Jump to content

davyboy

Members
  • Posts

    712
  • Joined

  • Last visited

2 Followers

About davyboy

  • Birthday 12/03/1940

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Binningen Switzerland
  • Interests
    British naval warships 17th and 18th centuries. Travel in S.E Asia. Reading.

Recent Profile Visitors

4,125 profile views
  1. Thank you Trevor,one always learns something new. At the end of the day however they all serve the same purpose. Dave
  2. Interesting names,Chafing mats or Service. I've always known these by the old name baggywrinkles. Dave
  3. I've never used bits of paper as templates. There is usually a standard distance between Ratlines of 12" to 15" ",I use 12". A piece of wood 1/4" wide (I build in 1:48th) clipped across the shrouds below where the first ratline is to be rigged. Rig the ratline then clip your piece of wood directly above it and rig the next and so on. The beauty of doing it this way is you can ensure good alignment of all your ratlines with out struggling to align them with lines on a sometimes wobbly piece of paper. It works very well for me,try it. I'm sure I read this tip here on the forum years ago. Dave
  4. Hello Wefalk, That practice is called pollarding and is still carried out to a limited degree in England for various reasons. Plenty of information on google and other search engines. Dave
  5. Hi drftrman, Cruizer was my first ship model a long time ago. Don't worry about the bulkhead tops,at a later stage of the build when the hull is planked they're cut off. Just lightly tack glue the gunport patterns to them for that reason after fairing. I found that out the hard way. Have fun with your build,plenty advice on the forum,you just have to ask. Dave
  6. Hi Maurice, She's looking good. These fashion pieces look much better than that shown on the prototype build. The Speedwell has exactly the same arrangement on the lower counter,I suspect that would be fairly common construction practice back in the day on small ships still using the older style square tuck . I'm currently chipping away at the boxwood carved figures of the two ladies ornamenting Speedwell's tafferel,then there are other smaller pieces to be done. Heigh Ho,get there eventually I guess. Dave
  7. Have you tried sticking it to a backing piece of thin (1/8" or so plywood) I can't speak for styrene but I successfully cut 0,015" copper and brass sheet doing that on my Proxxon KS 230 saw using their thin fine toothed # 28020 50mm blade. Just take it slowly so you don't melt the styrene plastic. Dave
  8. While my interests lie in the 18th Century it is an absolute joy to see your wonderful metalwork Valeriy. Dave
  9. Hi Maurice,I see you've started already,lots of fun ahead for you. Dave
  10. Not a good idea,think about it. Throwing a towel over a rotating chuck or for that matter any rotating object Dave
  11. Hi JimO, There is a very good build log of her at 1:45th scale on the forum by a Belgian member who posts under the name Baker. May be of some help to you. Also welcome aboard MSW. Dave
  12. Simply done. I just run a length of aluminium tape on both sides of the blade when I use their 0,5 mm blade. When I use their wider blades I simply remove the tape. Dave
  13. It works perfectly,I've been doing that for ages on my KS230 when using their 0,5 mm blade. Best to remove the splitter then you can tape right to the back. Dave
  14. That brought back a few memories for me. Back in the 1960's I was in the RAF and stationed in Bahrein our sea angling club used to regularly go on weekend fishing trips on Arab boats. No such luxury as a sponge on a stick there,a packing case hung over the stern with a plank knocked out of the bottom and a bucket on a rope for ones ablutions. No one I knew took bog paper with them Happy days,at least the sea was warm there.
×
×
  • Create New...