ccoyle
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Everything posted by ccoyle
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Welcome, and good work on your model! Flirt's designer, Chris Watton, is an active member here.
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Been a while since I've read the book (and BTW, back in my SoCal days, Don helped me get through my first POB project), but if I recall correctly, it's more of a survey of various techniques rather than a how-to book. If you're looking for pointers, you can start here. -
I got the seams cleaned up, but there were still bits of blue tape residue visible. I decided to epoxy the seams with a wood flour/epoxy mix. It hides the remaining residue and ultimately will strengthen the seam, so why not? I didn't take a picture of this step, because it's not particularly visually interesting. Once the epoxy sets, the next step will be adding the interior rub rails.
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There's no fiberglass or epoxy yet above the second strake. Everything gets a coat of epoxy eventually.
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My messy fiberglass job has created a can load of extra work for myself, but I did manage to trim some more of the ragged edges today, and I also hit upon a workable method of tidying up the sharp edges and tape residue that are left over -- my Dremel tool skills have come in handy in this regard. This photo shows the cleaned-up edge I was able to get before it got too dim in my garage to continue working.
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Your work thus far suggests that this project will have a fantastic end result.
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The ultimate arbiter of "did right" or "did wrong" is the look of the finished product. So far, your model looks very good, especially for a first wooden ship, so I'd say that you have done mostly quite right. Keep up the good work!
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Dunno -- I'm just learning about all the possible mistakes by making them! 😆 I'm not too worried though. I figure a few patches, a lot of sanding, and some paint will cover over a multitude of boat-building sins.
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Welcome! We have some fans of paper models here, one of whom is me.
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Well, this has really been an up-and-down roller coaster ride -- some parts go easy, others are a train wreck, a few are both in turns. Here's where I'm at now. Along with my crappy fiberglassing, you can see the trouble I have had so far with removing the tape, which I expected would be easy (ha!). The tape's purpose was to keep the resin-impregnated fiberglass cloth from sticking to the third strakes, and it was supposed to be easily removed by sliding a utility knife along the seam between the 2nd and 3rd strakes. Nobody warned me though about the trouble that results from resin pooling up along the seam and beneath the cloth (although it makes perfect sense now). In those areas, the knife doesn't slide easily in the seam, but rather wants to skate along the top of the hardened resin/cloth. Ugh. I'm having so much fun. But the next one will be easier, right?
- 299 replies
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Not on my bench, neither now nor in the forseeable future!
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One of the new or upcoming ship's boat kits from Vanguard would probably be a passable substitute. Master Korabel also makes great ship's boat kits, but I believe theirs are smaller, i.e. 1/72 scale vs. 1/64 for Vanguard.
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- Model Shipways
- Baltimore Clipper
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I was totally into 1/35 scale armor as a kid (built whatever Tamiya or Italeri kits I happened upon on the shelves of the local hobby shop) and built ships and aircraft as well, but I shy away from the thought of trying a plastic kit again, only because they are relatively expensive and, in my opinion, have a steep learning curve for getting to the place where one can build a decent-looking result. But I marvel at folks who can use PE and weathering to produce very realistic-looking plastic models, like our own Greg here at MSW. It's an art form.
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- enterprise
- constructo
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I have seen a finished example of this kit up close and in person, and it can truly be built into an impressive model. The only thing that bothers me about the kit is the included ship's boat, which I believe is an off-the-shelf item from MS. The real PoB's ship's boat is a thing of beauty, and I think it would be worthwhile to scout around for replacement of the kit item. Good luck!
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- Model Shipways
- Baltimore Clipper
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Welcome aboard!
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That's a touching tribute. I wish you well on your project.
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Welcome! So when you say "high desert," I assume you're talking about Lancaster, Apple Valley, Victorville, Boron -- somewhere in that vicinity?
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😬 Well, I almost completely FUBARed this model. Having glued up the internal formers for the right wing (pics later), I commenced gluing up the same for the left wing. Each wing structure consists of about 16 pieces -- pretty impressive framing for a card model. As I got down to the last two parts for the left wing, something seemed off. And then I noticed it: I had inadvertently and incorrectly oriented the two main spars, causing the second wing to not be a left wing but rather a second right wing! Yikes!! Happily, the carpenter's glue had not completely set, and I was able to get the wing disassembled and re-assembled properly. Whew -- that was a close one! 😮
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I missed the finish on this one -- very striking. Well done!
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- Lusitania
- Gunze Sangyo
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This looks like a kit model of the Half Moon, only pierced for four guns instead of the more usual eight -- perhaps an older Corel or Billing Boats kit.
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This is not to be unexpected. It reminds of me of Neil Peart, the late drummer for Rush. After his wife passed away, he took a long hiatus from the band, but he came back to it eventually. If you are passionate about something, as your models clearly show, you will return to it at some point. But time away for grieving is something none of us would begrudge you. Take care of yourself, Chris
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- royal katherine
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"Kit bashing" is a loosely defined term in the hobby that simply means that a kit hasn't been built straight out of the box. This could be anything from scratch-building parts to replace the off-the-shelf fittings in a kit, to adding a lot of extra detail to a kit, to substantially reworking a kit to represent a vessel other than the kit subject.
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I had another go at the fiberglassing today and things went much better, faster, and easier. Why is it always the first crack at any new skill that sucks the worst? My daughter simply observed that it's like the first pancakes in a batch, which I thought was a good analogy.
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Thankfully, unlike my canoe project, the PWS-10 requires no fiberglass work. After the cylinder head covers were done, the two fuselage sections mated, and a few other bits added, this part of the build came to a successful conclusion. Of course, I still need to do this all over again for White Tail when its laser set arrives in the mail.
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I will try to stay positive with this post. Wish me luck. 😜 I decided it was time to attempt my first ever fiberglass job. The result looks like I've never done fiberglass before. Things started off well enough. I got the fillets between panels 1 and 2 done quickly and without much difficulty. (The spreader bar in the image is temporary.) Spreading out the fiberglass cloth was a bit more of a challenge, but I got that done, too. So then it was time to add the resin ... and that's where the wheels fell off. Despite my best efforts to get the cloth as smooth as possible, once the resin went on every slightest imperfection in the cloth turned into a wet, sticky wrinkle. It was a nightmare trying to get the resin spread quickly and all the tiny wrinkles ironed out. Time turned out to be my enemy, as once again the working time for the resin proved to be too short. I didn't take a picture of this step, as I was very unhappy with the process and result and have decided to postpone photographing it until after the resin hardens and I can better assess what the true damage is. Hopefully it will not be as bad as I fear and Mr. Sander and me will be able to put things right. Hopefully.
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