NMBROOK

Hi Nigel.Brook
 
I just found your build log On the Sovereign of The Sea, you are doing an out standing job on her with  all the great details that you are scratch building and adding to your fine ship. I love your idea of going with the beauty of the natural wood, I wanted to try it on my HMS Victory but decided that my wood working skills were not up to snuffs , but now with a bit of practice I may give it a try on my next build. Keep up the great work and Enjoy.
 
Regards   Lawrence

I have to admit my patience has been stretched several times working on the prow deck.I have had numerous pieces filed in the 'recycling section' and have had to remake them.I feel I am on the home straight now,but I can't believe how long it is taking.I include some pics of as it is today.The gratings are caldercraft 1mm ones as small children could fall through the ones supplied.
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi everyone,
 
I chanced to find remaindered copies of the book 'Sovereign of the Seas' by James Sephton for only £6.99 in
'The Works'  (UK chain discount bookshop)
 
I bought a copy in Plymouth today and the shop assistant  'thinks' copies would also be in other branches.
 
I flag this up as this is a superb, very well researched book and would prove invaluable for modellers thinking about or
building this vessel, or indeed as a very good reference book.
 
Amazon have this book listed at over £16.00, and one of the reviews is well worth reading.
 
Hope this will prove useful information, regards, Nick 
 
 
 

Thank you Joe, Nigel, mij and druxey. I get so little time in the shop, and the build moves so slowly. Your encouragement definitely helps to keep things moving along.
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark

Hi Sherry
Fabulous carving work!If you use an exterior grade clear poly,this has a brown tint which will turn the carving yellow with a couple of thin coats.The highlight of using this is you will get a deeper colour in the recesses of the carving and it will bring the detail out even more.
Kind Regards Nigel

Sure Bob, any help?
 

 

 
The base is only MDF which I don't much like so I'll replace it when I can. The main column is 20 x 330mm Silver Steel (precision ground rod)

No I did'nt make it. They made a batch of them where I worked for PCB drilling and were kind enough to let me have one when I said I was going to make one myself.
It seems like a nice design though.

Joe,
Like I say it is only a cheapy,you can spend a small fortune on one.I read the reviews and thought I would give it ago having burnt out two 60w conventional irons.Works like a dream,can't fault it.
Kind Regards Nigel

I too have found Walnut difficult to work. However, I have discovered that if you sand or file it with a medium grade something it works very well. Something else in a dark wood is African Blackwood. Can be as dark as Ebony, but not quite as difficult to work/
Larry

I agree on Walnut being brittle. Especially if cutting for planks, etc..I guess the question is, "what other dark woods are there?". Any wood can be stained dark. If you're thinking of celebrating a woods characteristics rather than covering it up, then look to African woods.
 
Wenge, is a dark dense wood with interesting contrast in it's grain.
 
Bublinga, has variuos tones of reds to almost black. Works well. it's used for instruments and fine woodworking from the smallest details to the largest projects. (this is one of my favorites)
There are others, but these are the two that stick out to me. In fact, i'm going to incorporate Bublinga into my current build
 
Of course there's Ebony, but for many reasons, you're better off ebonizing Boxwood in my opinion.
 
 
Warm Regards,
 
Bill

Nigel,
 
    I am guessing they are like Harbor Freight here in the US. I will check them out the next time I stop in there. I will also give Micro Mark a look to see what they have, even though I know you can get it somewhere else cheaper. Heck I can stop at Hobby Lobby also.
Now I just have to remember to stop there LOL.

I started using resistance soldering and I love it. I can even use it to solder metal on plastic models. Micro Mark sells a couple of units, one of which is very economical. I only recommend if you plan on doing a lot of soldering though.
   Ron W.

Hi Mark
I had the great pleasure of reading your log for the first time yesterday but thought if I waited overnight I would be able to find the words to express my sheer admiration for your work,trouble is morning is here and I still can't find them!
So sorry absolutely astounding will have to do
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Larry,I think what you are trying to ask is which way do they run diagonally.If this is the case,I am not aware of any rules applying to this.I generally make them run the same way in each elevation of the ship.I do make them opposite between the sides of the ship.In my case I make the top treenail in the plank closest to the bow on both sides.The only reason they are diagonal in my mind is to generate the largest clamping area possible,which way they are orientated is immaterial.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Wow Matti,your paintwork is incredible!!!Really stunning work Buddy        
 
Kind Regards Nigel

good evening everyone
 
one of the platforms required the lugs to be removed so that it could be replaced by PE, i did not remove 100% but kept a little so that i had something to use as a level then i slightly shortened the support bars so that it fitted into place

work continues on the forward island, non of the platform level have been glued into position so may seam slightly squiffy, and it is all work in progress 
the reason for the black banding on the bridge is an error, i pained the inside, during which the front masking fell off, oh hum

I have cut proof gloves that I use in sculpting. They are made to allow control while protecting from cuts.
I may be silly, but I'm not crazy...
 
my mother had me tested!
 
RT

Thanks to all for the information.  It looks pretty straightforward to attach the x-y to the Dremel, and if I need to I can upgrade to a better stand, such as the Vandalay or sell it and buy the proxxon or sherline if I really get into it.  What's nice is that I feel I now have enough information from your experiences to go ahead and make a start of it.
 
OK, I will embarrass myself and show you what I did just to try it out without a compound table.
 
 

 
So, first thing I realized was that moving the jig with one hand while holding the head to the right height with the lever was not going to provide the best quality. 
 
But, it did provide decent cutouts for a plank that met a gun port. I think I am going to enjoy milling.
 
RT

Dam, now that is talent. Does he ever go out. That much work, never goes out to play. Thank you for the link, That is out of this world. Andy needs to see this.

I will keep this short and sweet as not to detract from Kevin's thread.If you fancy scratchbuilding a wooden Bismarck,here is some food for thought.There is a modeler over here in the UK called Jimmy Wood.Although his specialty is offshore vessels,he works exclusively in wood and brass to the scale of 1/100.Construction wise I cannot foresee much difference building a warship.He has won several gold medals for his work.Here is an example
 
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Shows/Midlands_2004/Seawell/index.htm
 
Kind Regards Nigel

I will keep this short and sweet as not to detract from Kevin's thread.If you fancy scratchbuilding a wooden Bismarck,here is some food for thought.There is a modeler over here in the UK called Jimmy Wood.Although his specialty is offshore vessels,he works exclusively in wood and brass to the scale of 1/100.Construction wise I cannot foresee much difference building a warship.He has won several gold medals for his work.Here is an example
 
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Shows/Midlands_2004/Seawell/index.htm
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Building a Plexi-glas display case.
 
Just the facts:
1. Measure carefully ($Free)
2. Order up some cut-to-size Plexiglas ($50 from TAP plastics online)
3. Glue it up (Weld-On 3 with applicator bottle and needle, $15 from amazon.com)
 
Total cost: $65 and you can use the glue again next time.
 
Ordering Plexiglas
 
1. Know the size of the case you want. The base dimensions will be the INSIDE dimensions of the case.
 
-L (length) in the direction of the long axis of your model
-W (width) which is the direction of the beam of your model
-H (height) which is, um, the height you want.
-T (thickness) of the plexiglas you want.
 
The TOP piece will be the size you want the inside dimension of the case, plus the thickness of the Plexiglas.
1 (one) each: L+2T x W+2T
 
The FRONT pieces (the biggest pieces, the ones you will likely view the model through) will be
2 (two) each: L+2T x H
 
The END pieces will be
2 (two) each W x H
 
For example, lets say you decide you want the INSIDE dimensions of your case to be
 
L = 20 inches
W = 6 inches
H = 24 inches
T = 3/32”
 
Therefore you should order
One TOP at 20 3/16” x 6 3/16”
Two FRONTs at 20 3/16” x 24”
Two ENDs at 6 x 24”
 
Next is the actual gluing up of the case.  There isn’t much to be said. Study the diagram carefully. Basically, you want to use just enough of the Weld On to be pulled into the joint by capillary action. Be careful not to drip the solvent onto anywhere but the joint. 
 
Pull some of the protective backing from the plexi sheet where your joint will be, leaving an inch or so. Leaving most of the protective sheeting in place means less chance of scratching and less chance of dripping solvent/glue onto the viewing surfaces.  But if you don’t peel it back a bit from the edge, capillary action will suck the glue up onto the viewing surface between the sheet and the plexi.
 
I used a carpenter’s square and masking tape to hold everything in place while gluing. It doesn’t seem to matter if you apply the WeldOn from the inside corner or the outside of the joint; it gets sucked into the seam really well either way. I think doing it from the outside is less chance of dripping onto the viewing surfaces of the case.
 
Only do one joint at a time. I started with attaching the TOP to one of the FRONTs, but it doesn’t really matter.
 
You may want to sand the edges a bit with regular sandpaper to make the edges really smooth. I did this, though I’m not sure it accomplished anything.
 
The glue dries really fast.  In about 10 minutes, you can do the next joint. The whole box took me about 1 hour to make.
 

 
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Background and other Pointers:
 
Your model ship deserves a case. I looked at my Phantom sitting on the cabinet for over a year, watching it get dusty, before I figured this out. Some quick online research and, holy cow, a custom case is about $400 to start! Wow! That is 4+ times as much as the kit cost.  And it is, you know, $400!  So, this option fails goal #1.
I then looked about a bit more, and came across modelshipcases.com where you can buy an e-book detailing how to make your own gorgeous custom cases. So I bought that and it is a pretty good resource. Unfortunately, you really need a full woodshop or, at least, some basic woodworking tools like a table saw and some space. Maybe someday, or at least if I had a proper shop, but for right now my “shop” is the floor of my tiny NYC apartment and all of my “equipment” has to fit into a file box. So that was a fail on goal and #3, so this option didn’t work either.
So, what is left? Buying one is out even though it would look the best. Making my own from the available plans would be great, but I don’t/can’t make that happen so that is out. I guess I have to make one myself, by my own design.
 
Dimensions: Measure your boat. Several online sites suggest adding an extra 4 inches length-wise and 2 inches or so height-wise. My Phantom is a pretty small model and I think that would result in a way to big case. So I sort of settled on 14 inches long by 3.5 inches wide by 16 inches high. These are INSIDE dimensions (important!).
 
Cutting Plexi-glas.
 
This is where I failed. There are three options.
 
1. Order it cut to size.
This is, by far and away, the best option even for my very cheap disposition. It will come to your door perfectly sized, edges crisp, and for about 20% more than if you bought the material yourself. Just do this. Seriously. If you really are that cheap and choose not to, read on, but be warned.
 
2. Cut it yourself with a scoring tool
This is the first method I tried.  I had previously cut some plexi for another project, and it was easy at the time so why not. But it was long enough ago that I forgot all the fine details. 
 
I purchased the raw material for $30 tax included. The scoring tool I already had but that was about $7 at Home Depot. Ordering the material cut to size (see #1 above) was $41 shipped. Honestly there isn’t much of a difference between about $37 and about $40. There was a huge difference in $40 and $400 to have someone else build one for me though.
 
If you still want to save that $3, you can do so as follows:
 
     Use any convenient straight edge. I put the plexi on the floor right on the carpet of the living room, put a board on top of it as a straight edge, and stood on top of the board to keep it from moving.
SCORE AT LEAST 10 TIMES. I cannot emphasize this enough. If you don’t, when you break off the piece the crack will go in a random direction and mess up the whole thing.
            Then flip the thing over and score a few times on the other side of the plexi.
 
     Another possible (likely) scenario is that you are scoring along, the first 5 or 7 scores feel good and go one right on top of another, then the eighth score takes off away from the straight edge you are using and BAM. Big ol’ nasty scratch across what had hoped would be a useable piece of Plexiglas. Into the scrap bin! But, like me, you try to salvage it, and instead of breaking cleanly along the 7 scores, it fractures across the entire sheet of raw material, and the ENTIRE thing goes into the scrap box.
 
Just order it cut for you.
 
3. Cut it yourself with a table saw.  If you have a table saw (I don’t) this could be a way to go. But you’d probably need a special blade, it might melt instead of cut… I don’t know.  Just order it pre-cut for you. 

Hi Michael
Yes the miller is a handy tool.I have recently started a thread on using it and jigs that can be produced with it.I have the pantograph attachment landing early next week and I have just received a digital readout for the vertical axis.
You seem to have the most vital thing of all,plenty of light!
Arrr whiskey,unfortunately can't drink it,you are correct plenty to choose from   Been round the Highland Park distillery on Orkney but had to refrain from the free tasters .You have got me thinking now,I am not sure if oddbins are still going?They were everywhere and I know there aren't any left in my neck of the woods
Kind Regards Nigel

I can't really consider micro mark electric tools due to voltage etc - Europeans would be in the same boat. Proxxon markets worldwide with the appropriate voltage configuration. Many times I would have liked to buy USA tools - mainly due to the price and variety available but then I would need to run a proper transformer it's not usually the case that a differently configured plug will do the job. So I don't have anything at all against mm or other tools available in USA it's just not a viable option for me