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Louie da fly

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Everything posted by Louie da fly

  1. Louie da fly
    You've made a very good start on this, mate. Looking good.
  2. Louie da fly
    Kris, I would treat the plane that each half-frame "sits on" in its own right, as 30 separate entities (i.e 2 for each frame marked in red on the diagram). Then project from the front elevation of each frame, one by one onto the appropriate plane, at right angles to the plane itself. Does that make sense? Steven
  3. Louie da fly
    That's amazing, Brian! Steven
  4. Louie da fly
    Thanks, Andrew. Sounds like a good idea. Steven
  5. Louie da fly
    Does that mean the frames are angled from the vertical? Like a raked mast? If so, there is a way to do it by "projecting" lines on the paper at right angles to the frame itself. I hope this isn't too confusing. It's a bit hard to explain clearly. Maybe a diagram will help: But if the angling doesn't change frame width, all you really need to do is proportionally adjust the frame heights (for example, if the angled frame needs to be 10% higher than it appears to be from directly front-on (i.e. at right-angles), increase the height of each point of the frame by 10%.) Perhaps you can "stretch" your drawing in some program like "paint" or photoshop. I hope this helps. Steven
  6. Louie da fly
    Good work on the oars, mate. I know how trying/boring it can be, but they look good. Any chance of some photos of the hull? Steven
  7. Louie da fly
    Welcome to MSW, mate, from sunny Ballarat. Hope you're safe up there. Steven
  8. Louie da fly
    Thanks for the likes and the comments. Chuck, yes I'm spiling. I've only had one plank break so far, but note that the planks are only about 0.8 mm (0.03 inch or 30 thou) thick, and there are no particularly tight curves. The broken plank broke when I was trying to induce a curve in it - I think I tried too hard too fast. Steven
  9. Louie da fly
    Having decided to "drop" the drop planks the planking came up higher and I found I had to make higher stem and stern posts. I was fortunate that I had some wood with a curved grain to make them stronger. I needed to keep them the same orientation as the old ones, but I only had a scarph joint to keep them aligned. So before I pulled the stempost/keel/sternpost asembly apart I traced over the old set-up and used it as a pattern for the new one. New planking layout marked out on the plug, with the plank shift also marked. And picked out in red to make it easier to see. Cling-wrap on the plug again, to stop the planks adhering to the plug. The planks of the garboard strake. Dry fitted Glued in place. I was fortunate to find a set of tiny clothes pegs made out of plastic instead of wood, so the glue didn't stick them to the ship. The scarph joining two planks didn't quite work, so I glued in a bit of wood to fill the gap; to be sanded off later. And here's the sequence of planking so far: I used push pins to hold the planks down - the plug was made of pine, but it was rather tougher than I'd been expecting, so I needed to drill pilot holes in the plug so they'd go in far enough. And I used scraps of wood to spread the load, or concentrate it as needed. That's it so far . . . Steven
  10. Louie da fly
    Well, I've been offline for awhile but I haven't been idle. I've made a new buisine (trumpetty thing) with a finer shaft, so it looks more like a trumpet than a bazooka. And a second one. Terribly worried I was going to cut the shafts so thin they would break, but they turned out ok. And I've carved the second buisinier, so now I have both. So here's the three figures so far - A and B on the seal below - (the helmsman isn't finished - I won't finalise his arms till I have the steering oar made and in position) The next people to carve will be the guys amidships (C on the seal). And looking carefully at them for the first time I realise they are working a windlass! It turns out this seal is not just a picture of a ship - it's captured a moment in time! This ship is getting ready to set sail: The helmsman (A) is in place to steer the vessel, and two buisiniers (B) are announcing the ship's departure. The windlass (C) is raising the yard , two crewmen at the bow are weighing in the anchor (D), another crewman (E) is climbing a backstay to unfurl the sail when the yard is fully hoisted. Steven
  11. Louie da fly
    Very nice. Steven
  12. Louie da fly
    She looks magnificent! Steven
  13. Louie da fly
    I'll be following - I love galleys of all sorts. Steven
  14. Louie da fly
    Glen, Welcome to MSW. Just looked through your build log. Very impressive. Steven
  15. Louie da fly
    Glen, that's a really impressive model, particularly as a first build! A couple of points for future models - the standing rigging (shrouds, stays, ratlines) were tarred to protect them from the weather (actually the ratlines probably weren't but would have absorbed tar from the other ropes) and would have been black - or actually dark brown. The running rigging wasn't tarred, as it had to pass through blocks etc, so would be the natural colour of the rope (though it tended to fade and was closer to off-white than tan). You might like to investigate the use of silkspan for sails - it's much closer to scale thickness and fine-ness of weave (in fact it's not woven at all). See and And for sail/steam ships, you might like to look at Banyan's brilliant scratch-build of HMCSS Victoria - see Congratulations on completing a very impressive build! Steven
  16. Louie da fly
    Please Glenn - at least use the correct terminology - "Sharp end" and "blunt end" On a more serious note, welcome to MSW, Razorbill! Take your time - it's not a race - both deciding on what you want to build, and building it. I'd second the comments above - start simple, but don't be worried about making mistakes - we all do - the more experienced modellers just make more interesting ones. Good to have you aboard. When you get started, begin a build log - not only so we can see your model as you progress, but it's also a great way to ask questions and get help and advice from other members, who may well have encountered the same problems. Steven
  17. Louie da fly
    Could I persuade you to start one now? Do you have progress photos? I, for one, would be interested in seeing them. Steven
  18. Louie da fly
    Thanks for the likes and comments, people. I'm now in two minds about the drop planks. What I was working off was this drawing of a knarr - unfortunately, I didn't make a note at the time where I got it from and now I can't find the original again. But the Winchelsea seal does show considerably more sheer than this knarr (though of course it may be due to artistic license). Now I have to decide which way to go - if I increase the sheer it might mean that I have to make new stem and sternposts so they come up high enough above the top of the planking at the ends of the vessel. Time to do a bit of thinking . . . Steven
  19. Louie da fly
    I discovered a small problem. Due to the shape of the hull, I've had to include stop planks, but I was "stopping" them as though they were carvel planks - with both the plank above and below the stopped plank taking its place. But that doesn't work with a clinker built vessel. The overlapping of the planks means that only the plank above the stopped plank overlaps. So instead of this: I had to change the overlap to this: Which means I had to take off the clingwrap and start again. The first buisine player is complete except for removing him from his bit of wood. And I experimented with the buisine. I first thought of making it out of wood, but wood painted to look like brass doesn't look like brass. So I decided to try making one out of brass. Found an old piece of brass welding rod and put it in my "poor man's lathe". And worked it up, bit by bit. To keep the thing from bending uncontrollably I kept my working surface close to the drill chuck, only letting it out bit by bit as I needed to. Pretty happy with the way it turned out. The only problem is that I seem to have made it too thick - more like a bazooka than a trumpet. And now it's been cut off I can't fix it. So I think I'll have another try and see if I can make a thinner one. I hope I can make it work this way - otherwise I'll have to go back to wood, which I'd rather not do, for the reason above. Steven
  20. Louie da fly
    Yes, it seems to work quite well. So full size yours would be somewhat smaller than mine, but well within the "permitted variation" for ships of that type. Mine's at a slightly smaller scale, but of a bigger ship - its dimensions are taken from Hedeby 3. Steven
  21. Louie da fly
    Actually, doesn't he appear at the very end of the Lord of the Rings - when Frodo goes to the Grey Havens? Steven
  22. Louie da fly
    Mr Pleasant, do you have a build log? I looked and couldn't find it. Steven
  23. Louie da fly
    David, the JoTika model (like most other commercial kits) has a forecastle that is probably incorrect, because of the lack of available archaeological evidence (so far they haven't found the forecastle), and based more upon galleons than carracks (which is what the Mary Rose was). At the stage you're at on the model, if you want to, you could think about doing the forecastle differently. But it's your model, your decision. Whatever you do, the important thing is to have fun with it. Steven
  24. Louie da fly
    Between the outside edges of the stem and sternposts - 360mm (14 inches). Steven
  25. Louie da fly
    I've drawn the lines of the planks on the plug, basically using the technique outlined in the planking tutorials. And at the top you can see the wood I'm going to be using for the planking. Walnut from the dead tree of the guy next door, cut into sheets by the guy across the road. It's nice having good neighbours. And covered it in cling-wrap so the planks don't get glued to the plug. I used packing tape to hold the clingwrap close to the plug, and to keep the keel and stem and sternposts in place. And I've started carving the first trumpeter. Steven

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