Jump to content
Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order. ×

ccoyle

Moderators
  • Posts

    10,067
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. Thanks, Gary. I have actually been pondering most of the points you bring up. I have purchased a set of soft, roof-top pads, designed for cars without roof racks. The pads fasten through the passenger compartment and have the built-in straps that go over the canoe. Because of the canoe's length, it will need tie-downs at both bow and stern (also provided in the kit). Being a pack canoe, i.e. the paddler sits on the floor, the only thwart is the one to which the seat back attaches. I have seen many pictures of antique canoes that have hardware attached ("canoe jewelry"), and I am also well aware of the limited options for attachment -- I do not wish to ding my car top or elbows or knees on any poorly-placed hardware that sticks out where it shouldn't. But I have time to meditate on all this. Oh, and I have seen it recommended that soft carriers not be used at speeds above 55 mph (88 kph), which I don't see as an issue for the foreseeable future -- plenty of water to check out locally without needing to hop on the interstate. Thanks for checking in!
  2. I'm trying to keep in mind the old adage about the perfect being the enemy of the good. Mostly I just want a functional craft that will not result in my untimely death.😝 But, I do want it to look half-way decent, and I tell myself that a smoother hull will reduce drag and likely give me another 0.001 m/s of speed. 😋 Still, I don't really want to fork out more $$$ for primer, so it will be three coats max, if I can make it last that long.
  3. Personally, I have a thing for pre-Dreadnoughts, so Condorcet gets my vote.
  4. Remember that lovely first coat of primer? Hope y'all weren't too attached to it. You can get attached to the final coat of finish color -- whenever that happens.
  5. Whilst browsing around today, I came across a YouTuber who just happens to be at the same point of constructing a Sassafras 12 as I am. He's documenting his build in a series of videos. I found his video on priming very helpful. I'm reluctant to watch any of the earlier videos, for fear I might discover some fault in my methods that I probably don't want to know about at this point. 😬
  6. First coat of exterior primer. This coat of primer revealed quite a few wire holes that didn't fill in well with epoxy. One even appeared to have leaked white primer from the interior to the exterior -- which obviously is not good! I'll have to fill these in properly before the next coat.
  7. Fat chance! I've been thinking ahead to mooring options. When I finally get around to car-topping this thing, I will need anchoring points at both the bow and stern. Perhaps horn cleats ... ... or maybe pad eyes. These would also serve as points for attaching a painter or anchor line. Also thinking about where to attach them. Decisions, decisions.
  8. I'm on it -- first coat of interior primer on. If I had better light, I could've flipped it over and done coat #1 on the exterior, too, but I can't see well enough in the fading evening light to do a good taping job.
  9. Oooooh ... look what the UPS guy brought! Notice that the can on the far left is dented, as is one of the other cans where you can't see it. The cans are surprisingly flimsy, and they were shipped swaddled only in bubble wrap -- no Styrofoam board, no rigid cardboard. Pretty iffy packing for a fairly heavy and apparently easy to damage product. Just happy the United Parcel Smashers didn't destroy this shipment, too. Will probably try to get started with the primer tomorrow.
  10. Wood kits for ships of that era are rather few in number. Model Shipways has one of Flying Fish, and a couple of the European companies offer either Cutty Sark or Flying Cloud. MarisStella has a nice kit of the barque Stefano. There are also a few kits of some of the 20th-century sail training ships as well. But that's about it.
  11. Last plastic ship I worked on (not finished, mind you) was a 1/700 scale IJN Ise. That was 39 years ago. 😲
  12. Bingo! If one were a scale foot shorter than the other, I would have had much more to say about the two kits -- and not nice things, if you get my point. 😉 P.S. Last night I finished the horizontal and vertical stabilizer components for White Tail same as for Spanish Nationalist, so now the two planes are at the same point in their build sequences.
  13. Finally time for an update. I don't know why, but this 2-for-1 build is taking me twice as long as a regular build. 🤔😆 Anyways, I do a little here, a little there, just plodding along. The enormous parts count for the wing didn't help speed things up any. So, here's the wing for White Tail. Once again, the 7-piece set of skins for the center section defeated all of my efforts to obtain a neat result -- oh, well.
  14. The Saga Continues Got a new tracking number on Friday; paint is supposed to arrive by Tuesday 5/4 ... unless UPS destroys this one, too.
  15. Great work! Is card your main modeling medium or an occasional diversion?
  16. Interestingly, my last few card model shipments from Poland came clad in armor-like packaging and arrived in great shape.
  17. Interestingly, our products use metric (SI) almost exclusively.
  18. Technically, the US uses a system called US customary units. Although similar to imperial units, the two systems are not 100% identical. I only know this because I am a science writer and have to be careful regarding naming conventions and such. 😜 But yeah, we all knew what you meant. 😉
  19. Ugh -- the paint (or lack of it) saga continues. The new shipment of paint was supposed to be picked up by UPS on the 21st for delivery by the 23rd. Friday evening came and went -- still no paint. UPS tracking number turns up no info. I called the company on Saturday, but the customer service guy was out until Monday. Monday morning I contacted him by email and was assured that he would get hold of the warehouse manager and figure out where my paint was. Then nothing. This morning I emailed again, asking for a status update. <crickets> So this afternoon I sent yet another email -- an ultimatum this time: expedite my order or refund my money. We'll see how they respond.
  20. Not quite -- as Chuck pointed out, you can buy that kit direct from the manufacturer. Also, seasoned modelers know never to pay MSRP for anything from Model Expo. Get on their mailing list and wait for sales, of which they have many, often featuring deep discounts. Also also, keep an eye on FleaBay. Based on their Buy It Now prices and minimum bid settings, most sellers on eBay these days seem to think that their wares are made of solid gold, but bargains do occasionally turn up. Another option: try card models! They're dirt cheap compared to wooden or plastic kits and oodles of fun, too. Once you try card, you'll never go back to wood! Well, I still do, but maybe you won't! 😄 P.S. I will be reviewing some more card models in the near future -- watch for them in the Kit Reviews section.
×
×
  • Create New...