Ryland Craze

Thanks everyone for your comments and also for the "Likes".  They keep me motivated to keep moving forward on this build.
 
I completed the thwarts earlier this week and today I completed the cockpit seats.  These took me some time to do as I would sand and file the notches, fit the piece, sand and file the notches some more and fit the piece again.  I did this many times for each piece and found it a slow process, but very rewarding.  I am very happy with the results and received a lot of positive comments for my fellow club members at the Hampton Roads Ship Model Society meeting this past Saturday.  Here is a picture of my work since my last post:

 
Here is a picture of the Longboat with the thwarts and cockpit seats dry fitted:
 

I had jumped ahead of the instructions as I wanted to construct the interior details before I painted the model.  I feel this worked out very well for me as I was handling the model quite a bit fitting the interior details.  I am sure that I would have a lot of paint touch up to do if I had painted the cap rails before I did the interior details.  I cannot wait to get some color on this model as it really looks dull with no paint on it.

Thanks everyone for the "Likes".  I finally finished installing the simulated nails using 10LB black monofilament line.  I cut a short length of the line, dipped the end in some titebond glue and then inserted the glued end in the holes that I had previously drilled in the planks using a #77 bit.  Once finished and the glue dried, I trimmed the monofilament line close to the plank using a sharp blade.  I then gave the hull a light sanding and applied a light coat of Wipe On Poly.  Here is a picture of the line before I trimmed it.

Here is the hull with the monofilament line trimmed and a light coat of Wipe On Poly applied:

I then sanded the inside of the hull and applied Wipe On Poly.

Next up is to paint the cap rail and then install the friezes and the molding.  That will complete Chapter 3 of the instructions.

Thanks Michael and Rich and the "Likes".  The model is very strong while being very light.
 
Jim, thank you for your comment on my health.  I am doing great and it seems like a bad dream as to what happened to me a couple of months ago.  I will be looking forward to seeing you at the NRG Conference later this month.
 
I have installed the cap rail and the bolsters since my last post.  The cap rails need to be thinned down quite a bit and I have started this on the starboard side of the model.  I have done a lot of sanding on the cap rails and frames and still have a lot more sanding to do.  Here is a photo of my progress to date on the Longboat:
 

I worked on the bolsters for the past three days.  I was lucky to have made the starboard side on my first try.  The port side took me two tries.  I left about an 1/8'' of wood on the forward part of the bolsters after carefully fitting the rear part of the bolsters to the hull profile and glued them to the stem.  When I sanded down this excess wood, some red grain appeared from the middle of the port bolster.  The more I sanded, the more grain appeared.  I am not happy with this as I feel it will look like a bit of red paint got on the bolster when I paint the cap rails red.  I will have to live with it as there is no way to replace this bolster.  You never know what is hidden inside a piece of wood.
 

Very nice job on your Sherbourne.  You are making good progress.

Many years ago I had the opportunity to see Chuck do a demonstration on his painting techniques.  I remember that he had a piece of wood that had several squares drawn on it and he had a jar with water that contained several paint brushes.  The brushes had been in the jar for some time as the tips had curled due to the weight of the brush.  He explained that in art school he had to do a color pallet with one inch squares that he had to paint perfectly square and with no lap marks or brush strokes.  Failure to do so would result in failing the class.  He showed how to thin his artist acrylic paint with water and paint within the squares.  The demonstration was only 30 to 45 minutes long but he was able to build up the color after many coats of paint to reduce the opaqueness of the thinned paint.  The curled tip of the brush helped to get a fine line as he stroked the brush along the border of the squares.  He also talked about breathing and "pinky" control.  He also had a brush with clear water and a piece of sandpaper that was cut in an arc to touch up places where the paint was outside of the area he wanted to paint.  I wish I had videoed the demonstration as it would have been a good reference tool.  I have tried his painting technique and find that it works very well.  Before this technique, I was painting my models trying to cover everything in one coat and wondering why I had brush strokes and lap marks.  If you use Chuck's technique, you will find that your paint jobs and confidence will get better with each coat of paint that you apply.

Here are some of the “bits and bobs” I’ve been working on. 
 
Cabin, Binnacle, Skylight, Chimney, Wheelhouse, Bitts, and helmsman’s grating. (But not in that order.) My iPad photography leaves much to be desired, and I really need to have a painting party.
 
Currently working on Sheet Buffers, and Pintles and Gudgeons.

Greetings! 
It is good to be back in the Shipyard! A long time ago (2009)in a city far, far away (Buffalo, NY) I started building the Model Shipways Bluenose using the Bob Hunt Practicum. Got the hull all planked, and I was really proud of my work. Had a really good build log going. Then life happened, and MSW crashed. The last couple weeks, thanks to a Coronavirus reduced work schedule, I have picked it back up. I had forgotten how much I really enjoyed this tiny intricate work.
I have started on the deck “furniture” beginning aft, and working forward. So far I have completed the cabin (with binacle, skylight, chimney and gangway) the helm, bitts and boom crutch. Currently I am working on the rudder, pintles and gudgeons, and the boom sheet buffer. I have several dories made, but really am not happy with the way they look. 
 
What I am REALLY bad at, is remembering to take pictures. Here is one snapped by my daughter last night while I was making ring bolts.

Good ole Bob Hunt. Cantankerous dude, but the AVS is where I learned to model. That really was a long time ago. 

It has been a while since I posted my progress on my Medway Longboat.  The world has changed a lot since my last post.
 
I have completed the painting using many coats of thinned Grumbacher Red Cadmium Medium Hue.  I am satisfied with the outcome.  It found that I achieved a better finish using a fatter round brush than the one that I posted a picture of in a previous post.  I believe it laid down a much smoother coat than the smaller brush and the color was a consistent flat, slightly satin finish.
 





I have a few more items to complete and I will be finished with the hull.  Please stay safe.

I’m going to remember this when I start painting Cheerful. I’ve always painted multiple coats, but like 3-4. I’d love to see your boat live. I bet you can feel the depth. Really nice job. 
 
I can paint a straight line...wait without tape...😱😳

Great workmanship Ryland. I remember that demonstration well. You did a great job applying it!

Many years ago I had the opportunity to see Chuck do a demonstration on his painting techniques.  I remember that he had a piece of wood that had several squares drawn on it and he had a jar with water that contained several paint brushes.  The brushes had been in the jar for some time as the tips had curled due to the weight of the brush.  He explained that in art school he had to do a color pallet with one inch squares that he had to paint perfectly square and with no lap marks or brush strokes.  Failure to do so would result in failing the class.  He showed how to thin his artist acrylic paint with water and paint within the squares.  The demonstration was only 30 to 45 minutes long but he was able to build up the color after many coats of paint to reduce the opaqueness of the thinned paint.  The curled tip of the brush helped to get a fine line as he stroked the brush along the border of the squares.  He also talked about breathing and "pinky" control.  He also had a brush with clear water and a piece of sandpaper that was cut in an arc to touch up places where the paint was outside of the area he wanted to paint.  I wish I had videoed the demonstration as it would have been a good reference tool.  I have tried his painting technique and find that it works very well.  Before this technique, I was painting my models trying to cover everything in one coat and wondering why I had brush strokes and lap marks.  If you use Chuck's technique, you will find that your paint jobs and confidence will get better with each coat of paint that you apply.

It has been a while since I posted my progress on my Medway Longboat.  The world has changed a lot since my last post.
 
I have completed the painting using many coats of thinned Grumbacher Red Cadmium Medium Hue.  I am satisfied with the outcome.  It found that I achieved a better finish using a fatter round brush than the one that I posted a picture of in a previous post.  I believe it laid down a much smoother coat than the smaller brush and the color was a consistent flat, slightly satin finish.
 





I have a few more items to complete and I will be finished with the hull.  Please stay safe.

Thanks everyone for your comments and for the "Likes".  I am really appreciative of those Medway Longboat builders that have created build logs as I refer to them often to see how they constructed a certain component of their build.  This has helped me in my build.
 
Michael and Jean-Paul, I like the Grumbacher Red as it gives a low sheen, almost matt finish.  I like the red color as it does not have the orange tint that some of the reds do.
 
Don, thank you for checking out my post and for your comment.  I am very pleased with the model and I cannot wait to see it finished.  This is a really nice kit and the instructions and materials are first class.
 
Bob and Rich, my paint job is far from perfect, but I am very happy with it.  The thin coats are the key to getting a good paint job.  I must have around 20 coats of paint on this model and it is just like painting with water colors.  I feel the more that you paint, the better your technique gets.
 
Bill, thanks for your comment.  I am following your progress on your Cheerful as I have this model on my shelf and considering it for my next build.
 
Chuck, the cedar has worked out great.  The WOP over the cedar has made it look like boxwood and I have used your technique for the painting.  I am striving to get to your level of craftsmanship, but realize that I am no where near that.  However, just trying has made me a better modeler than not trying at all.
 
Thanks everyone for looking in.  Please stay safe and wishing everyone the best of health and happiness.

Many years ago I had the opportunity to see Chuck do a demonstration on his painting techniques.  I remember that he had a piece of wood that had several squares drawn on it and he had a jar with water that contained several paint brushes.  The brushes had been in the jar for some time as the tips had curled due to the weight of the brush.  He explained that in art school he had to do a color pallet with one inch squares that he had to paint perfectly square and with no lap marks or brush strokes.  Failure to do so would result in failing the class.  He showed how to thin his artist acrylic paint with water and paint within the squares.  The demonstration was only 30 to 45 minutes long but he was able to build up the color after many coats of paint to reduce the opaqueness of the thinned paint.  The curled tip of the brush helped to get a fine line as he stroked the brush along the border of the squares.  He also talked about breathing and "pinky" control.  He also had a brush with clear water and a piece of sandpaper that was cut in an arc to touch up places where the paint was outside of the area he wanted to paint.  I wish I had videoed the demonstration as it would have been a good reference tool.  I have tried his painting technique and find that it works very well.  Before this technique, I was painting my models trying to cover everything in one coat and wondering why I had brush strokes and lap marks.  If you use Chuck's technique, you will find that your paint jobs and confidence will get better with each coat of paint that you apply.

Many years ago I had the opportunity to see Chuck do a demonstration on his painting techniques.  I remember that he had a piece of wood that had several squares drawn on it and he had a jar with water that contained several paint brushes.  The brushes had been in the jar for some time as the tips had curled due to the weight of the brush.  He explained that in art school he had to do a color pallet with one inch squares that he had to paint perfectly square and with no lap marks or brush strokes.  Failure to do so would result in failing the class.  He showed how to thin his artist acrylic paint with water and paint within the squares.  The demonstration was only 30 to 45 minutes long but he was able to build up the color after many coats of paint to reduce the opaqueness of the thinned paint.  The curled tip of the brush helped to get a fine line as he stroked the brush along the border of the squares.  He also talked about breathing and "pinky" control.  He also had a brush with clear water and a piece of sandpaper that was cut in an arc to touch up places where the paint was outside of the area he wanted to paint.  I wish I had videoed the demonstration as it would have been a good reference tool.  I have tried his painting technique and find that it works very well.  Before this technique, I was painting my models trying to cover everything in one coat and wondering why I had brush strokes and lap marks.  If you use Chuck's technique, you will find that your paint jobs and confidence will get better with each coat of paint that you apply.

Thanks for the "likes" guys!
 
 I cut the notches for the frames into the rising wood blanks using the Byrnes saw and a I-292 .030 kerf blade.  They need to be cut to length.  Because the plans were scaled up to 1;32 scale, the lines on the plans have some thickness to them.  It's a matter of sneaking up on the final width of the notches so the frames fit snugly.  Not easy to do!  I have a few that will need shimming.  Since I plan to epoxy the frames to the rising wood and then pin them to the keel with braass rod, that may be overkill.
 

I hope to receive the remainder of my supplies by the end of this week so I can finish the display and post the results.  Stay tuned.  In the meantime enjoy some popcorn from Mark's popcorn maker 

I would like to point out that I completed this dio some time ago and since finding this section I thought it would be nice to post it as a wip to show how I did it.
So here is the next installment.
 

No real progress to post on the kitamaebune. I'm still struggling with ways to make the sails in a realistic fashion. If I can't make something work well, I can always use the kit provided main sail and leave the forward mast, called the yahobashira, bare poled with just the halliard rigged. But, I'm still hopeful.
 
In the meantime, I thought I'd post this update on a boat that I posted pics for back in February called a Honryousen (hone-reo-sen). The model was commission by Douglas Brooks as a gift for generous donors who helped fund his project in Japan last Fall. The boat was one of two that he and his crew built, in this case under the guidance of Japanese boat builder Mr. Nakaichi Nakagawa. 
 
The model was completed and sent to its new owner up in Washington state, after which I received a very nice phone call thanking me for the model. I also was given a photo of the model where it is being proudly display, so I thought I'd share that here.
 

Nice to have some real closure on that project. 
 
By the way, I found I have a few good close-up photos of the sails of the Hakusan-maru, which is the kitamaebune replica ship on Sado island. I'm hoping they will help me with my sail development, but they're more likely to complicate things further – a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing...
 




 
 

Hi all well it was supposed to arrive on the 30th, lucky me it arrived early.
What a great kit I've not used one drop of glue the fit it purfect (only downside is the kit has stickers instead of decals). I'm going to depict it rotting in a field I've read these tend not to rust much but I will be adding some.
This will really stretch my skills as my normal rusting techniques are done exclusively with enamels and pastels, obviously I cant use enamels on this plastic so will have to adapt and invent.
I've made a start on the weathering, I really think I will enjoy this first forage into gundam.

First - Traitor!!!! 😂
 
Now that I have that out of my system. Take a look at Scalemates. If I searched correctly this is a link to that kit and it has a download of the instruction manual that shows the parts at the end: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-78017-us-battleship-bb-62-new-jersey--146616
 
I would imagine that you could do a spruce comparison and see if anything is missing.
 
I hope it works out for you and I’d love to follow the build. Someday, I’m going to build an A-10, I’ve always wanted to build a brilliant one (not certain if I have the skill or time yet though, but eventually I’ll join you on the dark side).
 
Edit: https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/1/6/146616-82-instructions.pdf

Don't sweat the planking too much. I'm a really crumby hull planker and could never produce a hull that could bear a natural finish. I rely a lot on sanding, wood filler and paint. If you're planning on painting your hull then you should be ok too. The important part is getting the hull faired properly. That's where you need to take your time. It's always tempting to get it over with as quickly as possible, but it really shouldn't be hurried. You may also have to build some bulkheads up with a thin strip. And don't worry about making a serious mistake. If you sand a bulkhead too much, you can just glue a strip on and re-shape it.
 
Once you have the shape of the hull correct, then there shouldn't really be any problems with the planking that you can't solve by sanding and filling. If you plan on a natural finish then you need to work to a higher standard than I usually do, but if you're planning to paint it, you shouldn't have any problems.
 
David

Hi David
 
i looked through your build log . Great job. I’m just going to take my time and do a little at a time. 
 
I’m waiting for a few tools to get delivered before I start. My biggest fear well not fear really is making sure I do a good job with planking since it will be my first 
 
thanks for your help
 
Tony

Hi Tony,
I just finished this model and I used the 3/16" kit supplied strips.
 
Bob Hunt's practicums are generally not bad, but he really drops the ball with the rigging for POB. Take his rigging instructions with a grain of salt and spend a lot of time studying the plans. They're a bit hard to decipher, but everything you need to know is there. That was my experience.
 
Best of luck and stay safe.
 
David