bdgiantman2

And now with the top rail on the top rail.
 
I left the ends of the top rail "loose" so when the time comes I can get them up to the transom and side - it may take a little "surgery" on the top to get it "right" but I think I have enough "play" to accommodate.
 

My gosh that is beautiful work. We’ll done!

Hi All
 
I've been working on the mast step and what a lovely little piece this is to make.  It's like making a miniature piece of furniture due to its many angles and precise joints.  I guess it was made that way due to the amount of stresses it must have received from the mast.
 
The step is made of two thickness materials.  The outer pieces are 6mm and the inner 5mm.

After sanding and milling the parts look like this

Here's the profile of the inner pieces which I cut to an angle of 7 degrees.  It then has a taper at the bottom so that it sits correctly on the keelson.

All assembled with the relevant nails.  I used 0.28mm carbon for the first time for the very small nails and I think they look alright.





Finally fitted into the hull



The next job is to make the stern sleepers - Cheers Mark

It almost seems to me to some kind of small external gear to the compass box.  Was going to guess a part of the tiller operation but then I realized that La Creole would have still have rope tiller around the wheel and into the hull.  But as the picture of the contemporary model shows, maybe it is a broken off arm for like the ship's bell.

Well, I've finished and placed the remaining eight 6 pounders on the quarter deck as well as the last eight 12 pounders on the gun deck. That completes chapter 10. Before I start chapter 11. I still have to go back and put on the gunport lids. I've been holding off on placing them until the last minute to lessen the chance of accidentally knocking them off. I can't wait any longer now.  

 

It almost seems to me to some kind of small external gear to the compass box.  Was going to guess a part of the tiller operation but then I realized that La Creole would have still have rope tiller around the wheel and into the hull.  But as the picture of the contemporary model shows, maybe it is a broken off arm for like the ship's bell.

It almost seems to me to some kind of small external gear to the compass box.  Was going to guess a part of the tiller operation but then I realized that La Creole would have still have rope tiller around the wheel and into the hull.  But as the picture of the contemporary model shows, maybe it is a broken off arm for like the ship's bell.

It almost seems to me to some kind of small external gear to the compass box.  Was going to guess a part of the tiller operation but then I realized that La Creole would have still have rope tiller around the wheel and into the hull.  But as the picture of the contemporary model shows, maybe it is a broken off arm for like the ship's bell.

Evening, 
Hope all is well. Safe and happy holidays for all was my Christmas wish. 
Sitting down after work, the movie Gladiator is on and I'm eating crab Rangoon.
Time for a way overdue update!
I can't believe it been almost 4 months since I last updated.
The holidays are behind us, the dog days of winter are here. Should mean more quiet weekends in the shop. 
I was building though over the holidays.
 
The Royal, Topgallant and Topsail yards are all set in place. 
The course yards are next. 
The truss and sling are preplaced, as much as possible, on the yard and mast before setting into its final placement. 

Couple of dirty words later, some CA glue and it "fell" into place. 
It may look messy, but it sorts out nicely when attached to the mast. 

Both Main and Fore masts and yards are done. 

It may look a bit wonky, but the masts aren't stepped in yet and they wobble a bit. 
When I do attach them, I may use some simple white glue to give them a little grip.
But that's a few steps away. 

She's dripping with rope.
All rope is from Syren. I had some older Syren rope to use up and have now started to incorporate some of the newer Ultra rope. 
Beautiful stuff. 
Wish I could have used it from the beginning, but I had some older stock that I wanted to use first.
Waste not, want not. 

 
Be good, 
 
Tom E 
 

Excellent Progress Chuck, the upright framing technique you have developed for Speedwell is really superb - I look forward to see how you do the cant frames and the Bollard Timbers!
 

My thought is that even though this model of the Speedwell is being built at a larger scale than Winnie, because the Winnie was nearly twice the size of Speedwell in real life (as well as quarter scale if the two models were to be side by side), I could understand Winnie's figurehead being bigger anyways. Bigger ship will have a bigger figurehead. Those pieces you have made look spectacular just to let you know.

My thought is that even though this model of the Speedwell is being built at a larger scale than Winnie, because the Winnie was nearly twice the size of Speedwell in real life (as well as quarter scale if the two models were to be side by side), I could understand Winnie's figurehead being bigger anyways. Bigger ship will have a bigger figurehead. Those pieces you have made look spectacular just to let you know.

My thought is that even though this model of the Speedwell is being built at a larger scale than Winnie, because the Winnie was nearly twice the size of Speedwell in real life (as well as quarter scale if the two models were to be side by side), I could understand Winnie's figurehead being bigger anyways. Bigger ship will have a bigger figurehead. Those pieces you have made look spectacular just to let you know.

Speedwell is coming along beautifully. Great job on the construction process, Mr. Passaro, I am looking forward to learning lots from you with this build.

" , . . . if I can" says the man who has proved that he can do anything with such great skill and artistry to humble one and all.  I really enjoy your work, it is a wonder to behold.

Speedwell is coming along beautifully. Great job on the construction process, Mr. Passaro, I am looking forward to learning lots from you with this build.

Speedwell is coming along beautifully. Great job on the construction process, Mr. Passaro, I am looking forward to learning lots from you with this build.

Work continues on the square frames.  I thought I would post an update.  I worked my way aft and have all of those completed.  I am about two thirds completed with the square frames.  Its all been uneventful.   But here are a few pictures and some notes for folks who will be building her in the future.  It is so nice to be able to remove the model with this "jigged concept".   The cross bars that space the frames properly create a fantastic base so you can flip the hull over and do some progressive fairing.   I designed it so the stem and stern post will be in the clear when its flipped.  Its nice and sturdy to fair the hull.
 

The build board I was using cupped terribly so I had to make a new one.  It is important to have a perfectly flat build board.  This is a pressboard shelf that has white laminate on it.  It was perfectly flat and sturdy.  We shall see.
 
I also decided when I made the new build board to swap the aft support for a taller one.  This is the support that holds the stempost straight up and vertical and centered.  There was nothing wrong with the shorter one but I had a thought to make raising the frames even easier.   I glued a string to the top of the taller stern post support.   Then I ran it down to the center of the stem post and secured it in the center with some tape.   This will be a great reference for finding the center down the length of the hull.   
 
I laser etched an arrow down the center of the top jig cross pieces....it always faces forward.  But because its in the center, you can use the string to help you position each frame properly.   They must be centered port to starboard....this makes it very easy to do when you raise each square frame on the keel.
 

One thing I wanted to point out are the small wedges or "cradle parts"  under the first square frame in the photo above.   Once I had about six frames all done,  these laser cut pieces were placed under the frame on both sides for extra support.  They are laser cut to be a perfect fit under the center frames.    They will be included in the kit as well.
 
In addition,   you might notice that those cross pieces for each shorter frame are no longer needed once you have the sweep port and gun port parts glued on top of them.   The frames are grouped together and glued pretty solid.  You can see them in the earlier photo.
 

So they can be removed once you have those sweep port and gun port pieces glued in.
 
This will give you access to the inboard frames....well somewhat.   But I did do some progressive fairing of these frames inboard and out.   Outboard was easy enough.   Inboard is always a challenge.   But you can see that I have at least got the heavy stuff off inboard.   I use various chisels and my #11 blade to slice off the heavy stuff.   A rough fairing....then switch to some rifler files.   Then I switch to sandpaper.   It is best to get a start on this because it will be a real chore if you dont at least get the heavy stuff off.  I do this after every 5 or 6 square frames are raised.
 
Out board was easier but the same tools were used.
 

You can really start to see her lines start forming and the nice elegant shape into the stern....remember that the hull will be planked on both sides from the wales up to the shear.  Care is taken to line up the sweep ports and gun port sills.   I use a height guage or my square to transfer the heights from the framing plan to the model.
 
Here is a somewhat close up photo of the fairing into the rising wood.  These are last several square frames before the cant frames are started.   You can see how the rising wood was faired nicely into the run of the square frames.   This will make more sense to you if you are building it...LOL.
 

Anyway...that is the progress to date and I will now start on the forward section of square frames in the exact same manner.   It is a real pleasure to build upright and without all of that boxed scaffolding I see on other kits.  

Just taking a second to wish all my friends here on Model Ship World a very Merry Christmas and a safe and Happy New Year!!
 
-Brian

Nice information about constructing your cannons and carriages, the final results are looking great. And I can tell a few old wire coat-hangers got recycled to good use, lol. Keep up the great building process, Glenn!
 
Brian

As a former tech writer, I can see that this may very well have been the case.  Tech (even ship tech) progresses by leaps and bounds and like other forms of engineering the paper work is always playing catch-up.

Started building the stove.
 

You are gifted Rusty! Your work always amazes me! Your photos along with others on this site, not only are of an instrcuctional nature to me they are truly inspirational.
 
Joe

Hey Rusty, want to join me in building a model of the Brig Eagle from 1814? I can e-mail you some designs that were sent to me although I have made some modifications after doing my own research about her.

I'm making slow progress on the head rails. There is a lot more going on here than I thought.
 
I struggled initially to keep things in place with rubber cement in order to view the relationship between the head timbers. Chuck suggested that I could set the center head timber vertical and then work the other two head timbers in such a way that it would look okay to my eye. With that in mind I did just that. After setting the middle timber I could see that the front one could lean slightly forward. I removed the fore end of the template which lies in front of the notch. A thin strip was placed between the back of the head timber and the template to angle the timber forward while at the same time keeping it parallel to the center timber.

The aft head timber was angled slightly rearward. I can now use this as a guide for the other side. Btw; notice the position of the main rail in relationship the timberhead on the forecastle just behind it. This worked out okay on my Winnie, though that might be different on your ship.

Mike