Rick01

It's a slow process due to a few personal matters but I will finish this!

I've now completed the planking, it's very different to my previous work with cutters and there are a few patch and fill items on the hull but from a metre away they don't show and as I don't feel competent to strip it down and re-do I am happy with the result. Photography isn't my best subject but you can get some sort of feel for the end result here. Bumper strips are next on the work list - here the plans show them being fitted pre-stained but the instructions go on to tell you to stain after fitting!! Generally I feel the instructions are not exactly brilliant and do need careful reading well ahead of anything you may be working on.

Decking comes next. Here they just suggest laying down full length planking then marking up into shorter lengths using pencil, no real clues as to the lengths that one would expect on real decking nor any suggestions as to waterways along the gunwales. I can't find any good photos on-line for the real thing so finishing the deck will be guesswork at this point.

Rick

I've just started the second planking, not my favourite bit as I much prefer rigging. However it has to be done and currently I'm moving slowly with a couple of strakes a day being fitted.

Pinning a reluctant section in place.

Only another 10 per side to fit. I commenced tapering after the second stake was fitted and on the second strake after the garboard plank, so far it's going smoothly.

Rick

I'm afraid I was a bit slack with my first few photos, but hopefully after this things will improve.

The next problem I found was at bulkheads 8, 9 and 10. When laying a strip of wood along the bulkheads 9 had low spots so that I either had to remove masses of wood in order to get a smooth line or pad it out. I chose to add a small section of .6 mm Lime and then when it came to 1st planking sand the padding to adjust the flow. Without that I had a dimple appearing in the cladding. At the same time it was obvious that the planking did not follow a line based on the tops of the bulkheads or the decks which is apparent from the following photos.

From there I had fun trying to plank it as the flow of planking at the bow didn't exactly follow what I've been used to with previous models. It does look a bit like a dog's breakfast but I preferred to experiment on the first layer rather than completely stuff up the final planking.

I did search Google for photos of actual dhows, those I found of similar size and showing reasonably clear planking seemed to follow a system of "if it fits/fills the space" then that's OK. 

Rick

I haven't put a build up for some while now - life get's in the way at times. But I've now ventured into slightly different craft to my usual style, it was the lines that interested me in this one.

Firstly excuse the really bad photography - absolutely NOT my best subject.

Everything was nicely packaged and it all seems to be there.

The parts fit well with no play and the centre piece was straight.

Decks also dropped in easily and sat flush to the bulkheads. 

Here however I started to have problems, looking at the fit here you'll notice that the deck projects past the last three bulkheads on the lower deck. The other side is perfect and the centre line matches the centre piece (sorry forgot to photo from above). I had to sort this out at the point of 1st planking.

Instructions leave a bit to desire, plenty of photos but so small that detail is poor and without a large magnifying glass those of us with senior eyes have trouble working out what they are attempting to show.

Rick 

You still need to make a case for it, otherwise dusting will be a major pain! 😉

Rick

Looking good! One hint for your next build - with the blocks, try to sand the edges slightly to get rid of that square look. It's a real pain but it is worth it. Some people tumble them but I've never been good enough to make my own tumbling machine so it's a matter of gripping the block in fingers or tweezers and gently sanding the edges.

Rick

A tip for making iron work such as shown on your anchors - matt black card cut in strips and soaked in PVA glue works wonders. It's all I use where strips of black iron are needed.

Rick

1 hour ago, Freezing Parrot said:

That's definitely something to be proud of! I bow to your skill, sir!

Thanks Mike - I had good plans to follow and honestly it's more a "workman like" model than anything else. It is fun to get  one uder your belt once you've knocked over a couple of kits.

Rick

Here's what happens when you've kept the plans, have a pile of left-over timber and get bored.

Using the original plans, I re-modelled the deck layout, fitted heavier armament and jiggled a few other bits and pieces. 🙂 Must say I like the idea of the party ship! 

Rick 

Actually if you check the Gallery for contemporary models you'll find a number of variations for naval cutters, mainly in the deck furnishings, with one or two around the windlass. 😉 

Rick

One of the best bits about this kit is that it isn't a model of an actual ship. This means you can get a bit inventive if you want to and no-one can say "that's wrong" unless of course you start playing with ideas from another era.

Rick

Check a few other builds for a comparison, generally they would appear almost straight on a 1/64 scale model. With mine I've always tried to get the sag right out of the ratlines.

Rick

Is it possible to tighten them a little? I know it's pretty labour intensive but the end result is worth the time.

Rick

1 hour ago, mtaylor said:

Now if I just find a left-handed monkey wrench

Don't know about that but the kids won't use my hand saws, nor my hammer. They swear that they all have a slight left bias which is probably correct when you think about it!

Rick

I know the problem all to well. Any sort of electrical saw can be a nightmare! 

Rick

I gave up on the rigging instructions fairly early on, grabbed my copy of "Rigging period fore and aft craft", followed the American Schooner illustrations and also found as many photos of the replica as I could to help work from.

Rick

Did you glue the mast in place? I've always left mine "free" and that's allowed a certain amount of adjustments to rigging tension. One thing I've noticed, the foot ropes for the main spar look to be hanging a little low. Remember that these would only be low enough for a man using them to lean over the spar at the waist, so really probably scaled down from around 1 metre. 

Rick

If you're spacing them around 1 cm apart then you.ve only another 54 to go and around 200 + knots (depending on how many need re-tying! 😉 I usually manage around 10 ratlines each session, then my shoulders and eyes start protesting.

Looking good.

Rick

The beauty of the first planking is that you can stuff it up pretty badly and still get away with it with careful sanding and filling. Additionally using PVA glue it's not impossible to remove some planking if it goes horribly wrong. With one of mine I had to strip nearly half off one side, it had just got a mind of its own!

It's a learning curve and first planking is a pretty good exercise, just treat it as that and take your time.

Rick 

Can't go past this advice for a good build. I took around 8 months to complete mine, I didn't complete a build log at that time I'm afraid so no pictures. 

Remember when doing research that this is not a model of an actual cutter, but a representation of cutters in general. This allows you more scope in finishing. It's a nice model and fun to build.

Rick

No - part of the reason for the rabbet it to take the first layer, as I mentioned this will then provide a smooth run and with 2nd planking at .6mm it will all fall in place neatly. You do need that area to taper off smoothly and at the moment you have a bit of a hump there, if you don't want to try removing and re seating then a bit of judicious sanding should work.

Rick

You should also have taken those first two planks right up to the stern post, otherwise you'll have a nasty lump instead of a smooth run to the keel and stern post.It's not too late to CAREFULLY remove those two plank and replace with one's running the full length of the ship. I know they'll be slightly damaged but the can still be used elsewhere.

Rick

Figure 4 almost has it.This is a light weight yard and as such, I'v a lift going from the yard tip, up through a block lashed to the mast then down to a belaying pin on the pin rail surrounding the mast (obviously this refers to each side). Which pin you use is dictated by ensuring the halyard doesn't chafe on any other lines.

Rick

No worries - glad to help here. As this isn't a model of a specific cutter feel free to make any variations you want, it does make a pleasant little kit.

Rick