davyboy

And another little tid bit that is not normally seen on models. According to Steel, the rope slings were replaced by chain slings in wartime. And if "the road to Trafalgar" doesn't count as wartime, what does ?!?

 

 
Here you can also see that the chain sits on a wedge at the back, whereas the rope slings is passed over the bolster of the mast head.
Until 1760, the braces were supported by preventer braces, whereby the hanger was doubled.
 

 
However, as this proximity was certainly not as effective when under fire, the preventer brace was later brought to the front of the yard.
Consequently, since the chains are attached here, the forward-facing preventer braces should also be attached. For this purpose, the standing part of the brace was attached to the rearmost shroud of the foremast, ran to a block on the front of the yard, back to a block on the rearmost shroud and from there to the forecastle.
 

 
Exciting.
 
XXXDAn

And at some point we got serious with the foot horses. First the thimbles were tied into the stirrups and the four-pack on each side was secured against being breathed away.



Then average out the distances for the stirrups.



For the distance between the thimble and the upper reference point, I made a small 9 mm gauge so that the distance is even when being glued down. Then 3 turns with the free end and glued that on too. When all 4 stirrups were in place, the foot horse was pulled through the thimbles and secured with an external knot before and after the thimble to prevent it from slipping through.



Then a short standing test, and lo and behold, it looks quite plausible.



Then knotted the eye on the inside of the foot horse to secure it. It was THE perfect eye. But I had overlooked the fact that the clamp on the other side of the yardarm went further out than expected, see orange thread ...

... so I cut off the eye and spliced in an extension, luckily it's hardly noticeable at this point, uffz.




This time the length was better and the eye was lashed with 4 turns on the other side of the yard.



Here is the finished ensemble and ...



... even our little able seaman was happy with it up there.



XXXDAn

Here is one of my favorite references for making blocks from Mondfeld.  I had just about got to the point of going forward with this method when Chuck started selling his blocks.
 

You can see that taking it down to very small size is possible.
If you have a small table saw, i.e., Proxxon, Byrnes, etc.,  it will really help with the grooves..
 

Sufficient archaeological remains of the main armament of the Mary Rose have been found.
All this has already been neatly researched and put on a drawing by the Mary Rose organisation.
The irregular placement of these cannons is simply because they were added later. Not in the best, most logical place, but simply where there was room and where the hull construction allowed it.
Most of these cannons have already been printed in 3D by a friendly Australian 
Since I will first continue building the outside of the hull, these cannons will only be placed in the year 2025 or later.
And iwill probably build the fore castle as one whole and then put it on the model.
But, when that will be. no idea for now.

Perhaps such discussion - which can be valuable - should be on a separate thread and not a build log?

I don't think there's a problem with talking about shipbuilding. I personally value the discussion about the specifics of the Mary Rose. However, this is Baker's build log, and he gets to decide what is necessary and what is not. The intention (as I interpret it) is not to ban you or discredit your valuable research, but simply to get along with the build. Personally, I am excited to see the forecastle! 
I hope no offense is taken from this response; none is intended. 
Cheers! 

please
Don't start endless discussions like you do in other build logs.
thank you

Hello everybody,
At the moment I am planning how to colour the interior of the lower deck cabin.
I've looked through all my picture books and picked out a selection of interior shots. There are all sorts of things:
 
Left natural:
 

 

 
Or bright blue:
 

 
Or the panelling and rear gallery inside in black:
 

 
But also red:
 

 

 
The more detailed pictures are from the Princess Royal, red bulkheads, inside of the stern gallery red, sides natural with red beams and black below the ports, red deck beams and knees:
 

 

 

 
Is there any more information on this anywhere in the literature?
I actually wanted to paint the lower cabin red, with a stern bench,  rudder trunk  and one or two rows of supports in red under the red deck beams. Then white in the upper cabin.
Nothing has happened yet, here is the status of my work, I would be pleased to receive suggestions for the correct colour scheme.
 

 

 
Best regards
Matthias

Hello,
the wheels are mostly ready. The paint would't dry, so it took a lot longer then normal. I don't know why 🤔

and that is what you will see when the mast is installed. When there also the binnacle stand in front of the mast, you will see nearly nothing of the wheels 

So, here they are in there full beauty 

But there is also a last problem. The rope to the tiller. In the drawing for the 1745 establishment they draw there something what I interpret as coamings with a lid. Most models have there nothing, or just two wholes in the deck, where the rope disappeared. 
I would at least build it so, but not so large and with two slits for the rope. But not with these sliding foots. I think, that they where a later innovation. But may be, someone of you know there more. 
  
 

Preparation for the production of frames.

Here’s the final version of the stem. Still looking a little porky, Chuck?
 
Best Regards …. Rick

My first stem tapering with a figurehead. Thoughts? Also, how much of a radius should the stem have? I just knocked the corner off for now. 
 
 Best Regards …. Rick

I believe most vessels had mast tackles on the lower masts as well as the top masts. The mast tackle pendants on the lower masts had the additional function of being able to be rigged over the hatches to facilitate lowering cargo into the ship.
 
Regards,
Henry

Had to work today so didn't get round to big T but this is where I got to last night

Here’s last night’s effort, the stem. It took a fair amount of time to get the parts to fit well, the angle cut of the laser is a bugger and careful sanding is required to get gap free joints. I mostly used a file and sanding sticks, I also used with excellent results my Byrnes 4” sander (RIP Jim, we miss you) for trimming down the joints that Chuck points out is his build. Overall it was a pleasant experience. Now to start the taper...
 
 Best Regards …. Rick

I've continued to work on the keel. I pulled the parts from the billets and prepped them. Chuck has mentioned that the wood is so thick it's pushing the laser cutting to the extreme. You can see the wedges and how the laser cut tapers. It doesn't cause any issues though. The wedges were assembled, cut to match the plans and added to the lower apron. Next I will be adding the rising wood and working on the deadwood and wedges that go on the deadwood.
 
 

Here's something for retirement ...
 

Although, since we only use a portion of our brain, I would like to think those spare neurons step up and replace the dead ones.  That's my story and I'm sticking to it.  Unfortunately, at my age, the brain cell boot camp isn't cranking out the new recruits like it used to.

This marks the start of my Syren POF Speedwell! I’ve been dealing with some medical issues and am now close to being 100%, so here we go! A POF has been a bucket list build for a long time as I’ve admired this style of model. Most of the offerings out there just didn’t appeal to me with the scaffold type of construction. Enter Chuck with his Speedwell, Bingo! I’m a huge fan of Chuck’s designs and all the help he (and the other MSW modelers) provides, it gives guys like me a lot of hope. I’ve built Chuck’s Medway (my first wood build) and it came out awesome. Thanks Chuck! I’ve started Cheerful but a POF build has extreme attraction for me. I’ll probably work on Cheerful when a break is needed. Last month at the New London Conference I got to meet Chuck (and Rusty, Ryland and Olha and several others! Awesome to meet you guys!). Had some great conversations and it was nice putting a face to the name. Also, I got to eyeball Chuck’s Speedwell, pictures in the build thread don’t do it justice. A real beauty! Anyway, here we go! When Chuck said there was a lot of wood in the 1st 2 chapters, he wasn’t kidding! The laser cutting is the best I’ve ever seen in a model. A lot of the parts had fallen out of the billets, so I took some time to place them in their proper place and used some blue painters tape to hold them in place. Because the thickness of the wood, I see a lot of billet sanding to remove surface char in my future. Here’s a picture of the wood. Stem will be started tonight.
 
Best Regards …. Rick

Thank you all for the likes.
 
Stern Post
 
While most of the keel parts were glued on a flat surface, this proved problematic for the stern post.  With the rising wood protruding and the stem taper, the assembly is no longer flat and it is difficult to proceed the same way. To keep the stern post perfectly vertical, centered and aligned to the stem, I rather used squares to keep the whole assembly vertical and aligned. See photo.
 

 
I applied a couple thin coats of WOP on the completed assembly.  I show  close-ups of the stern and stem below (note the knee of the head finally glued on).  
 

 
After application of WOP the wood got a bit darker than expected.  Does WOP have a limited shelf time when opened? In the past I have used nitrocellulose sealer.  This is great stuff. It does not change the wood color, gives a nice satin finish and dries almost instantly (70% of the content is VOC!). It is however a pretty nasty chemical and it is hard to find (banned in North-America?). I got mine from the UK many years ago but nowadays suppliers will not ship this abroad.  I find WOP a good alternative.
 
Building Board
 
This has been covered by others and I essentially followed their foot steps.  The MDF boards I could find in hardware stores were not flat. I resorted to a melamine board and glued my plan with repositionable spray glue.   It is now time to work on the frames. Stay tuned. 
 
 
 

Post One Hundred and Seventy-five
18’ cutter – completion.
Lifting rings and a mast step are added to the basic kit along with the incredibly tiny thwart knees. Amazing how Chris manages to produce identifiable laser cut pieces this small.

4602
I have gone with a double banked six oared rowing arrangement, mainly because with single banking I would have to cut an oarlock in the wash strake above the sternsheets, and there’s insufficient depth.

4625
I’m not a fan of the kit rudders supplied with this range of boats, comprising a thin central core sandwiched between two brass etch facings complete with straps.
 
I prefer to make rudders using slightly thicker wood with a vertical grain. For the 18’ cutter I used 1mm Boxwood.

For hanging I use the ‘quick release’ method as used on such boats, as seen here on one of the Victory’s cutters. 
With this arrangement the pintle is attached to the sternpost with an extra-long pin which allows for easier rudder hanging once the boat is in the water.

4590
Rudders are fairly simple to replicate, as is the hanging, provided sufficiently tiny eyelets can be obtained.

4605
To match the other boats on the skids I have painted the bottom with Vallejo ivory, but otherwise left the remainder of the hull and inboard works bright.

4610
The oars provide the colour element linking to the general inboard works of ‘Indy’

4612
I think this small cutter looks ok on the skids, obscuring little of the gun deck, so I’ll leave it onboard.
 
It has taken around 8 days to build this smallest of the supplied boats. From around 10” she looks fine to my eye, especially given the scale, but the macro is somewhat less forgiving.🫤
 
B.E.
10/05/2024

Make the blocks you need.  Although tedious, it is not hard and does not require any fancy tools...just wood, a pinvise/drill and a razor saw.

Well, I have roughed out the plan for the forward hatch and it's a bugger. It intersects frame 5 and as 6 is already compromised I am. Louth to do that to 5 as well. A temporary mast is in place so I can be sure it is vertical and has the correct lean aft, set at 86 degrees. 
 

Photos as promised. 
 
I should be OK with the main hatch as the main mast is immediately aft of frame 11 and I have not set out the beams 10 through 12.
 
Simon

Hello ☺️
 
 

Your rope work is an inspiration Johann.