bdgiantman2

Great progress, Mr. Passaro. Your model of the Speedwell looks amazing thus far, and I am looking forward to seeing much more happening with her.
 
Brian D

Great progress, Mr. Passaro. Your model of the Speedwell looks amazing thus far, and I am looking forward to seeing much more happening with her.
 
Brian D

Wonderful, we learn a lot of useful things in this thread.

To finish up the bow timbers I had two more to go.  The first of those was done exactly like the previous three.  But the last one is a bit different.  The filler that closes the gap is just a little bit different.
 
Step one is the same.   Shape the angle that will fit against the cant frame.  No biggie there.  There is a laser reference line for that just like the others.  But that is the only reference line laser etched.
 
Once shaped to fit against the cant frame,  test it on the model.  It should fir pretty good.   Then you need to take a sharp pencil and draw the next reference line yourself.  Just trace the shape of the cant frame edge onto to the filler as shown.  This will be your outboard hull reference.  Use that line and bevel just as you did in step two for the previous bow timbers.
 

 
It will look like this when you bevel and clean it up with a sanding stick.
 

You dont have to bevel the inboard edge.  We will need to trace that in pencil against the cant frame too.  But that is kind of tricky at this stage.  Once you take a look inside there you will understand.  There really isnt much to bevel inboard actually.   It is best to just leave the inboard side as is until after we remove all of the jigs and fair the inboard side later.  That will be done after planking.
 
But now you can go ahead and fair the outside bow timbers.  Fair them into the cant frames nicely.  Use a long batten to check how true and smooth the run of planks will be.  You dont want any dips.   Dont be afraid to really sand it good with coarse sandpaper first and then switch to a finer grit on your last pass.
 
You will notice that the bow timbers are too high and the tops should be trimmed down to match the sheer.   That can be done after fairing outboard.  Almost done fairing outboard below.  The tops of the bow timbers have been trimmed down as well.
 

How do you know where to trim down the head timbers?  Well you could measure up from your build board using the plans.  But I decided to take some considerable time to create a template.  Its quite an extensive template actually.   Basically its an expansion drawing to scale that shows every last detail of the outboard hull fittings.   
 
This includes the run of the planks at the bow and all ports....swivel stocks...scuppers and fixed blocks and channels with deadeyes....etc.
 
The bottom of this helpful template represents the top edge of the upper wales.  This is in fact how we will transfer the correct lines for the wales later.   But you can also use it to check the positions of all ports and also trim down the bow timbers to the sheer.  Just make sure you put it on both sides of the hull and have them even.
 
This template lines up at the bow based on the cheeks.  You can see on the plans how the upper cheek sits right on top of the upper wales and then transitions onto the stem.  You want to line up the cheek on the template where it will transition onto the stem.  This is important because you want to have everything line up when we work on the hawse holes and bolsters and headrails.
 
It will make locating everything quite easy I think.  I dont believe any other kit or even monograph has such a template and expansion drawing like this.  I thought I would try something new.
 
Time to start the aft cant frames...yippie!!!
 

Here is a quick look at the template.  When flat the expansion clearly shows the gentle "S" curve at the bow for planking run. I folks have a hard time getting this right so this should be a life-saver.  In fact, with all the planks at the bow now shown with their shape and taper this leaves no guesswork at all.  When the time comes we will transfer those planking lines to the frames.  No tick strips needed.   Lining off will be much easier.
 

 
 

The Bow Timbers
 
These arent very difficult to make and build.  But yes...you do have to take your time and go through all of the steps with each bow frame.  They are laser cut with all kinds of reference lines on both sides of each frame.   There are also laser cut spacers that go between each bow timber.  They are 3/64" thick.   In fact the first piece we will add is right next to the upper apron.  It is 3/64" thick and the easiest part to add.  This is being used for one purpose only.  It is being added to make the upper apron wider before we add the actual bow timbers and spacers.  They are labelled P1 and S1....respectively for the port and starboard sides.  You do have to bevel the heel to fit tight against the cant frame.  But thats pretty simple to do with a sanding stick.  To position this piece properly on the side of the apron, Just make the forward edge flush with the shape of the upper apron.  See the arrow in the photo.
 

Below is the first actual bow timber (bollard timber) on the port side....P2
 
Lets start shaping it. 
 
Note all the reference lines.  There are more on the other side.
 
This shouldnt be scary at all for folks who havent done this.  Just carefully go through the steps one at a time.  This would be so easy if you had a disc sander etc.  But as I mentioned, I will be doing all shaping and sanding by hand.   I am just using a #11 blade and some sanding sticks and sandpaper.   Thats it.  I know that many of you
dont have a disc sander.  

Step 1...Concentrate on establishing the angle on the heel of the bow frame.   This angle is the same for every bow timber.  There is a laser etched line on one side for this purpose.  But to help see the correct bevel, I lightly sanded both sides to remove some char.    Then I drew a pencil line to better see the actual angle and what needs to be removed.  This is done on every Bow timber as step one.
 

There are countless ways to create this angle....sanding....cutting...disc sander...you name it.   But his was how I did it.  
 
I first used my #11 blade to slice most of the meat away.  I did this carefully only taking off a thin slice with each pass.  The blade actually slices through the cedar like butter.  Just get the heavy stuff off close to the reference line for now.
 

Then use a wide flat sanding stick to take it to the finish line.  Keep the stick flat and always touching the surface.  Sand slow and you wont round off the face as is typical if you quickly stroke back and forth.  Go slow and deliberate.   
 

If by chance you actually do round off that beveled face its OK...
 
You can take some medium grit sandpaper and bend it loosely.  Then once again sand slowly and deliberately.   But this time keep the folded sandpaper only in the center of the face as if you were trying to make it concave.  But in actuality you are just removing any rounded areas to get it back to a perfectly flat face.   This shouldnt be needed if you are careful with the sanding stick.   But yes a disc sander would take care of this in about 30 seconds.
 
But you can get a really tight joint doing it by hand…the old fashioned way.
 

Test the bow timber on the model....
 
How does that beveled angle sit against the cant frame?   Nice and tight?
 

Note the bevel line and how it lines up with the edge of the cant frame.   All of the bow timbers should all line up this way or at least be very close.
 

How do you know how high against the upper apron this should be placed?
 
There is a laser etched reference line on the back side that lines up with the top of the apron.  See below.  After this all of the remaining bow timbers and spacers will all be at the same height basically.  We will trim them all down to the nice shear line later after they are all placed on the model.
 

Ok that was step one.  Not so bad although I am trying to give you a ton of detail.
 
Now step two....
 
Adding the bevels (basically pre-fairing each bow timber inboard and out).  Once again my preference is to just use a sharp #11 blade.  Replace your blade the moment it gets dull.  I am just shaving from the edge to the etched reference line.  Go slow.   Only shave a little at a time.   Dont go all the way to the line yet.   Use a sanding stick for that.  But this goes pretty quickly.  What is most important is to shave with the grain.   Not against it....just like your 5 o'clock shadow. 
 
If you shave the wrong way it just wont work.   You will make a mess and break chunks off ruining the bow timber.  But if you are going in the right direction...it cuts like butter...really.
 
In fact here is a little tip.   You will have to reverse directions on each half of the bow timbers.  They are curved and the grain is different on each end.  You will know what I mean when you try this.  You will have a nice little pile of shavings.
 

Then clean it up with a sanding stick.
 
The outboard side looks like this.  Note the spacer ready to be glued onto the bow timber.  Do this before you glue it on the model.
 

And the inboard side.  All sliced with a #11 blade close to the bevel line...then cleaned up with a sanding stick.
 

Step 3.....actually thats about it.  I guess step 3 is just gluing the spacer onto the side of the bow timber.  A laser etched line is there which shows exactly where is should go.  Line up the outboard edges flush.
 
Then step 4....glue it on the model.  Dont forget to place this first one at the proper height.  Use that refernce line on the back side I mentioned earlier.
 

 
It is really not too bad at all...
 
Then just repeat this with the other bow timbers...but dont forget to use another loose spacer when you glue it in position.  See the pic below that shows the third bow timber just after gluing it.  You want the air spaces to be nice and even between these timbers.  So use another scrap piece of 3/64" thick wood along the lower end to help you with that.   Make sure you dont glue it in place.   You want to remove the spacer when you are done.
 

 
I have just two more to go.   I will do those tomorrow.  Sorry about the long post but this log is really my notes for writing the instructions later.  I dont want to forget anything.
 
 
 
 
 

Diver, are you sure? Looking at something unfamiliar to you might seem unattainable. This is much easier to do than the traditional way in which it is often done. Chuck has made this very straight forward with etched lines and laser cut shapes to start off with. He has simplified the process for those who want to build a POF and thought they never could.
 
Mike

A quick test of the bow timbers.  I simplified them as I know how difficult they can be.  
 
Increased the air spaces in width and the width slightly on each bow timber.  I did this to reduce the number of timbers.  Much like the Pegasus model in the picture posted by Greg.  Note the comparison between Speedwell and Pegasus bow timbers.  Pegasus has fewer bow timbers and 3 air spaces.  That is what I wanted to replicate on my Speedwell for simplicity sake.
 
 
Because we are planking from the wales up this will have no effect on the overall look of the model.  But it will make this tricky area a little easier.
 
There is one less timber to worry about and I combined the little filler with the outer-most timber so it was one piece.  It will be covered up anyway.  This also makes life much easier.
 
No crazy jigs for these or shortcuts really.  In my opinion that would make the whole process more difficult.  All of the crazy jigs that I have seen on those Asian kits look over-engineered. And the finished results are less than satisfactory.  It actually went very quickly just being careful and deliberate with each timber.  You can see the timbers for the port side ready to go.
 
They are laser cut with etched reference lines on both sides.  
 
I will of course take tons of pictures and do a step by step when I do the other side.
 

Thank you so much...yes its super busy right now.  But it still beats watching TV.

I am very much looking forward to how you make and grove those hawse timbers. Speedwell has been a pleasure to follow as was Winnie.

Good luck to you with this new project, Mike! I am sure that you will make a great model of the Speedwell like you did with the Winnie. I will be following you with this project. 

Good luck to you with this new project, Mike! I am sure that you will make a great model of the Speedwell like you did with the Winnie. I will be following you with this project. 

Good luck to you with this new project, Mike! I am sure that you will make a great model of the Speedwell like you did with the Winnie. I will be following you with this project. 

Good luck to you with this new project, Mike! I am sure that you will make a great model of the Speedwell like you did with the Winnie. I will be following you with this project. 

Good luck to you with this new project, Mike! I am sure that you will make a great model of the Speedwell like you did with the Winnie. I will be following you with this project. 

I am very much looking forward to how you make and grove those hawse timbers. Speedwell has been a pleasure to follow as was Winnie.

Congratulations Mike on finishing your Winchelsea.  It is a beautiful model and your workmanship is second to none.  You and Chuck have set the bar high for your craftsmanship.  It has been a pleasure following your build.

At a loss for words Mike....She is a beautiful model.  So sweet.    And it was fun getting in the trenches with you on it for so many years.
 
Chuck

Lengthy work on the cannon carriages:

I have noticed that myself and have wondered about this. Not sure more if a more modern model builder "cut some corners" by not doing the hawse timbers in the bow or if the scale admiralty models of that time period didn't have the hawse timbers but the real ship would have.  Or a third option could be that smaller ship models like that Dutch Statenjacht/Stuwart ship models wouldn't have had the hawse timbers unlike large ship-of-the-line models. Nevertheless, I am enjoying learning the more accurate construction from Mr. Passaro and other skilled modelers on this site.  

I have noticed that myself and have wondered about this. Not sure more if a more modern model builder "cut some corners" by not doing the hawse timbers in the bow or if the scale admiralty models of that time period didn't have the hawse timbers but the real ship would have.  Or a third option could be that smaller ship models like that Dutch Statenjacht/Stuwart ship models wouldn't have had the hawse timbers unlike large ship-of-the-line models. Nevertheless, I am enjoying learning the more accurate construction from Mr. Passaro and other skilled modelers on this site.  

Looking at pics of Navy Board ship models, many don't have cant frames.
Did you ever consider this option for less skilled modeler? 

@wefalck
Hello Eberhard,
thanks for the nice comment.
 
Continuation: For topsail yard - studding sail boom iron
In the meantime I also made the outer studding sail boom irons for the fore topsail yard. Like the inner irons, they were made of brass strips with a width of 1.3 mm and a thickness of 0.25 mm. For brazing with a silver brazing paste I fix the pre-prepared parts on a ceramic plate, as already shown several times.
With the following picture I show how the assembly of the inner studding sail boom irons is done. The brass wire ø 0.4 mm, which still has to be shortened, takes over the function of a safety pin.


The next picture shows the outer iron of the fore topsail yard. The end of the yardarm is square with dimensions 2.2 / 2.2 mm.


In order to be able to carry out the assembly and rigging work on the yards comfortably, I made myself this holding device.


And finally, an overview of the construction status of the fore topsail yard, with the studding sail booms, which in the meantime has each received a hole at the octagonal end. At the outer end, a notch has been added for fastening the blocks.

The next step is the studding sail boom irons for the main topsail yard, the dimensions of which are somewhat larger.
To be continued ...
 

Took a break from restocking inventory to work on the model.
 
Forward cant frames....
 
The jig is first.  BUT before you do anything, make sure the hull is positioned correctly on your build board.   Line up the forward face of the last square frame with the corresponding lines on your baseboard.  Slide it forward or aft if needed because you will be lining up the cant frame jig with your baseboard plan.
 
Take the laser cut square shown below and glue it to the underside of the last square frame cross piece. The laser etched guide on the square should help you with positioning it.
 

It will look like this. The fore cant frame jig is resting on top which will be added next.
 

Place the cant frame jig in position.   The "puzzle piece" connection was left a little loose on purpose to give you some room to adjust it.   Not a lot...its not a sloppy fit.  But there is just enough room to adjust it side to side based on what we will do next.
 

This next step is super important....
 
Use your square to check that the notches in the top of the jig match the cant frames as drawn on the baseboard.   The machine square I have actually fits right into the slots making this pretty easy.   I got these from MicroMark.   They are pretty common and if you have one this works perfectly.  There is also a laser etched line down the center of the jig to help with alignment.
 
The forward edge of each slot....should line up with the aft edge of the cant frames as drawn on the baseboard.  This is important.   Its worth mentioning it again.  The forward edge of each slot....should line up with the aft edge of the cant frames as drawn on the baseboard.  See below.  Check this on both sides of the hull obviously.  Try and get it as close as you can.   
 
Then tape the cant frame jig to the first square frame cross piece.   Remember,  there is some wiggle room so you can adjust as needed to get your slots lining up as close as possible.  But dont be upset if they are off by a hair.   Just get them as close as you can.  
 

Next up,  and you will do this for every cant frame....take the two strips laser cut and marked "1", and glue them into the forward slots.  Make sure the numbers face forward.  Slide them all the way into the slots.  This is also important.  The top of these strips should be flush with the top of the jig.
 
Note the laser etched line on the forward side.   This line references the outboard edge of each cant frame.    We are starting with the most forward pair for a few reasons.  The most important being to help firm up the cant frame jig at the correct height and "lock" it into position.   Every cant frame after this first pair will also have a corresponding numbered strip.   You will be progressing aft with one cant frame pair at a time.  Just like this.

You can see below how this jig will work.   I have placed the square against the strip.  Note how it rests against the forward edge of the strip and at the same time...The bottom of the square shows it lining up with the cant frame drawing on the baseboard.   The angles match.  We are talking about the aft edge of the cant frame.   The cant frames will all sit against the forward edge of those numbered strips.
 

Below you can see the forward pair of cant frames glued into position.  I of course sanded the char off the edges first.  But dont sand the heel of the cant frame.   Only remove the char from the inboard and outboard edges.  These frames are cut to length with tight tolerances so dont sand the heel end that gets glued to the angled wedge on the apron.
 
Note how the outside edge of the cant frame lines up with that laser etched reference line that was on the numbered strip.  Also note that the top of the cant frame is flush with the top of the numbered strip.  This first cant frame is important because it locks the jig in at the correct height as well and stiffens it all up.

One down and ten to go.   Repeat this process working aft with the remaining cant frames.   Remember to just work on one cant frame pair at a time.   Some of these forward cant frames are made in two pieces with a simulated chock like the frames.  We shall discuss this when I get that far.
 
Next up will be cant frame "2".   You can see the numbered strips sitting on top ready to go.  But now that the jig is in position its pretty easy and should go quickly.   No need to sand the bevels into the heels of each cant frame.   All you really have to do with each cant frame is sand off most of the laser char on the inboard and outboard edges and glue it into position.  The apron has all the correct angles in for each cant frame already.

 
Let me know if you have any questions.
 

Me and you both 👍  These are lovely little kits by the way I was very impressed.
Now there's an idea 😉
 
Just to give a little perspective on just how tiny these barrels are here's a couple of pictures of it in the hold.  I think it looks great!

Great work Mark, your log and photos are the best reference are indispensable.