hornet

I bought an Aeropiccola plank bender about 35 years ago. Have built 10 ship's with it and it is still going strong. I usually clamp it in a vice when bending planks over it. While the one shown in the link below has a different shaped head and no spring loaded roller (as the Ralt RA5 has) I think it would still work quite well if held in a vice and presoaked planks were bent over it.

http://www.hobbytools.com.au/electric-plank-bending-tool-240volt/

Hi Druxey. I have used heat and steam for over 30 years. However, there are still times, particularly on buff bows where you need something - planking screws - to hold planks in place until glue dries.

Cheers

Steve

I have used the plastic ones but screw shaft tends to come loose in the plastic over time. This can be remedied, in some cases, by applying heat and melting the plastic a little so it grips the shaft more tightly. Pushpins are great on the first planking of a double planked hull but tend to damage the second planking if you are not careful. I designed some of my own using plastic clothes pegs. I have posted the method of making these previously but here is the link fir anyone who has not seen it and may be interested.

Cheers

Steve

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3734-planking-screws-moved-by-moderator/

Dupree

I have found one advertised on eBay if that is any help to you.

Cheers

Steve

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Precision-Router-Base-For-Dremel-Tool-Freehand-Routing-Inlaying-Luthier-Tool-/111179440399

Pink cannon, cool

Hi PeteB

I found this one on the Bunnings website. Not as good as the one above but once you add shipping to the $55 US price tag of the Stewart MacDonald version I think it would be about 1/3 the price.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/dremel-plunge-router-attachment_p6373700

I found a YouTube clip as well

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oqu-Ni12oic

Cheers

Steve

I built my own router table for my proxxon mini router, but that looks like a great addition. I will investigate

Thanks

Steve

I usually knock up a few of these deadeye holders or resize ones I have used on past builds. They are made from tie wire which is cut to the appropriate length. The ends are then bent and silver soldered together so as to hold two of the holes in the deadeye on either end - you could probably twist the wire instead of soldering it. Mount the lower deadeyes on the channels/strops then fit the wire to them ensuring the length of each is the same. You can then proceed to adjust your shrouds/top deadeyes to the appropriate length.

Cheers

Steve

When I first constructed my rope walker (see link below) I intended it to be hand powered. This proved to be impractical so I ended up using the dial/variable speed controller from my Domanoff serving machine coupled with an inexpensive motor from an electronics store. I had intended to use a sewing machine motor and control pedal but I found that once the correct speed is selected there is little need for adjustment - just switch it off when complete - therefore a foot pedal was unnecessary. I know that you can get these type of dial/variable type speed controllers from any electronic store. Maybe this would be a simpler method you could consider.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/14464-inexpensive-powered-rope-walker/

Happy New Year to All

Steve

Hi Rick. You say that you 'shaved' your deck area down suit the transom. That is what I am suggesting too That is how I would describe what is done on the video. The ply deck and the ply support underneath is faired (shaved) to meet smoothly with the transom. The edge of the transom is also faired so as to allow for a smooth run of planks. I have taken a photo of the transom of my Mermaid. See below.

Cheers

Steve

Hi Cabbie.

It's been a while since I finished my Mermaid so I went back and had a look at the video on the ship's construction that I bought from Modeller's Shipyard to remind me what I did with this problem. In the video the deck is faired back to the transom. I took a photo of my tv screen on pause at this point in the video. See it below. Hope this helps.

Steve

Hi Tom

Miniature Steam - also based in Melbourne selling online - also stocks Admiralty Paints. These paints are acrylic, have excellent coverage, are historically accurate

and work very well in an airbrush. Link below.

http://www.miniaturesteammodels.com/admiralty-paints

Cheers

Steve

The paint that is sold by Caldercraft/Jokita is Admiralty Paint. It is acrylic and has very good coverage. The colours are supposedly accurate for 18th century ships. The yellow ochre is NOT bright yellow. I would best describe it as mustard. I have painted some on a slip of paper below. Total accuracy online is difficult to achieve because it very much depends on the screen you are viewing, but you get the idea. I have used it on my Caldercraft 'Supply' if you want to check it out, go to my gallery link below.

Cheers

Steve

Thanks Mark.

Post some pics when you've build yours.

Cheers

Steve

Nah Brian, I'll leave the commercial side of things to others who are much more qualified than I. I've got lots of great ideas from this site so I'm just sharing an idea that may spark others to create something similar - or better - for their own use.

Cheers

Steve.

Ha Ha Brian. Building one was enough.

Cheers

Steve

While completing my previous build, I was very unhappy with the anchor ropes supplied because they were completely out of scale. After some research I decided to build my own rope walker. It only cost me about $50 AU to make. The main cost was the motor and coupling. Perspex I had left over from another job and the variable speed/on off attachment from my Domanoff Serving Machine proved most useful. Mini bearings were very cheaply sourced from eBay. I have labelled each picture in an attempt to show how it was constructed. I intend to make as many ropes as possible for my current build - Caldercraft's Bounty when the time comes. Hope somebody gets some ideas from this post.

Cheers

Steve

Well I know bugger all about carving, but I have admired a number of Janos's creations over the last couple of years. One that springs to mind is the vulture he carved for Danny's build. I reckon he knows more about the subject than most of us. When this thread started, he was the first one I thought of. I was hoping he would share some of his knowledge, tricks and ideas with us. I'm sad to see him leave. :(

Julie Mo

Yep you are probably correct for modern boats such as those you have pictured. However, for period models (which take up a large portion of this site) gloss is not appropriate. I think that is what Jaager was trying to say anyway. I usually apply matte or satin polyurethane 50:50 with low odour turps using an airbrush. I apply 3 - 4 coats to the hull sanding very lightly between coats.

Cheers

Steve.

Agree with Jaager, matte or satin finish. Never gloss

There are some good suggestions on using Birchwood casey on this thread. I love the stuff

Cheers

Steve.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9781-blackening-brass-problem/?hl=%2Bbirchwood+%2Bcasey#entry289798

I use a plank bending tool. It heats up like a soldering iron. I have had it for over 30 years. It came from aeropiccola - not in business any more.

We've got a bit of red ochre down under as well. It is commonly known as Central Australia

I took a pic of a sample on a recent trip. The rock in the background is  quite well known. 

I built something similar to what Bluenose2 describes. It works well. I ended up putting a tap in one end for easy draining because the Admiral got somewhat sick of me spilling water all over the floor.

Cheers

Steve

Lennarth Peterrson's 'Rigging Period Ship Models' is usually on my bench when rigging commences. Few words but excellent diagrams.