KeithAug
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Nils Nice detail of the stoves internal brickwork.- 692 replies
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- eagle of algier
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Thank you John & John. Still some way to go before it is finished and a few significant items to make. I think I need to write a list and systematically work through it. My wife advises that all lists should start with jobs already done. Apparently that way you can immediately cross them out, feel good and celebrate with a cup of tea. Michael, welcome back and thank you. Have you been on vacation? You are so right. I have to say that I have sadly neglected my epoxy filler skills of late. A white painted hull would certainly give me plenty of opportunity to wack on the epoxy and get out the 60 grit paper.
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Jon. Not sure of the authenticity of this way of doing it - but it gave the look I was after:- Then taking one of the tails knot it round the 4 threads between the ring and the sail edge - And again to lock it. Then the same with the other tail from the opposite side. Then a dab of CA glue.
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I have partially completed hoisting the mainsail. It was quite tricky and needed more than 2 hands. After struggling for a while I gave in an invited my wife to help. There followed a tense period of instruction but fortunately no divorce. I find that I need to get the sails up with the halyards quite loose, and then progressively tighten them as I complete the sail hoop attachment. The photographs are taken at the stage of the 2nd hoop attachment with the sail still without any real tension. Fortunately I remembered to install the deckhouse, it does not go in with the boom installed. Anyway here are the photos:-
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Bedford, thank you for looking in and for the information. I will find a use for it somewhere but unfortunately it does not quite resolve my lack of understanding. I probably should have explained the issue better - here goes. The picture below shows the topsail rigging arrangement. Tacking the sail without taking it down would involve passing the foot through the triangle made by the fore topmast, the spring stay (top) and the mainstay (diagonal). As most of the sail sits below the mainstay the action of the wind would be to hold the sail against the mainstay and the triatic, rather than blowing it through the upper triangle. I have a number of pictures of the yacht rigged with just a small triangular sail (see photo) which sits in the space between the mainstay, triatic and the main topmast. I think they must do this to avoid the complexity of tacking the larger fore topsail. To complete the picture the photo below is Altair rigged as I am building her. (edit - except for the jibs / foresail which are as the previous picture.)
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Seeming, Sewing and Stopping:- I moved on to the mainsail, a virtual repeat of the foresail. That said I had awful trouble getting the cloth reasonably flat. It was a new piece of cloth that, on application of the PVA wash, bagged and bellied in a most unusual fashion. Whether the fault lay with me or the cloth I do not know. In the end I had it pinned to preparation frame at multiple points while it dried. It seemed to work but time will tell. I won't go into the long process of building the sail and attaching it to the boom and gaff but here are a few photos. I was admiring my work while it lay on the lounge floor when a critic turned up to assess my performance. She was obviously unimpressed. I completed all the mainsail related blocks - a full days work and started to rig the mast ready to take the sail. Tomorrow I hope to get the sail up so by tomorrow evening I should have something more interesting to show.
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ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
KeithAug replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Pawel, nice to see you back on the build. -
Nils, nice rudder work. I’m constantly surprised how small the rudders are on some sailing ships.
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Jon An interesting parallel furrow we plough. I spent today rigging the main boom on Altair. Not quite as complicated as Blue Nose. How about a cocktail stick rather than a tooth pick.
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Hmmmm! Glad I decided to have my masts fixed. This all looks very interesting and complicated. Good luck Jon.
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Jon, I just spent a pleasurable hour catching up with you build. Your rigging is looking very professional.
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Mike, Thank you. Hello Dan, it feels like a big learning curve for me. I have never sailed or rigged a gaff rigged vessel before so I seem to be taking a lot of time checking and rechecking what I am doing. I hope most of it right but I guess some of it comes from my imagination. A brief (mostly pictoral update) follows:- I got round to tidying up the rats nest of tails and she is now all "Shipshape and Bristol fashion". I then spent several hours making the template for the rather large mainsail. I have marked on all the seams, batten pockets, reinforcing, buntlines, slider, mast hoop and gaff lacing positions, much as I did with the foresail. I offered the template up to the mast a couple of times and trimmed it to get it to what seemed to be right. I feel more confident with the sizing than I did with the foresail, however as the say "Confidence often comes before a fall" - time will tell!
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What is the trade name / type of resin and silicone you are using Nils. I have never tried resin casting but would like to try it some time. The planking looks very neat.
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Per, Kees, John, Richard. Thank you for looking in and commenting. Richard, I see you too have sleep problems. Internet at 4.30am !!!!!!
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Thank you Nils. And so on to the flying jib. I had to rig the stay first. The stay starts on the deck with a turnbuckle which lays alongside the bowsprit. It then passes through a hole in the bow (fortunatlely spotted and bored some time ago). Then it passes round a sheave before heading off on a long journey to the head of the fore topmast. I am having to be careful with tension. The masts are still flexible in the fore and aft direction and therefore prone to bowing. The problem is the lack of main topmast backstays, left off pending rigging of the mainsail and main topsail. The two lines passing through the blocks at the end of the bowsprit are attached to the tacks of the jib and flying jib. These pass over the rubbing strips on the bow and are anchored on to the cleats on the bowsprit foot. By this stage I have a real rats nest of tails on the deck ready for a good tidy up. But at least the flying jib is aloft and flying nicely. I have not however attached the flying jib sheets as yet. They land on the deck well aft and I don't want them to get in the way of rigging the mainsail.
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Saw blades for Byrnes saw
KeithAug replied to mikeaidanh's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Kevin I should have added that I try to preserve my Byrnes TCT blade by doing roughing operations with this TCT blade:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B018RSRT82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Don't be fooled by the claimed thickness as this is the thickness of the disc. The Kerf is 1/10". That said it cuts cleanly if you don't mind wasting a bit more wood. The bore is 20mm so you still need a spacer. -
Saw blades for Byrnes saw
KeithAug replied to mikeaidanh's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Kevin I agree with Ed re the use of carbide blades - I only use them for cutting larger stock (3/8 inch and above hardwood). Jim has reducers available and the implication is he will make the size you want for $5. Might be worth adding it to your order. Alternatively I can make one and send it to you. -
Lovely job Mark. I get the impression that much of your brass work is hand made without the use of machine tools. Am I correct? Do you have machine tools Lathe / Mill etc?
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