hornet

Hi Terry

 

I used balsa for bow and stern fillers on my 'Supply'. I gave the balsa a few coats of watered down PVA glue after shaping and fitting to try and give it a little more strength and stability. It worked OK. On past builds I always used pine blocks as fillers and I think I will go back to them on my current build. While the pine is a little tougher to shape, I think it provides a more solid base for the planking screws to screw into when holding planks in position while glue is drying. This is particularly the case when dealing with buff bow sections or some of the tight curves which occur at the stern. There is a great tutorial on shaping bow and stern fillers in the planking and framing link on the NRG site. If you haven't read it, I suggest you do.

 

Steve

Terry

 

I ended up making my own pintles & gudgeons (rudder hinges) for my HMB Supply. See link below. Good luck with your build

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4679-the-kit-bashers-guide-to-the-galaxy/page-5

 

Steve

I used to store all my threads in an old fishing tackle box but got sick and tired of them getting jumbled and tangled so I thought of an alternative. I drilled holes ( at an angle) along the edge of some scrap timber. I lined some nails up with the holes and then placed my spools of thread on the nails and pulled the ends through the holes thus creating a dispenser of sorts. I have a few like this. I have collected quite a lot of 'antique' cotton and linen threads from antique and collectible shops. They are relatively cheap - apparently the spools are collectible - and, in my opinion, are often better quality than the modern stuff. Hope the idea helps someone who also suffers from tangled thread syndrome.

 

 

 

Cheers

Steve

Hi Mark.

 

When I first built my rope walker, I was hoping for it to be hand powered. However, if I wanted to make up a rope of a decent length it was far too slow to be practical. I now run mine with a variable speed battery operated drill. It is much easier. I've not seen the ME one but I would guess you may have the same problem with it as well.

 

Steve

You can also make your own rope walk. I have done this using Lego, scrap timber, perspex and a few screws, nuts and bolts. It may not look as flash as commercially bought rope walks but it cost me very little and does the job. There are lots of ideas that you can copy ou YouTube.

Just re-reading this thread and realised that the number and size of plates for the Amati 1:60 version could be similar to my current build the Caldercraft Bounty (1:64) Supplied with this kit are 800 plates which you can get from Cornwall model boats. I bought some from them a while back for my HMB Supply build. It was actually cheaper to get them from England than buy locally - although our $$$ has dropped in value somewhat since then

They come in packs of 100

 

Hi Terry. Having completed this build myself, I can say that there is very little literature out there about her. I used the Sydney Powerhouse Museum model as well as some contemporary paintings (found on the net) as a guide. Also used Dan V's and Dfel's models ( in kit gallery). I found that the most useful resource was 'Rigging Period Ships' by Lennarth Petersson. It was most helpful as the rigging plan in the Caldercraft Supply seemed to be somewhat 'Dumbed Down' for beginners. Best of luck with her, I look forward to following your log.

 

Steve

I have a number of Proxxon tools including a scroll saw. Haven' t had any issues yet. Proxxon tools come with a 2 year warranty. If it were me I would return it to the supplier rather than stuff around with it and perhaps void any warranty.

 

 

Hi Robbyn

 

Check this one out.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9JWlSFzJ8uA

 

Steve

After watching that clip, I am glad I left my Victory unpainted

I agree with the above posts. I have a badger Model 200 single action brush. It is a little beauty.

Michael, in addition to the advice given above I would suggest you go for a single action airbrush. I have both a single and double action brush and have been using both for a couple of years. The single action is usually cheaper to buy than the double action. It is easier to use and clean. It does a great job when painting small and large areas. I assume you will be using acrylic paints as they are much easier to clean up and dry a lot quicker. I use Admiralty paints exclusively. They give good coverage, are authentic colours and can be thinned with water for use in an airbrush. My recent build, HMB Supply (in my gallery) was almost completely painted using a single action airbrush and Admiralty Paints.

 

Cheers

Steve

Hi Nick.

 

I have had one for about 18 months. It has done a lot of work in that time. I have found it to be robust, accurate and very quiet. Changing disc pads is easy and quick. You should be happy with your purchase if you decide to get one.

 

Steve

After mixing and using acrylic paint in my airbrush, I store the surplus in syringes which I seal with the end of a nail. I have stored paint this way for many months. Syringes are available cheaply on eBay and I have made stands to store them. Being transparent makes it easy to determine the colour of the paint and being stored in a syringe makes it very easy and economical to reuse the paint.

 

 

In addition, also available on eBay, are plastic bottles designed for storing acrylic paint for use in an airbrush. These are also quite economical to buy. Search airbrush supplies on eBay if interested.

 

I have a vacuum next to my to my workspace which removes any sawdust very soon after it s created. I also have a CAT who enjoys seeing how far she can belt anything that has been left out overnight or chew anything that looks remotely edible. Needless to say this encourages me to put things away after use maybe you should get a CAT????

 

 

Said CAT waiting for her opportunity to create havoc:)

You are correct Daniel it is 1:50. Your build leaves it for dead though

 

Cheers

Steve

Hi Captain Steve

 

I use a similar method with a bit of a 'twist' so to speak. I have taken two different diameter brass nails and cut off the heads. I filed one side of the top of each nail flat so that I could drill a 0.8mm hole through each. The nails were then whipped into dowel handles. Using two different diameter nails allowed for different sided rings and hooks. Rings are produced in the same manner as you demonstrated except that I start by placing the brass wire in the hole before wrapping it around the nail. This allows more 'grip' and produces a 'tighter' ring. Hooks are made similarly. I place one end of the brass wire in the hole, bend to shape then cut the wire, reverse it and bend again. I usually then place them in my fly tying vice and silver solder before blackening with Birchwood Casey Brass Black.

 

 

Cheers

Steve

Hi Siegfried

 

Just discovered your Mercury build. It looks great. I have built this one myself - from the kit by Modeller's Shipyard/Central. Could I ask, is this based on that kit or is it a totally scratch build?

 

Also, earlier in your build log you stated that the Mercury is depicted on the Australian $10 note. It is in fact depicted on the Australian $20 note along with its owner Mary Reibey. She was a VERY interesting character. If you have not read about her, she led a very interesting (and long) life. I have scanned a $20 Aussie banknote below for you to have a look at and a brief biography of Mary as well.

 

http://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/reibey-mary-2583

 

 

Cheers

Steve

Agree 100% John. I reckon there are countless unfinished Corel Victories around the world that were purchased by inexperienced builders who became disillusioned and gave up. At the time I bought mine ( mid eighties) it was half price - Unfortunately I couldn't resist a bargain

 

Cheers

Steve

Hi Mike

 

I have suggested this before on this forum but here goes.

 

One of the most valuable tools in my collection is my fly tying vice (designed for tying fishing flies) It will hold very small items without crushing them. I tend to use it for tying blocks and rigging. I usually use small alligator clips to hold items when airbrushing, but I see no reason why it couldn't be used when painting. There are many inexpensive fly tying vices on eBay and amazon.

 

Hope this helps you

 

 

Steve

G'day, I've also built this kit twice for two different clients and had no problems with the instructions or plans, I definitely would not throw the instruction book in the bin, if you study the instruction book you can see the correlation between the code numbers in the book and on the plans, especially in regards to the rigging and once you grasp this then you should have no problems,

 

  best regards John.

You probably have a point John, but I still think that the instruction booklet ( not the actual plans) were pretty daunting for an inexperienced builder - at least that is what I found at the time. I gave up on them and used the plans alone. Reading back through them now (over 20 years and 8 builds later) they are a little easier to follow but still bloody awful in my opinion.

 

If it were me, I would not put heat anywhere near the side of that build. The heat transfer through the brass would almost certainly melt or distort the plastic. Why can't you snip the eyebolts off flush with the hull, carefully drill out the shafts and then build the eyebolt/chain/ strops off the model. The eyebolts could then be epoxied back in place - just my 2c worth

Hamilton.

 

I have a total of 10 different Proxxon Tools including one of their Scroll Saws. All have a small footprint and are reliable and accurate. You won't go wrong if you buy one of these. I also ave about 8 different Makita tools in my 'big shed' - not the scroll saw though. Can't fault any of them either. If it were me, I would probably go the Proxxon. It is a very quiet saw.

Hi Barbossa.

 

My current build - Caldercraft 'Supply' did not have crowsfeet in the plan either, but I decided to include them. Before drilling the holes required to fit the crowsfeet, I glued the two pieces ( lower tops & lower tops rim) together, then drilled through both using my drill press for accuracy. I only needed to drill 0.8 mm holes as the thread I used to produce the crowsfeet was 0.25mm so there was plenty of room to thread through the holes. If you are worried about the fact that the front of the lower tops rim is only 2mm wide, why not shape and fit anther piece of ply behind it? In fact the laser cut ply that the lower top rim was cut from would already be in that curve. The join could then be filled with a PVA and wood dust filler. Once painted back - I assume you would be painting it, it would not be noticeable.

 

One of my crowsfeet is shown below, admittedly the tops rim on the Supply appears to be a little wider than the Diana, but I think it could still be done.

 

 

Hi Chris. There are a few ideas on making coils in the following thread. I devised a method using transparent plastic 'counters'. It works very well for any sized coils/thread. Check it out below.

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1310-making-rope-coils/?hl=%2Brope+%2Bcoiler#entry210607