bdgiantman2

Hey Brian, amazing progress with this ship of yours! She looks very authentic and should get many prizes. Just as a FYI, with my current model ship (Brig Eagle of Lake Champlain in 1814), I also bought an American flag with the 13 stars in the circular pattern. Of all the places, to get the flag in the size suggest getting (the size of an index card), I ended up buying from a company in England! Will need to see if able to find the name of the company to send to you over private messaging. I tried companies in the United States like Blue Jacket, but the biggest options they had available was 1:96 scale or else it was too modern.
 
I look forward to additional progress on this amazing model as well as whatever your next project will be on here.
 
Brian D

After completing the inner planking I can now move on to the next step which is removing the jig that has supported the ship during construction of the frames and the inner planking. Instead of the whole jig from now on the ship is supposed to sit on two plywood panels that are just put into pre-cut slots of the building board.
 

 
I initially fixed the side doors with wood-screws so they could easily be removed when necessary for example to check the fit of the frames during installation. Just some unscrewing needed ..
 

 
.. as well as on the other side.
 

 
The center section is glued together using one small plywood part on each side. Unfortunately it cannot be removed easily as it holds the construction tight inside the jig. So I had to lift the whole assembly up and cut twice into the plywood center section - and even then I had to use slight force to remove it completely. The last step was to put the new plywood support panels inside the building board and the ship onto it.
 

 

 

I have just finished the planking job. The port side has a mirrored starboard planking layout, turned out not bad - but after this build I won‘t use cherry wood again for ship-modeling. Here are some pictures ..
 

 

 

 

 

 
I still need more planking experience but every step I pass makes it a little easier. Just a little sanding where needed and then the Coureur is ready to be released from the jig to start the outside planking job. 
 
Stay tuned and a nice weekend ..
 

Hey Brian, amazing progress with this ship of yours! She looks very authentic and should get many prizes. Just as a FYI, with my current model ship (Brig Eagle of Lake Champlain in 1814), I also bought an American flag with the 13 stars in the circular pattern. Of all the places, to get the flag in the size suggest getting (the size of an index card), I ended up buying from a company in England! Will need to see if able to find the name of the company to send to you over private messaging. I tried companies in the United States like Blue Jacket, but the biggest options they had available was 1:96 scale or else it was too modern.
 
I look forward to additional progress on this amazing model as well as whatever your next project will be on here.
 
Brian D

Hey Brian, amazing progress with this ship of yours! She looks very authentic and should get many prizes. Just as a FYI, with my current model ship (Brig Eagle of Lake Champlain in 1814), I also bought an American flag with the 13 stars in the circular pattern. Of all the places, to get the flag in the size suggest getting (the size of an index card), I ended up buying from a company in England! Will need to see if able to find the name of the company to send to you over private messaging. I tried companies in the United States like Blue Jacket, but the biggest options they had available was 1:96 scale or else it was too modern.
 
I look forward to additional progress on this amazing model as well as whatever your next project will be on here.
 
Brian D

Hey Brian, amazing progress with this ship of yours! She looks very authentic and should get many prizes. Just as a FYI, with my current model ship (Brig Eagle of Lake Champlain in 1814), I also bought an American flag with the 13 stars in the circular pattern. Of all the places, to get the flag in the size suggest getting (the size of an index card), I ended up buying from a company in England! Will need to see if able to find the name of the company to send to you over private messaging. I tried companies in the United States like Blue Jacket, but the biggest options they had available was 1:96 scale or else it was too modern.
 
I look forward to additional progress on this amazing model as well as whatever your next project will be on here.
 
Brian D

That pill container you are asking about is a travelers pill container. I see these a lot as I am working at an airport.  You have a canister for each day of the week and put the appropriate pills into each day. You can find these easily at most drug stores. 

Nice information about constructing your cannons and carriages, the final results are looking great. And I can tell a few old wire coat-hangers got recycled to good use, lol. Keep up the great building process, Glenn!
 
Brian

That pill container you are asking about is a travelers pill container. I see these a lot as I am working at an airport.  You have a canister for each day of the week and put the appropriate pills into each day. You can find these easily at most drug stores. 

Nice information about constructing your cannons and carriages, the final results are looking great. And I can tell a few old wire coat-hangers got recycled to good use, lol. Keep up the great building process, Glenn!
 
Brian

I keep thinking about how long it is taking me to do 8, knowing there are 24 more to go. I’d have to return to sender😁😂

Nice information about constructing your cannons and carriages, the final results are looking great. And I can tell a few old wire coat-hangers got recycled to good use, lol. Keep up the great building process, Glenn!
 
Brian

Cannon - It’s a Process
 
I managed to break a couple of parts preventing me from completing Chapter 3, of course Chuck has since kindly provided replacements. In the interim I elected to start production on the 32 cannon I’ll ultimately need for my war ship by building the first eight.
 
This many of anything for me requires a repeatable process, doing these eight helped work out that process. Upfront I acknowledge some of what I describe below comes from Chuck’s excellent instruction, some of it is my own, some from other builders like @Rustyj, @DelF, @James H, and @Stuntflyer, some of that I modified, some I probably absorbed from others and think its my own. That’s the wonder of this forum, many of us have built many cannon in many different ways, we all learn from each other and in doing so make it our own. I’m just out to efficiently make the many cannon needed for Winchelsea - So with that disclaimer and for your reading entertainment, here’s how I'm doing them.

Like others I’ve opted for red carriages with natural wheels and axels. All edges and backside of all parts have a lot of char to remove. It’s a slow tedious process that can only be done one part at a time. There are no shortcuts. The red paint I’m using, Winsor & Newton Crimson, won’t cover char so it all has to come off. This photo is at the end of a lot of sanding with 320 and 400 grit paper (with 8 axels still to go).

With all the char removed, first up was the combination of the carriage bed and quoin. I drilled a hole for the handle, I’m using 8mm belaying pins from Crafty Sailor, they look great and for me are the right scale. On a side note, this little bottle, learned from @DelF or more specifically his wife I recall, is a great applicator for PVA. I have a large bottle of quality white wood glue I transfer to this little bottle found on Amazon under Fine Line Applicator, standard tip.

I put my Proxxon DB250 lathe and these home-made sanding sticks to work, turning the trucks to remove the char. 32 trucks later …

I put the lathe to work again rounding the axels, a brass tube (which I later cut to a shorter length) helped with the rounding and confirming a consistent size to match the wheels. 16 axels later…

I had this little jig from Cheerful (I keep all my old jigs) I put it to work on the mill drilling the required holes in the carriage sides. I set the right location for one then rotated all the carriages through drilling the one, set it for the next hole and did all again. There are 4 holes on each carriage side. 64 holes later …

I made a new jig to hold eight carriage sides, again marking first location on a row, moving the mill back to front to drill the same hole 8 times, marked the next row, then the next. Once all three rows done, loaded the other 8 and did it again. 48 holes later …

On to the barrels. The resin barrels are excellent for the detail they show. So much better than applying the tiny King’s crest to a brass barrel as I did for Cheerful, but he sprue has to be gently removed without breaking off the cascabel, ask me how I know this. I chose the same method I’ve done in the past by next painting the barrels with Admiralty Ironworks Black. Its nice matte finish is fine on it’s own.

Instead I added Doc O’Brien’s Rusty Brown by cycling through this brush set left to right, each to its purpose from application to buff out. I don’t know why Rusty Brown produces such a nice gun metal gray on top of the Ironworks Black, but it does.

It doesn’t show up very well in this photo but here are the three stages, starting resin, painted black, weathering powder applied. 8 barrels later …


After assembly of the char-free parts, using the perfect jig provided by Chuck shown in the first photo, it’s off to the paint shop for the carriages.
 
I’m not super confident with an airbrush, specifically getting the paint from the tube to the right consistency. I seemed to have gotten it right this time using Liquitex Airbrush Medium and remembering the mantra ‘milk not milkshake.” Good that I remembered to tape the axels since I want them natural. 8 painted carriages later …

Next up, a coat of WOP to the axels and the trucks, threaded through a line and left overnight to dry. 32 wheels and 16 axels later …

Not done yet, time to do the metal work - lots of eyebolts and split rings to make from 24 gauge wire. I’m using a #41 bit to form the split rings and a # 61 bit for the eyebolts. It took me a few times to remember how I did them for Cheerful, I got the hang of it again and methodically wrapped, twisted, cut repeat.   For me the smooth surface (so not to scratch the wire) needle nose pliers and quality flush cutters are essential.  I’ve found jewelry makers supply stores have the best tools for this type of metal work. 56 eyebolts and 16 split rings later …. (I was on a roll and made more, I'll need lots more later)
 
The eyebolts take up seven holes on the carriage, the remaining eight are bolts simulated with 25lb black monofilament fishing line. Just glue, insert and snip a little proud of the carriage. 64 cut lines later …

I’m using black card cut in 2mm strips for the cap squares and following Chuck’s look with a “hinge” and the front and hook bolt on the backside. Simulated with 25lb  black fishing line (so I don’t have to paint cut wire) and 24 gauge wire for the hook. I re-imaged a jig I used for Cheerful to pre-shape the card so it will lay easily and consistently on the carriage for gluing. I found it easier to add the front hinge on the jig. 16 cap squares and 32 hinge sets later …

I finally have one completed cannon, here being inspected by mini-me, I still have seven more to mount barrels and add the cap square and hinges. Once the eight are complete I’m going back to finish Chapter 3 - knowing I still have 24 more to do, part of my reason for this post is a reference for me to look back to when I start the next set. They do look pretty cool once complete.
 
It is though, a process.
 
Thank you for stopping by, hope this was helpful or at least mildly entertaining. As always thank you for the likes and the comments.
 

This is maybe best build I ever saw, including beautiful photography , light & background, premium ropes and tratment. thank you fro treat, inspiration  and happy continuation. V. 

While you are in San Diego make some visits to the the Maritime Museum and the the Midway Carrier Museum. I used to live in San Diego. Have a great vacation with your family.

After a long time, I have finally reached the end of building the galley stove:









 

Thanks Matt and Glenn!
Thanks bdgiantman2 we are on our way there today! 

While you are in San Diego make some visits to the the Maritime Museum and the the Midway Carrier Museum. I used to live in San Diego. Have a great vacation with your family.

Yellow Alaska Cedar definitely looks great as planking.  I just was trying to follow the advice of Mr. Passaro for whatever it's worth of having as few as possible varieties of wood on my model.  I will admit that right now I am looking at three different types of wood being used on this model when the finished version finally comes out.
 
I'm not trying to pick on anyone at all in any form, but I am feeling better about my progress after reading a re-shared blog of a very experienced model builder on here talking about how took 30 years to build one of his models. Hopefully my build wouldn't be quite that long, but it will be a while with the pace I am going around working. 

Ah the one good thing about winter. More modeling time!

Yellow Alaska Cedar definitely looks great as planking.  I just was trying to follow the advice of Mr. Passaro for whatever it's worth of having as few as possible varieties of wood on my model.  I will admit that right now I am looking at three different types of wood being used on this model when the finished version finally comes out.
 
I'm not trying to pick on anyone at all in any form, but I am feeling better about my progress after reading a re-shared blog of a very experienced model builder on here talking about how took 30 years to build one of his models. Hopefully my build wouldn't be quite that long, but it will be a while with the pace I am going around working. 

Love the "helper" sitting there patiently..  The framing is coming along nicely.

Making the yards - Main yard - Grande vergue
Before starting to make the yards, I made myself a planing jig in advance, inspired by Ed Tosti's build report for the clipper "Young America" in the MSW, as shown in the drawing below. Rotating and locking clamps allow lumber of various widths and lengths to be fixed in place for machining, especially with a wood planer. 
 
To make the main yard, I prepared a drawing with dimensions based on the plan by J. Boudriot.

 
The next two pictures show how the holding device mentioned at the beginning of the report can be used in practice. 
It performs valuable services in the manufacture of yards. For example, a wooden strip with a V-shaped groove was clamped in place. A square timber inserted in this way can easily be planed into an octagonal timber. In this case for the main yard and later for the leeward spars. These timber blanks are then much easier to machine on the lathe. In addition, they are used to roughly preform the octagonal areas of the yards or studding sail booms. 

   
With the following pictures I illustrate the further processing steps in the yard production. 



       
In contrast to the main yard, the studding sail booms are much more delicate logs with diameters of 3.7 to 2.2 mm, which had to be machined. So that this succeeds also without breakage, I built for this with simple means a small steady rest. With this I can bring small ball bearings for round timber with diameters of 1 - 10 mm into position for support. In the meantime, the small tool has already proven itself very well. 

On the last picture you can see the first results.

 
To be continued ...

 
 

Yellow Alaska Cedar definitely looks great as planking.  I just was trying to follow the advice of Mr. Passaro for whatever it's worth of having as few as possible varieties of wood on my model.  I will admit that right now I am looking at three different types of wood being used on this model when the finished version finally comes out.
 
I'm not trying to pick on anyone at all in any form, but I am feeling better about my progress after reading a re-shared blog of a very experienced model builder on here talking about how took 30 years to build one of his models. Hopefully my build wouldn't be quite that long, but it will be a while with the pace I am going around working.