ccoyle

Impressive collection!

There is a particular knot to use, but I don't remember what it is off the top of my head. You should be able to find it, if you have any of the usual go-to rigging reference books. I can look it up when I get home if you're still in need of it at that time. Your knots should not come undone if you daub the ends with a bit of dilute white glue or fabric glue and let it dry before trimming. Also, you can create the proper sag by applying a bit of the same dilute glue to the rope and pressing lightly down on it with the end of a paint brush handle or thin dowel. It's looking good so far!

Super job, Liam!

They don't anymore.

You're off to a great and very tidy start. I think the basic OcCre kit looks nice, but like you said, it is a little on the simplistic side and could certainly benefit from a few improvements. Looking forward to seeing how you accomplish those. Cheers!

Not certain of your meaning here -- is there a question in there?

I wondered what that was. I saw it in my card model version, but of course the instructions are all in Polish.

Lovely model! Congratulations!

Congratulations on completing a challenging subject!

A novel subject -- I can pretty much guarantee that this is the first and only floating grain elevator shown on MSW!

Nice! Any square-rigged three-master is a challenge to build, and my hat's off to anyone who finishes one, especially if it's a scratch job.

I can't find the specs, but it should be somewhere around 15-20 cm.

Richard, at the top of the index for each category is a button that says "start new topic." Your title and any tags are entered along with the first post in the new topic.

Rear fuselage skeletons complete. This is the easy part . 🤨 Next up is the internal cockpit structure. As you can see from the diagrams, Lech chose not to make this a simplified element -- there is a lot of open and delicate framing involved. This will not be a sequence for the faint-of-heart builder.

Hello, and welcome to my build log for the 1930s Polish trainer, the PWS-10. Many westerners are unaware that Poland had a vibrant aircraft industry in pre-war Europe, producing both military and civilian aircraft. Some of the designs produced were cutting-edge and among the best aircraft types of their time. The PWS-10 was not one of them. 😬 Designed by the Polish Aircraft Factory (Podlaska Wytwórnia Samolotów) and first flown in 1930, the PWS-10 was intended to be a fighter, but from the beginning its performance was underwhelming, so the type was quickly relegated to training duties (the excellent PZL P.7 first flew the same year and quickly became the backbone of the Polish Air Force fighter corps). Only 80 were built. A parasol monoplane powered by a 12-cylinder, 478-hp W engine of French design, the type was armed with two 7.7 mm machine guns and had a top speed of 150 mph (240 km/h). In 1936, twenty examples were sold to Spain, where they also served as trainers for the Nationalist side. The kit is designed by Lech Kołodziejski, who first made it available under his own brand and website, CardPlane. CardPlane has since closed for business, but Lech's designs are still published by WAK. The first "real" card airplane I ever built was one of Lech's free models, the WZ-X, and I have since built two more of his models (below, l to r: WZ-X, Bartel BM-6, PWS Z-17). As you can see, Lech's design interests lean towards obscure and experimental aircraft types rather than those that went into large-scale production. After completing the WZ-X, I sent Lech some photos to use as promotional material at his website. Not too long afterwards, I received a very pleasant and totally unexpected surprise in the mail -- a set of all of Lech's designs then available in print, among which was the PWS-10 in Spanish markings. Later, a different designer made a free repaint of the model available in Polish white-tail markings. For this grand adventure, I will be building both models side-by-side. Lech's designs, including this one, typically have very robust skeletal structures. Unlike the recently deceased P-36 attempt, whose fuselage consisted of a number of conic sections glued end-to-end, this model's fuselage will be built using a profile former and a number of transverse bulkheads coupled with longitudinal formers. The wing is built around two spars. It should all prove very stout. I recently found some laser-cut formers for this kit and snapped them up. The retailer only had one set, though, so one model will use the laser cut set while the other uses formers cut from brown chipboard. The laser-cut set has been coated with shellac for additional strength, but the chipboard already cuts like iron, so it will not get the shellac treatment. Construction is already underway. The first task was to mix up the necessary edge color paints, which I was able to successfully do using only paints that I already had on hand. I'm quite pleased with the results, which I tested out on a part from each model. Next time: fuselage construction. Cheers!

Hey, who's the publisher for this one?

Trumpeter has been in the plastic kits game for a long time and is particularly known for their steel navy kits. I noticed right away that the molding of your kit's hull looks very good and appears to have a nice level of detail. I also like that they used a tan-colored styrene instead of the more commonly seen black or dark brown used for sailing men-of-war kits. I think that will make things easier when it comes to painting. One thing I might suggest, though, is that you replace the deadeyes -- they don't look nearly so nice, and replacing them should not be difficult. Have fun on your project!

Welcome! I love indigenous small craft of every stripe -- your model looks great!

Fixed.

Well, I'll wrap up this topic by letting you all in on a plan I have been mulling. Since I have two PWS-10 kits and essentially two sets of formers, one printed and one laser-cut, why not just build both of them? 😯 One of the biggest obstacles for me for starting a card model is getting the edge-coloring media correct. With these two kits, the primary colors are shades of gray, brown, and olive drab. I already have most of the paint on hand that I anticipate I'll need to mix the correct shades, so not too much difficulty there. These are also nice kits that I was blessed with gratis by their designer, so I have little in the way of capital investment tied up in them -- nothing to lose, so to speak. Might be important considering my current dreadful run of form on card models. 🙄 Here's a few photos. Three-view of the PWS-10. "White Tail" markings. Spanish Nationalist markings. Laser-cut formers. Of course, if I move forward with this, I will start up a new topic with more details about the plane and kit. Cheers!

Welcome! I always advise SoCal folks to check out the Ship Modelers Association. They meet in Fullerton, if that's near you. There's nothing quite like meeting your fellow modelers alive and in person to socialize, look at models, and swap tips and advice.

Sadly, I don't know the answer to that question. But if you google his name on the usual plastic forums, e.g. FineScale Modeler, he's probably got it described in more detail somewhere. Edit: Here is one such article.

I have a friend (Brian Criner) who has done some amazing finishes on Japanese aircraft. After he pre-shades his panel lines, he sprays the aluminum undercoat followed by a coat of Futura floor wax, and finally the topcoat. Then he uses crumpled cellophane tape to randomly chip the finish. It is very convincing. This is one of his models. Maybe a little depressing for us mortals, but certainly something you could try if you are handy with an airbrush.

Wow! Your remodel is amazing -- makes me want to come over and play. One comment about your gaff jaws: The jaws should not have hooked ends that wrap around the mast; they should just be open like a letter "Y". Hooked ends would make the part rather difficult to afix to the mast. Cheers!

Yep, agree. As I said in my introduction, I have finished a model from this designer, so I'm a little taken aback by the overall quality of this kit. Not his best work, and the diagrams -- or lack thereof -- certainly didn't help. I have one other kit from this same designer, and a study of its parts and diagrams suggests that it is more up to the gentleman's usual standards. It's a technique for stiffening the internal formers that I have read about but never tried. I'll discuss it more in my intro for the next build attempt (subject as yet undecided). Amen!