Ryland Craze

Go the other direction! I have a couple of his 1/300 frigates, very nice little kits.
 
1/300 Langton HMS Victory
 


 
 

After completing the English Longboat, this build of the English Pinnace seems like the next logical project for me. I placed an order with Wood Project Source for some hard maple. This order covers the planking and various other aspects of the build. The laser cut parts from the kit will be used, of course. I'm very curious how it is to work with hard maple. 
 
A photo of the plans, practicum, and my planking fan is included for your enjoyment while I procrastinate on creating a building board for this project. Welcome!
Steve

This has turn out beautiful. Almost makes me want to go out and buy one, but I have to many kits on the shelf and under the table and everywhere to do that, maybe if I live long enough I will. Beautiful work. Keep the pictures and post coming, always looking for more to see. And Thank you for sharing the excellent build with us here.

After 3 hours of repairs, the big guns are done. Ammo boxes added and the AA guns, finally looks like a battle ship. As the 25mm's are so fragile I will leave the rest of them to last, but I really don't want to tempt fate by removing the big guns again. 

Had a 2-3 month absence from the shipyard while camping in Florida. Now I am back at work on the Chaperon.  Here are the 2 latest photos.

Some of you may have been wondering how long it would take for me to crack and start Kit Bashing - right about NOW .
 
While visiting the Scale Model Horsedrawn Vehicle site I saw a build where the guy had made WORKING door locks. Not to be outdone I thought I'd give it a go . The other guy is building in a larger scale (1:8), so I've simplified my method. The design is entirely my own, a bit of "trial and error" included .
 
Here's a pic of the working parts that I built initially. From the left - the main shaft, the cam pin, the cam, and the tongue :
 

 
My first test was a failure - the tongue needed a slot instead of the semi-circular cutout. I'd actually thought of the slot as I was falling asleep last night, but by this morning I'd forgotten about it
Here is the mk2 tongue, and the cam silver soldered to the shaft :
 

 
My "test bench" where I checked that the assembly had enough "throw" - perfect :
 

 
The assembly fitted into the door. I still need to make some "locators" to hold the tongue in line, as well as escutcheon plates to hold the shaft in position :
 

 
More will follow tomorrow. Stay tuned .
 
  Danny

Very nice Mike .
 
I've sheeted both sides and also made the two doors. Ready for paint :
 

 

 

 

 
The door in place, the gaps are much neater than they look here as I've only roughly supported it for the pic. The hinges are fitted after painting :
 

 
 

Dave
 
As Mickey Martell used to say, " t'aint a hobby if you gotta hurry."
 
You'll be back up and making sawdust soon enough.
 
Vince

Wow, that is nice.  You will be able to do some serious modeling in your new workshop.  I cannot wait to see it when you move all of your modeling tools back in.  I am also looking forward to seeing the models you will be building as you turned out some highly crafted models out of your old workshop.

Wow, that is nice.  You will be able to do some serious modeling in your new workshop.  I cannot wait to see it when you move all of your modeling tools back in.  I am also looking forward to seeing the models you will be building as you turned out some highly crafted models out of your old workshop.

Wow, that is nice.  You will be able to do some serious modeling in your new workshop.  I cannot wait to see it when you move all of your modeling tools back in.  I am also looking forward to seeing the models you will be building as you turned out some highly crafted models out of your old workshop.

1/8" a day. That's slow planking. So, I'm still bending, shaping and gluing planks. Pre-shaping the plank on the hull really makes the gluing part easy. No forcing at all.

Mast & Bowsprit repaint
 
I left a bit of the old paint for comparison and you can see my "yellow ochre" attempts were just miles off. After some research this is what was used on the Victory in 1804 and is whats painted on her currently since 2015. I like it on the the Sherbourne as you can see in the bottom photo. Just fits in nicely I think. 
 
It's a strange color to be sure. In some light its peach and some light its pale mustard. Has anyone else bought this stuff recently and seeing the same?     
 

Standing Rigging
 
Working on the backstays then I'll work on the forestayes. I've been putting "lashings" on almost everything as simple knots just look ugly and out of place. I've run into a bit of a snag in the second picture. I don't really know if I belayed the rope right and what to do with the end of it, make a pool of rope on the deck or make a hoop of pope around the cleat? I should have bought a book about this rigging business. The instructions are lacking in this regard and make it seem like all the rigging can be done in an afternoon... maybe I'm over thinking things.
 

 
Mouse
 
I made the Mouse with a small piece of dowel, glued it on and wrapped it with fine black thread. Not quite the shape I was looking for but it will do fine.
 

The first planking is done. Took me some time to get back to the AVS due to the almost one month waiting time for my CT boxwood order to arrive in germany.

Hi Albert,
many thanks.
Here is a brief update:

Hello,
 
Ed and Carl,
thanks for the nice compliments and
all others for the LIKES.
The floors of tops at La Creole consist of grätings.
Here I show some pictures of the production.
Furthermore I show how I make the frames for the tops.
 

 

Vince and Druxey - many thanks.  I still haven't moved anything back in.  I spent the last few days cleaning the plaster dust that got all over the house, and yesterday moving many boxes of stuff out of a storage locker and into the new attic room.  I got my wife's side of the garage back in order.  I'm hoping to be back in business by next weekend.
 
Dave

We just finished some work on our house, which included major renovations to my workshop.  I thought of putting up a build log of the renovations, but it wasn't me doing the work, and I just never got it together.
 
My old workshop was my dream workshop when we moved into the house. It was the first time I ever had a dedicated room, and it was decent size, around 17x12 feet. It was a usual basement room: unfinished, with exposed insulation, uncovered small part-eating gap between slab and wall, and just got outgrown as I go more tools and tried to work on two projects at once.  The room was off a “two-car garage”, which only fit two cars if they are parked front to back.  I used my table and band saws there.
 
At the urging of my tremendously supportive wife, we put up an insulated wall that splits the garage and creates a new second workshop room. There is a third furnace room in back, which we were able to clear out.  All three rooms will be part of the new workshop.  The two front rooms got:
 
-Sheet rock over ceilings and exposed insulation
-Painted walls, ceilings, and floors
-lights and electrical outlets
-dehumidifier with drain for condensate
-vent for spray booth
-molding covering gap between walls and slab where parts always disappeared
-utility sinks
 
The unfinished furnace room got lights and electrical outlets.  The epoxy floors should be dry enough that I can start to move my tables and tools back in over the weekend.  Plan is for storage and big sawdust producing machines in the unfinished room (band saw and table saw). Still working on the layout of the other rooms.  Most likely paint and assembly in the new room with the spray booth vent, and wood and metal small power tools in the old workshop.  I don’t think I will outgrow this workshop, and now could build something bigger than a model if I ever want to.
 
Some pictures below. The camera on my phone made the rooms look a lot darker than they really are - the lighting is great.   I didn’t take any of the furnace room. It looks like an unfinished basement room with a furnace in the corner, but now with lights and enough electrical outlets.  First two pictures are the new room, second two are the renovated old workshop room.
 
Should be able to get back to Echo in a week or so.  It’s been sitting on the shelf if my office waiting. 

One trick I used on my Connie was to drill a small hole in the end of the mast and glue in the snipped off end of a needle. I had to do this on the Connie because the blocks I had glued into the hull still allowed for a bit of slop. The small needle point was enough to keep the foot in place while the rigging was put in place.

Home again and back to work, so time for an update. I've made up and mounted the three square half frames at the stern. Same procedures as for the full frames. I also did some fairing while waiting for glue to dry. This was primarily in the midship area and consisted of using various sticks and blocks with 60, 100 and 120 grit sandpaper. Final fairing will be done when the frames are complete.
 
I'm now working on the stern cant frames.
 
Bob

Very first attempt at silver soldering. seemed to do ok.  Its a little tilted but it seems strong.
 

After a bunch of shaping and cutting away, I am able to temporarily get the rudder in.  Next up is making the gudgeon and pintles.  Which include soldering and blackening.... Yikes, will be my first time doing both. 
 


 

Rudder time...  As usual in this kit it is built up in layers.
 

 
With a bit of sanding and glue... (tiller is probably upside down in picture...)
 

 
Now we come to a problem.  The itty bitty little tiny space on the ship where this big fat rudder is supposed to fit into.  Obviously gotta work a bit of shaping on the top half of the rudder and the "rudder hole" (I am sure there is a nautical term for this area). 
 

So, I am now in the position that I can glue down the main superstructure.