Ryland Craze

Yeah…once I get back to Japan!  I’m all energized after Mannitowoc!!!

Do you have any illustration of what you mean by this?
 
It's basically a matter  of dividing the space available by the number of planks.
Have you looked at the planking videos by Chuck?   They show how to get a better fit of the planks by 'edge bending'.
 
 
Sometimes a " drop plank " at the bow will help you avoid planks that become too narrow at the stem.

A drop plank reduces two planks to one.  The problem with doing this with a kit is that it requires wider stock than the basic planking stock, so it may not be practical with the kit you are building.
You should be able to work around this by just making the ends of the planking more narrow than the drop plank would provide.
I assume we are talking bout the Sherbourne you are building, so I think you could get some ideas by looking at Chuck's Cheerful. The lines are very similar.
It is a single plank model, but the run of the planking will be much the same as your 2nd planking on the Sherbourne.
Chuck has the instructions for Cheerful at his Syren Ship Model Co. Here is a link to Chapter 4 which covers the planking below the wales.
 
 

Yes it is.  That smaller tower was built during WW2.  It was for radar and communications as well as other reasons.   It was then used after the war for using the foghorn and other things.  They removed most of the WW2 features but kept that one.  There was a pill box with guns on that bluff as well.  But that was also removed and they kept it alongside the gift shop for display.   They had a small barracks there as well and command center.   These other buildings are still around mostly and used by the parks dept.   
 
Chuck

Thanks guys....Had a lot of fun and will be back this evening...
 


 
One Note
 
I was contacted while away with an issue about frame 2F.   Its really weird because I cant replicate this.  My laser files for this 3/16" thick top timber shows the correct part for the top timber.   No worries though.  This is an easy fix.  I have not been contacted by any others so it may even be a one off thing.  But if you have the same issue.  Just send me a PM or an email and I will send you a new set of top timbers for 2F right away.  
 
Dont reply here .....send me an email or PM!!!!  Include your name and address info as well.   I will ship immediately.   I will cut a whole bunch when I return and have them ready to ship just in case anybody else has this same issue.
 

For 3-d printed resin, there is no release agent to clean off, like resin from moulds, as the parts are thoroughly cleaned with Isopropyl Alcohol to remove any resin once printed – so the only contaminants on these would be from handling only.

The new 3D molds look really good, especially with the inclusion of the windlass and davit. The resin does paint well with only a simple base acrylic primer. I use a Tamiya rattlecan (grey) for this and it's compatible with Vallejo paints.
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iPad screenshot: press the "Home" button and the "Power" button simultaneously and then release; a thumbnail will appear in the lower left corner which can then be tapped on to enlarge it with various file options (Save, share, delete, etc.). No "snipping tool" required.

Progress on the hull.
Post 2
 
The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751
This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.
 
Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762
With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.
I use Vallejo surface primer.
 
In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.
The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.
I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.
 
Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766
It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763
The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.
 
This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.
This was applied over the base and dry brushed.
 
With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772
The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784
Onto the internal fittings.
 
B.E.
23/05/2024
 

Looking forward to your Speedwell build log.  I know it will be an excellent build.

I am going to give a different perspective on the cost.  I have two hobbies.  Golf and model ships.  I spend $60 on a four hour round of golf ($15 per hour) and I spend $300 - $400 for a ship kit that I spend 500 - 1000 hours building (yes I am not very fast).  Add $200 for some basic tools and that works out to less than $1 an hour.  You certainly don't need power tools to build a kit.  I have spent some money on some tool upgrades, but those are nice to have and not need to have items.  The money an individual spends on tools can vary greatly, but there is no reason you can't get the basics for a couple hundred dollars.  The only power tool I don't think I could get by without is a power drill that I use when tapering a dowel for a mast or yard.  

Welcome.
 
Start with something small and inexpensive.  Open boat, fishing boat, a single mast at the most.  Something that can be quickly finished.  Check the post about those who start big projects and never finish.
 
 
Good luck with it….

For those of you who are interested, I thought you might like to see what an insanely talented card modeler (not me, obviously) can do by kit-bashing a rather rudimentary model. Scroll down to the pics at the bottom to see the scratch-built super-detailing. It's on a whole 'nother level.
 
MiG-3 at Kartonowki gallery

I have used store-bought inlay wood strips on a couple of models and think that it does add something to the look in a positive way.
Not all of us (including myself) can actually carve decorations for our ship models and this may be an alternative to that. I just substitute a planking strip with one of the inlays. They are usually the same thickness and bend fairly well to the contour of the ship. They also stain well.
Am I cheating? Are they too gaudy? Your thoughts?
 
SaturnV
 

 

The main fuselage sections are done now. Next I'll need to go back and mount all the little lumpy-bumpy parts.
 

You have done a very neat job there, Kevin.

that is the hull mainly complete, but everyone who knows me, i chop and change, and never start on page one and turn to page two, me im more of page 1, then 27 and back to 13
so whilst the hull was being built up, so was the superstructure, how ever i dont have so many phots of this jn progress
the funnel is flat packed and planked, with two brass panels at the base to create the flared shape
on top of the main superstructure the decking is also planked and painted
so
 sorry about lack of photos this was never going to be a build log
 






couple photos of the instructions, for bits i missed

Thanks for the reply. Since this thing was staring at me while waiting for the parts I went back and started beveling the other planks. Ran some dry fits and ended up increasing the garboard plank bevel as well. I'm feeling better about the bevels than I was before, I'll just need to make sure I pay as much time and attention to the port side when I get there.
 
Believe it or not, I still don't have the replacement sheet. Based on tracking, I'm expecting it to show up either today or tomorrow. Not all bad; the waiting has given me time to pick up a few extra tools, put together a more organized workspace, and read up on tips, historical accuracies, etc. I also caved last night from the Model Expo sales and ordered the next two boats in the shipwright series (the pram and lobster smack). The kit also came with the dory I'm currently working on so it may be interesting to revisit after founding these skills. I also picked up a non-beginner ship for a pretty good price.
 
Up until now I've been rummaging through a plastic bin to grab tools, leaving them in random spots on the table, on a nearby box, chair or floor. This will help keep me focused on the build, rather than searching for a tool I just set down.

Looking lovely.  I forgot what a beautiful shape this longboat has.  Yours is showing that elegant form very well.

Post 19
Cap rails and frames cont’d
 
Over the past week I have continued to work on the frames and Capping rails, slowly easing myself back into the build.
The starboard side is pared down using the same procedure as before.

4692
For sanding I used 320 grit paper.
 
With the Cap rails down to around 5/32” width the inboard sheer strakes can be fitted. 
These comprise two laser cut planks (1/32” x 5/32”) for each side, a bow section and longer aft section. The sections are pre spiled to take account of the bow round and sheer.
 
Having lost familiarity with the kit contents it took me a while to locate these which are on sheet ‘R’ of the planking sheets.

4725
The bow sections were wetted down and pre-formed around the bow before fitting.

4727

4729

4730
The inboard strakes have now been fitted, one or two spots of char to attend to but this section is nearing completion.
 
There is a bow knee to be fitted and the kit supplies laser cut pieces from cedar.
The kit part was not a good fit on my build requiring too much material removal and/or filler to retain the elegant shape.

4734
I remade the part from Boxwood sheet having taken a template, but even so this will still require some fettlin’ to get the hoped-for razor line fit to the capping rail at the bow.
 
 
B.E.
21/05/2024

Second planking done and sanded. Next will be stern post, a bit of filler then paint
IMG_8348.heic

Rusty,
 
Your work looks awesome! I'm at the stage of sanding the deadwood down and adding the wedges. 
 
I hope whatever was keeping you down is in the rearview mirror. Getting old isn't for the faint of heart. Two days before the Conference, I had some minor surgery and certainly wasn't going to miss that day! Keep up the good work!
 
Best Regards .... Rick

That company would be very very rich! And I would a steady customer. 🤣

If only we could outsource char removal. Hope you’re doing ok. 

Thank you Glenn and Chuck. Also, thanks for the likes!
 
Sorry for the delay getting back but like a lot of us as we age, we start falling apart and have to be put back together. On the mend and all is good, but work will be slow for the next few weeks. Before I went down for repairs, I completed the deadwood and wedges as well as added all the simulated bolts on the keel.
 
Over time I will have a lot of sanding and cleaning char in my future.

You could use machinist squares placed on each side of the frame and set the frame equidistant from the half breath lines on the plan.

Looking very good, Chris.  And please give Marilyn a gentle skritch from Vicky and me and Ballou.