bdgiantman2

Little steps.....:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A little progress from the ol' shipyard. Work on Mary has been slow, but when I get the chance I have fun with her. A whole section of ribs has finally come together. One picture you can see the ribs by themselves and the second picture on the keel frame and about where they would be according to a side-view of the ship. Enjoy.
 
Brian

Hello Pat. Thanks for the message.
 
Yes, the Dremel Router is very handy, although I should get larger heads for it. Dremel also makes a scroll-saw and a mini-circular saw, I only have the scroll-saw.  The Router table and the motor kit weren't that expensive, less than $100 at Home Depot. I honestly have no idea if they have stores up in Canada or if would be extra to ship there. Good luck to you with your model building.
 
Brian

A little progress from the ol' shipyard. Work on Mary has been slow, but when I get the chance I have fun with her. A whole section of ribs has finally come together. One picture you can see the ribs by themselves and the second picture on the keel frame and about where they would be according to a side-view of the ship. Enjoy.
 
Brian

Hello Pat. Thanks for the message.
 
Yes, the Dremel Router is very handy, although I should get larger heads for it. Dremel also makes a scroll-saw and a mini-circular saw, I only have the scroll-saw.  The Router table and the motor kit weren't that expensive, less than $100 at Home Depot. I honestly have no idea if they have stores up in Canada or if would be extra to ship there. Good luck to you with your model building.
 
Brian

Hello Pat. Thanks for the message.
 
Yes, the Dremel Router is very handy, although I should get larger heads for it. Dremel also makes a scroll-saw and a mini-circular saw, I only have the scroll-saw.  The Router table and the motor kit weren't that expensive, less than $100 at Home Depot. I honestly have no idea if they have stores up in Canada or if would be extra to ship there. Good luck to you with your model building.
 
Brian

The shipyard got some new tools to work with and play with. A few pieces and extra attachments are wanted, but should make for some interesting new experiences.

Hello,
 
many thanks for the nice comments and the LIKES.
I still make and assemble the chain plates.

Here I will briefly demonstrate the assembly of the chain plates.
The correct length is determined as follows.

Hello friends.
Main frames.
Karl
 
 
 
Part 3

I received only one of the two figures I ordered today. I also wanted a sitting figure which I guess is out of stock. Communicating with the company now for options. Anyway here is the standing figure which will need a little scruffing up to make a fisherman but it now gives the boat a sense of scale. He is painted good colors to go with the boat but needs a salty hat.
 

 
I also finally connected with the actual boat builder who built the boat in 1967. We had a great conversation about the boat and it's details and he really enjoyed it. He is also a wealth of information on the local history and boat building. He related that be built 12 abalone fishing boats and that this was one of the last ones built. I have arranged that he and the president of the maritime museum meet and have him relate the oral history for the museum before all the information is lost. He moved here in 1948 and his father and he built fishing boats. No plans were ever used started only with length, width and height and purpose of the boat. They used 2 layers of 1/4" marine grade plywood glued together with staggered joints that were glued and nailed with copper nails peened like rivets to secure the joints. The hull was laid up upside down and covered with Fiberglas then turned over and inner hull built up. No two boats were ever the same but a few were similar in design. 
 
I think we both had a great time talking about the boat and boat building in general. It also turns out his sister married a guy named Dick Foran from Oregon which is where they live. My last name is Foran, what are the odds? He also lives only three streets away from me in the same housing track only down the hill from me.
 
Here is a picture of him with the model.
 

 
 

I downloaded images of gauges and in Photoshop re-sized them to 600 DPI and then reduced to the sizes needed. I then printed them out on Photo paper the cut a group of gauges and skived the paper in half to have thinner material to work with once the wet coats of Matte Finish dryed. I then cut and fitted each gauge image to a bezel. I then added white paint very carefully to the bezel and used the wet paint as an adhesive to hold the gauge image in place. The image was pressed into the paint once placed with tweezers using a damp Q-tip and pressing straight down making sure all edges were flat and in place.
 

 

 
Here is a close up.
 

 
Once the gauges were set I added 5 minute epoxy to form lenses as I did with the compass. Just a little twinkle for the eyes.
 

 
 
 
John, here are the fire extinguisher labels for you. With a magnifying glass you can read the instructions. The artwork was made as described above.
 

 

 
I received 4 beautiful abalone shells for the base so I will order some decal material to make the names for the bow and work on the base until it arrives. Soon I will be splitting my time between building and book writing. 

Your model looks incredibly realistic! Great job in building your long-boat. 
 
Brian

I finally decided to saw out the letters for the name after being unable to locate a suitable alternative for both "DIRTY DOZEN" and home port "CAYUCOS". First I printed a paper pattern via the plans and spray glued it to .012" brass sheet. Following is a long sequence of cutting them out. This is where a bench pin, magnification and thinking ahead to cut the letters out. I used a 0000 size saw blade and drilled holes when needed.
 

 
This shows the hardest letter to cut out and using the parent material and drilled hole to your advantage to be able to hold and rotate while sawing.
 

 

 
Once the letters are cut out each must have all the edges cleaned up with a file.
 

 
Once the paper is removed the front face and edges need to be cleaned up with the files again.
 

 
Here they are primed and painted ready to apply to the transom.
 

 
I used 1/4" tape lightly tacked to the plans and added tick marks on the tape for each letter. I then applied the marked up tape correctly located on the transom at the proper dimension down and centered left to right.
 

 
Here the home port letters were cut from .005" aluminum that was spray glued to 1/64" plywood for support while sawing out. These letters are 1/4" high.
 

 
Here is the finished names in place. They came out much better than I was anticipating.
 

 
I hope this helps others when they get into a situation like I did not being able to find letters with a little thickness. The bow names and fire extinguishers will be done with decals once I get the paper.
 
Next to do the instrument gauge faces.
 
 
 
 
 

Your model looks incredibly realistic! Great job in building your long-boat. 
 
Brian

Finally finished the gunwales and wash-boards.



 
Once the gunwales and wash-boards were done, I relieved that I forgot all about the transom kness. Cutting them in - in place took a little patience and a slice of pizza.

Great job making those curved stairs going to the swim platform in the stern. Shadow is looking fantastic!

I added the mast using 1/8" aluminum tube that was polished up. I also turned a base that the mast indexed into and the "U" clamps to hold it in place. The cleat was then added to it with a rope hanging on the cleat that was seen in a screen capture from the movie.
 

 

 
Next I wrapped the ladder stanchion with rope which was seized at the top with a clove hitch and the excess end used for lashing and seizing to the cleat. I think the rope was used as sound deadening to avoid steel banging on steel.
 

 
These are two access panel, one each on either end of the engine compartment. The use unknown to me, but may have allowed an arm in with a tool to work on the engine.
 

 
Also here is a flange that was plugged.
 

 
Up front on the fore deck is this pipe fitting with plugs in place. 
 

 
Here is a bow view where you can see the details.
 

 
Next to address the transom letters for the name that I have to saw out of sheet brass.

Great looking model, Toni, she is looking sharper and more realistic. The stern quarters looks absolutely fantastic. May I ask what you are using for your windows on your model?
 
Brian

Having seen your presentation during the NRG meeting in San Diego, I know you will do a modeling of the engine. This build is getting exciting and has been fun to follow. Keep up the great work, Ken.
 
Brian

Great job making those curved stairs going to the swim platform in the stern. Shadow is looking fantastic!

Thansk Mike K. , mtaylor, albert, Oligator, Jeronimo, WackoWolf!   
It is very nice for me. Thank you that you appreciate my work.
 
Hi Mike,  ​In my scale (1:27) everything is easier and any mistake could easy fix. So far everything is pretty OK with plan, but sometimes I found small inaccuracies.This is my first model built this technique. I'm still learining. 

Hi friends.
 
Construction of the new model " CHEBECE 1750 "
 
Karl
 
 
Part 1

Great job making those curved stairs going to the swim platform in the stern. Shadow is looking fantastic!

Hi everyone and thanks for all of your comments and Likes.  Much appreciated.
 
Just a quick update.  I've added the radars and some more details to Shadow's mast.  In addition, I've also added the tall mast which is situated on Shadow's foscle.  Lastly, I've been doing some more painting and puttying on her superstructure and rear diving platform.
 
Lots more work to go, though.
 
I hope you enjoy the photos, folks.
 
Have a great week!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Hello friends.
Manufacture and construction of the first frames of a total of eighty-five.
Thickness 2x3 mm
Karl
 
 
Part 2