hornet

Hi Danny

I bought flags for a couple of previous builds from this mob. I was happy with the quality and like the fact that they accept Paypal. Delivery from the UK took a couple of weeks. I intend placing an order with them for my current build as well as the Bounty and Endeavour.

Cheers

Steve

According to its blurb it is supposed to work on pewter, brass, copper, solder, tin/lead alloys, lead , nickel and bronze. Pretty comprehensive claim I would say.

Sounds to me like you did everything right John, at least what you did is exactly what I do with Birchwood Casey. I have used Jax Green Patina solution with good results but cannot speak for Jax pewter Black as I have away been pleased with the results from Birchwood Casey and have not seen the need to try anything else. Have you tried the Jax Pewter Black on any other of the metals it is supposed to work with?

I use plastic see through counters and pushpins. See method on page one of following thread.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1310-making-rope-coils/?hl=%2Bmaking+%2Brope+%2Bcoils

I agree with Jim. However, if you are not yet ready to have a go at a full scratch build, do what I've done and partially scratch build a kit. On my current build the Supply I have scratch built the windlass, capstan, ship's boat & oars, rudder (including gudgeons and pintels) tiller, stern facia and windows, skylight, railings to the stern deck, as well as tree nailing the deck, copper plating, modifying the gun carriages and adding water ways. I also made new anchor ropes because the ones that came with the kit were out of scale. I intend to modify the rigging using Peterson's book as a guide. There is a lot you can do to a bog standard kit to make it more interesting, challenging and authentic.

Hi Harvey

I solved this problem by using an old wooden desk (a school desk in fact) I chopped the legs down to the size that I felt comfortable with and added castors. The desk lives under my main work desk, which is an L shaped office desk. When I want to work on rigging, I just roll it out. I also fitted this desk with a hinged top so I can store scrap wood and clamps in it. I left the back of the desk open and I store strips and dowel in it. Hope this may give you some ideas.

Desk is stored under main desk - castors fitted

Desk rolls out when needed for rigging or for extra workspace

Desk lid lifts up for storing scrap timber and clamps.

Rear section of desk for wood strips and dowel.

For me the desk is at a comfortable height for working on upper rigging.

JAX GREEN PATINA also does a great job when applied to copper plates - gives an authentic look for those who do not want a bright 'copper' finish on a hull.

I would say that filler blocks are only necessary at the bow and stern so you have something to assist you in both affixing the planks and achieving the correct shape. There should be more than enough bulkheads for you to attach your planks with some type of planking screw between these blocks. Just make sure you fair in the bulkheads with a file or sanding block before beginning planking

Birchwood Casey is also available on EBay.

If you have one, a band saw is ideal for 'roughing out' the shape of your filler blocks. It allows you to achieve the curves much more accurately.

Hi Banyan

I dug out another pic from my collection of the Endeavour Replica. It may help you. If you are able to zoom in (this pic was cropped from a larger one)you will see that the Topgallant leading shroud has not been served along its full length. It appears to be only served at the top and from just above the crosstrees and down from there. The other shrouds seem to have been served in the same manner. Hope this helps.

Cheers

Steve

Don't know if this helps but here are some pics I took of the shrouds/ratlines on the Endeavour replica recently.

Spyglass.

It is not always the case that the treenails are invisible. Check out the photo I took on board the Endeavour Replica and posted on another treenailing thread a while ago. They are quite visible in this case.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8317-to-treenail-or-not-to-treenail/

Obviously a more 'pointy' bow is much easier to shape than a rounded bow such as on the Endeavour.

My advise is to:

1. work on s simple model that does not require too much planking. There are plenty on the market.

2. Calculate the width (approximately) of your planks as they taper towards the bow and stern before you commence planking.

3. Use filler blocks at the bow and stern (even if the kit doesn't include them) as this really helps when shaping an supporting planks. These can be shaped from bass wood.

4. Get or make yourself some planking screws. These really help to hold planks in place while they dry.

5. Always shape your planks in pairs ( port and starboard together) so you end up with a symmetrical result.

6. Never taper your planks to less than half their width at the end ie a plank that is 5mm wide should not be tapered to any less than 2.5 mm.

7 Use a quick drying PVA glue in combination with a CA gel. The CA gel is great when applied to the ends of planks. To holds them in place while the PA glue dries.

8. Get yourself a good quality plank bender - preferably one where the planks are soaked then heated to bend- make sure they are dry before you fit them.

9. Make sure you buy a model that is 'double planked'.' You can then afford to make some mistakes on the first layer, fill, shape then apply the second (thinner) layer of planking.

10. As to your question about the lengths of planks, I think that for a beginner, longer planks are better. They are easier to shape and bend. You will find that you need shorter 'stealer' or 'drop' planks at some point in your build. These are shorter and more like a wedge. They are often applied at the stern.

Take your time and don't be afraid to take planks off and refit if they don't look right. I have planked 10 models over the last 30 years and am still learning

Hi Bryan

I too have a proxxon Lathe. I use it all the time. Recently finished turning all masts and yards for my HMS Supply with it. It is a great tool. Speed is infinitely adjustable and collets allow you to work accurately with very small dowel or square timber. I also used it to turn up very small oars for my scratch built ship's boat on the deck of the Supply and the scratch built capstan. I also turn up pedestals for my model stands. It is worth the money - one of my favourite mini power tools.

Cabbie,

I have found Petersson's books to be very helpful. This Aussie Online seller has good prices too!!

http://www.thenile.com.au/search?s=Lennarth+petersson&x=0&y=0

I get my Birchwood Casey via EBay. Jaycar electronics sell a lot of soldering stuff. They do online orders as well.

I agree with Brian, that's how I do it too. I use brass or stainless screws.

Excellent review. Much appreciated!!!!!

I built the Corel version. I wouldn't recommend it unless you are very experienced.

Rick, I think you are right about the boats. They look identical to the ones supplied with the Perseverance and Mermaid - which were plastic. I think this may be the case with other manufacturers as well though. The Caldercraft Supply ( my current build) did not even come with a ship's boat. I actually used the plan from the Modellers Shipyard Sirius Longboat (which I reduced to a length of about 8cm on a photocopier) and scratch built it. It turned out really well - better than anything I could buy.

I think you may be right Frankie. I checked out the Sirius Website and there is a good diagram of the bow section. The bowsprit on the model does seem to be a smaller diameter than the one in the diagram. ( link below)

http://www.hmssirius.com.au/the-early-years.html

This kit is not 'new.' Modeller's Shipyard (modeller's central) was selling it some years ago. The rumour was that it was that it was taken off the market due to design faults - I'm not sure if this is true but it looks like they have resurrected it - they must have fixed the problems that existed in the earlier version ???????? This kit is considerably cheaper than the original which (from memory) sold for around $1100 (AU)

Hi again Cabbie

Yes the outer stunsail boom rings are attached with brass tubing (1mm) which I bought cheaply on ebay. However you could do the same thing with brass wire. The copper sheeting I used was about 0.2 mm thick. I can't be exact as my vernier callipers aren't the new fangled digital type and I got it quite a while ago and don't remember the thicknesses. However even the thicker stuff bends very easily and can be moulded into all sorts of shapes. I have two thicknesses of copper sheet, one is a little thicker, probably 0.3 - 0.4mm. Both are good and easier to use (in my opinion) that brass. Silver soldering isn't hard and adds another dimension to the hobby.

Hi Cabbie

Welcome from a fellow Aussie. I have to concur with DocBlake in regard to just drilling a hole and using the whole eyebolt. I might add you may wish to consider buying a sheet or two of copper (quite cheap on ebay) and using it instead of brass sheeting. I have found that is easier to bend, blackens easily as well and is very easy to silver solder. I have done a number of jobs where I have silver soldered copper sheeting to brass wire or tubing. The pic below shows some scratch built inner and outer stunsail boom rings. The joins arrowed in yellow have been silver soldered ( brass tubing to copper sheeting) the ones arrowed in red were drilled through the copper and directly into the dowel. I found that the silver soldering blackened well using Birchwood Casey Brass Black.