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Hey, Al. I'm very fond of pre-Dreadnoughts, so I will watch this with interest. I added a little substance to your title so that folks won't be confuzzled about what a "dlog" is. Cheers!

1:250 Destroyer Escort USS ENGLAND (DE-635) HMV Available from Fentens Papermodels €24.99 Photo courtesy of Fentens Papermodels (All photos by the author except where noted.) Fresh off the presses from Hamburger Modellbaubogen Verlag (HMV) comes the Buckley-class destroyer escort USS ENGLAND (DE-635), famous in the annals of anti-submarine warfare for her unmatched feat of sinking six Japanese submarines in the span of only twelve days in May of 1944. You can read more about her exploits here, including how she survived a kamikaze strike in 1945. Public domain photo courtesy of Wikipedia Designed by Darius Lipinski, this exciting new release from HMV is in their usual scale of 1/250 and produces a model 372 mm in length (14.6 in.). The first thing one notices is the striking packaging -- the kit comes in booklet form, the cover shows several views of the completed prototype model, and the back cover features a montage of other HMV kit covers. You might also notice several interesting numbers -- the parts count on this one is a hefty 1567 (up to 1875 if all optional parts are used) printed on 11 sheets. England is printed in 1944's Measure 21 uniform dark blue-grey. The printing is sharp with excellent registration. A lot of parts in this kit end up visible on two sides, and these parts are all given reverse-side printing. A nice touch on this and other newer HMV kits is that the fold lines are no longer printed directly on the parts but rather adjacent to them. The instructions consist of a whopping 28 diagrams that cover every facet of construction. A brief introduction on how to interpret the symbols used on the diagrams is included in six languages: German, English, French, Japanese, Spanish, and Russian. Parts marked "A" can be replaced or enhanced with alternative parts that raise the level of detail. Parts marked "L" can be replaced with optional laser-cut details. A departure from previous HMV kits is that the "egg crate" hull construction has been significantly beefed up, with many more transverse bulkheads added and some parts doubled for additional strength (as indicated by a block-style "=" sign). The internal formers also do not include the typical gluing tabs that are normally used for attaching the hull sides. Overall, this method is more in line with that used by most Eastern European publishers, and I anticipate that this will make for easier hull construction and a more rigid substructure. As you can see, this is an incredibly detailed kit with a lot of very small parts, making this kit deserving of its schwierig (difficult) rating. Potential builders should definitely have a few completed card models under their belts before attempting this project. One way to simplify construction is to invest in the optional laser-cut detail set. This €29.99 option includes five frets of parts, including railings, ladders, davits, and other small parts. Replacing the railings and the multitude of "fiddly bits" with parts from the laser-cut set eliminates the tedium of cutting those delicate parts out and improves the finished look of the model. Personally, I feel that the time savings and the inherent neatness of the laser-cut parts makes them well worth the additional cost. The level of detail of this model, coupled with the fantastic appearance of the finished product, show again why HMV are considered a top-shelf card model publisher. But despite the kit's complexity, it is apparent that HMV have taken pains to ensure that a reasonably skilled builder is given every possible advantage toward finishing a very impressive, medium-sized model. The kit's wealth of detail and great choice of subject will no doubt make this kit a big seller. This author hopes that HMV will soon follow this design up with additional small warship subjects. If they do, we'll be sure to let you know! Thanks go to Fentens Papermodels for providing this review copy, which was securely packed to survive the journey across the pond and arrived in excellent condition. To purchase, visit the Fentens Papermodels website via the link at the top of this post -- they have a lot of really neat models in stock. If you place an order, be sure to tell them that Model Ship World sent you! Photo courtesy of Fentens Papermodels Photo courtesy of Fentens Papermodels Photo courtesy of Fentens Papermodels Photo courtesy of Fentens Papermodels

Just be aware that the laser set does not include the base model, so the kit and detail set together come to €21.98 -- still a far cry from any plastic kit and its associated PE upgrades.

Okay, I will edit the title for you. Enjoy your project!

1:250 Steam Harbor Tug WARATAH 1902 HMV Available from Fentens Papermodels €8.99 Photo courtesy of HMV (All photos by the author except where noted.) The steam tug Waratah was built in 1902 for service in Sydney Harbor, Australia. She is presently part of the Sydney Heritage Fleet and is used for harbor excursions. You can read more of her history at the Sydney Heritage Fleet website. Fresh off the presses and designed by Carsten Horn, Hamburger Modellbaubogen Verlag (HMV) now offer this eye-pleasing vessel as a card model in their usual 1/250 scale. At that scale, the finished model is a mere 133 mm in length (5.23 in.), which may not seem all that small until the kit is actually seen in person! The kit consists of only 246 parts on two sheets, but because of the many tiny pieces, the kit is marked schwierig (difficult), so some prior experience in card modeling is desirable. The printing is up to the usual high standards of HMV, with sharp colors, excellent registration, and a good amount of detail. Reverse-side printing has been done on parts that will be visible on two sides. Parts marked with an "A" indicate alternate parts to provide additional detail, such as doubling doors. An "L" indicates that the part can be replaced with an optional laser-cut piece (available separately). Longtime builders of HMV models will notice that fold lines, which used to be printed right on the part to be folded, are now printed adjacent to the part instead, which is a nice improvement. Directions for construction consist in the main of a series of 13 diagrams. A very brief description of how to interpret the various markings on the diagrams is provided in six languages (German, English, French, Spanish, Japanese, and Russian). The diagrams appear to be very thorough; part numbers are plainly marked, and alternate and laser-cut optional parts are indicated as well. Also included is a rigging diagram, which, for such a small model, is thankfully very simple. The hull is built in HMV's usual "egg-crate" style, based on a longitudinal hull profile piece and a number of transverse bulkheads. Hull sides are attached to tabs that fold up or down from the base plate and deck. With an MSRP of only €8.99, this nice little model won't make a big dent in anyone's budget. The laser-cut detail set, at €12.99, costs a bit more, but in my opinion it is money well-spent, since the set includes nearly all of the "fiddly bits" pre-cut in colored card stock. This spares the modeler a lot of time and nerve-wracking effort spent cutting out tiny and delicate parts, and also greatly enhances the look of the finished model. Waratah's detail set includes a whopping 11 frets of variously-colored parts. With or without the detail set, Waratah should build into a very detailed and attractive small model, one that satisfactorily captures the certain elegance that workboats of a bygone era possessed. This kit is thus a welcome addition to HMV's fleet of civilian vessels. Thanks are due to Fentens Papermodels for sending out this review example. If you enjoyed this review, you can show your appreciation to Fentens by visiting their website. If you make a purchase, be sure to mention that Model Ship World sent you! Photo courtesy of Fentens Papermodels

True, Harvey is fictitious, but the type is not. There's lots of info available on Baltimore clippers, so detail her as much as you like, then give her a name that means something to you -- like the name of your oldest, who graciously made way for your work area! Have fun!

Is this your AL Virginia kit?

Properly cared for, i.e. cased, to protect against dust and insects, a card model should prove to be as durable as a wooden model (after all, card is wood). The biggest threat to a card model is over-exposure to light, which may fade some inks.

Hold my (root)beer...

Ah -- I hadn't realized that U-534 was also a museum ship. I just assumed it's present location was somewhere on the bottom of the Atlantic. I learned something today.

U-505 is a Type IXC boat, while U-534 (launched over a year later) was a slightly larger Type IXC/40. Beyond that, I do not what the differences are, but that should get you started.

Hi, Bill. I took the liberty of removing your email address from your post; otherwise, you would be a target for unsolicited spam generated by web crawlers. Members can contact you through our private messaging system. I'm not sure what you mean by "anything you might have." MSW does not sell model kits, though our members may advertise them in our traders and dealers section. If you are new to wooden models, I suggest taking some time to browse around our site. Check out some of the clickable links to our site sponsors (home page, right-hand side), some of whom are kit vendors. Also search or browse through the kit build logs and look for titles that have the words "first build" in them -- that will give you a good idea of what other first-time modelers are building. Bear in mind that modeling in wood is a different ballgame than working in plastic, so it pays to start simple. Hope this helps a bit.

No real 'bibles' of ship modeling that I know about, but there's plenty of good books out there. I enjoyed Frank Mastini's Ship Modeling Simplified when I was a beginner -- it gives a food overview of the building process. Check your local library -- they often have a smattering of ship modeling books on hand.

I think you failed the "convey the idea" mission, 'cause to me those look like exact replicas! 😲😉 Edit: Just for fun, here's something that, in my mind, "conveys the idea" of a Sea Fury, albeit perhaps not very well. Your model, OTOH, looks like a proper miniature Sea Fury!

Stump masts is certainly an option. One thing I would caution about, based on my own experience, is building two models of the same subject. Once I build something a first time, I have essentially zero interest in building it again. Something to think about before making a big time investment in a kit that's not really the kit you want to build.

Um ... I'm not sure how one would do that. A kit is designed to go together a certain way. The only way I can think of to 'simplify' something like Vasa would be to leave off the ornamentation (in which case it wouldn't be a good likeness of the original). Or get a simpler kit, e.g. something in plastic.

BTW, if anyone wants to drool over some nice hand tools, check out https://www.woodcraft.com/pages/japan-woodworker.

Great work, and I really like the display. Always a treat to see a finished model from one of the lesser-known manufacturers as well. Cheers!

Hi, Ekis. I didn't respond earlier because I am now in South Carolina, so not close enough to be of much help. Two other options you might try are contacting the Ship Modelers Association (Fullerton) and the CIMM Ship Model Guild (Oxnard). One or the other of these clubs might have a member interested in doing the work. Hope that helps.

Looks fabulous -- congratulations!

Exactly! I have seen many beautiful models with their metal work left bright. And if a modeler is going to make a fuss over finishing metal, then to be consistent he/she ought to fuss over accurately painted wood as well; so long, great-looking bare woodwork! To each their own.

One of my dad's former students was stationed aboard USS Aspro (SSN-648), a Sturgeon-class boat.

Kevin, I have actually used the technique you described on several small models, keyword = small. The reason you don't get the dome-shape on the first application is because wood glue is water-based. The surface skins over first, and as additional moisture leaves, the structure contracts, which is why you found it necessary to apply multiple dabs. It takes a very steady hand to get the dollops of glue uniformly sized and spaced, which is partly why I have only ever used it on small projects. Something like 4000 bolt heads? Eh, no thanks!

Okay, here is a little update. First of all, I just came off a two week spell of having essentially zero energy for modeling. First I had a routine outpatient procedure done, after which I immediately came down with COVID-19. Now despite having previously joked that in the event of COVID I would just enjoy time off work and build models for two weeks, the truth is that all I felt like doing was laying around and watching TV. On a positive note, I also lost most of my appetite and shed 10 pounds -- yay!! Overall my symptoms were mild, but I was hit hard by low energy and chest congestion, which made me feel constantly winded. So, all I managed to get done during this time was finish the wing, vertical stabilizer, and rudder for Spanish Nationalist. This is not the best wing I have ever done, partly due to the wing having so many skin sections, resulting in a finished wing with 14 longitudinal seams, eight in the small middle section alone. Seams are always a booger to do well and always seem to be visible, no matter how much care is used in the attempt. So 14 of them is a bit of a problem. This visual hiccup is something I have noticed in other finished builds of this particular kit, even though they were otherwise very good. For comparison, each wing skin on my aborted Curtiss Hawk build was a single piece, one left and one right, with no longitudinal seams. It makes a big difference. BTW, part of this sequence was accomplished with the mysterious new klej (glue) I ordered from Poland. On a hunch, I tried it out on some scrap card stock and confirmed my suspicion that yep, it is just contact cement, albeit in a tube rather than in a bottle as we are accustomed to seeing it in this country. When used in the proper manner for contact cement, it works quite well, but it's not the "Miracle Card Modeling Glue" some of us had hoped for. As an addendum to this update, I'll note that having a respiratory infection like COVID and working around very fine epoxy resin dust are probably not the best combination of activities, so needless to say I didn't get any work done on the Sassafras 12 over the last two weeks, either, so an update on that project will be delayed. Cheers!

Beautiful result!