Ryland Craze

I decided to plank using boxwood purchased from Jeff at Hobby Mill...he is the best!
 
     Bob R.

The hull was planked using basswood as I was going to cover it with copper plates.

Hi All, I've been digging through my file and I'm putting to gether the pictures for my scratch build of Chucks Model Shipways Syren. The build is in the 1:64 scale. The main wood used was Boxwood, Cherry, Holly and Swiss Pear.
 
 
This log was started back in 2007 and I was bad about taking pictures but here is what I have.
 

Part 3:  Planking:
 
The first step in planking involves a choice.  What will the profile of your boats sheer look like?  With some guidance as to what period considerations this choice affects your model, the design leaves it up to you how pronounced you would like the sheer to be.  For me, I like the aesthetics of compound curves.  So I chose to put a pretty pronounced sheer into the boat, which had a consequence for me down the line in planking.
 
I followed the instructions pretty closely, and made good use of the tips on how to form curves in the planking using a hair dryer.  However there was one thing that I did not do, and I will excuse it as novice exuberance.  I did not measure my distances to determine how many planks were needed between the sheer plank and the garboard plank.  This did lead to an error, but reflecting on it, I don't think even with measuring that I would have caught it.  The error was this, in following the instructions i placed the forward edge of my garboard plank at 1/8" forward of the scarf joint in the keel.  However, I think, due to my chosen sheer, it should have extended forward another full width of a plank.  What I ended up with was a small filler piece approximately the width of one plank.  Please, if anybody can tell me if this is the right assumption I would appreciate it.
 
Also during this stage I broke off the stem above the cap rail.  It was a clean break, so I kept it off of the model until after I had completed the cap rail, and then glued it back on with no ill effects.

Thank you for moving my build log to the group forum Chuck.  And thanks Ryland, I will be following your log as well.  
 
 
Part two:  Bulkhead Installation
 
This process did cause me a few problems, but nothing that I would consider too great.  Being new to the building wooden boats, and being eager to dig into the model, I went a little too fast through this phase of the build.  I unfortunately didn't think of your advice, Ryland, or the ingenious use of lego blocks I have seen elsewhere on this site to true the bulkheads to the keel.  So I ended up with some less than true bulkheads.  This did cause some problems for me down the road, but I was able to deal with the problems as they came.  
 
As far as fit of the pieces goes, everything went together nicely, except maybe 2 bulkheads that needed to be lightly sanded to get them to snugly fit into the false keel.
 
After completing the bulkheads and transom, sorry no picture of the transom, I faired the hull using a 1" and a 1/4" sanding sticks.  I found that there was plenty of strength in the assembly at this point, even with no sheer plank in place yet.  I would credit the strength to the innovative bulkheads.  Being that the vast majority of the material in each bulkhead will ultimately be removed, I would consider the removable bulkhead center key to the ease of construction designed into this kit.
 
I did have a couple of areas where I removed too much material from the frame during fairing, which I remedied by gluing on wedges, filing and sanding to match the curve of the hull.

Originally Posted January 25, 2010
 
I have been working on my Armed Virginia Sloop and I can finally say that I have finished Chapter 5 of the practicum.
 
The first picture shows a side shot of my AVS. I have installed the swivel cannon posts and the channels. I pinned the channels to the hull and secured them with glue. I also elected to mount my AVS on pedestals instead of the kit supplied launching ways.
 
The next two photos show the deck details. I probably spent way too much time on them, but I was satisfied with the end results.
 
Here is a photo of the ships wheel, binnacle, elm tree pumps and the companionway. I replaced the cast metal ships wheel with a wooden wheel that I purchased from Model Expo.
 
This last picture shows the hatch and a close-up of the cannon rigging.

 
The completion of Chapter 5 basically finishes the hull. All that is left to finish is the masting and rigging. I have actually started Chapter 6 of the practicum and will post some pictures of my progress soon.

OK Chuck, I have pulled my partially completed Longboat out of the box and am ready to start back to work on this kit.  Your pictures really inspire me and like Chuck Seiler said, you can expand the pictures to get a better look at the detail.  Look for another Longboat build log soon.

After all of the bulkheads were installed, it was time to fair them.  I used sanding sticks that I purchased from a beauty supply shop.  You have to use a light touch to do the fairing or you will loosen up some of the bulkheads.  I actually loosened up several of the bulkheads, but it was an easy fix to reglue them. 
 
Here are some pictures of the fairing process and the sanding sticks that I used.
 

 
Next step is to start the planking.

Hello All,
 
This is a build log for my Model Shipways 18th Century Long Boat kit.  Two very new things for me, one building models from wood, and the second posting about a process in an online forum.  So here goes...
 
I have been interested in building models since I was a teenager, and indeed built many while in high school.  Though none have seemed to survive the journey into adulthood with me.  In the last couple of years, that interest has been rekindled, due to a remarkably well stocked hobby store in the neighborhood that I was living in, and the fact that my wonderful wife encourages me in my many hobbies.  I have since been working on many models concurrently, mostly plastic ships and balsa airplanes which adorn our son's bedroom ceiling after we are done flying them.  I had been dreaming about building a Model Shipways kit for quite sometime before the opportunity presented itself.
 
First a promotion forced us to move, and in an act of self consolation I bought myself the US Brig Syren Kit.  Once we settled into our new place I realized that I needed a bigger desk if I was going to work on the Syren, so it sat and still sits patiently in it's box in my office.  Soon I came across something that really piqued my curiosity.  That was the Long Boat kit.
 
I thought that it would be a great place to start, on something that wasn't quite so detailed as the brig.  Additionally, it is of course a very handsome little model too.  I got the kit at Christmas, and started it a couple of weeks later.  I have been taking pictures during the process.  Over the next week or so I hope to post everything up to where I am currently at in my build.
 
So far it has been a very pleasurable experience, I am especially enjoying working with wood instead of plastic as a medium.  I feel as though there is a life in the material itself that I just do not feel with plastic.
 

I like milling my own wood, but I'm not up to harvesting it myself.  I understand that for some of the woods there are some special issues.  For instance if holly isn't harvested in the right season, and I think kiln dried, it ends up with grey spots.  I value my hands enough that I'm not going to use a chain saw, and haven't split logs since boy scout camp a LONG time ago.  It is a cool thing to do, and I wish you the best of luck.
 
Dave

Robbyn, you are seeing one of the reasons to convert to the dark side of scratch building (or at a minimum, aggressive kit-bashing).  Kits almost never include the material required for this approach.  We are lucky, however, to have vendors such as HobbyMill or the Lumberyard who can provide sheets of wood to replace the kit supplied materials.  Are you single or double planking?  If double planking, the thickness is typically 0.5-1.0 mm.  Sheet veneer could be used in that case and can be purchased from many sources.  When you purchase wood, be sure to get the right species.  The "walnut" provided in most kits is too brittle and the grain is too coarse.  Check out some of the scratch logs to see the species that are commonly used.  Swiss pear, pear, costello boxwood and pau marfin are all tight grained, easily worked with hand tools and are reasonably flexible. Regardless, considering your location, it is either a long drive or mail order.

Hello all! I am back. I jusat found out yesterday that the site went down completely, so I have spent some time getting back onboard and navigating the site. I will go thru my notes and attempt to re-create my build log. Comments welcome.

My old log was lost, as was the Hannah one.  After a lot of thought, I have decided to just restart both where I left off.  I didn’t save them, and given the choice between spending time on the computer and spending time in the workshop, it was an easy choice.


I’m looking forward to the workshop in 2 weeks.  I redid my keel (pictures below are the fifth redo).  I had originally planned to use the previous one, but had made that with the dimensions from the contract, which are slightly different than the plans.  When I made the framing jig and it was loose on the keel, I realized I might have other problems down the road, so I made another keel using the wood Greg sent.  I have also made the dead flat and dead flat one frames.




I’m going to hold for now and play with my new ropewalk. I don’t want to make any more frames until after the workshop as I think they will be a lot better after.
 
Dave


 

How To Add Pictures in your Posts and PMs
 
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A view of the completed Post with Text and Picture Added :
 

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PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS TUTORIAL IS FROM THE PREVIOUS VERSION OF MSW AND NO LONGER WORKS AS DESCRIBED. AN UPDATED VERSION WILL BE POSTED SHORTLY.

Welcome back. We have a lot of work to do. Fortunately I have all the Naiad posts saved as Word files and all the associated images, so I will be putting up the entire 176 parts as soon as I can. The model is approaching completion, so I do not expect more perhaps 10-12 new posts, but there has been enough interest in the old posts to make the effort worthwhile. We will all need to be showing a lot of patience for awhile.
 
I will also opening a topic in the book section for "The Naiad Frigate - Volume I. There are some content updates I want to share there.
 
I will also be reposting the 1:96 Victory Build log, but that will be taking a back seat to Naiad for awahile.
 
Cheers,
 
Ed

Work on the boiler is now complete, although it won't be mounted on the ship for a while yet until other work is done. The kit provides laser cut framing for the boiler and steam dome along with separate boiler ends and steam dome top. The parts all fit perfectly. The framing was then planked to reproduce the jacketing. The dome planking required extensive shaping by sanding on sandpaper wrapped around the boiler. I used boxwood for the boiler jacket and left it unpainted. It was finished with Wipe-on Poly. Bands were made from black painted paper for both the boiler and steam dome. Mounts for the boiler were made from stripwood.
 
The smoke hood and funnel were made for one end. The hood used laser cut framing that was assembled and then filed and sanded to shape. The funnel is a piece of dowel with the top drilled out. The funnel bands are also paper.
 
After assembly of the various parts, the detail items were made up and installed. Photoetched brass was used for the boiler door hardware.The steam pressure gauge was made from a slice of brass tubing, a disk of styrene, a paper face from the kit and a drop of Micro Kristal Klear for the glass. The various piping items were made using the kit supplied cast metal els and valves and aluminum tubing, as well as additional photoetched and wood parts and a piece of clear plastic rod for the sight glass. The piping work was painted using Polyscale flat aluminum ,with some red and black details.
 
The boiler is one of those things that is just fun to make.
 
Bob
 
 
 

Hi all,
Thought I'd reload my photo files of my AVS build. Hopefully useful for someone contemplating or making this great model. No words to go with the files but feel free to fire me a question if you wish.
 
Cheers,
Alistair
 

Hi
More photos.
 
Cheers
Alistair
 

This will be the last lot.
 
Cheers
Alistair
 

Just a couple more...
 
Cheers
Alistair
 
 

this is the first time that I have attempted plank on frame build, usualy I carve the hull shape from a block then fit keel and planking, then carve as much as I can from inside until I can see a light through, this project has taught me a lot,
 
first I think I have the pics in the wrong order but here goes first I cut out each frame using a fret saw the where the slots were on the kit I drilled a small hole at each end and cut it with "ya guesed it a jigsaw" 
 
I cut out the keel and false keel glued it up then started fitting the frames using the jig shown it makes the job much easier,
 
then came the planking well I dont need to say much about that there are enough articles on planking out there, next the fitting out the inside some bits are quite fidjety for my sausages but I manage,
 
I made the mast and other spars from beech bbq sticks run them in my dremmel to get the taper, I drilled a hole in a scrap of wood held it in the vice and run the dremmel then used a sharp knife to take of the thickest and finished with a few different grades of wet and dry paper,
 
 

John the sander is very light and vibrations are minimal. I have never had a problem having parts vibrate loose. Keep in mind that this thing is not like you typical 'power sander'. It is designed for refubishing scroll sawn furniture pieces. It comes with different attachments that refine the type of contours you can sand. You might do a web search under Black & Decker, Mouse to see more.
 
One of the pictures I showed above was when I decided to redo the deck of my Conny. I did not like the scratches and gouges I had and used the mouse to completely strip the deck. I did have to repaint the green bulwarks towards the bottom, but that was not too bad.
 
I might add one more comment. One of the reviews on the web mentioned that the person burnt out the motor. I think that is because some people put too much force on the little guy thinking that more pressure does a faster job of sanding. That, of course, is false. You should let the sander do its job and just guide it along. It comes with different grades of paper, etc.. etc..

Augie, what can I say. Your Syren is awsome. I need to get back to my build. I've neglected her for too long now. I know the site admins won't agree with this comment because of all the headaches, but this fresh start is great. Clean slate for everyone. We can all help make MSW better than ever.

Welcome home Adam!
 
She looks as good as always.
 
Thanks for re-posting.

This is just an introduction to the new build log for my Conny. I will shortly add details about my current status and highlights of my past log. Please, bear with me while I am getting used to the new format and revisit my memory banks.