ccoyle
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Everything posted by ccoyle
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I believe many POB II builders have gone this route. The modern gear does look a bit odd on a sailing vessel. -
Stuff like this is why we need an LOL button.
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He probably would have just whittled away some wood from the framing until he got his pre-cut panels to more or less fit properly. 😋 Well, at least that's what I did.
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Greetings from Southern California
ccoyle replied to Allamagoosa's topic in New member Introductions
Now, wait just a minute ... actually, I agree with that, but since I haven't had a local club since 2003, MSW will have to do! 😁 -
You could try the Bluejacket Jefferson Davis, a topsail schooner. It's a POF kit, but doesn't follow actual POF practice. Nevertheless, it can be built into a striking model.
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It did. Pics later, but basically what happened is that during the lower hull construction, I didn't get the sides flared outward enough. I'm not sure why that happened or what I could have done about it. The lack-of-flare is not much, probably less than 2 mm, but it creates a problem with mating the upper hull sides to the lower hull sides at the stern castle. I will have to think about how to best resolve this issue. Think, think, think ...
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Okay, I got it done. I calculated how much of the dark line I needed, stained it, dried it, completed the windlass, and mounted the stern castle to the main hull -- hooray for me! It took quite a bit of shaping of the forward stern castle to get it to sit properly, and I hope that doesn't come back to haunt me when I get around to attaching the remaining hull siding. Getting the stern castle actually onto the hull was another challenge, because it needs to be glued down in several places, and also the tiller handle has to be put through the aft framing prior to finally positioning everything, and of course all before the glue sets. But it's done. Whew!
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Just a quick update. I have hit a bit of a mental snag. Before I can glue the stern castle to the hull, I need to dye some of the rigging cord. I have the dye on hand (not literally -- that would of course be messy). The problem is that the kit does not specify how much of each diameter of rigging line is included in the kit, nor does it specify how much of each line needs to be dyed for each color (i.e. tan/taupe/natural for running rigging and dark brown/gray/black for standing rigging). So that's something that I will have to figure out. In the meantime, I have been working on a few bits that follow later in the build sequence. Will post pictures once I get the line dyed and stern castle mounted.
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Here ya go, Derek -- you're famous! One hundred likes already since just this morning. 👍
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James is building the second prototype and will be taking photographs for the instruction manuals along the way. Amati says the release date will be toward the end of 2021 -- realistically you might want to add a few months on to that.
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Gargantuan models are not my personal cup of tea as a builder, but I strongly suspect that this will be a big hit for Amati and am really looking forward to watching your progress. Cheers!
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Assuming that your local train shop is well-stocked, such shops are often useful sources for tools and materials that can be used in ship modeling.
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Matt, On the Halinski website, there are directions for ordering directly from them. They will send you a quote, which you then have three days to accept or reject. I have purchased from them direct myself. Cheers!
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Changing build log title?
ccoyle replied to Brewerpaul's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
You may also add a "finished" tag. -
Glenn, your models always look very nice. I'm sure you'll do both Chris and James justice.
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Changing build log title?
ccoyle replied to Brewerpaul's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
Please note that the established paradigm is to insert the word FINISHED (all caps) right after the first section of the title (name of ship and username), set off by hyphens, e.g. SS Minnow by gilligan - FINISHED - Nonexistent Model Company - 1/48 scale -
Welcome aboard!
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Which side you scribe fold lines on definitely makes a difference. Fold lines should be scored on the side from which the fold bends away from; on most parts, this means that scoring will be done on the printed side.
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The kit includes wooden hearts that are attached to wooden posts along the hull side. The posts function as chainplates, the hearts as deadeyes. Other than that the shrouds are pretty much set up in the usual fashion.
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Sea Witch 1846 by Zooker - RESTORATION
ccoyle replied to Zooker's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
I can move this whole thread if you'd like. -
New to ship modelling? But what do you build first?
ccoyle replied to MSW's topic in Wood ship model kits
These are such important words for a beginner to hear! A first model doesn't have to be complex or fancy in order to be both satisfying to build and a good foundation for future projects. Cheers! -
True, I should have mentioned that generic detail sets from other companies are available. I was thinking about kit-specific detail sets when I wrote the post. Good catch!
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Wilhelmshavener is an interesting company. On the one hand, the have a large catalog of models. I haven't built any myself, but I have seen finished ones on various forums, and it's fair to say that WMV kits can be built into good-looking models. But as wefalck pointed out, many of their kits are long in the tooth and date back to well before the advent of widespread CAD usage in the hobby. It is difficult to tell from just looking at their website how old a particular kit is and whether it is hand-drawn or CAD-drafted. WMV also does not sell any aftermarket detail sets for their models, which is likewise an anachronism compared to the current state of the hobby. It's worth noting that the kit is marked as schwierig (difficult), which in card models suggests that the kit has either very small parts, a large number of parts, or possibly both. Building it might prove to be a tough slog if you have no previous card modeling experience.
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