ccoyle
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Everything posted by ccoyle
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HMS Snake by BenD - Caldercraft - 1:64
ccoyle replied to BenD's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
It works. I've never coppered a hull myself, but I have read about several methods of aging and sealing the plates. Some builders prefer to let the copper age naturally. Each method can produce a pleasing result. -
Dunno the answer to that one, either. I know virtually nothing about the construction details of cogs other than what I have learned from working on this kit. P.S. I learned something last night. I have been using 3M 77 spray adhesive for large wood-to-wood joints, as I would with similar card parts. I learned from experience that non-acrylic wood stain acts as a solvent on the 3M product. 😮 Hopefully, after everything dries the glue will reset. Hopefully.
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This is the same reason why I keep suggesting that certain unnamed kit manufacturers should give more thought to a matched set of Chesapeake & Shannon. Some ships just beg to be offered in pairs.
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I would think that Hood would be immensely popular -- she was the first name in British capital ships for the entire interwar period and of course is inextricably bound up with the Bismarck drama.
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There are several models in the Caldercraft lineup that don't seem to have caught on as well as others, for whatever reason. Jalouse, Cruizer, Snake, and Mars are all wonderful single-gun-deck subjects, but we hardly see them in the forum. Lots of build logs for Sherbourne and Victory, their bottom and top end kits, which makes sense. The Amati Fly and Pegasus kits were huge hits and probably stole the thunder from some of the earlier Caldercraft intermediate-level entries. At least that's how it went for me -- I was all onboard with going for Snake as a fourth POB build until Fly became available. Someday I may even finish it!
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Agree, it's heading that way. The original question was asked and answered. Let's keep any additional posts on topic. Thanks, gentlemen!
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Congratulations! With all of the advantages offered by modern kit designs, many modelers wouldn't even have attempted a challenge like an old Scientific kit. Like Duane said, you should get bonus points both for working with that particular kit and for tackling a clipper as a first subject. Well done!
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Dunno. I can't even vouch that the kit mirrors actual practice -- I just build it the way the instructions tell me!
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It is real wood! 😉 This is Shipyard's first foray into wooden kits. There is of course also the card version, which Chuck Seiler has been working on.
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The last steps in completing the lower hull are to install the wales and beam ends. With those tasks accomplished, attention shifts to the upper works.
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Hi from15 nm west of Hamburg / Northern Germany
ccoyle replied to Oboship's topic in New member Introductions
Moin, moin! I'm sure we'd all like to see some of your finished models. -
The rudder is hung. Pintles and gudgeons consist of short bits of plastic tubing overlaid by faux metalwork made from brown cardstock and painted. Simulated bolt heads are daubs of glue. EDIT: I just noticed in the first picture that the rudder is riding up a little bit. 😑 No worries -- it's not glued in place, so a little push will set it properly.
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ancre Coureur by cafmodel - 1/48
ccoyle replied to cafmodel's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
For those not in the know, that's Kerry Jang, a very respected modeler and author. -
I had the same problem a week or two ago. It just went away on its own -- can't explain it.
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You can click here to see a list of Bogue-class model kits -- not too many to choose from. Of course, there were undoubtedly many changes made to each ship over the course of its service career, along with additional differences for those in RN service. It's a start, though.
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Yes, typically ships of the era that you are modeling used rope-stropped blocks. Iron stropping came later, followed by internal stropping. Syren Ship Models, in fact, makes some very nice internally stropped blocks. BTW, your wire stropping looks nice.
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Welcome! HMS Ameer was a Bogue-class carrier; these were smaller than the Casablanca-class (incl. Gambier Bay) and built on merchant hulls, whereas Casablancas were designed from the keel up as warships. Others will have more specific information than what I can provide.
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I assume that your kit calls for stropping the blocks with wire? You have a couple of options. The first is to acquire some blackened annealed wire, which is available in very small diameters from industrial suppliers; it is also sometimes available in craft stores -- look in the jewelry section, where it is sold with beading supplies. Second option is to ditch the wire entirely, since it doesn't replicate actual practice. You can use an appropriate diameter of thread to do the job.
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Welcome! Great choice of subject and source material. Yes, I can personally attest to both!
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Odd scales like 1/535 were the result of designing kits to fit into a pre-determined box size and thus are often referred to as "box scales." I can remember building old Revell issues like this one when I was a kid; the modern plastic marvels in standardized scales of 1/250 and 1/350, along with their gobs of aftermarket upgrades, were largely unavailable at that time. There's a lot of nostalgia attached to these old kits, just as our fathers would have had in regards to the even older wooden kits that preceded them.
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I know that some modelers consider such ships as hybrid abominations, but I think they represent a rather interesting transitional period in naval architecture -- too bad that they are not well-represented in the model kit world.
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Welcome, Nic -- I look forward to seeing your work.
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Welcome aboard, Bill!
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Just a heads up -- as you know, the frame extensions are notched on the inboard side. Those notches indicate the placement of the inner bulwark planking. The inner and outer bulwark planking should be the same height; if you have extensions extending significantly higher than the outboard planks, you'll probably run into some fit problems with the inboard planks.
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