tasmanian

POB filling between moulds?  The material will be hidden.  It does not need to be pretty.  If there is a gap, use paper or cardboard to make up the short fall.  Liberal use of PVA will stiffen the paper. 
A right angle square, a piece of 1/2" plywood, and a sanding block will stand for a poor man's disk sander.
 

This particular tool has been said to be a Chinese copy of a domestic tool, that may have done in the original company.  It may look neat'o, cool'o  but a home made version will cost less and do what you want.   Tooth on the gluing surface is good, so 100/120/150 grit will cut fast and leave a surface for PVA to bond with.

It also depends on what size of parts you are talking about ...
 
I have a mitre-saw like the one in your link and it works very well. For finer cuts I use a blade for metal. There is clearance in the middle to allow the blade to cut through, but this leads to the tendency of the blade breaking through at the last 0.5 mm or so. You can avoid this by placing a triangular piece of wood into the clearance. Also, clamp your stock to the saw.
 
Cleaning up will be required in any case. If you don't have a disk sander, you can make a sort of vertical hand sander from scrap wood. I think there are some examples here on the forum. Here is a picture of my micro-version to give you the idea:
 

 

I'm sure there are easier ways to make square corners for the deck structures, but I'm not sure exactly how...

Part 16
 
Well the Head Sails,  Foresail and Jib,  have been rigged.
 

This image is from Eighteenth-Century Rigs & Rigging,  Karl Heinz Marquardt.
It shows an rigged Longboat with the sails set.  Shown are a number of Items such as:
 
1. The Boom Sheet Tackle is before the Tiller.
 
2. A Single Purchase Tackle Halyard at the throat of the Gaff Boom.
 
3. The run of the Sheets for the Head Sails.
 
4. A Halyard for the Main Sail to haul it to the boom end.
 
5. A single Shroud.
 
 
 
 

This image is from The Arming & Fitting of English Ships of War, Brian Lavery .
It shows a Mid-18th Century Longboat.  Items shown are:
 
1. The Boom Sheet under the Tiller.
 
2. The topping Lift has a Single Purchase Tackle.
 
3. A Single Purchase Tackle Halyard at the throat of the Gaff Boom.
 
4. The Backstays are close to the Shrouds.
 

This is an overall view of the starboard side.
 

A starboard fore quarter view.
 

A port fore quarter view.
 

A port aft quarter view showing that the Backstays have been shifted forward by one thwart.
 

The Mast Head,  getting very busy.  Much of this rigging has been changed.  If One looks closely the hooks are moussed.  
 
 

I have added two belaying pins.  One forward for the Jib Outhaul.  Another just in front of the mast for the Gaff Boom Halyard.
 
There is much to do inside.  Including Coils, Grapple, Shrouds, and Oars.
 
More to Come
 
BobW  

Proxxon 37006 KS 115 Bench Circular Saw on Amazon for $125 or 
MicroLux® Miniature Table Saw on Micro-Mark for $129.

The final look of the deck, here are a few pictures, video will follow in a bit
 
 

Your method I have seen before..  You might consider drilling the holes before shaping the deadeyes..

Frame assembly part 1 completed

Very nice progress...
Just wondering what type of saw blade are you using on your table saw? I have a DeWalt table saw would like to use for these type of cuts..
 
Thanks
 
 
 
 
 

I’m not sure if it’ll help but, my frames A & B I left the bow sprit supports and cut the extra in the bulkhead to accommodate the gun deck.

Bit more done on this.

Hi all planking done and varnished, made up the stand, painted the black top part and added some more to the decking structure.

Your doing a super job. I am also a schooner fan and will enjoy watching your`s take shape.
Regards ~

That does look brilliant Joe 👍
Regards
Richard

Looks very good!
Jim

Hull planking is complete to the level of the main deck. I did edge bend where necessary, and the basswood is quite compliant in that regard. 
 
 

Planking has begun. Nothing too exciting really. The schooner hull makes things easier here at the bow for sure,, and there are a good number of bulkheads. 
 
I'm not planning to be super anal about the planking, since the hull will be fully painted. 

Sliver's gone! Now I'll sand the hull and micro-fill some very small spaces. Varnish would probably hide them, but I'll make some filler by sanding some left over planks for their sawdust. I know what you're saying..."shoulda' painted the hull like the instructions say." I just happen to like looking at un-painted wood.

Finished the Larboard side yesterday but our site was down? There's one small strip under the rail, but I'll wait until just before I glue on the cap since the edge is fragile. Now onto the starboard side.

PVA is a type of glue - Elmers is a brand  name for their version of PVA glue.  Titebond is another brand name.  All PVA glues sold as wood glue work well and can be unbounded using hot water or isopropyl alcohol. 

I've finished gluing the planks that curve up at butt up to the transom. Getting there.

Has anyone ever used silkspan to make sails. I found this excellent video that suggest this is a good material to use. 
 

Hi Scott,
I am attaching a  picture of the plastic Black Pearl kit that I did.  If it is the look that you are after I will be happy to tell you how I did it.  I wouldn't say that it's quick, it probably took about at least two or three days full days to paint that deck.  

Like many, Christmas holidays are not really conducive to assembling models ...
But this church continues to build slowly with the guard tower and the belfry: 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Work in progress before sanding and joints on the tower and bell tower.
The bell tower was split in 2 to be able to work the openings a bit.
The apse is finished.
Soon, I will attack the roofs ...