ccoyle

Nope -- just going with what is shown in the diagrams. Here is the finished cockpit for Spanish Nationalist (SN). And together with White Tail (WT), which already has her inner cockpit skin attached. And that's all until after Christmas. Happy holidays to all!

Wood glue is not absolutely necessary, but some modelers don't trust the durability of CA glue bonds. CA doesn't resist shear stress well, making its bonds somewhat brittle. This isn't a problem if you avoid sudden shocks to your model. But, on the other hand, I once saw a CA-bonded model fall off a table and literally shatter into all of its component parts once it hit the floor. Know the risks and advantages in advance, and then choose whichever glue suits your fancy.

Stunning result -- congratulations!

Back when I taught school in Upland, California, a teacher friend of mine who taught in Oceanside sent me a text that his school had hired a new chemistry teacher -- named Chris Coyle. I thought he was pulling my leg and told him as much, so he sent me the link to the guy's bio on the school's website. Sure enough, that was the guy's name. Small world. Anyways, back to the PWS-10. Here's a couple of shots of the cockpit on "White Tail." First, without the forward bulkhead and instrument panel -- this gives a better view of the framing and other details. The most challenging aspect to this point has been the chipboard. Like I said, it cuts like stone, but afterwards it is very bendy and rather delicate. I'm using the chipboard parts for "White Tail" because WT is a repaint, so I can't guarantee that its parts are a perfect 1-to-1 match for the parts sizes of the original kit, the Spanish Nationalist version, so WT gets the cheaper material. With the forward bulkhead and instrument panel in place, you can already notice that a lot of the fine detail will be difficult to see once the cockpit is skinned. C'est la vie. Now, you might be wondering where the other kit is. Well, there are so many parts in this cockpit build (59 by my count, give or take a few), that I decided to hustle through with this one cockpit first before moving on to the other. That one probably won't be finished soon, because I am heading out to California for Christmas. An unforeseen benefit of this decision (the cockpit, not the California trip) is that I discovered some pitfalls to the build sequence that I will know about in advance for build #2. Until then!

Wood or plastic?

Milestone: Yesterday I finished sanding all of the interior fillets and assorted oopsies. I also cleaned up the puzzle joints. Ridding the hull of all the fine dust posed an interesting problem, because I do not have a suitable vacuum for the task. However, I hit upon a nifty solution. After using a whisk to get most of the dust out, I took the canoe outside and blew the remainder out with my leaf blower. It worked a treat, too! Now, unless I missed something in the instructions (I will double-check, of course), we should be all set for interior fiberglassing.

Hello, Michael. I would assume that the kit is plank-on-bulkhead unless otherwise stated. Plank-on-frame would be a big selling point and would surely be mentioned if such were the case. Cheers!

Doh! I forgot about the plastic kits.

Welcome! Some people would probably say the same for me.

Sadly, these beautiful steel-hulled ships are rarely offered in kit form (they are large models, even in 1/96 scale). There are a few kits available of some of the extant tallships such as the one of Belem manufactured by the French company, Soclaine. Billing Boats has one for Danmark, Woody Joe makes one for Nippon Maru, and there are probably a couple of others that fail my mind at the moment.

Welcome from a California ex-pat living in the Deep South! I was raised in Humboldt County, but lived in Bay Area, SoCal, and Mariposa County at various times. I'm curious, too!

Love your pew-pew weights!

That is certainly true of their older kits, which, to be fair, were not intended to be difficult to build, as the name suggests (Maly Modelarz is Polish for "Young Modeler"). Though I have never built one myself, I have heard that their newer kits are considerably improved.

Awesome to see more progress on this! Those petal-type vents always drive me bananas, especially since I do not apparently have the Polish gene for excellence in card modeling. Yours look pretty good from here!

Impressive collection!

There is a particular knot to use, but I don't remember what it is off the top of my head. You should be able to find it, if you have any of the usual go-to rigging reference books. I can look it up when I get home if you're still in need of it at that time. Your knots should not come undone if you daub the ends with a bit of dilute white glue or fabric glue and let it dry before trimming. Also, you can create the proper sag by applying a bit of the same dilute glue to the rope and pressing lightly down on it with the end of a paint brush handle or thin dowel. It's looking good so far!

Super job, Liam!

They don't anymore.

You're off to a great and very tidy start. I think the basic OcCre kit looks nice, but like you said, it is a little on the simplistic side and could certainly benefit from a few improvements. Looking forward to seeing how you accomplish those. Cheers!

Not certain of your meaning here -- is there a question in there?

I wondered what that was. I saw it in my card model version, but of course the instructions are all in Polish.

Lovely model! Congratulations!

Congratulations on completing a challenging subject!

A novel subject -- I can pretty much guarantee that this is the first and only floating grain elevator shown on MSW!

Nice! Any square-rigged three-master is a challenge to build, and my hat's off to anyone who finishes one, especially if it's a scratch job.