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Everything posted by Canute
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Oh, boy, a Spru-can. I'm in. And a front row seat, to boot! And the host bought the beer. Bring over the popcorn maker.
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Superb work, Greg. You really make the ship come alive with the detailing and weathering.
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Piet, I have a little familiarity with resin castings and acrylic paint, being a model railroader. Acrylic paints may not adhere well to out of the box resin. Make sure the parts are clean, so wash in warm water with Dawn. It'll cut through the release agent from the molds. I've also heard of wiping down the unpainted parts with denatured alcohol. A good primer will help the acrylic adhere better. The blue painters tape could pull color coats off any unprimed resin, so lessen the tackiness by sticking it to your pants and then using it.
- 378 replies
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- java
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Like Dan said, an ingenious way of building the frames. This is going to be a great build.
- 130 replies
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Piet, impressive speed shown there. The resin castings from Pacific Crossroads look great.
- 378 replies
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Scott, I vote for a Hornet. We've seen a modern CV; now we'd like to see a WWII carrier.
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We're our own worst critics. I think your shading looks good, helping to bring out the details. Keep it up!
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Piet, thank you for relating a bit of your history. I salute you. And I salute the crews of the ships of the ABDA command who went willingly to fight the Japanese, despite such long odds. It's like the Spartans at Thermopylae.
- 378 replies
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Sorry about your loss, Jesse. We lost our Abby about a year ago. Lovely Golden. Take it slow and easy; get your strength back.
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Piet, I'll be following, too. It is an obscure portion of history. I read Cox's book to get an even-keeled approach to this chapter of WWII history. I, too, look forward to your construction.
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I definitely like the color of your staining. Good job!
- 228 replies
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Yeah, the aftermarket products available are superb. That AK-130 main gun looks like it could actually fire. And your use of these parts is outstanding, Greg.
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CA adhesive, which one do you use?
Canute replied to Modeler12's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Mark is right. Roughing up the spots where you apply the CA helps a lot. Wood can be problematic for CA, especially when applying on end grain. Tends to wick into the wood. Apply a first coat and let dry. This seals the wood for the CA. Then glue your parts together with a second drop of CA. I'm not a fan of CA glue for wood to wood applications; carpenter's yellow glue set up fast enough for me. CA is great for dissimilar materials gluing, like Britannia metal to wood. I'd still rough up the smooth surface and seal the wood, though. But, that's just me. -
Find a good woodworking ship like Woodcraft. They carry beeswax, too.
- 81 replies
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Samuel, I'll follow your build, too!
- 47 replies
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I'm in too. Quality kit and workmanship.
- 74 replies
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Old Floquil paints?
Canute replied to MEDDO's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
With Floquil, if you can't smell the paint, it's dry enough to paint over. That is usually a few days; any sooner and the paint tends to retain brush strokes. -
Model Shipway Ratline tool
Canute replied to fnkershner's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Yes, the white glues dry to a clear translucency. The yellow carpenter's glues will definitely leave a yellow/tan coloration.
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