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Canute
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Everything posted by Canute
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Great news on the family front, Frank. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours. -
Robert, that build is on hiatus. Maybe another Ken? I'm currently thrashing on SMS Seydlitz with COG and RGL.
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Scott, try applying the tape to your jeans to take a little stickum off the tape. And maybe blend the two painted areas with a piece of a brown paper sack. Its like a very fine sandpaper. Start slowly and don't press too hard; you're blending the painted surfaces.
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That Western Approaches camouflage is tame compared to the design Dan P is putting on his USS Leviathan. And check out the Measure 3X series of US Navy camo: http://www.shipcamouflage.com/measures.htm
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Nicely done, Alan. Looks ready to go.
- 125 replies
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- 9 pound naval cannon
- 3d cannon barrel
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After ripping through half a pack of carbide drills, I'm back to high speed steel bits. But buy in bulk, we'll go thru a bunch with all the drilling. I've got a slow running electric hand drill for all these holes. Can't set up in a drill press and pin vises will take forever.
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The Trucolor paints are acetone based, so mask up and glove up. They do have a slew of colors. This is the rejuvenated Accu-paint line of many years ago. Model building experts amongst the model RR fraternity recommend priming under this paint. It doesn't adhere to resins and some plastics. So I'd recommend a priming taping test on the plastic. Spray your primer on one half of your test piece, let dry, lay some masking tape across the primer and the bare plastic. Spray or brush your color and let dry. Remove the tape and see what gets pulled off.
- 140 replies
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- 4
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- the sullivans
- trumpeter
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Ron, you might want to use 4 ought steel wool. It's go into solution faster than the nails. I use it as a wood stain on my models.
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Denis, check the bottom of page 2. That box is chock full of resin, wood, brass and stainless steel.
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The USN is pretty good at turning acronyms into words, too. CNTRA is Sinatra? But yeah, we do like those acronyms.
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Carl, get a good fitting breathing mask with chemical filters to reduce the CA fumes effects. Those inexpensive dust masks won't do much, but I use a 3M one and it helps with the CA, acetone and MEK fumes. You do have to replace filters occasionally. And maybe an exhaust fan, to reduce stress from the odors, with the rest of your household.
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Western NC was a balmy 50F or so, with rain showers. Sawdust is good, too. Glues are usually easier to work with especially not using much photo etch. But, it's all fun! Nice shell hole in that last photo there. The deploying/furling of these nets must have been a real drill. I can't imagine trying to move the ship with those deployed, but I guess they did it.
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And I even looked it up, Jack! Badly trained fingers. Yes, bending PE will be a new skill. All my previous work was simple bends.This will be a big step up.
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Denis, I do. Just waited for the "bling" to show up. Now the fun begins. Making holes in the hull for various and sundry purposes. Hobbyboss didn't get every nuance of this battlecruiser. Some will be up to our interpretation of available photos. Greg has been a hero digging up shots. Art, Carl enjoys spreading his "talents" around, whether it's an Aussie or a Yank. We're all targets. You could join Jack12377 with a build of a Fletcher class DD. Or try a sub. The boat is usually pretty basic, but you will learn some new painting skills.
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Lou, I know.We're in touch. He's further along with his hull. I'm deciding how I'll display the ship. Probably pedestals, but....
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Just in from Free Time Hobbies in Blue Ridge, GA. A nice sized box chock full of brass, resin, wood and, I think, stainless steel. There are 9 bags of turned brass parts. Two are Seydlitz specific masting and yards. Seven bags contain the various gun barrels, booms hose reels and derricks. There is one resin bag with the blast bags for the 280 mm cannon. There are 6 brass photo etch frets: A- railings, companionways, ladders and ringoles(?), B-davits, boat chocks, daylights, C- railings, stack trim, derricks, D-anti-torpedo booms, E- ships boats, F anchor gear and coaling hatches/scuttles. Anchor chain and 2 pieces of 0.15 mm brass wire are also included. I believe the wire is for rigging the helm signals attached to the main mast. There is a very thin wood deck set. Four double sided pages of instructions, along with a parts breakout of all the bagged parts and drilling patterns for the torpedo net mounting holes. There is also a drilling guide to attach some boat booms towards the stern. Good sized box, about 15 inches long Brass barrels, hose reels and mast parts anti torpedo boom rigging and shelving for the nets Instruction sheet, 1 of 4 bagged parts and drilling diagram torpedo nets and more ringoles You will need some 40 dernier black lycra thread (Infini part IR 0401B super fine black) Not included in this package, but called out in the instruction sheets. Below is the wood sheets and anchor chain, along with a slightly better view of the stainless netting.
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Optivisors, stronger reading glasses and more light will do the trick. The newer LEDs put out more lumens. And I'd get the ones in the sunlight temperature range for painting purposes.
- 140 replies
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- 6
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- the sullivans
- trumpeter
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Lou, just jump in and work with it. The first one might be a tad iffy, but #2 will be better and so on. Go for it. The beauty of this board is everybody helps.
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