michael101

I also have the Proxxon. And it’s GREAT for small detail work. I’ve only used it on wood...Moab

Hello friends ,
is there anyone who has experience with this tool 
it looks fantastic for small aria ... 
i know proxxon has something similar but the proxxon one  it looks like a toy ,
also the vibration of proxxon its horizontal and that one its vertical ! So its much better ! 
 
 
 

I have a Proxxon pen sander.  It is hooked up to a MinCraft 12v variable speed power supply.
 
I don’t use it often but there are times when it will work better than anything else.  First of all, the long dimension of the tool is perpendicular to the action of the sanding head.  This means that it works well in confined spaces like the areas between frames in an open boat.  Holding it like a pen gives precise control.  The tool comes with several plastic “feet” that hold the sandpaper attached with pressure sensitive adhesive.  I sometimes make shaped shoes from wood that are glued to the feet to sand different contours.

You can't adjust the speed of the Proxxon. This has never been an issue when sanding wood, but could be if it is used on a plastic model.
 
Edit. Oops. The Proxxon has a choice of two power packs - one of them allows the speed of the tool to be adjusted. 🥴

I got one for plastic models.  Comes with different sized heads as well as different grades of emery paper.  Am very pleased with it - very easy to use and adjust sanding speed, little of the vibation goes into the hands/wrists (unlike some other tools I have used in the past). Not sure how effective it would be for wood - depends on the emery paper used, I guess.
 

I have a Proxxon pen sander and can highly recommend it. This is my second one, the first lasted for 20 years or so. As Mark said, these tools are not designed for bulk removal of wood, but I have just used mine to fine sand the second planking on the hull of my Pegasus build. 
 
Cheers

There's quite a few different models of those out there.  Some oscillate side to side and other in and out.   It has it's uses for small parts not large one.   Also, best bet it is to check out various models and prices.  Prices and quality range wildly.  

Hello friends ,
is there anyone who has experience with this tool 
it looks fantastic for small aria ... 
i know proxxon has something similar but the proxxon one  it looks like a toy ,
also the vibration of proxxon its horizontal and that one its vertical ! So its much better ! 
 
 
 

Wow EJ !
i didnt know you working on the Royal Louis!
You doing a beautiful work ! 
Best regards
Michael.

They need to sort the products online ...
the website its very poor and i think nobody going to pay even 1 dollar just to check some catalog ..
sorry but its like a jock ..
please update if they will do something with the website 
 
 

They need to sort the products online ...
the website its very poor and i think nobody going to pay even 1 dollar just to check some catalog ..
sorry but its like a jock ..
please update if they will do something with the website 
 
 

Hello friend ,I hope all of you are well and safe at this days 
Here is a little update for my build log,
I have done it a few month ago but not had the time for sharing with you
So now before starting the next stage on my victory I had to share with you guys a new method for drilling the holes in a perfect way inside the gunport for the cannons 
 
until now I saw a lot of beautiful build logs and a lot ways for drilling this holes for the cannons but I wasn’t happy with non of them 
I saw some people who used a water level and other who used the stand of the proxxon drill but you can’t get the perfect central hole in the middle of the gunport with this methods....(and there is also other problems with this methods ,I will speak about them later,)
 
So before starting expanding what I have done 
I will start talking about the issues in this matter 
The cannon must be in the middle of the gunport  The cannon also need to be 90 degrees from the keel ( vertical ) and the problem is- the gunport is not square with the keel and each ship has his shape .... And also the cannons need to be 90 degrees horizontal from the sides of the gunport (before at issue no.2 I was talking about the 90 degrees from the keel and I was referring vertical ! and now in the second issue I’m talking about the horizontal way means the cannons must run smooth with the curves of the bow and the stern ) here you can see the issues : 
 
 
So like I said I saw who the builders dill with the drill holes 
some of them used a water level but this level can’t be precise for our needs , also I saw other who used the stand of the proxxon drill ,that one maybe can be ok only for the issue no.2 but not good for the other problems ....
 
All those issues above made me to think a lot about the solution 
and after a lot of thinking I made this jig for my drill who going to resolve all those issues 
I will cut the words and will show you some pictures 
 
-


 
 
And after all here is the result :

 
 
 
 
I hope this guide will help you out 
Best regards,
Michael.

Wow i love your process !!!!!! 
Beautiful work.

Wow EJ !
i didnt know you working on the Royal Louis!
You doing a beautiful work ! 
Best regards
Michael.

Perfecto 👌 

Yes, I understand your points. I believe I'll be following suit by painting my framework before I proceed with the lower deck. 
Thanks for your input here.
 
Robert 😁

Thank you Michael. I'm learning to slow down. It's actually really enjoyable when I take the pressure off of myself. Thanks for being so supportive. 😃

The answer for that is :
i have called caldercraft today and send them the pictures 
i have talk with the guy how design that ship and he told me the middle gun deck mast be 145 ! 
so the problem is the bulkhead and just need to sand the slot and also the bottom of that bulkhead
and i asked hem if need to sand all the down part of that bulkhead or only the corners
the answer is : only the corners of the bottom and he told me dont worry you will need to take a lot from that bulkhead doing the fairing  
also i have ask:
when i check the plans there is something wrong with the top of all bulkheads 
take a look at this pictures 
from the middle gun deck to the second deck its like in the plans but the third deck and the fourth deck is not suitable with the plans 
 
 
and he told me:
the drawing and bulkhead are both correct. The drawing is a cross section through the centreline of the ship and therefore shows the midline of the deck; due to the deck camber this point is higher than the reference point you are using on the bulkhead shown in your picture (the middle deck has no camber which is why it appears to align correctly)
 
hope its will help someone 
Best regards ,
Michael.

Nice job 👍🏻 
just take the time and enjoy the process
Best regards,
Michael.

I have to keep reminding myself I'm new to ship models. I was kinda harsh towards Corel in my last post. They have made an excellent kit. I need to just slow way down and continue to learn and grow in this new journey. 
I fixed all the bulkheads. And it looks like I'm getting close to my first use of glue. I cut 1/2" plywood spacers to be glued in between each bulkhead. Many of the bulkheads were slightly warped and the plywood spacers seemed to straighten it up. Then I'll be gluing some 5/16" square alder sticks alongside each bulkhead where it attaches to the keel. 

As always -- a pleasure to follow your build

as always beautiful work!

about painting I have found that cup very useful for the air brush:
 
 
and here is some pictures of painting :

Here is a little update of the stern block fillers 
to make these blocks was a bit tricky 
because there is 2 curves in a very small aria 
the planks must touch the stern at least in 30 degrees because you need after all sand the stern and making hem 3 mm include the first plank  !  So after making the curve between the bulkhead to the stern you must make a a other curve in the end of the first curve i mean in the aria were the block filler meeting the stern ...

by the way i didnt glue the gallery supports until now ... 
and after all thanks God im very happy that i didnt do it until now ! There was a very massive sanding work in that aria of the block filler so without the gallery suport it was easy to work and also by doing the sanding /fairing work without the gallery supports it keep me from making any damage to the gallery supports ! 
Cheers , 
Michael. 

Hell friends now im working on the fairing process  and i have some point to talk about the basic rule is to put some plank on the bulkheads and to see wetch bulkhead need to be sanded ...   the problem with that is : when you trying to curve a natural plank in one side the other side automatically will get some curve i mean for example if in the middle of the ship the line between the bulkheads is almost straight and in the stern there is a deep curve when you will curve the planks on the stern aria automatically just after that curve the plank will get some bow ! and it will not touch the bulkheads after that deep curve !  as the nature of the wood when you making some curve in the right side the left side will try to get the same angel as the right ....   so most of the builders just pushing the plank to the bulkhead for making the plank touching all the bulkheads .... the problem with that is : sometimes you can push a little bit inside of the line then you will get an hole ... or sometimes when you pushing the plank a little out of the line you will have a little "hill"  and its very hard to detect it with only one plank ! but after 4-5 planks (i mean after planking ) you will see the problem ....   im doing it in other way ..(its my firs time doing that "new" method ) im just puling the plank side ways i mean one hand holding the plank on the first bulkhead and the other hand holding in the last bulkhead but not only holding im also puling the end of the plank for avoiding all the nature spaces that created after the curve ! so if there is a bulkhead that is out of the line i can see that and than i can fix that bulkhead ! the good thing on it is that we using a wood plank and not a rubber or other material that can get stretched ! so if there is one bulkhead out or in you can detect it quickly and the test will give you 100 % of correction !   then when i will plank the ship i will work bulkhead by bulkhead i mean to glue and nail the plank on the first bulkhead then push it in to the second bulkhead with a little bit of puling for avoiding any nature space between the bulkhead to the plank ....  and to do the same process for all the rest of the bulkheads   i will be more than happy if you have some note or comment about that i wrote above   best regards  Michael.