bdgiantman2

For those of you who may be curious, you can see clearly in this picture how bad the curve is in the deadwood frames. I really thought that using the clamps was going to straighten these out, but the clamps made zero difference. When I was gluing the pieces together, I was able to place clamps on the bottom two pieces of the deadwood; but the upper two pieces, being diagonal, I wasn't able to use the clamps on. I fear that I am going to have to re-make the upper two pieces if not the entire deadwood.
 
Brian 

My project is the same scale as the other blogs of this ship, 1:48 scale.

Thanks for the reply, your Eagle build is coming along. Yeah, I agree it is easy to get distracted with those Winnie blogs, some of those models are coming out amazing.

Alrighty, my friends.
 
I finally have gotten most of the keel cut out. I seriously envy those of you reading this who have those fancy milling machines  Finally was able to get the safety key needed to operate my bandsaw, was able to get replacements through Amazon.com.  Then carefully cut the strips needed with a jury-rigged rip-fence, followed by the painstakingly slow process of cutting and sanding the groves for the hull ribs. The deadwood is the only part glued together right now. It seems to cave a bit, the deadwood that is. When holding it up vertically it shows better despite holding the deadwood with tight clamps to a piece of plywood that my plans are draped over. Those of you who I know have sharp eyes will notice some color changes in the deadwood. Found out had some gaps in the deadwood, so stuffed those gaps with glue and basswood sawdust from a Ziplock bag I have. It works though, looks a lot smoother. I still need to make the appropriate grooves into the deadwood for the half-frames in the stern, and am needing to cut the stem pieces themselves out still.
 
Thank you so much for the thumbs-up on here and for following.
 
Brian

Experienced friends, I have attached the first two planks of the Longboat model. It is looking right so far I think (keeping fingers crossed it stays this way for me🤞), but always open to input from those who have done this kit. Even though the instructions don't do this, I removed the middle of two of the frames of the boat so that I could place clamps and hold the the top plank easier which I didn't need to do for the plank nearest the keel. 
 
Brian

Hello my friends. So not a whole lot has improved with this model. 
 
As I was attempting to make the keel using Yellow Alaskan Cedar from Mr. Passaro, I quickly stumbled upon issues. The cedar was getting grain fuzz similar to that of basswood. Doing some research, I finally found one solution in buying a bitt for one of those milling machines instead of the regular Dremel bitts. That helped a little, but not much. So I reached out to Mr. Passaro by e-mail on here and he was kindly suggesting trying Boxwood. Turns out he has a vendor through the Syren site.  Joe was helpful as could be and very prompt about mailing merchandise. I am very happy with the products that I received from him.
But then came the next problem. Taking some time off from work to clear my head out, I was going to start cutting my new Boxwood when I found out that the safety key to operate my bandsaw is missing. Going to have to make another trip to the Home Depot and look for a new safety key. In the mean time, I had bought a plank of Yellow Alaskan Cedar from a wood dealer in Denver and have started for the time being the extremely slow process of cutting pieces off manually with a hand saw.  Also in the meantime, I have decided to start building my two ships boats. One is the longboat kit by Mr. Passaro supplied through Model-Expo, and the other is a kit made by Model-Expo of a little four and a quarter inch model boat I will be using as the Captain's launch.  In my readings about the history of the Brig Eagle by Dr. Crisman, the brig had one boat for sure as half of the crew often would row to shore for sleeping on shore. Books of other ships from the same time period indicate that the captain's boat was strictly for the use of the captain, so I am making my model with two boats.

After being delayed for several months with ongoing weather and work issues as well as other things, I finally surrendered to chance and started on the next step on the keel.  First, I set up my Dremel at a locked position after proper height alignment on its shaft. That's when the first problem came. One location I attempted to hollow up purely visual, which worked about half decent but not as straight as I had desired. So I then got a modeling hand saw blade and have made groves in the wood so wouldn't go so crooked again. This helped me some. And then a second issue came about. If you look closely in the enclosed photo you can see some splintering in the areas being kept raised for between the frames.  Also I have been dealing with a lot of wood fuzz similar to that from basswood but I am using the Alaska Yellow Cedar that I purchased from Chuck Passaro. I have no clue if this is supposed to be expected, even after going through more of the Winnie blogs on here. If more pictures are needed, I am happy to provide additional ones.
 
Brian Davies

Hello Dragonflyxlii, thanks for the kind words and sharing your pictures. Your model is a beauty. Haven't seen a blog by you about this build though, I would love to be following it.

Thank you for the reply to my blog. I have read at least parts of that book by Dr. Kevin Crisman, found a copy of it through my local library. Through e-mail correspondence with Dr. Crisman, he has shared with me an updated article in a later publication. I will have to visit the video link you have shared at a later time as I will soon leave for work.

So here is first progress on the build.
 
During the holiday season, Santa brought a new toy for my workshop. It's a mini table-saw with 4 in diameter blades from Model Expo. This table saw wouldn't be as good as some of the rest of you have, but with my budget right now this is the best I can afford.
 
Started to copy the individual pieces that make up the keel of Brig Eagle.  There are three section pieces not including the bow and stern timbers for the keel of this model. I quickly re-learned how helpful it is to have a good source of back light while trying to trace the individual shapes as well as making sure the paper I will be using to trace the shapes onto is large enough to fit the whole piece onto the new paper.  To attempt making things easier for myself (a lesson I learned in the mistakes from Yacht Mary), I will be intentionally making both the main keel as well as the keelson 1/16 inch thicker than mentioned on the plans provided by Gene Bodnar.  This will be the same as the notches in the keel timbers found in the plans through Bernard Frolich.
 
Also the other week I received an order I had placed through Blue Jacket for the various cannons for this ship model. Eagle had 8 long cannons of 12 lb balls and 12 carronades capable of lobbing 32 lb balls. The guns need to be cleaned up a bit and maybe hollowed out at least a little bit.  Research done states that will be needing very sharp drill bits and going at slow speeds.  At a later date will be making own carriages for the different guns out of wood. I know that Chuck provides very accurate models of the carriages on his site. Will need to purchase the blackening formula Blue Jacket provide at a later date.

So I have shelved for the time being my Yacht Mary build, there are a lot of areas I am needing to learn better and sought out new builds to gain experience.
 
***DRUM ROLL***
 
To gain the experience desired, I have decided to build the Brig Eagle from the 1814 war on Lake Champlain against the British. The history of Eagle seems pretty well known, as there are several other blogs on here building this beautiful ship. The Eagle had a short known life and historical significance, but she played a great role in defeating the British for the last time against the Americans. This model is a scratch-build, and I am planning to involve Chuck's model of the Long Boat kit as well.
 
This model project is being built at 1:48 scale.
 
I will be using Yellow Alaskan Cedar for this build. Got some wood from Chuck Passaro and additional wood from a lumber specialist locally. 
 
Many thanks to  Mr. Chuck Passaro, ChadB, Bill Edgin, Dr. Kevin Crisman, and Gene Bodnar

Sneeeeeaky! Veeeeeerrrry Sneaky! I like how this turned out though, a creative way to solve those decoration pieces. Great job on this ship model.

The galley stove turned out great, Mark.  Your model of Sphinx is looking great.

I've been playing with these links, just inserted into place not permanent at this stage. Working out the issues.🔻
Front channels in place🔻

Hi ☺️

The galley stove turned out great, Mark.  Your model of Sphinx is looking great.

The galley stove turned out great, Mark.  Your model of Sphinx is looking great.

The galley stove turned out great, Mark.  Your model of Sphinx is looking great.

Thanks for the likes and comments.  
 
Still making progress.  The bow area of the gundeck.   I did have to do some serious thinking here.  I dug out my little yard master and did some eyeball work and more thinking.  I finally decided, Captain's prerogative needed to be applied.   With the wall/door section added there just didn't seem to be enough room for the cooks to work.  So didn't use it but did add a very small bit of "brick" to cover the hole. 
 
Now to go onto more of the gundeck work.

And then there was six of them.... 30 something more to go!!
as soon as I get six completed on the port side I plan to take a gun break and start my long awaited chapter 7 and also pick up and finish my lighting project, now that I can hang the individual lanterns.

Still moving forward.🔻

Just hanging for now🔻

Channel supports🔻

I personally like the contrasting color of the deadeyes to the rest of the hull,  I don't even see the deadeyes unless looking really close to the model.  Looking great 

I personally like the contrasting color of the deadeyes to the rest of the hull,  I don't even see the deadeyes unless looking really close to the model.  Looking great 

The oar port lid has been installed.  The hinge is flattened copper wire and the knuckle is brass rod.  My metal skills are insufficient to build a functional hinge this tiny, so the lid is glued in place.  Although the plan shows two fenders, I only had room for one.  I must have made a measurement error at the beginning of the build and I refuse to start over!  The outer face of the fender is carved with a scraper and bolted to the hull.  I had to make five scraper shapes for the various fittings seen in the picture.  The steps were made in one long strip which was cut to length and the side curves were made with a U-chisel and files.  Aft of the gunport are the holes for the pins which will attach to the channel.

With the straps comlpeted for the channels first it was time for deadeyes and chainplates. The deadeyes are made in the usual way.  These are the three layer deadeyes.   I started by making all of the 5mm deadeyes first.  There are instructions for assembly and tumbling on my website already.  I will add however that I tumbled them with 400 grit sandpaper.  Dont be afraid to tumble them for a while so they get good and rounded off while removing the laser char.   I do this on the highest speed on my hand drill.
 
Then I used the acrylic strops to strop them all after I dyed them brown.   See below.  The strops can be flexed with your fingers around the deadeyes.  You need to get a knack for it but once you do its easy.  Should you break any strops its no big deal, there are plenty of extras on the sheet.  Yes I did sand the sheet of strops as described earlier and weathered them before placing them on the deadeyes.  I show a natural deadeye so you can see both.  My wife says I need to try new things....so this is the first time I have ever dyed my deadeyes and gone brown.  I like it but yes it was a difficult choice to make.
 

 
Once stropped, I placed all the 5mm deadeyes along the channels.  Just slide them into the slots where they go.  There are 5mm deadeyes and 6mm deadeyes.  I am starting with the 5mm first.  You can see them all along the channel waiting for the chainplates.

The chainplates are all different sizes depending on which deadeyes they are used on.   I am methodically completing the chainplates based on size.  The acrylic chainplates are also cut on individual little sheets by size to make life easier as well.
 
All of the chainplates for the deadeyes on the stools will be done first.  They are the smallest links.  Take a look at the photo below which shows the two sheets with the smaller parts for the stool chainplates.  There is a sheet with the center links and one of the lower link that terminates with an eye on the bottom.  This is where you will nail it to the hull with little brass pins.  Pins Not included.  You can buy them easy enough by the hundred.
 

There are two lengths of the center link.  The shortest are for the mizzen stool.   But the bottom links are all the same size for all of the stools.
Start by sanding and weathering the sheets on both sides again.....this will be done for all of them.  Then take the center links and cut one side with a sharp blade as shown.  This is how you will get it onto the lower link and onto the deadeye strop.  I could have laser cut these but then the kerf of the cut would prevent it from closing entirely.  By cutting one side with a blade like this they will close up and you will never ever see the seam.
 
Then take the lower link and bend the bottom slightly.  NOT a huge amount.  Its about a 45 degree bend.  Use a needle nose plier like I showed earlier for the straps.   Heat the tip with a candle flame and use it to help bend the bottom eye as shown.  If you try and do this cold you may break the lower link.  If you use heat you wont break any.  And dont worry there are plenty of extras.
 
Then combine the center and lower links so we can add them to the deadeyes on the stools.  The seam of the center link is positioned so its the back side of the link when placed on the model.   
 

In the photo above you can see all of the chainplates completed for the stools.    But you can also see that I completed them for the mizzen channel as well.   The plates for the mizzen channel and the the other channels where 5mm deadeyes are being used are slightly longer than those used on the stools.   But the process is exactly the same.  Here is a photo of the laser cut chainplates for the deadeyes on the channels.  So you know what to look for.  You can see how the seam on the split center link is nearly invisible after slipping it onto the lower link.

If you look at the photo again showing the chainplates completed on the hull for these 5mm deadeyes you will notice that only the ones on the mizzen channel are completed and nailed with little brass pins.   The two on the main channel and the one on the fore channel are just dangling.  I have not nailed them in place permanently yet.  I am waiting until after I make the 6mm deadeyes and all of them are hanging on the main and fore channels.  I like to wait so I can better establish the correct angles for the chainplates.  You can take these directly from the plans.
 
One last note....many of you may feel that these links are too delicate.  You might think that they would never hold if you decided to rig the model.  That is the farthest thing from the truth.  You would not believe how strong they are.   If you are worried about the seam in the center link...you should be.  But alas, should you really want to "solder" the seam closed you absolutely could.  But you must use a special glue for acrylic.  Its the same stuff they use when gluing the display cases together with acrylic sheets.  Incredibly strong stuff and thin like water.   Just take a drop on a toothpick and simply touch the seam if you can see it on the center link.  And thats it.  It will wick into the seam and you are done.  Dont touch it.   It will take some time but it literally melts a small amount of the plastic and once it sets it is once again an unbroken link.  It will be extra strong now.   But not too much of the glue.   
 
Because we are not rigging the model anyway that is just not needed.   But go ahead and give the deadeyes a good tug on the channels and you will see how sturdy and solid they remain in the slots with little movement.  Its a beautiful thing.
 
Next up are the 6mm deadeyes....this went very quickly without having to bend the wire to make these....it took just a couple of hours to do the 5mm deadeyes once they were dyed.
 
So hopefully the next update will be soon and these will all be done.