construct the Constitution in the future. At this stage I am planning to include the rivets because I see them on the real ship. Even though they are small and may be over looked by the casual observer, it does give texture and authenticity to the model. As an example, I've included tree nails in my Rattlesnake build. I did not enhance the contrast or in any way make make them conspicuous so at a slight distance they are not noticeable. As the observer is drawn closer to the model by just looking at it, more and more detail is revealed. It is that act of discovery that delights the observer. As many modeler know, there is a lot of detail that is almost impossible to see (for God's eye) but somehow the effect of that detail is felt. Finally, the detail that is included is up to the builder to the extent that makes him/her feel good about making the model in the first place. That is my personal humble opinion Jon- 117 replies
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Those steps came out beautiful!
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Those sea steps look very nice. Would you mind telling us how you made them? Are there three pieces of stacked wood or did you cut a solid piece somehow? Speaking of the step's three layers, I was wondering why you made three when the plans (as shown in your pictures) appears to show two. I went back to my library of images and found this nice shot of the steps which clearly shows three. Nice job on your research. If you will notice, all of the steps in my photo are painted white, not just those in the stripe as shown in the 1931 photo. As we all know the paint scheme (among other details) has changed over the years. Which leads me to my last question: what era is your model going to depict? Jon
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Thanks for the fast reply. I realize the Dremel stand is not perfect by a long shot but it's all I have. Because I have never used or worked with anybody who has one, every time I consider a milling machine and/or mini lathe, my eyes get too big for my abilities and budget. I get overwhelmed and don't do anything. My present model is in the rigging stage so I don't need any equipment until I start my Conny build, so again no rush. Jon
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I don't have a milling machine, but I do have an X-Y table which I attach with C-clamps to an old Dremel drill stand. Of course the problem with that is getting the X-Y axis lined up properly which is a real pain. I was curious as what kind of milling bits the Proxxon machine uses. Would they fit a Dremel style rotary tool? Jon
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The halyards then pass through the leer block and down towards the deck. There, just above the forecastle deck the halyards terminate at a double block. The double block is rigged with 0.45 mm line to a double block on the deck next to the main mast. The deck double block is connected to a ring which in turn is connected to a deck eye-ring In addition, the yard is secured to the mast with two 0.45 mm rope loops starting on either side of the mast, which allows the yard to slide up and down the mast as well as pivot. I tried getting a clear image of the double blocks, but getting a camera in there was very challenging. BTW, I broke my hand rail by the fore castle ladder, which I will have to re-glue. Not sure if I should wait after more stuff is installed or do it now while I still have clear access to it.
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Main Yardarm The first yardarm is now on the model, not fully rigged, but still, on the model. This was accomplished by first making an eye splice at one end of a 0.80 mm leer halyard, looping it around the main yard inside the yard’s center cleats and threading the other end through the eye splice and pulling it taught. The first photo below shows one halyard on the yard and the other halyard lying behind it, waiting to be wrapped onto the yard. The second photo shows both attached.
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Those lids are VERY delicate and easily knocked off. Just about all of mine are. If you feel comfortable about it, I would suggest that you hold off from installing them now and save yourself the heartache of breaking one or two or more off and losing them. I won't be reinstalling mine until after I finish the rigging...if I live long enough 8-) Jon
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I thought you did. I asked the question for others who are following your build who may not have thought about the consequences of adding a support deck. I wouldn't have known if I hadn't worked on my kitbashed Rattler. Jon
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If I read and understood you correctly, the support decking was your contribution and not the kit instructions. If that is correct, will that make any difference in the final height of the deck? I'm thinking cannon clearance through the gun ports. I don't know what was the original deck construction plan. When I was making the gunports for my Rattlesnake, I made a card dummy cannon that I could poke through the gunports to ensure the opening were of proper height. Jon
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Another missing detail was how the lashings were fixed in place, that is, how were they tied off? I decided to make an eye loop at one end of the lashing, wrap it around the mast twice and pass the bitter end through the eye loop. I originally wanted to seize the end so that one loop would pass through the other. I found this too difficult to accomplish due to the tight restricted working space. I simple made an overhand knot with a dab of CA glue. Right or wrong it’s done.
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Jeers As I discovered while installing the booms on the Mizzen mast, I could have, should have added more stuff to the masts before I installed them; in this case, the jeers. There is a lashing that goes around the mast just above the mast top to which the jeers are attached. The lashing in turn is supported by a chock on the opposite side of the mast from where the jeer hangs. The Main and Fore mast each have a pair of jeers. There was no instruction as to how many turns of lashing was required but looking closely with a magnifying glass on the Mamoli drawings, it appears the lashing goes twice around the mast. According to Mamoli, the jeer uses 0.80 mm rope. Because the lash goes around twice, I used 0.40 mm rope for the lashing figuring two ropes of 0.40 mm should have the same strength as one rope of 0.80 mm.
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It’s been about two months since I last reported my progress, but if you have been following along with me for a while you will know that in a race with a snail and a turtle, I would lose. Yes, I’m slow. That, plus the fact that I’ve been out of the shipyard doing things that needed to be done and among them, I visited Mom for a week and a half at her condo in Florida As a matter of fact, Mom will be 98 in the first week of June. I did manage to work I on the yards, trying to put as much stuff on them before I install them on the model. I’ve added footropes, blocks, and some halyards to the eight remaining yards. Because I live with a cat, the yards are stored in the workbench drawer which I can close (cats and string…etc.), so I couldn’t lay out all the lines neatly for a photo.
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The Conny is my next build as soon as I finish my Rattlesnake (whenever that may be; it's been over 6 years in the making) and I have always intended to "rivet/bolt" my attempt. Per the Hunt practicum (I believe) plastic model railroad rivets were to be used. I always felt they were a bit too large for the scale. I like your method so much better. I look forward to your future postings. Jon
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I did understand your remarks, I was just being a little facetious, hence the quote marks. The bowsprit looks great. I just hope it's stronger than it looks. I wouldn't install it until I had for fear of inadvertently hitting and breaking it. Jon
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I've been away the last week or so and have just caught up on your build. Nice job on the belay ping. Your model model is looking nice, clean and crisp! Jon
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XKen - you were "complaining" about having to make cleats. Syren Ship Model Co makes wonderful laser cut cleats that you finish yourself. These are a lot easier to work with than home made ones (at least for me). BTW, yours came out beautiful! How did you do it? Jonathan
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For those who are curious, here are the US Navy plans for the headboard decorations. (Please note that I had to reduce the file size to conform to MSW file requirements). Based on the notes in these drawings, this is how I understand their history: Dwg. No. 30155001: Headboard decorations. Not shown: the billethead and the base wrap-around which I addressed in Post 320 Dwgs. No. 27498001 and 29623001: Billethead 1813-1835 and 1927 to present. 1835-1861: the Andrew Jackson figurehead was used 1861 – 1907, the 27528001 style billethead used Dwg. No. 27528001: Billethead 1907 – 1927 If anyone wants the full size drawings, please PM me with your email address. Jon
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Wow is right! I never expected this! Making the shield decoration should be interesting. Now I suppose you're going to tell us that you going to cut out the tiny stars in the shield!! 8-) Jon
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I'm impressed; functional 1:64 scale kevels! Build is coming along nicely Jon
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The sound you hear are the "gods" enjoying your build with joyous laughter. They are very happy with what you have done so far. I can't wait to see how you complete the trailboard decorations. I did notice one curious thing with those decorations. I may be wrong as I have not studied the kit plans, but based on the laser etched trailboard you have in place, it appears that the kit has all the decorations on the trailboard when In fact, just a bit of them wrap close to the hawse pipes. I just wanted to make sure you knew now, so if you need to correct anything, this would be a good opportunity. Jon
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I'm convinced. When it comes time for me on this future build, wood it is. Typically, I'm not a big fan of Basswood (Midwest) and prefer Boxwood due to cleaner surface and cuts (less fuzzys). Can this be done in Boxwood which might be a little less flexible, I don't know)? I've got a Byrnes Saw and can make real fine strips if need be.
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Beautiful work! You stated that you explored "various alternatives" for the bow stripes and decided to use wood strips. In a number of other build logs, the modelers (e.g., Robert Hunt's practicum) used white polystyrene in lieu of wood, I assume for the flexibility of the pre-colored white plastic. On the surface it seems plastic would have been the obvious choice. I rather like your choice of wood, but what were your reasons for rejecting the plastic (assuming you considered this)? What other methods did you reject? Jon
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I always thought the MS kit plans were based on the 1926 restoration (I haven't done much research to confirm that) ,hence the fiddle head. Another example, is the model's high waist, a 1926 addition. The last restoration prior, to the current one, restored the lower waist. Nobody really knows what the transom looked like 1797. The fact that the box says 1797 just means that's when it was first commissioned. Jon
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You did a beautiful job on the seats and gratings. When the time comes, I hope mine will even approach what you accomplished. Out of curiosity, if you look at the second photo in post 296, the grating surfaces appear above the level of the rail because you can't see where the stiffeners meet the rail. In your last image, the grating tops are flush with the rail. Was this deliberate? I don't mean to deride what you've done, like I said, I'd be very happy, no, proud to approach your level of craftsmanship. When do you plan on installing the bowsprit? I'm thinking about the gammoning that will be required and it looks like it getting a bit confined in that area. I ran into that problem with my Rattlesnake. Beautiful, just beautiful Jon
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