davyboy

Post One Hundred and fifty
 
Completing the ports
The two  enclosed Qtr deck ports remained to be done.
Usual top hinged lids into the Great cabin, and a pair of side opening doors into the Coach and Bed space.

3660
I thought I had done with queries about ports, but I’m not entirely convinced why side opening doors are shown in the position they are, constrained by Mizen chains which only allow  them to open half way.
 
They are a feature usually found in positions above the channels, or at the foremost bow port, where space is restricted.

2231
This shot onboard Victory taken when I blagged my way onto the Poop deck shows similar doors in place.
 
The photo also has other interesting features. Note the tube thro’ which the port lid lanyard goes inboard, and that the port only has one lanyard presumably due it being of lightweight construction over a Qtr deck cabin.
 
The final interesting feature for detail fans is the knot secured on the Mizen channel.
 
This is the reason at the time I wanted to look over the Poop.
The knot secures the Rudder pendant which attaches to the chains and is used to control the rudder should the tiller lines be shot away.
 
Back to INDY..
Notwithstanding the above, the side doors do make a nice feature and provide additional interest to the build, more so if displayed closed.

1901a
I used a normal port lid as it makes more sense to me.
 
Stern Ports
There are two stern ports engraved on the lower counter, the plans show use of provided hinges (PE47) over the patterns, but I didn’t seem to have sufficient to do this, but the Laser board Syren straps filled in nicely.

3794
This is not a very prominent area of the model but that is no reason not to enhance it.
3796
Addition of double lift rings and lanyards complete the effect.

3800
The trickiest part is securing the lanyards thro’ the lifting rings using a false splice.

3799
Getting the needle thro’ the 0.3mm line is a severe test of my aging eyesight.
 

1900a
Still lot to do on this build.
 
B.E.
26/02/2024
 

HI brunnels,
 
I have a pack of identical looking blades which I inherited about 20 years ago. They are called Balsa hobel klingen (plane blades) manufactured by a German firm called Martor in Solingen. I've only ever used them for scraping decks etc,they're good steel and hold an edge. I suspect your blades are likely a product of the PRC.
 
Dave   

HI brunnels,
 
I have a pack of identical looking blades which I inherited about 20 years ago. They are called Balsa hobel klingen (plane blades) manufactured by a German firm called Martor in Solingen. I've only ever used them for scraping decks etc,they're good steel and hold an edge. I suspect your blades are likely a product of the PRC.
 
Dave   

Hi there, this is cherrywood. I did it with a small chisel and a cutter on a Dremel. I would say, cherry is very well to use for carving.

Amati sells such blades like this one, but have a look around as there are different types of them.
But this plastic tool is not designed to cut such thick strip as the 4x4. For that one you will need a saw. The use of this is to make repeated cuts by the same length or same angle, like cutting deck planks from thin strip (after adding a stop to the tray). 
If you can't cut the strip by a handheld knife, neither this tool will do. 

Why would one cut 4 mm x 4 mm wood with a gouillotine and not properly with a saw?
 
There are probably several factors that led to the blade failure in these application: too thin blade, blade sticking out too far, and not stiff enough tool. All these are inherent in the tool, which probably wasn't designed for such an application. If you'd use a stronger/thicker blade, something else will break or wear quickly.

As always, thanks for the likes folks.  I finished a few different things over the last week.  I spent time shaping the rudder.  Using the plans I drew the lines that I would sand down to on the rudder faces and sides.  Doing this gave me the visual cue to not over or under sand.  Once the rudder was done I cut out the rudder port.  I made a paper template from the plans that I used to get the shape correct.  Next I made the top of the rudder post.  This took way more time than it should have.  I accidentally removed too much material from the laser cut piece.  So I would up gluing on a chunk of scrap wood to that piece and then shaping the whole thing again.  Sometimes it's the one little piece of wood that is the biggest pain!  The last thing I did was shape the 6 timber heads.  This was a bit nerve wracking as a newbie, but they turned out OK.  The photo below shows the tools that wound up working best for me (as well as a rough cut timber head before clean up).  For some reason, on any model I build, I'm most comfortable using either a #17 or #18 X-Acto chisel blade with no handle (rather than a #11 blade w/handle).  I know it's weird, but it gives me more control by holding the blade directly.  The overall height of the timber heads match the plans, but my angled faces are not as tall as the plans.  No big deal really since all 6 look the same.
 
The next thing I'll be working on is the boom crutches.  Wish me luck!  Haha.
 
Erik

Hi, and thanks to all
 
 

Hi, and thanks, Loracs and Druxey, and thanks to all
 
 
 
 


 
 

Good morning Group,
 
After some spending some time in the doldrums, I have restarted Le Gros Ventre and spent the past month working on this assembly.  I probably built each part a half dozen times...
 
Decisions, do I begin the installation of the frames or tackle the other really tough part of the build, the hawse extensions?

Finished nailing off the deck,built the hatchways for the coal storage and access to the light room and powder magazine, have the first three deck beams made up in the bow so I can secure the posts for the riding bitts and the bowsprit support 

Well, I've given up on wire - I'll be using wood instead. I feel more comfortable with it and I think I can produce a better result, even if it isn't an exact reproduction of the real thing. For the uprights, I've used bamboo toothpicks. Here's the hull with paddlewheels and deck equipment attached (I still have to work out a way to mass-produce the passenger seats), plus the awning upside down with some toothpicks attached, to mate with corresponding holes in the deck.

Here's the hull (upside down) with the deck glued to it.

And the awning dry-fitted to the hull.



Starting to come together. This is my half-size test piece. I've learnt a few things that will help make it easier to make the full-sized model, and subsequent mass-produced (simpler) half size models for sale.
 
Steven

Andy - I am still awaiting the CAP delivery from Amazon. It is not a problem because I had my second eye done a few days ago so I am banned from all dust making opportunities at the moment. I am busying myself sorting a huge pile of my kids lego back into its original sets for the benefit of my grandchildren. Presumably this is an exercise that will be repeated until the end of time. Chaos, order, chaos, order etc. etc.

I finished with this little decorations:





 

phoenix raises from the ash
 

 
 
This is first time i have priviledge to build from boxwood at will and Im quite perplexed how beautiful this wood is not for carving only but for bending as well. its pure joy to work with and I am delighted how helpful this is. So I finished starboard side from wells up. Sharp eye wipll spot my usual sinful things as unnecessary repairs. It was constant pressure on me whether planks would meet upper end correctly, so there it is. After brute thorough  sanding boxwood colors out almost white. im not sure what final treatment  to use for it. tung oil? one can spot not advanced fancy modeling here as cutouts around gunports...
its quite obvious how this shape  differ from english tradition shapes, being fattest at the prow thinning slender aft. and how shallow is foreship curvature. I like most enter of forecaatle opening up outwards of deck providing splash protection. its really modern  cathedral of ships. 
as far as moldings, according compendium, streak between double   molding between gunwales and channel strip can be black or yellowˇ I tried to leave it natural not sure if permanently. maybe later on i will paint it black so it will provide one color up down molding shape.   so far i like it this way too. well there will be longer because  as I have worked franatically in this and my fingers need rest. thank you for looking in and any comment  etcetera....
I dont like looking at bare skeleton,  finally this long passage is behind me and part of boat is coming up.   there is now other side to be done. same work same challenge. and now million dollar question. treenail or not :))) ://// hm hm. i guess i will do. i never tried it before. 
 
outward strake shape  is my favorite one. 

 
better view....
 

damn there she goes...
upper deck gunwales closer. 

most important curvature of entire ship. 

2 mm thick strakes ...and holes before fairing. . I like idea bowsprit hole is just underneath front small deck...so so but 4 mm molding just fitted. barely but...will work on it later.
 

on the aft side its "just there". 
 
curvatures...

overall...
bowsprit support
simple doors opening with one ugly seam
moldings are quite substantial 

gunport sill detail 
 

 
 

First, an update on the fires. They're still going and it's likely to be hot and windy on Wednesday - https://www.abc.net.au/news/2024-02-25/vic-fires-ballarat-beaufort-raglan-bushfires-warnings/103509258 . Here's a map showing where everything is relative to Ballarat (it's the outlined area - where the "Sovereign Hill" sign is - one of our most popular tourist attractions).

Most of the surrounding area is pretty sparsely populated. The firies are preparing containment lines in preparation for Wednesday to protect nearby Beaufort and Lexton, which are fairly small towns. The surrounding areas are farmland - mostly grassland. The fire is at Bayindeen and surrounds, in rugged forest country, which is why the firies are having trouble controlling it. Fortunately, though there have been property losses, people have been sensible and left home before they were in danger and there have been no fatalities. Residents of Beaufort and surrounds have been evacuated to Ballarat and nobody has been allowed to return home yet. Unfortunately, bushfires are a fact of life in Australia, and the mild, fairly wet summer has provided perfect weather for foliage growth this year. Hopefully, the hot weather will break fairly soon and if we get heavy rain it will take care of the fires.
 
Looking at happier news, here's some progress on the build.
 
Even though I've got a fair way into carving the steersmen I think I'm going to need to re-think them yet again. I've worked out where the tillers will be and though the faces have turned out quite well and the arms are pretty much in line with the test photos, and these guys' arms seem to be in the wrong position to control the tillers.
  
  
  The tiller acts totally opposite from the standard one for a stern-mounted rudder - instead of running forward from the pivot point it runs aft, and I'm still trying to get my head around how that works. I either need to correct that (reorientation of the arms) or make a whole new pair of steersmen. More test photos needed, I think.
 
Also, one of the steersmen has his head rather too far from his shoulders - look a bit like the Sphinx. Either replace him completely (as above) or a headectomy and move the offending piece lower down.  
 
  
  
I'll play with them a bit and decide what to do. I don't really want to waste all that work on the heads and faces, but they may just be beyond fixing.
 
Next point - I stretched some silkspan on a frame and painted it with dilute acrylic paint - but it seems to have developed fine wrinkles or puckers in the surface. I think you can see them in this photo.

I'm not so concerned with the larger wrinkles - I can probably just avoid using the bits that have them - but those fine ones seem to be right across the surface and just look wrong. I think I applied too many coats (it was quite a lot - I was trying to make the silkspan translucent instead of transparent ). I think this is beyond saving, and I need to try again, with fewer coats of paint - perhaps with more acrylic in the mix, just be satisfied with it still being a bit transparent. Any comments or suggestions?
 
Steven  

Post One Hundred and forty-nine 
 
Thinking more about Gunport lid fittings
Before I start the gunport fixing on the Starboard side, my mind keeps returning to those single lanyard fittings.
 
The provided port lids look pretty enough and the brass etch versions provide an easy fixing to the hull with the combined hinge, port stop and flexible tangs for fixing the lid to the hull in the open position.
 
However, I do like to make changes to enhance historical accuracy where I can, and I think Indy should really have double lanyards.
 
On a model the size of Indy, particularly Navy board style, such detail gains more prominence, not having all the top hamper to distract the eye.

3763
Revision One
I have mocked up a revised port using a spare port lid.
I am using Syren laser board rudder straps, cut to size to act as the hinge straps.
These conveniently have nail holes pre-drilled, the bottom one is drilled thro’ to take the ring bolts for the lanyards.
 
The tricky part is representing the port hooks that secure the hinge.
For the purposes of my exercise, I have used separate tiny segments of Boxwood.
The final touch is to add spots of pva to represent the bolt heads.
 
This would work for closed ports but for open ports wire would need to be inserted in the top edge to replace the tangs on the kit version.
 
Revision Two
I had abandoned an early attempt to drill thro’ the bottom bolt head of the kit  hinge due to broken bits. 
I resolved to try again.
 
I filed the bolt head flat and started the hole with an awl. This time I was able to drill thro’ using a 0.6mm drill in a pin vise without breaking the bit.

3772
I secured the hinge to my mini anvil using double sided tape. 
The ideal solution would be if the hinges could be pre-drilled during manufacture.

3780
Modified hinge straps on the Fore port. The example above it is the laser board version.

3781
The forward of the three port lids will be displayed open.

3782
So, the starboard side ports are fitted with correct double lanyard fixings, and the Port side for a central single lanyard.

3748
Perversely, I think the single lanyard arrangement has a better aesthetic.
 
One last thought on gunport lids:
The second and third ports from the bow, adjacent to the Galley, are without lids. These ports lie beneath the Fore Channels.

3784
This is a tricky area, some contemporary models have them some don’t.
Logical thinking would support the fitting of lids for those adjacent to the Galley Stove. One big wave and out goes the stove fire that the cook has spent some time getting up to heat, but I don't think they lit the stove in very severe weather..
 
I note that Alex M’s drawings for his Anson razee do include lids in this area, and incidentally double lid lanyards.
The fitting of port lids in the open waist and Qtr deck areas was removed by Navy Board order dating from 1703.
 
Well, that little excursion has soaked up a day and a half,
...........time to move on.🙄
 
 
B.E.
 
24/02/2024
 
 

Wrong glue.
PVA  - yellow carpenters glue  Titebond II if a display model  Titebond III if it is RC
 
No glue is going to bond all that well to end grain. 
Scrap wood - tongue depressors or Birch coffee stirs can be scabbed on both faces of the plywood molds where the planking bonds to widen and have better grain.

Good morning, and thanks to all 💕
 
 

Next two counter timbers done. Also some planking, a wale, the counter and stern roughly mocked up. I think the counter is going to need a slight curve on the sides.
 

Thanks so much Allan.  
 
Incremental progress.   I'm now trying to put together the transoms and fashion pieces.  So far I've had to cut new transom pieces.  I had shortened them too much when fitting them to the sternpost earlier.  I cut a mortice in the fashion timbers, and tenons on the first transom, and here I have the lowest transom dry fit with the two aft fashion timbers resting in place--
 
 
The correct angle of the fashion timbers is verified with the squares--


 
I milled and chiseled out the next couple mortices in the timbers--

 
And am starting to fit the second transom--

 
This is all very slow going.   I've had to recut the third transom also.  It has a complex shape that needs to match the round up of the deck that it supports.  Though none of these pieces (transoms and fashion timbers) have been faired at all, that third transom needs a lot of shaping to get it to transition from the slot on the sternpost down to the mortices on the fashion timbers, which should be about five scale inches down.   All this seems to be going okay so far (apart from having to re-cut all the previously done transoms); hopefully I won't discover some egregious error that makes me start over, as with the bow timbers.
 
Ron
 
 
 

I made 4 card templates, and sanded the area of the deadwood below the bearding line.   In between sessions of doing that, I beveled the aft side of the sternpost-

 
After this was done, I glued the sternpost to the keel, and went back to sanding the deadwood.
 
When I was satisfied that I had done enough there, I cut two shallow mortices into the bottom of the deadwood assembly, and then glued in two small tenons.  These weren't meant to be historically accurate, but would add some strength, and help in keeping the piece aligned when gluing the deadwood to the keel and sternpost--

 
The tenons were filed down until they extended only about 1/32nd of an inch.  I then cut two shallow mortices in the keel and glued the deadwood to the keel and sternpost.   I had also morticed and tenoned the sternpost to the keel when I glued it to the keel earlier.   I did not tenon into the sternpost from the deadwood.
 
Here is the sternpost and deadwood glued to the keel.  You can see 4 pencil lines on the upper part of the deadwood (the fourth is barely visible) that had marked the locations for using the card templates--
  
 
Next will be work on the transoms, and fashion timbers.
 
All for now,
Ron
 
 

Thanks Mark 
 
The bars really made me think as Adrain Sorolla solved this problem by making a grill that rested on the lower bricks.  In the end I just simply ran a 0.9mm drill straight through the side that is pretty much unseen and then filled the holes with tree nails.  The bars are made. of 0.8mm brass - Its easy to make things look difficult when you are in control of the photos 🤣

I have now made the feet for the stove so its completely finished now.


I have also made the hatch for the main deck - I really like making these as their design just lets them simply lock together.


Thanks for all of the comments and likes and hopefully I'll have some more to post soon - Mark

It has been an interesting week.  Lots to report!
 
I installed all the beams and hadn't really notice "it" yet. Just in the zone happily moving along with things.
Started putting in the carlings and as I approached midships it became obvious.
 
What shall I do about it? Installing the orlop deck was meant to be a learning experience to prepare me for those above. The orlop deck was decidedly too deep for anything to be readily noticeable, so lets just move on.
 
Installed all the carlings and it was still there taunting me... "what?" you ask... the hump!!
The aft and fore are high and the deck does a gentle slope downwards towards the midships... or at least that what it looks like on the plans.
Mine has a noticeable rise or camel hump in it. I just won't look at it... but it is still there.
 
I decided to work on the ledgers and needed to make card templates as seen above. I installed them low, down on top of the deck clamp as their thickness plus the grating thickness equalled the beam height. This made sense to me. I could find no photos to suggest I was right.
 
I woke up this morning having made a determined decision in my sleep. I should have dealt with it, the hump, when I first noticed it. I hope this time I've finally learnt that lesson!
I measured the damage... about half a deck clamp in height. How it happened is of no importance, besides, I don't know the answer. Possibly my deck clamps slipped under the  wooden clamps used to hold it in place when glued.
 
I determined which deck beams needed to come out. Cut the smaller carlings with my snips and used my flat nosed parallel pliers to persuade the larger ones to come out... almost like pulling teeth. Used the same pliers to remove the deck beams.
 
Marked the deck clamps and chiselled out the material to, at best, make the hump flat with the lowest points either side of it as seen above.

Reinstalled the beams and checked for flatness. Success! Glued and weighted them down until the glue sets up.

I feel much better about it now. When all is said and done I'll be thinking of how I corrected it, not how it is still hidden down there.
 

A tiny update representing a lot of head bashing.
 
The inner pair of counter timbers:

I had to remove 'deck beam' 18 to get them in, all six will be attached to it before being installed as an assembly.
 
I thought I had the outer counter timbers worked out (several times) but I think I'll have to give up and do them in multiple pieces like Chuck did Cheerful.