Canute
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Everything posted by Canute
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The older versions of the AC-130 gunship in Viet Nam carried a 40mm. The new up-engined model has a 30 mm and a 105mm as armament. Think the 30mm is belt fed, like the 30mm in the A-10 Wart hogs. -
Lou, you work in a suit of armor? Be careful there. This stuff is supposed to be relaxing and fun. No races here, mate.
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I'd store the CA in a tightly sealed jar with some silica gel packets in the bottom. Humidity/moisture is the bane of CA. It's a part of the accelerator sprays used to speed up the setting process. I'd use the pin in a bigger wood handle. Less likely to get stuck if the pointy end is embedded in a handle. The other end shouldn't pose much of a threat to your paws. Acetone is the organic chemical used to remove CA and fingernail polish. That's hint for a source if you do stick things together incorrectly; see the Admiral for her help. I've never had much luck keeping the nozzles clean with those dispensers. I like the drop at a time applicator; you can also use a little capillary action to get the this stuff to spread on a seam.
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Jim, the colors you cite are what we, in the US anyway, use on all our ordnance. Live loads have yellow stripes for the real stuff, whether it's torpedoes, aerial bombs, air to air missiles or 20 mm ammunition. Training ordnance had blue markings. I spent 20 years in the flying game hauling that stuff. Ten or so years as a Weapons Instructor.
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I'd suggest putting a small puddle of your superglue on an old plastic lid or piece of a plastic bag and then applying with a sewing needle with the eye end clipped off to make a concave , tiny applicator. Keeps you from repeatedly opening and closing the cap of your glue bottle. The syrupy glue means it's turning, so get a card of two or three of those little tubes. When one goes bad, open a fresh tube. I've read here that the superglue turns brittle over time and that could be bad for rigging. Also it will leave a shiny spot on the rope.
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Chief, I remember building the Revell or Renwal model back in the day. I was just happy to have a model of more than the outer hull and sail. This looks really impressive. Thanks for sharing.
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- ethan allen
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I don't do ebay. We had words some time back about credit cards.
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Found out something my last visit to the Mariners Museum in Hampton, VA. They are restoring the turret and guns, along with other salvaged parts of the USS Monitor. Excellent location for these transition era ships. And an outstanding museum with many ship models. Anyway, the Monitor could only fire one gun at a time from the turret. And they were afraid to put a full powder charge in each gun for fear of bursting the barrels, so they fired at the Virginia with partial loads.
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Carl, no luck finding the kit, doing my scan of my usual suppliers. I do have a DKM Z-39 in the same scale, but have quite a full plate right now. I'll follow you lads for now.
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Think I'll join Mark in the cheap seats. This looks to be a lot of fun.
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Another option may be Model Monkey on Shapeways. He does both US and British 32 pound carronades in your scale, although they are 1805 designs. Here's a link: https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey/1-16-1-200-scales
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- prince de neufchatel
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Very nice joinery, Mario. And a clear explanation. Follow the doctor/therapist's orders. Getting one's major joints repaired/replaced is a bear, but when the exercises are done correctly, no one will ever know you had the work done. I've had a hip replacement, but have no evidence other than a scar you know where.
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Any brand name plastic cement for styrene should work, like Tamiya or Testors. The Tamiya flashes off quickly, so parts should be in place when applied. The Testors has more working time, since it's thicker. Just be careful of any of it oozing from a joint. Wash the parts before assembly to remove mold release agents. Wipe the model off to remove plastic dust and finger oils after assembly with denatured alcohol. Prime with a good quality primer paint, such as Tamiya Fine primer. You can paint with hobby enamels or acrylics. See what your local hobby shop carries(if you are fortunate enough to have one nearby). Good luck
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Great work there, Piet. It'll be a fitting memorial. Getting effective water in a diorama is hard work, especially ocean water.
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There is also so embossed paper sheets of brick stock that MicroMark pedals. Mark, the firebox looks good. You need to dirty it up, to give it a used look.
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Mike, I spent 20 years doing that air to air stuff; 10 or so as an weapons & tactics instructor (think Top Gun). A mere quibble of your display. I love the construction, impressive build.
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Add some more banking, so they look like they're turning into each other. That would be a dogfight.
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I suspect it already was a bear to fly, with the short wings and ailerons. Very nice work, Mike.
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Aha! Those thingamabobs on those turrets are the optical rangefinder covers. Those were Plan B. If the ship's internal fire control systems went down and they had to use local control, these gave them firing info in the turret (ranges, elevations and bearings). They didn't fire their guns via open sights.
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Denis, your first shot of those stairs made me think of that Escher print with the stairs. Hoo hah! They are looking good.
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