WackoWolf

Thank you for your Interest Antony!
 
Well, due to usual summer activities not much happend in the shipyard since the last update, but now the Bounty is back on the work bench.
I'am still busy with hull fairing and sanding, although the Frames were preshaped it is a lot left to sand.
A few Frames are undersized, don't know why, might be paper distortion from the copys or carelessness from my side. Anyway, got to fix those spots  with adding woodstrips and sanding.
 
Hopefully it will be done in a few days.....

I have spend some spare time on the Bounty,
 
All the Frames are installed now, followed by the Transom wing.
I think it will be better to start fairing the hull before moving on to the transom parts to prevent damage as the parts are very fragile.
So, next is to copy the Body lines from the planes and prepare some templates for the sanding party.
 
 
 
 

Hi all,
the last half Frames are roughly shaped and dry fitted to the hull structure.
 
Next is to adjust and glue them before moving on to the transom parts.
 
I wish a happy Easter weekend to all of you!
 
 

The templates that I cut from Sheet #2 of the drawings worked out very well.  I marked the locations of all the gun ports and sweeps and then proceeded to cut and assemble all the pieces.  After installing each group of pieces making up the gun ports and sweeps I sanded them down to their rough shape.
 

 
 
After the sweeps were glued and dried I sanded everything down to their final shape.   This was a lot of sanding.
 

 
 
For sanding I used my dermal to take off a majority of the material, for the final sanding I used the sanding blocks shown below.  I had seen the red blocks in Marsares's Syren build and liked their shape so I purchased two.  The 20mm wide sander was very handy for doing the inboard side of the bulwarks, the 40mm wide one was good for doing the outboard side with its rounded surface.  The one I made from a cardboard tube with sandpaper taped to it also worked very well for the outboard side.  The emery boards and pencil sander I used to clean up the inside of the gun ports.
 

Bending the oak strips 3 x 3 mm works quite well, but they have to be soaking wet. There is only one problem, it is quite difficult to twist them as well in the round areas.  Sanding the hull must do the trick in the end...
 

 

 
 

checked out your stern shihawk and its looks fine, commercial parts are nearly always a let down but you have cleaned them up super, as for the carving you must use the correct material, I purchased some boxwood and like you had a go, took a couple of attempts to get the hang of it and although not perfect they look ok, here`s my version of the right hand strong man and the view through a macro lens shows all the errors but when looking with the naked eye he`s acceptable.

Sorry for intruding, but I felt I like to be part of this conversation.
No, I don't have a Byrnes table saw, but it's on the "wishing list".
Because not having such I have been buying strips from Jeff at HobbyMill.
Since he is to close down his business there won't be any more of the high quality strips available.
See where I am heading?
And yes, buying ready made strips are more expensive than buying a plank and ripping it yourself.
Price difference may vary depending on the material, but I did a short comparison and found the strips being about three times more costly than a plank and ripping it.
Sure you will have a higher initial cost buying the Byrnes table saw, but it won't take much before it has paid itself versus buying strips.
I do have the thickness sander and am very happy with it.
But this is only my two cents.
 
Ps. The Byrnes table saw can be used in other applications besides ship modelling.

Hi Boyd
The one piece of advise I would offer,if you do decide to buy a table saw don't make the same mistake as me,save the extra and buy the Byrnes not the Proxxon FET like me.Whilst the saw itself is fine,the precision repeat-ability of cuts using the saw guide is questionable.Yes there are ways around it involving lots of faffing,but this is one component I am less than impressed with.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

a French comedian (can't remember which one) said
 
"You never grow up. It's just the price of the toys that changes. " How true.
 
Nick

poner un poco de Portas

5” Practice Loader
 
 
Like most ships armed with 5” guns in the early 60’s, the Basilone had a practice loading machine so that the crews could increase the manually-loaded guns’ rate of fire and not get killed or hurt in the process. The electro-mechanical based analog fire control systems of that day were not nearly as “tight” as the computer-based digital systems in use today that can come close to delivering “one shot - one hit,” even on high-speed maneuvering targets. 
In order to increase the probability of getting a kill on an air target the number of rounds had to be increased by increasing the rate of fire. An equally important goal was to reduce the risk of loading crews getting hurt. The inside of a 5 inch gun mount is very constricted, every surface is slick with oil, grease or hydraulic fluid. The mounts slewed rapidly when tracking a target making it difficult to maintain balance and footing and anyone who failed to remain clear of the recoiling gun would have been mashed; hence the use of practice loaders that allowed the crews to choreograph their movements without the risk of getting hurt. Here’s a shot of a WWII gun crew practicing on a loader:

The kit provides a brittania casting that is really quite good given its size. Since I wanted to include the open base and the loading platform I decided to scratch my own. The two castings on the left where ordered from HR Products, the better one on the right is the kit-provided one.

Here’s the finished scratch version with the kit casting as a comparison:

Looks like I am becoming a hand tools fetishist.. There is something nice about working with a high quality chisels and knifes - no noise, no sawdust, and you feel like making a pinocchio
 
 
 
Especially surprised with the knife - it is the sharpest knife I ever held, it make a clean cut without any pressure, and it is heavy and sharp enough to ignore the grain direction!
But it reminds that as with any hand tool - you need to practice and learn a lot to use it nicely...

 
 
The shape of a rabbet was asymmetrical to meet the planks on a proper angle:

 
Result is not perfect, there are a few ooopsies, luckily most of them are on the inner side, which would be invisible.

 

 
I will not cut a rabbet on a side that would be fully opened. Not able to cut it smooth enough to make it fully exposed.

The ledges are done.  Those that land on the arms take a great deal of care to get all the angles correct.  The hatch frame is not attached yet.  I made the waterway by cutting a bevel from a sheet on the Byrnes saw, cut to approximate width and thicknessed on the Byrnes thickness sander and finally cut to final width.  I then ran the piece over the blade set at a 1" cut several times to bring the one side to the 3" thickness.  The planks are 3" x 10".  As the planks line up, only two or three will need minor tapering.  Figuring the planks closest to the enter line / partners takes special care where the pumps come through the deck.  I still have to decide if I install the hanging knees behind the aft beam.  If so, I will extend the planking to the edge of the knee, not the beam.  Any thoughts?
Maury

Thanks guys. 
 
I did get the catheads fitted last night after the other photos were already up. Fit is good and bowsprit test looks good too. 

Hello everyone and thank you all for visiting and your like votes, much appreciated.
 
Well, dinner is done and i watched a fabulous nature show with my dear bride Gwen.  Birds of paradise in New Guinea.  
So, now back to the dingy saga, almost finished with version 1.0.  My wife asked me also, version 1.0?  Proto type?  That means version 2.0 is coming up?   Plan to gold plate that one????  She has a wry sense of humor, must be her English blood 
 
Today I made the four oar locks, the bow lifting / mooring ring and started with the oars.  I also painted everything dark grey and it's not looking all that bad.  I want to let the paint dry and then do some fine sanding on the outside and one more coat of paint.  It's amazing how much time goes into such a little boat, especially when it's klinker planked.
 
Okay, here are a few pics.
 

These oar locks are made from thin brass sheet and 0.5 mm brass rod.  The strips are about 1.5 mm wide and 5 mm long.  I bend them into a U shape around a 1 mm rod and drilled a 0.5 mm hole in it for the pin.  Then soft-soldered it together and trimmed them.  
 

First I made an eye bolt with a 0.5 mm eye.  Then a ring from 0,5 mm brass rod and looped it into the eye bolt and soft soldered it shut.  It' too crude to my liking and will remake the ring from thinner brass rod.  That's why it's a prototype    I drilled a hole in the bow frame and cemented the eye bolt in.
Yep, it's klinker planked alright.
 

Here I have put the oar locks into their little holes so they can swivel when rowing.  They'll be readjusted when the oars are completed for a better fit and appearance. 
 

Here is the dingy with two coats of dark grey paint and two oars.  Okay, I only painted one oar because I was still working on the second one when i decided to paint.  I may have to make the oar blades a little longer and thin the shanks some some.
 

 

 
Cheers,
 
 

Ok, sick to death or rope coils. I could probably go on and on and on with them, so I had to draw a line in the sand and stop. I have added the swivel guns (prepared ages ago - May 2012). I have added a photo of the swivel gun provided with the kit as well which is about 200 years out of date I think.
 
I have actually prepared the flagstaffs for the bow and the stern, but I need some advice on the flags. Each of the masts have a trunnel for flags as well. Do I use them?

A Little at a time will get you there, but DAM she is big. Keep the updates and pictures coming, and Thank you for sharing with us.

Hi again,
 
after a short break I would like finally finished my Royal Caroline. Although most of the parts are already done, there is still a lot of work on the sails and rigging. I started slowly preparing blocks and auxiliary cables on the bowsprit. Jib traveller will be mounted later on bowsprit.

little progress: I started the construction of the deck beams

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jadzo,
 
Thanks for your kind remarks. Regarding the figures, no no primer was use. I just washed the figures, and using hobby paint just applied it directly upon the gilded metal. All the colors adhered very easily.
 
Thanks for dropping by.
 
MIchael

And on we go with some trifles :-)
 
I was wondering how to create furniture without it looking like dollhouse toys. Ok, off I went to find out.
 
Luckily I was successful, only have to stick to the true dimensions :-)
 

 
Here the substructure, fast done and quite stable.
 

 
Contemporary drawings always show the tables direction fore aft, so I displayed them over the massive partner of the sternpost. Like this canvas cabins could be erected on the ship´s sides.
The openings on the deck are no litter bins but aft there are the two scuttles of the ventilation trunks of the hold and in the front the scuttle for the bread room and in the middle the one for the Lady´s hole, means the stuff of the gunner. The gratings are flipped open for better ventilation.
 

 

 
Here we already have the name of the area, the gun room. The gunner had his quarters here and was then highest warrent officer in this area.He had a canvas cabin on starboard and larboard was the one from the chaplin. The area also was the mess for the warrent officers, junior lieutenants, marine officers and first class volunteers. Here also the chaplin taught the junior midshipmen. The Area was separeted from the rest of the deck by means of canvas covers.
 
  
 

 
Still have to redo the canvas blinds, but they work well as layout separations.
 
I hope, I got the details right,
 
cheers Daniel
 
PS: Could not resist to show the Tic Tac in place :-)

A substantial update:
I finished the decorations and everything related to the bowsprit.
It lacks some bits, rings, hooks and standing rigging of the bowsprit, but the most important part has been done.
I finished the two wolf's heads of the catheads, and the two small decorations of the bowsprit.
In that way I had the possibility to add the rope that secures the bowsprit to the bow (see related photo).
Honestly I was rather bored of all these decorations...
But at least 90% of the ship's decorations has done at the moment.
Now before proceeding further i need to:
-make at least 10 up to 12 customised kevels;
-Make at least 8 customised double blocks (in italian, violin type) for the standing rigging of the foremast;
-Make at least 10 bitts for the bow section of the ship.
So a lot of "boring work" is waiting for me...
This work is a "noisy work", so it will be difficult to proceed during the week, but mainly during week-end.

another small update
As can be seen I am proceeding (very slowly) with the ship painting.
In the meanwhile I finished the stern deck railing, which will be leaved with its natural color (maybe with some oil addition to exalt the walnut colour).
I am starting to "fill" the main deck with its accessories.
That is a rather complex part, since the informations are scarce and I must use other sources and books to complete it.
I added the two main walnut strips that limit the central zone of the deck.
There will be secured the rings for the cannons blocks.
These strips are present (more or less) in the original drawing,too. I draw red arrows to show them better.
They limit (in the drawing) a grey zone were probably a different and more reinforced planking is present, specifically near the main mast and foremast.
I placed the foremast bitts and related belaying pins.
I am still studing how to complete the deck accessories trying to be historically correct, but it is not so an easy task.

Hi Guys,
 
Welcome aboard Wes, glad you could make it mate.
 
Just a short update, nothing much to show at the moment.
 
I have completed the proper keel and it fits nicely into the framing jig, the practice piece and the proper one to show that there has been no
 
Following a discussion with Grant this morning it was decided that we would start on the frames, I decided that I was going to make-up the 0 frame, this is the 5th frame in and is the first double to have the cut outs for the sweep ports and filling lintels. I haven't  made one of these yet.
 
First up was to copy the template onto a A4 sticky label, cut out the templates and stick onto a prepared sheet 1/4 in Pear. Using my trusty Proxxon Scroll Saw ( which only cuts crooked lines ) I then cut out the parts of the frame, the wedges which are really small have a bit extra left for easy handling.
 
Next up was to sand down the frame parts, so using my trusty Proxxon Disc Sander ( you know the one, it's got my DNA on it ) I sanded down the outside curve, why just the outside I hear you ask, well I need to get a larger diameter drum sander. Its too easy to wear down a small area with the sander I have and that doesn't make for a pretty frame, so it's a trip down to the DIY shop to try a get hold of one.
 
I do have a few pics but please don't get excited, this is really work in progress.
 
The old and the new
 
 
 
 

 
Not much as I say but there will be more to follow, just not tonight. Please ignore the attached thumbnail gents.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 
 

continua con ojos de buey