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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Tasmanian, white glue will give you more working time with the PE. Even the thickest cyano will invariably set up before you get the PE in position. Use a micro-brush to carefully apply some white glue where you intend to apply the PE part, let the glue thicken/set up and then attach the PE part. Put the micro-brush in water when you aren't using it to apply glue. After you have attached your PE parts, go back and put a dot of cyano at the attachment point with a pin or unraveled paperclip. Better control of the glue. Kind of a belt and suspenders approach, but it works well. Another glue you might look for is called Canopy glue. The RC airplane crowd use it to glue canopies on . It looks to me like a thickened white glue.
  2. Once you seal the wood, the stains, etc., don't work. It will be blotchy. You may want to redo you test with sealed wood.
  3. maybe try heating the juice up to enhance the reaction? Might want to do it in a double boiler setup to control the speed of heating, since you are first just heating up water. Application of heat usually speeds up reactions like these. You're just cooking the steel shot in lemon juice
  4. Hope the boiler folks gave you a good start time. We get companies that give you an 8 hour window for their work. Look at it as Unintended consequences, you're getting work done on Convulsion.
  5. Looks like you have some space amidships for those carronades. And your stern extension is looking good, too.
  6. Those two Nutz brothers are short-fused! And bad tempered. Makes for good P-rates I guess. Careful over gunning that beauty, making it top heavy. Swivels for anti-personnel are probably OK. More carronades, while cool looking, may be pushing it. Put a couple midships, maybe make 'em pivot to either side? Ship's for taking booty, not blastin' boats out of the water, eh?
  7. Al, good to see you back. I, too, am building a Bounty Launch, though I'm only at the start of planking.. So, I've been reading all the MSW build logs. All have useful techniques. Thanks for sharing.
  8. Very nice work, Ken. I too will be following along with your build. Thanks for sharing.
  9. Dee Dee, excellent discussion on fabric selection and sail making for this tyro. I'll have to get the Admiral's sewing machine repaired now. We have a Jo-Ann's Fabric locally, but Asheville is just up the road and may have a source similar to yours.
  10. Matt, carronade looks really good! Steve and Matt, those screws are a good resource, although they may not be long enough for the elevating screw on the carronade.
  11. Jonny, surprised the CA didn't glue the resin parts. Wonder what kind of resin it is, to be impervious? I usually try to get resin parts positioned with a tacky glue, then wick some CA into the joint via capillary action. The tacky glue won't glue resin; it just gets the parts lined up. I've also used some real sticky glues available here in the US . One named Goo, the other is Barge Cement. Both are sticky, but very smelly. Now I use a brand called Aleene's Tacky Glue. Kind of like the glue on a Post-it Note.
  12. Matt, guns look good. To add, you might look at tiny bolts, say 00-90 or 0-80, for elevating screws for the carronades. I've been digging into the MS USN Picket Boat and got the 4 article series from Ships in Scale by Kurt Van Dahm. For the 1:24 launch's 12 pound Dahlgren cannon, he used a 2-56 threaded rod for the screw. Check in a model railroad shop, if you can find one, for these bolts.
  13. Matt, I'm thumbing thru my copy of "Arming the Fleet" by Spence Tucker, Naval Institute Press. (What do you expect from a Weapons Officer?). Has such exotica as carriage dimensions. Anyway, apparently in the 1770s, the 3 pdr went from a size of 4'6", 7 cwt-1 qrs-7 lbs to 3'6" 3cwt-3 qrs-o lbs. Found it in Table 10 on page 88 of said book. That was sourced from John Muller's Treatise of Artillery, Whitehall, 1780. That being said, I'd expect the privateer/pirate to ship whatever guns they could get their grubby paws on, so the Cap'n thoughts are a bulls-eye!
  14. Great work, Augie. Good technique abounds. Up here in the Smokies, we can work outside, so we can enjoy the fresh air and do a little modeling. I do wish I had screened in my deck area, though.
  15. I agree with Eamon about the balsa bulkheads. May work easy, but it's weak. Another wood may be basswood; it comes in sheets. And yes, Dee_Dee's French sloop looks very good. Check it out!
  16. Well, a bit of progress today. Glued up the larboard sheer plank and garboard strake. Garboard hood end fitting into the stem. Fit looks good. Sheer plank. Had to use that binder clip to hold the hood end in the rabbet. Transom end I hope the rest of the planks lay in like these.
  17. Cap'n, I just finished reading your tales of hard trials and great tribulations on the ships boats. Quite the saga! I await the commencement of this iconic ship build to follow along.
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