Thistle17

I heeded your warning regarding the upper/lowercounter positioning Glenn. Sure enough if I had proceeded with the placement of just the lower counter as I thought correct I would have been off the mark for the upper counter. I have repositioned and dry fitted the lower counter and also dry fitted the transom "skin". I have marked the correct positions and now it is a matter of fine tuning so the upper counter will dock where it is required. Thank you again you are saving me some pain and agony!
Joe

Just a brief update on our trek to completion of this waterline model. Amongst many elements of detail to be added to the model this is one of the final ones. The radar dome is 5.5 inches in diameter and3 inches tall. It was turned on a large lathe as it was too big for my Sherline. Even though it was hollowed out of basswood save for a hub it still weighs about 0.7 pounds. It will be the last thing mounted given its properties.
 
In the catergory of "I should have known better". The basswood was in my basement shop trove for some 10 years at a humidity level of around 50%. The completed dome was brought to the musuem workshop and over 2 weeks shrunk given the quite low RH there. The banding around the base was wrapped and glued 0.20 AYC (cedar). The effect as you might expect was a warped band. The only practical solution was to wrap the lower base in an automotive tape and paint over the entire assembly. It now sits in a sealed plastic bag awaiting final install. Here's hoping!
 
Joe

Yes Glenn I suspected this and have dry fitted the placement and even marked the placement on the aft side of the frames at least 3 times. The lower/upper junction intersection is indeed a caution. Moldings can't hide everything. Thank you.
I was on the phone with Rustyj yestrerday and he too was quite helpful. I value everyone's advice.!!!! Where else but here could there be such a helpful community!!!!!!
Joe

I am taking your advice Glenn and began the process of planking the lower counter. As I approached strake #5, in a dry fit mode,  I encountered a bit of interference with the stern post. I have checked and checked every aspect of the stern framing and the remade frames A and B. They are pretty much on. Rather than fight this I have decided to premark the stern post cutout at this stage and "prep" this area for removal while on the bench. I Have also included the relief in stake #5 to get around the interference problem. I will allow some tune up real estate once that stage is reached on the model.
 
It isn't that long ago that I remember my difficulty with Cheerful's stern post relief so I have to assume in the long run I will be more satisfied with the outcome.
 
Joe

Yes Glenn I suspected this and have dry fitted the placement and even marked the placement on the aft side of the frames at least 3 times. The lower/upper junction intersection is indeed a caution. Moldings can't hide everything. Thank you.
I was on the phone with Rustyj yestrerday and he too was quite helpful. I value everyone's advice.!!!! Where else but here could there be such a helpful community!!!!!!
Joe

A suberp execution! You should be very proud of your work.
 
Joe

I am taking your advice Glenn and began the process of planking the lower counter. As I approached strake #5, in a dry fit mode,  I encountered a bit of interference with the stern post. I have checked and checked every aspect of the stern framing and the remade frames A and B. They are pretty much on. Rather than fight this I have decided to premark the stern post cutout at this stage and "prep" this area for removal while on the bench. I Have also included the relief in stake #5 to get around the interference problem. I will allow some tune up real estate once that stage is reached on the model.
 
It isn't that long ago that I remember my difficulty with Cheerful's stern post relief so I have to assume in the long run I will be more satisfied with the outcome.
 
Joe

Thanks for the coaching Glenn. I have hesitated on the counter planking but will do so now.Your postings is one I follow closely. Your progress is amazing.  I have to develop some rythm for my build. The stop, start method I seem to be in just makes the build more arduous.
I am not sure I mentioned it before but I worked in Dallas for a year back in 1973 - 1974 on Mockingbird Lane at the corner of I35. Lived in Denton. That was a 32 mile trek to and fro on I35. It was crazy then has to be a white knuckle drive now I would imagine.
Joe 

Glenn I wish I were at the planking stage. It has been one interruption after another mostly family needs. I did finish and deliver a display table to my daughter and am wrapping up a portable stand for my Sherline lathe ( I will debut it a bit later). As I work in our study/computer area I have to constantly work to keep the area clean. In addition Winchelsea is so big I have had to come up with a temporary" work bench extension". The lathe stand will help solve that problem as it can support the model when not serving the lathe.
 
So Winchelsea has suffered. As witnessed by this post where I am asking for a little guidance. I have been fairing the stern area after "plinking away" on the gun port framing. I have used a number of MSW builder references including Chuck's postings for stern faiting. To me it seems a bit subjective as to how to achieve the desired end point.The attached picture (with mark ups) shows my progress on this critical area. I have rough formed one of the fillers that will "land" the planking for the port side. Using fairing strips it appears close to the correct taper torward the stern but still needs tapering towards the port side. I have crudely marked that area in green.
 
Secondly the stern post area still appears to need contouring all the way down (up) to the filler. This suggests that frames 29, 28 and 27 need much more sanding to an even more wine glass contour.  Am I correct here?
 
And lastly it appears the bottom side of frames C and D need little to no tapering towards the stern save for the side. That appears to need some build back. Again am I correct?
 
Joe

And thank you Glenn for the encouragement and alert. I have been looking ahead and have anticipated the need in this area. I am plodding ahead with the gun port lower sills as I write this. Indeed boring and annoying as the placement of those members is such a pain. I have found that the only good way to fit those members is to use my Byrnes sander and carefully tune them to fit. It is surprising that with all the time I took with the bulkhead positioning that I find when using Chucks measurement of the members right at the strong back by the time I get out to their extremities they are quite different! I have had to clamp them in place to hold their position in most cases. I will also add the members in the areas where the gun ports are absent to make the assembly more rigid.
 
One amusing thing I found was that my "clever" method to hold the fragile uprights in place with spot glued battens had to be removed to make the sill and filler install work as I had no lateral movement capability.. Seemed like a good idea at the time!
 
I do have one question that maybe folks can help me with though. I have yet to run across an indication of just how thin the inside of the uprights of each bulkhead should be sanded after I finish the hull planking. Is there a measurement stated somewhere?
 
Joe

Thanks for the coaching Glenn. I have hesitated on the counter planking but will do so now.Your postings is one I follow closely. Your progress is amazing.  I have to develop some rythm for my build. The stop, start method I seem to be in just makes the build more arduous.
I am not sure I mentioned it before but I worked in Dallas for a year back in 1973 - 1974 on Mockingbird Lane at the corner of I35. Lived in Denton. That was a 32 mile trek to and fro on I35. It was crazy then has to be a white knuckle drive now I would imagine.
Joe 

I am taking your advice Glenn and began the process of planking the lower counter. As I approached strake #5, in a dry fit mode,  I encountered a bit of interference with the stern post. I have checked and checked every aspect of the stern framing and the remade frames A and B. They are pretty much on. Rather than fight this I have decided to premark the stern post cutout at this stage and "prep" this area for removal while on the bench. I Have also included the relief in stake #5 to get around the interference problem. I will allow some tune up real estate once that stage is reached on the model.
 
It isn't that long ago that I remember my difficulty with Cheerful's stern post relief so I have to assume in the long run I will be more satisfied with the outcome.
 
Joe

Glenn I wish I were at the planking stage. It has been one interruption after another mostly family needs. I did finish and deliver a display table to my daughter and am wrapping up a portable stand for my Sherline lathe ( I will debut it a bit later). As I work in our study/computer area I have to constantly work to keep the area clean. In addition Winchelsea is so big I have had to come up with a temporary" work bench extension". The lathe stand will help solve that problem as it can support the model when not serving the lathe.
 
So Winchelsea has suffered. As witnessed by this post where I am asking for a little guidance. I have been fairing the stern area after "plinking away" on the gun port framing. I have used a number of MSW builder references including Chuck's postings for stern faiting. To me it seems a bit subjective as to how to achieve the desired end point.The attached picture (with mark ups) shows my progress on this critical area. I have rough formed one of the fillers that will "land" the planking for the port side. Using fairing strips it appears close to the correct taper torward the stern but still needs tapering towards the port side. I have crudely marked that area in green.
 
Secondly the stern post area still appears to need contouring all the way down (up) to the filler. This suggests that frames 29, 28 and 27 need much more sanding to an even more wine glass contour.  Am I correct here?
 
And lastly it appears the bottom side of frames C and D need little to no tapering towards the stern save for the side. That appears to need some build back. Again am I correct?
 
Joe

Just a brief update on our trek to completion of this waterline model. Amongst many elements of detail to be added to the model this is one of the final ones. The radar dome is 5.5 inches in diameter and3 inches tall. It was turned on a large lathe as it was too big for my Sherline. Even though it was hollowed out of basswood save for a hub it still weighs about 0.7 pounds. It will be the last thing mounted given its properties.
 
In the catergory of "I should have known better". The basswood was in my basement shop trove for some 10 years at a humidity level of around 50%. The completed dome was brought to the musuem workshop and over 2 weeks shrunk given the quite low RH there. The banding around the base was wrapped and glued 0.20 AYC (cedar). The effect as you might expect was a warped band. The only practical solution was to wrap the lower base in an automotive tape and paint over the entire assembly. It now sits in a sealed plastic bag awaiting final install. Here's hoping!
 
Joe

Just a brief update on our trek to completion of this waterline model. Amongst many elements of detail to be added to the model this is one of the final ones. The radar dome is 5.5 inches in diameter and3 inches tall. It was turned on a large lathe as it was too big for my Sherline. Even though it was hollowed out of basswood save for a hub it still weighs about 0.7 pounds. It will be the last thing mounted given its properties.
 
In the catergory of "I should have known better". The basswood was in my basement shop trove for some 10 years at a humidity level of around 50%. The completed dome was brought to the musuem workshop and over 2 weeks shrunk given the quite low RH there. The banding around the base was wrapped and glued 0.20 AYC (cedar). The effect as you might expect was a warped band. The only practical solution was to wrap the lower base in an automotive tape and paint over the entire assembly. It now sits in a sealed plastic bag awaiting final install. Here's hoping!
 
Joe

Glenn I wish I were at the planking stage. It has been one interruption after another mostly family needs. I did finish and deliver a display table to my daughter and am wrapping up a portable stand for my Sherline lathe ( I will debut it a bit later). As I work in our study/computer area I have to constantly work to keep the area clean. In addition Winchelsea is so big I have had to come up with a temporary" work bench extension". The lathe stand will help solve that problem as it can support the model when not serving the lathe.
 
So Winchelsea has suffered. As witnessed by this post where I am asking for a little guidance. I have been fairing the stern area after "plinking away" on the gun port framing. I have used a number of MSW builder references including Chuck's postings for stern faiting. To me it seems a bit subjective as to how to achieve the desired end point.The attached picture (with mark ups) shows my progress on this critical area. I have rough formed one of the fillers that will "land" the planking for the port side. Using fairing strips it appears close to the correct taper torward the stern but still needs tapering towards the port side. I have crudely marked that area in green.
 
Secondly the stern post area still appears to need contouring all the way down (up) to the filler. This suggests that frames 29, 28 and 27 need much more sanding to an even more wine glass contour.  Am I correct here?
 
And lastly it appears the bottom side of frames C and D need little to no tapering towards the stern save for the side. That appears to need some build back. Again am I correct?
 
Joe

Glenn I wish I were at the planking stage. It has been one interruption after another mostly family needs. I did finish and deliver a display table to my daughter and am wrapping up a portable stand for my Sherline lathe ( I will debut it a bit later). As I work in our study/computer area I have to constantly work to keep the area clean. In addition Winchelsea is so big I have had to come up with a temporary" work bench extension". The lathe stand will help solve that problem as it can support the model when not serving the lathe.
 
So Winchelsea has suffered. As witnessed by this post where I am asking for a little guidance. I have been fairing the stern area after "plinking away" on the gun port framing. I have used a number of MSW builder references including Chuck's postings for stern faiting. To me it seems a bit subjective as to how to achieve the desired end point.The attached picture (with mark ups) shows my progress on this critical area. I have rough formed one of the fillers that will "land" the planking for the port side. Using fairing strips it appears close to the correct taper torward the stern but still needs tapering towards the port side. I have crudely marked that area in green.
 
Secondly the stern post area still appears to need contouring all the way down (up) to the filler. This suggests that frames 29, 28 and 27 need much more sanding to an even more wine glass contour.  Am I correct here?
 
And lastly it appears the bottom side of frames C and D need little to no tapering towards the stern save for the side. That appears to need some build back. Again am I correct?
 
Joe

Just a brief update on our trek to completion of this waterline model. Amongst many elements of detail to be added to the model this is one of the final ones. The radar dome is 5.5 inches in diameter and3 inches tall. It was turned on a large lathe as it was too big for my Sherline. Even though it was hollowed out of basswood save for a hub it still weighs about 0.7 pounds. It will be the last thing mounted given its properties.
 
In the catergory of "I should have known better". The basswood was in my basement shop trove for some 10 years at a humidity level of around 50%. The completed dome was brought to the musuem workshop and over 2 weeks shrunk given the quite low RH there. The banding around the base was wrapped and glued 0.20 AYC (cedar). The effect as you might expect was a warped band. The only practical solution was to wrap the lower base in an automotive tape and paint over the entire assembly. It now sits in a sealed plastic bag awaiting final install. Here's hoping!
 
Joe

Now that the model has been moved back to the museum it is receiving the attention it deserves. The director of the museum supported the effort by purchasing an airless paint gun with adjustable nozzle patterns. Since the hull had more than enough time to cure the oil thinner" based paint it was decided to spray the hull with latex. I must say it was a hugh improvement over the earlier attempt. Chuck, the director was able to keep a wet coat and as noted the results were quite pleasing.
 
After months, no years, of a bare hull we could not resist dry fitting some of the major components to give ourselves a boost to "bring the project home". Shown in the accompanying photos we temporarily placed the pilot console and the armament sheilds in the helm area. And of course we had to witness the forward gun tub resting in the hull. Also note the venturi is now in place and some of the helm area braces (not shown) have been added. It is amazing how even the little things contribute to the character of the project.
 
Standby as we will be installing signal and radar masts, attennas, aft gun platform, canopy framing and all the other previously mentioned elements.
 
Joe

Just a brief update on our trek to completion of this waterline model. Amongst many elements of detail to be added to the model this is one of the final ones. The radar dome is 5.5 inches in diameter and3 inches tall. It was turned on a large lathe as it was too big for my Sherline. Even though it was hollowed out of basswood save for a hub it still weighs about 0.7 pounds. It will be the last thing mounted given its properties.
 
In the catergory of "I should have known better". The basswood was in my basement shop trove for some 10 years at a humidity level of around 50%. The completed dome was brought to the musuem workshop and over 2 weeks shrunk given the quite low RH there. The banding around the base was wrapped and glued 0.20 AYC (cedar). The effect as you might expect was a warped band. The only practical solution was to wrap the lower base in an automotive tape and paint over the entire assembly. It now sits in a sealed plastic bag awaiting final install. Here's hoping!
 
Joe

Just a brief update on our trek to completion of this waterline model. Amongst many elements of detail to be added to the model this is one of the final ones. The radar dome is 5.5 inches in diameter and3 inches tall. It was turned on a large lathe as it was too big for my Sherline. Even though it was hollowed out of basswood save for a hub it still weighs about 0.7 pounds. It will be the last thing mounted given its properties.
 
In the catergory of "I should have known better". The basswood was in my basement shop trove for some 10 years at a humidity level of around 50%. The completed dome was brought to the musuem workshop and over 2 weeks shrunk given the quite low RH there. The banding around the base was wrapped and glued 0.20 AYC (cedar). The effect as you might expect was a warped band. The only practical solution was to wrap the lower base in an automotive tape and paint over the entire assembly. It now sits in a sealed plastic bag awaiting final install. Here's hoping!
 
Joe

Now that the model has been moved back to the museum it is receiving the attention it deserves. The director of the museum supported the effort by purchasing an airless paint gun with adjustable nozzle patterns. Since the hull had more than enough time to cure the oil thinner" based paint it was decided to spray the hull with latex. I must say it was a hugh improvement over the earlier attempt. Chuck, the director was able to keep a wet coat and as noted the results were quite pleasing.
 
After months, no years, of a bare hull we could not resist dry fitting some of the major components to give ourselves a boost to "bring the project home". Shown in the accompanying photos we temporarily placed the pilot console and the armament sheilds in the helm area. And of course we had to witness the forward gun tub resting in the hull. Also note the venturi is now in place and some of the helm area braces (not shown) have been added. It is amazing how even the little things contribute to the character of the project.
 
Standby as we will be installing signal and radar masts, attennas, aft gun platform, canopy framing and all the other previously mentioned elements.
 
Joe

A fine modeler was one of his talents. A kind, supportive, sharing person were among the qualities he revealed to me. My condolences to his family and friends who had the good fortune to be in his life.
Joe

I have tracked your work since I discovered this site some years ago. Your work is always inspiring.
 
As the saying goes "love like youth is wasted on the young". One might draw a comparison to ship modeling and modelers. General health including sight, dexterity and the like, most needed for modeling alude us as we age and when we are most apt to be into this pursuit!
 
Wishing you a speedy recovery. Be patient with it.
 
Joe

Brad I started with a scratch built hull (bulkheads, false keel or strongback etc.). Even though they were accurately machined using a CAD/CAM approach they have given me some grief. In part because of the inferior plywood I purchased. At this point I have completed the port gun ports, installed my second transom assembly and partially installed the starboard gun ports. I have expended too much energy and time to get to this point. Were I to do this again I would have thought better of starting from the point I did! This is an extremely well designed kit and would have been much easier had I started from the intended point. I have built other models from Syren.
 
Just a caution.
 
Joe