bdgiantman2

.045 if you prefer a slimmer look and .055 for a more Robust look.  The store will open on Jan 1st.
 
this is a carriage with .055 tan rope.
 


Thanks for all of the likes 👍
 
"Dogs legs" - Wow these are tricky things to make.  I've been following Adrian Sorolla's excellent guide and have tried his suggestion on how to form them. He uses a slightly wider piece of wood than the actual counter timbers and basically shapes it slightly diagonally to obtain the dogs legs.
 
Now I've tried this approach and discovered that although it seems quite simple it has two issues that I think can change the shape of the stern slightly.  It makes it very difficult to come off of the wing transom vertically as two angles in different planes are required even if coming off straight.  More worrying is the way it changes the shape underneath the counter timbers which I believe is called the stern vault.
 
I've made two pieces this way and have found them to be completely unacceptable so I have decided to try a different approach.  I have looked at this part square on which requires three timbers being glued together to make a very wide piece to work with.
 
I then transposed the drawings as best I could to get the correct shape which I then cut.  The result is actually quite close to what I want.  I am now coming off of the transom vertically and the stern vault is keeping its square shape.
 
I have attached a few pictures of my experiment below but I would like to know what others think?  Is this a good way of making this part or am I way off base here?  The part that is in the pictures is very rough just to try and help me see a way forward with these parts and it is not going on the ship.
 
Any comments or advice would be very welcome and I hope you all have a great Xmas.

Pete, your words fill me with pride, but I must give you a disappointment: perfection, if there is one, is only a dream to be achieved, perhaps in another life! All I can say is that I'm doing my best to build a model that lives up to David and Greg's work ... 🙂
 
a few more steps forward:

 

 

 

 

 

This, of course, the reason we build navy board style. if you planked below the wales you'd be trunneling until next Christmas.
 
Amazing progress this year Giampiero. Happy Holidays and we look forward to next years progress!

Hi Giampiero - Mate you are a “Machine”. First the beautiful “L'Amarante” at 1:30 then you follow it up with the superb “La Venus at 1:96 and to just to make it a bit more interesting you launch her in 12 months no less.
And without taking a breath here we are already on page 3 of your HMS Pegasus build log, 7588 nails later (you haven't got any of Santas Elves working off-season in your workshop have you? ). Mate that’s what gets you the title of a “Machine” down my way 🙂 – all absolutely beautiful work that I admire each time I read a post. -  
No pressure but we are expecting perfection this time 😉 Stay safe Cheers Pete

The Winnie looks great and I'm all in on Speedwell! Merry Christmas to you and everyone else!

Do you have any specific ships in mind, like a 1:48 scale Niagara or a Schooner like Pilgrim Pride? The Constitution is popular but she is very complex even in smaller scales. There is the Confederacy model that seems to be doing well, I hear that one is also complex. Or would you go for something more simple like a Lobster Smack model that has more details? Whatever decision is made, I look forward to reading more about this new endeavor.

Hi, and thanks to all🙂
 
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all🎅

I wish you all a wonderful Christmas and many happy moments surrounded by your loved ones!

 

Johann,
 
I’m not sure what I am more impressed by, your ship building skills or your photography skills. Building a first rate model like this is one thing, but to do that and take such beautiful pictures as you go along. This just takes it to a whole other level. I truly enjoy following your work. 
 
-Brian

Merry Christmas to all of you…and yes it is full steam ahead on Speedwell in 1:48
 
Drafting in progress…an hour or two each night while my wife watches her shows.  This is in no way finished but enough to show you what I am shooting for.
 

That looks good To my eye Frank. Your lowest strake should line up where it needs to be. 
Remember there are two strips of moulding that go on the lower counter and transition into the upper piece, I just accounted for those when placing the print in place.

Hey Chuck and all the other builders of this model, all of you are doing an amazing job - I have enjoyed following this forum.
 
I don't know if I am missing something in looking at the pictures and reading the posts.  If I remember correctly, the wale lines of the ship stuck out farthest (thickest part of the entire hull). I can't tell from the many pictures looked at on this forum, it honestly looks like all planks are the same thickness and some painted or stained black. 
 
Brian

Merry Christmas to you as well, even though I just follow in admiration of what you are doing. Looking at other models of British warships around the same era, I have noticed many have that railing over the q-galleries painted white, and the  hull plating around the railing that same color as the stripe passing through the gun ports. Will you be doing that on your model?
 
Brian

Absolutely incredible work planking the lower hull of your Winnie model, Mr. Passaro. Now after this overload of information, I want to make sure I am understanding correctly as I am very new to your style of building and markings.  So you want us to take a strip of sticky paper, and make markings on this piece of paper with the beams to plank the hull (you are calling these belts?). Then we are to put this piece of paper onto each rib of any model and make additional tick marks on the actual ribs and after get all the markings done then can use either tape or planks to make sure everything is all properly made? And then after making sure everything lines up properly can start gluing on the hull planks onto the model.
 
Brian

Stair railing during construction on the forecastle.
 
What is the worst way to build the stairways? Glue the parts as they are done. Parts will be glued faster on the model but it will be harder to build other parts on the model itself. At the opposite, it is easier to build as much as possible without gluing. This way, a part can be remove as needed to be shape.
 
Often, it will be easier to shape a part on the vise, simply because the vise will easily hold the part, something that the fingers cannot do very well, and the hands will be free to hold the tool to shape the part: 
 
at the good working angle and at the good height. Not in all the situations, but often a part of the fabrication is much easier done if the tool meets the part at the good angle and also at the good height where it is easier to perform a movement.
 
2 things are needed to achieve this: an electric height adjusting table. This is 1 of 2 important tools that everybody should have when possible. The other one is a vise. Choosing a vise looks like to be very easy to do.. This subject comes back occasionally in the tool section. The newcomer will usually buy a vise at a very low price.
As in the learning of the model ship building, understanding what is a good tool often needs experimentation. When I was a beginner, I bought a hobby vise. With the wearing, the vise became harder and harder to squeeze tight the jaws. Also the angle adjustment had more and more trouble to hold the working position. It was not long that this tool became unusable.
 
The second category of vise would be in the metal machining category.  There is a company who made a good little one and this is Unimat. The problem with the milling vise, is that it is difficult to find a quality vise in the small sizes
 
 
Finally, a third category of vise comes from the jewelry tool industry. The range is quite large. Unfortunately, there is a bad side, the price. In this category, the price can be as low as$20 for something simple and close to $1000 for an elaborate one.
 
One of the main problem of the vise is to hold a part parallel to the table. The part has a tendency to be pushed out vertically, out of the vise. This is why a machinist will give the part a light hammer blow to seat well the part on the vise. This is also why the jaws need to have a way to stay well seated on the vise base.
 
There are a lot of vises on the market but very few can really be called a good vise!
 
 

I glued the parts and there are still a few parts to be done.






 

Chapter 4 work has begun.
The 6 false deck parts have been installed, then the filler pieces for the hawse holes were put in.
 

I have been working two jobs lately and so stretched very thin on time to be able to do modeling among my many other adult duties. Thankfully I have been able to do small amounts in very limited progress but it all adds up sooner or later. I have finally indeed gotten my deadwood timbers straightened -  had to soak in water and then place under weights on a flat surface until dried. Now it is attached to the rest of the keel. I still have the stem pieces to cut out as well as finishing the sternposts. Today I was able to get some cutting done. I made the deck transom piece which will be sitting on top of the sternpost, two of the stern frame pieces, as well as the two frame pieces for one of the carronades. I will in no way be able to match the modeling details of some people on here, especially Archjofo, but this will be an interesting undertaking.

Thank you all!!
The helm port and the lower counter:

 

 

 

 

 

Hi 🙂

I have been working two jobs lately and so stretched very thin on time to be able to do modeling among my many other adult duties. Thankfully I have been able to do small amounts in very limited progress but it all adds up sooner or later. I have finally indeed gotten my deadwood timbers straightened -  had to soak in water and then place under weights on a flat surface until dried. Now it is attached to the rest of the keel. I still have the stem pieces to cut out as well as finishing the sternposts. Today I was able to get some cutting done. I made the deck transom piece which will be sitting on top of the sternpost, two of the stern frame pieces, as well as the two frame pieces for one of the carronades. I will in no way be able to match the modeling details of some people on here, especially Archjofo, but this will be an interesting undertaking.

The truth of the matter,  honestly,  is that after I have made my own scale pieces and seeing how small they really are, it highlights all the more just how great a feat it was making all those tiny metal parts and to do so with such accuracy is completely amazing 

Thank you, Mark. I appreciate, buddy. I am learning a lot from this forum, you all are a library on here.