hornet

Hi Paul

I also use bamboo skewers for treenails. I did some research regarding diameter using the treenails on the deck of the Endeavour Replica as a reference. See first link below b

[url="http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8317-to-treenail-or-not-to-treenail/"

In addition I made a tool for splitting treenails so they were easier to fit in a drawplate. See link below.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2959-treenail-detail-option/

I'll go with Pompey2. Caldercraft's range of Admiralty Acrylics are historically accurate and excellent quality. I now use them exclusively. They work very well with both brush and airbrush and would be perfect for the 'Victory'

Hi Don

Read through the thread below. It will give you some guidance as to the best kit brands for beginners as suggested by members of the forum. Remember that clear PLANS are probably more important than written instructions. Any confusion you may have can usually be cleared up by asking for help from this great forum

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12105-poor-instructions/?hl=%20best%20%20instructions

As well as a range of different grit sandpaper on different wood blocks, I use my Proxxon delta sander and pen sander.

The delta sander comes with a range of different grit pads and is great for sanding larger areas. The pen sander comes with different shaped attachments and is useful when getting into tight corners.

Vossey

I would also suggest you get a Squadron Super Glue Applicator. They are very cheap and deliver a small drop of glue to the back of each plate quickly and easily. Combined with tweezers, I found that fitting plates was made much easier than the method shown on the Modeller's Shipyard YouTube Clip ( applying a line of glue to the hull then putting on the plates) I managed to glue the entire hulls of my Sloop Norfork and the Supply without glueing my fingers together even once.

I bought my squadron applicator from Frontline Hobbies here in Newcastle, but I imagine they would be available in most hobby shops. See link below.

http://www.modelsrgo.co.uk/squadron-tools-precision-super-glue-applicator.html

Well I can vouch for Cornwall model boats. The plates I ordered were very quick in getting here and (at that time) were less than half the price of Modeller's Shipyard (including shipping)

Vossey

I bought copper plates for my current build - HMB Supply. After a lot of searching, I found it was cheaper to buy them from Cornwall Models in the UK. That was when the Aussie Dollar was worth more though. Modeller's Shipyard will sell them to you but they are hideously expensive.

Float A Boat in Melbourne may have them. They are not listed in their catalogue but it s out of date. It would be worth calling them. Nice people to deal with.

http://www.modelshipyard.com.au/fittings/copper-plates-sheathing/

Just make sure you don't put the second layer of planking over the copper plates. :)

Hi Vossey

Link below.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9JWlSFzJ8uA

Steve

Hi Vossey

Modellers Shipyard/Modellers Central has put out a DVD on the art of hull coppering. I bought it and found it OK for a beginner. I think part of the DVD is on YouTube. You may find it useful.

For me the choice was too, too difficult so I bought the lot.

Jbshan, you mention `plank separation' in your post regarding single layer of planking. My first build (over 30 years ago) was the Aeropiccola `Golden Hind.' It was single planked. The book `Period Model Boat Manual' which I bought at the time (don't know if it is still in print or not) recommended `caulking ' the inside of the hull to prevent this happening. This was done by layering bandage dressing `gauze' into the interior of the hull and coating with thinned wood glue. It was a similar method to fibreglassing.  I used the method and after 30 years still no cracking or plank separation. See pics below.

extract from `Period Model Boat Manual'

Hull of the `Golden Hind' 33 years after construction (no plank separation)

Ulrich, because are only using sandpaper to reduce the diameter of the dowel, you may be able to fix the dowel into a collet after drilling it out and sand it back using your hobby drill clamped in a vice. I am assuming that you have a hobby drill that uses some form of collet.

On a recent build, drilled through the centre of a small diameter dowel using my drill press and then turned the dowel down to the desired diameter using sandpaper on my lathe. I then cut the parrel beads to length and carefully sanded the ends. It was fiddly but worked well. The beads were around 1.5 mm in length but could be made even smaller. See below

Alternatively, you can buy beads in a range of sizes and colours from sewing shops. See below.

I have been using an Aeropiccola heat/steam bender for over 30 years. Works well for me. See my post about it from another thread below.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/602-how-long-do-you-soak-the-planks/page-2?hl=%2Bplank+%2Bbender#entry216387

I have used both basswood and balsa. I found that balsa was very soft when trying to screw in planking screws. I partially solved the problem by giving them a few coats of a PVA and water mix. When dry this firmed them up a bit. I still preferred the basswood though.

Have you looked at this resource? I know that I found it useful.

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/BowandSternFillerBlocks.pdf

Steve

I have the Caldercraft Version 'On the Shelf'. I have been through the box. As with all Caldercraft kits fittings and plans are good. Walnut hull planking strips are so so. I anticipate doing quite a bit of scratch work as I have done with the Caldercraft 'Supply' but I'd be happy to recommend it.

I WOULDN'T recommend the Dremel Multivice (pictured below) I purchased one a while ago and am very disappointed in it. Adjustment is sloppy and the jaws are 'wishy washy'

Steve

You may find this useful - as long as you can get past the Aussie Accent

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bSyVTYBwOmc

Jaager

I have found a supply of old linen and cotton threads is available at antique and collectible stores. Apparently the actual wooden spools are now seen as collector's items. They are never more than a couple of bucks to buy. A few from my collection sure shown below.

Spend the extra and buy a compressor designed for airbrushing. They are small, portable and best of all very, very quiet. If I tried using my regular compressor for airbrushing, the Admiral would probably have me walk the plank. I have a Sparmax (see link) it is a ripper.

http://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Sparmax-TC-610H-Airbrush-Compressor.html

Least enjoyable - Corel Victory. I didn't have the skills to take on this beast at the time. In addition instructions were awful. Took me 20 years off and on to complete.

Most enjoyable - current build Caldercraft 'Supply'. I have scratch built almost all of the fittings, learned how to use and airbrush and how to silver solder while working on her.

I have this sander. Yes, you do need to purchase a transformer for it - Proxxon make a couple which are fairly cheap. You can buy a single outlet transformer or one with multiple outlets just in case you invest in other 12 volt tools.. The pen sander comes with a variety of different shaped attachments. Sanding pads fit onto these attachments via an adhesive backing. From my experience, the pads don't last very long but they are inexpensive to replace. I don't use mine a lot, but it is good for getting an even sanding job done on hard to get at spots such as the edges of a deck. It is not a 'must have' but is inexpensive and handy at times.

Thanks for the responses. I have seen a lot of the scientific model around. Does anyone have any comments on these? Ragove I have not heard of JoTika but I will check them out.