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hornet

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Everything posted by hornet

  1. hornet
    Nah Brian, I'll leave the commercial side of things to others who are much more qualified than I. I've got lots of great ideas from this site so I'm just sharing an idea that may spark others to create something similar - or better - for their own use. Cheers Steve.
  2. hornet
    Ha Ha Brian. Building one was enough. Cheers Steve
  3. hornet
    While completing my previous build, I was very unhappy with the anchor ropes supplied because they were completely out of scale. After some research I decided to build my own rope walker. It only cost me about $50 AU to make. The main cost was the motor and coupling. Perspex I had left over from another job and the variable speed/on off attachment from my Domanoff Serving Machine proved most useful. Mini bearings were very cheaply sourced from eBay. I have labelled each picture in an attempt to show how it was constructed. I intend to make as many ropes as possible for my current build - Caldercraft's Bounty when the time comes. Hope somebody gets some ideas from this post. Cheers Steve
  4. hornet
    Julie Mo Yep you are probably correct for modern boats such as those you have pictured. However, for period models (which take up a large portion of this site) gloss is not appropriate. I think that is what Jaager was trying to say anyway. I usually apply matte or satin polyurethane 50:50 with low odour turps using an airbrush. I apply 3 - 4 coats to the hull sanding very lightly between coats. Cheers Steve.
  5. hornet
    Agree with Jaager, matte or satin finish. Never gloss
  6. hornet
    There are some good suggestions on using Birchwood casey on this thread. I love the stuff Cheers Steve. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9781-blackening-brass-problem/?hl=%2Bbirchwood+%2Bcasey#entry289798
  7. hornet
    I use a plank bending tool. It heats up like a soldering iron. I have had it for over 30 years. It came from aeropiccola - not in business any more.
  8. hornet
    We've got a bit of red ochre down under as well. It is commonly known as Central Australia I took a pic of a sample on a recent trip. The rock in the background is quite well known.
  9. hornet
    I built something similar to what Bluenose2 describes. It works well. I ended up putting a tap in one end for easy draining because the Admiral got somewhat sick of me spilling water all over the floor. Cheers Steve
  10. hornet
    Lennarth Peterrson's 'Rigging Period Ship Models' is usually on my bench when rigging commences. Few words but excellent diagrams.
  11. hornet
    Mark I have done similar jobs using silver solder. You can purchase what you need - including a micro torch - from Jaycar. Cheers Steve.
  12. hornet
    Get yourself a cheap fly tying vice - used to make flies for fishing. There are plenty of cheap ones available on eBay. I use mine extensively when rigging. Steve
  13. hornet
    I am currently building the Caldercraft version. I'm happy with the quality except for the walnut planks included or the second layer of planking. I've built the Caldercraft Supply and have the Caldercraft Endeavour on the shelf. This is an ongoing issue with Caldercraft. I wish they would look at improving the quality of this timber. The only consolation is that they provide plenty of planks. Plans are OK but I am using the the A.O.T.S - Bounty - as well. I will also probably scratch build many of the fittings. Steve
  14. hornet
    This clip should help you. It's the method I use too. https://m.youtube.com/watch?autoplay=1&v=WUrRb66VSSE Steve
  15. hornet
    It is also available on iBooks. I read it recently too - well researched and written!!
  16. hornet
    Building scratch deck furniture is my favourite part of a build but I do enjoy rigging. I have just built my own motorised rope walker and will be making my own ropes for my current build - The Bounty - when the time comes. This should make rigging even more satisfying.
  17. hornet
    This is grating and how it is assembled.
  18. hornet
    That is exactly what they are Richard. They can be cut to size for different sized grates then framed all around with some timber the same height. I found that the easiest way to make them was to dry fit them together them drop the grate into a bath of thinned down wood glue. Let them soak for a few seconds then allow to dry on greased or oven bake paper (so they don't stick)
  19. hornet
    Cardboard drink coasters are great for making up templates for items such as filler blocks.
  20. hornet
    Terry Below is a pic of the stern of the Powerhouse Museum Model as well as the stern of my Supply (My Supply on top). I used a piece of black card and glued the timber frame of the windows to it - then glued the windows to the stern. The `glass' was in fact a 2 part clear epoxy which is used to cover/protect the 'whipping' on fishing rod guides (I also build my own fishing rods) but I suppose you could use clear plastic for this.
  21. hornet
    Hi again Terry Have you taken a look at the stern photo of the model of the 'Supply' in the Powerhouse Museum in Sydney. I used it and a contemporary painting (which I cannot now find) to build stern windows for my Supply. Cheers Steve
  22. hornet
    Terry Adding another level of 5mm planking to the top then sanding it back with a sanding block is exactly what I would do too. It's all a learning curve Cheers Steve
  23. hornet
    Hi Terry Looking Good. One thing I did notice from your photos, and you may already intend to rectify this, is that the top layer of planking on the bow section is not the same distance from the deck for its entire length (it tapers towards the front) See arrowed copy of your photo below. If left like this it is not going to look right and it will also be impossible to drill hawser holes through the front for your anchor ropes (not wide enough) Once the bow piece (part 23) is fitted only 1 - 2 mm of it should be above the level of the top planks at the bow (and it should be sloping upwards towards the front) so that you can fix the bowsprit to it. I've added a couple of close up pics of my Supply to illustrate what I am getting at. Hope this helps. Steve
  24. hornet
    Hi Ken. Got them from eBay. Item listed as follows: Blunt dispensing needle syringe needle tips 4" 14 gauge. cheers Steve
  25. hornet
    When painting with a brush I used to work straight from the jar/bottle but I found this was often a little messy. Recently I purchased some dispensing needles and syringes very cheaply on eBay. These are great of removing paint from a bottle with the minimum amount of mess. They are also great for sucking out all unused paint from the bowl of my single action air brush. I also made up a simple paint palette using bottle tops glued to a piece of wood. I used some new bottle tops left over from by 'brewing' days but I am sure used ones would work just as well. The inside of the lids were lined with plastic so they were easy to clean (I only use acrylics) after use. Combined with the dispensing needles it means I can reduce mess and wastage when completing fiddly jobs with a brush. Cheers Steve

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